Bendpak lift install question
- Thread starter gte
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pattenp
Well-known member
It's a strength issue with the concrete with the anchors being too close to an edge or joint. All 2 post lifts specify this.
James E
Well-known member
It's for a couple reasons, IMO.
First is like pattenp said, slab is more prone to break near the edge. Bear in mind that an interior framed wall will not necessarily be on the edge of the slab, so that's probably perfectly fine. On the other hand, the outside walls of most garages are different. Around here, builders pour a footing and build the block/brick wall, then pour a floating slab inside it so it is not tied into the footing or wall.
Mounting a two post close to the edge of an outside wall means you are at the edge of the slab (your construction methods may be different, so check), which can increase the risk of cracking the slab. Mounting a post close to an inside framed wall, which just sits on top of a slab is usually not a problem.
The second reason is that if you can't get between the post and the wall, that's a PITA. If the car is up in the air and too high to get over and too low to get under, that's an issue. Of course, if that's all the room you have, then it's moot.
If you have a floating slab, I would check with BandPak to see what they recommend for tight installations like yours. It may involve some cutting and re-pouring but it may be worth it.
First is like pattenp said, slab is more prone to break near the edge. Bear in mind that an interior framed wall will not necessarily be on the edge of the slab, so that's probably perfectly fine. On the other hand, the outside walls of most garages are different. Around here, builders pour a footing and build the block/brick wall, then pour a floating slab inside it so it is not tied into the footing or wall.
Mounting a two post close to the edge of an outside wall means you are at the edge of the slab (your construction methods may be different, so check), which can increase the risk of cracking the slab. Mounting a post close to an inside framed wall, which just sits on top of a slab is usually not a problem.
The second reason is that if you can't get between the post and the wall, that's a PITA. If the car is up in the air and too high to get over and too low to get under, that's an issue. Of course, if that's all the room you have, then it's moot.
If you have a floating slab, I would check with BandPak to see what they recommend for tight installations like yours. It may involve some cutting and re-pouring but it may be worth it.
pattenp
Well-known member
wawa1
Well-known member
my xpr15c Is going to be 4 feet from the wall so I can get around the post as I am working on the vehicles. the posts are also going to be sitting on a foot of concrete with miles of rebar in it.
Thanks everyone for your replies.
I was thinking that I'd have plenty of room with the arms extended and the vehicle centered, but you make a good point here G-Ram, maybe I wouldn't have as much much room as I envisioned. I want to put 2 lifts in this particular room of my garage and the room is only 25' wide, so I may have to try to make sure the narrow config will work. Since the narrow config is 11' wide, maybe I can stagger the center posts, which buys me 21" of overlap and then I could have almost 2' in between the outer post of each lift and the wall.
The first lift comes in today, so I'll have to lay everything out and make sure I can get the second lift in before I permanently mount it. Here is what I think my best option is. I have to cheat 6" from the minimum front and rear room, so I hope that isn't an issue. To anyone that has used this, do you see this as a huge problem?
I was thinking that I'd have plenty of room with the arms extended and the vehicle centered, but you make a good point here G-Ram, maybe I wouldn't have as much much room as I envisioned. I want to put 2 lifts in this particular room of my garage and the room is only 25' wide, so I may have to try to make sure the narrow config will work. Since the narrow config is 11' wide, maybe I can stagger the center posts, which buys me 21" of overlap and then I could have almost 2' in between the outer post of each lift and the wall.
The first lift comes in today, so I'll have to lay everything out and make sure I can get the second lift in before I permanently mount it. Here is what I think my best option is. I have to cheat 6" from the minimum front and rear room, so I hope that isn't an issue. To anyone that has used this, do you see this as a huge problem?
samert111
Well-known member
You will have plenty of room. My lift is only 6" away from the wall and I've pulled axles out of a 3/4 ton pickup no problem. Yes I would prefer to have more room but you make do with what room you have.
Thanks everyone for your replies.
I was thinking that I'd have plenty of room with the arms extended and the vehicle centered, but you make a good point here G-Ram, maybe I wouldn't have as much much room as I envisioned. I want to put 2 lifts in this particular room of my garage and the room is only 25' wide, so I may have to try to make sure the narrow config will work. Since the narrow config is 11' wide, maybe I can stagger the center posts, which buys me 21" of overlap and then I could have almost 2' in between the outer post of each lift and the wall.
The first lift comes in today, so I'll have to lay everything out and make sure I can get the second lift in before I permanently mount it. Here is what I think my best option is. I have to cheat 6" from the minimum front and rear room, so I hope that isn't an issue. To anyone that has used this, do you see this as a huge problem?
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pattenp
Well-known member
Please forgive me if you know this, but your lift is asymmetric. Are you leaving enough room to the rear of the lifts? The vehicles won't be loaded centered on the lift.
Got two lifts in my garage as well. Overlapped the center posts as the diagram shows. Mine's tight enough that on the lift farthest from the door, the other lift post keeps the arms from opening all the way up. A little tight, but can still get cars in and out.
Mine is too close to the edge of the concrete but the slab is surrounded by a footing wall so the slab can't go anywhere. I also designed the roof rafters oversize and tied the lifts into the ceiling structure. The top of the lifts can't go anywhere so it should minimize any stress on the concrete.
Very pleased with two lifts, even if its a little tight. I have measured and would just be able to pull an axle on any vehicle I own or could foresee owning.
My garage is 22 foot wide,inside wall to inside wall. Feels so much bigger than the 20 foot one it replaced. 25 wide and you should be fine.
Mine is too close to the edge of the concrete but the slab is surrounded by a footing wall so the slab can't go anywhere. I also designed the roof rafters oversize and tied the lifts into the ceiling structure. The top of the lifts can't go anywhere so it should minimize any stress on the concrete.
Very pleased with two lifts, even if its a little tight. I have measured and would just be able to pull an axle on any vehicle I own or could foresee owning.
My garage is 22 foot wide,inside wall to inside wall. Feels so much bigger than the 20 foot one it replaced. 25 wide and you should be fine.
I used my car as an example in the picture, it's 15 feet long. I put 6 feet up front and 9 in the back from the center line of the lift posts, as a guestimate.
Thank you, you bring up something I had not thought of.
From your experience, how far should I overlap the center posts, without having the arms interfere with each other or the other posts? My asymmetrical posts are 21" wide. If you were to redo it, would you only overlap 12" of that 21" or?
From your experience, how far should I overlap the center posts, without having the arms interfere with each other or the other posts? My asymmetrical posts are 21" wide. If you were to redo it, would you only overlap 12" of that 21" or?