Best way to protect trailer wiring?

[Exceller8]

I'm looking for ideas on how to best protect the trailer wiring on my utility trailer. I hooked everything up today on a new truck and the everything was as it should have been and working properly when I stopped to get gas I noticed the connection had came loose. I hooked it back up after filling up and at my next stop the connection came undone again only this time it had dragged and ruined to connector wires. I finally figure out (duh ) that the connection was too short.

I rewired everything this evening and I was thinking of buying some plastic tubing and cutting it with a razor blade and putting it over the wires to protect them from future road rash. Any other ideas?

 

[ForceFed70]

With a good connector and the proper length wire, you shouldn't need to protect against road rash.

To be honest, there isn't anything you can do that will save a dragged wire/connector. Best I can think of is a weak spring that would keep it off the pavement should the connection come apart.

 

[Zelatore]

Fwiw, I always put a padlock on my coupler when towing (and when storing for that matter) and the locks I use are extended shank. I run the trailer wire through the U of the lock so as to help keep it from dragging should it be disconnected. Granted, I've never had one come apart and wouldn't expect you to have a repeat once you've got the wires to the correct length.

 

[Exceller8]

With a good connector and the proper length wire, you shouldn't need to protect against road rash.

To be honest, there isn't anything you can do that will save a dragged wire/connector. Best I can think of is a weak spring that would keep it off the pavement should the connection come apart.

I know what you're saying, but I've had this trailer for 13 years and there are times when I run into this type of problem. I had some wire protector that you use for computer type cables and that didn't hold up.

I might be barking up the wrong tree here. I've got to figure out a way to keep the connector wires long enough yet not drag on the ground.

 

[Sureshot]

Fwiw, I always put a padlock on my coupler when towing (and when storing for that matter) and the locks I use are extended shank. I run the trailer wire through the U of the lock so as to help keep it from dragging should it be disconnected. Granted, I've never had one come apart and wouldn't expect you to have a repeat once you've got the wires to the correct length.

http://www.harborfreight.com/square-bail-pto-lock-pin-96281.html

I like these if you aren't into a lock.

 

[p_mori7]

I've tie-wrapped the harness plug to the tongue of my trailer, and use a male / female extension between the pickup & the trailer. When we go moose hunting, I had a branch pop up between the truck and trailer once and it broke the harness...so now the extension would get pulled out rather than damaging the harness. The entire trailer harness is covered with split ribbed plastic loom.

 

[PCO6]

I used PVC electrical conduit and junction boxes to route my wiring harness under the chassis from the tongue to the tail lights. Everything is sealed and waterproofed. From the tongue to the hitch I used about 30" of 1/2" heater hose. When not in use the flexible hose covered portion of the harness is held out of the way, high and dry, to the trailer frame by a magnet with a nylon starp on it.

 

[rv245]

http://www.harborfreight.com/square-bail-pto-lock-pin-96281.html

I like these if you aren't into a lock.

I use these to for when I'm pulling my trailer. Use them for the hitch and also all the door latches. They are nice to use to keep the locks from freezing up during the winter. When I stop somewhere or park it, I switch over to padlocks.

 

[IHI]

Fwiw, I always put a padlock on my coupler when towing (and when storing for that matter) and the locks I use are extended shank. I run the trailer wire through the U of the lock so as to help keep it from dragging should it be disconnected. Granted, I've never had one come apart and wouldn't expect you to have a repeat once you've got the wires to the correct length.

All my heavy trucks have 6 pin or 7 blade connections that lock the trailer plug into place, towed all over the midwest and never had one fall out...so i have to assume he's using a 4 flat on his utility trailer....first suggestion, just change it over to a 6 pin or a 7 blade and never worry again.

I also do the same thing you do with my jon boat, I just have a pin with the U shapped dealeo that folds over, and I too run that 4 flat wire through that loop of the tounge lock just in case the connection comes apart...but also because I have a long lead on the trailer side so i can pull it behind anything, as trailer connections on the trucks all vary so I made it long for worse case scenario.

These are about the only 2 simple solutions I can think of.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have actually resorted to rubber bands or string to keep trailer connections together.

Those 7 pin to 4 pin converters aren't cheap, so when I use mine it get a safety strap !

 

[Ryf]

if its a flat 4, fix the busted end and buy a 4ft extension to put on the end as a sacrificial piece, on the 4 flat trailers I've owned the ends get buggared eventually, especially if you loan it out, making it a quick stop at any auto parts store will keep this from bothering you much. use a 4 foot, and velcro it in a coil to fit your rig, if things change you have some play room.

if your running a 7 type and need a converter, dont! they make a 4 flat/7 wire dual plug jack. love it, I believe they make one that basically plugs into the current 4 wire outlet (which needs to be relocated up over the bumper etc) my 7 wire plug was messed up in a bump by a small car, and I replaced it with the 4 way to 7 & 4 version for under $30 and its been great. I just clipped the wires off my 7way and wired it with this permanent solution.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/37185.html

 

[Motofixxer]

Just a simple loop of 12gauge wire looped around your drawbar etc. But for a more permanent solution I also recommend switching to the 7 way rv style plug.

 

[Exceller8]

I added some reenforced plastic tubing with some zip ties and it worked like a charm.

 

[ishiboo]

The cap of the 7-pin RV receptacle holds the connector into place so it cannot fall out, though I have NEVER seen a 4-pin fall out that was in anywhere near decent condition.

I would put a 7-pin receptacle on the vehicle, and put a Jetconnex on the trailer. It's easy to install, they make them with a 7-pin vehicle end and 4-pin trailer end. The trailer end has two holes to bolt it to the trailer, and you can just plug the trailer in. A 5-wire flat plugs into a 4-wire flat trailer end, BTW. Use dielectric grease on your connections.

 

[starquestMM]

I used automotive coolant hose instead of the plastic wire loom. Slit it with a knife and zip tie every ~18". Ought to take whatever the road throws at it.

 

[48Classic]

I just wire tied the wires to one of my safety chains. One it always forces me to hookup my safety chains and two it is always proper distance. Then a have a loop from where the safety chain hooks up to the receiver to the connection point...

 

[G_P]

I run my flat 4 through the shackle of the lock on the coupler. Same as Zelatore.

 

[spotco2]

We always use fuel line to run the wires through to protect it from chafing on the frame and use conduit clamps riveted to the frame to hold the fuel line in place.

Something like these clamps

 

[Falcon67]

Upgrade the truck and trailer to 7 pin RV connectors - I won't use anything else on my trailers and never have a problem.

 

[aka Larry]

I have a velcro strap that attaches the loose wire to the safety chains on my trailer.

 

[VisualFX]

I used PVC electrical conduit and junction boxes to route my wiring harness under the chassis from the tongue to the tail lights. Everything is sealed and waterproofed. From the tongue to the hitch I used about 30" of 1/2" heater hose. When not in use the flexible hose covered portion of the harness is held out of the way, high and dry, to the trailer frame by a magnet with a nylon starp on it.

Do you have links to the product's you've used? I am redoing a 4x8 utility trailer that rotted out and don't want to contend with shoddy wiring in the future. Thanks in advance.

-Brian

 

[theoldwizard1]

2 methods

Wrap with harness tape. Harness tape is NOT electrical tape, Harness tape has NO adhesive (so finishing require friction tape or top quality electrical tape like 3M 88).

Use convoluted plastic tubing (eBay). Quicker to install. Still requires some type of adhesive backed tape for finishing and splices.


How A Wiring Harness is Taped.

 

[PCO6]

Do you have links to the product's you've used? I am redoing a 4x8 utility trailer that rotted out and don't want to contend with shoddy wiring in the future. Thanks in advance.

-Brian

VisualFX - I bought the PVC electrical conduit, junction boxes and joint sealer at Home Depot. They're standard house construction materials and they're inexpensive. If you want to bend or curve it to suit your trailer a heat gun works well. Likewise the heater hose is standard automotive material - cheap and plentiful.

The magnetic harness strap I provided a picture of is from Princess Auto (about $5) and you might be able to get one at Harbor Freight or a similar place if you're in the U.S. It still works but it has rusted badly.

 

[sberry]

Rolled black plastic tube. I got a whole system for this. Common extension cord works in a lot of places. Variations of the same theme.

 

[VisualFX]

VisualFX - I bought the PVC electrical conduit, junction boxes and joint sealer at Home Depot. They're standard house construction materials and they're inexpensive. If you want to bend or curve it to suit your trailer a heat gun works well. Likewise the heater hose is standard automotive material - cheap and plentiful.

The magnetic harness strap I provided a picture of is from Princess Auto (about $5) and you might be able to get one at Harbor Freight or a similar place if you're in the U.S. It still works but it has rusted badly.

Thanks I appreciate it. Must be having computer issues, the links that were once clickable became unclickable. But now they show up again. I was checking around for that magnetic harness and it seems to be discontinued. Just researching some ways to do this. Thanks again!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Common extension cord works in a lot of places.

Good choice, but the bared wire will corrode from moisture. I prefer "marine" (pre-tinned) wire for automotive use.

 

[sberry]

That's nice to source or spec marine grade but this is stuff can be found anywhere, on ones own shelf and when connectors are oriented up and we shooth them and the whole box with Lig wrench or similar, same for screws and we never get as problem. On occasion crudely caulk top seams or holes to boxes and I got trailer lights work from 20 yrs and the gang that heat shrink and uses the beat of everything always got a problem. I like a box over light studs, even in grime and constant steam, or more correctly pressure wash it works.

 

[6768rogues]

I have had so many trailer wiring problems because in our climate the wires get ice covering them from road spray and then the ice breaks loose from the trailer and rips the wires off. Salt used on the roads causes problems with grounds. On one trailer, I used 1/2" plastic tubing (found a coil of orange stuff in the road, it fell off a gas utility truck) and ran the wires through it. I also ran a ground wire to each light. The lights on the trailer have worked every time I used it for over 10 years since I rewired it.

 

[VisualFX]

I have had so many trailer wiring problems because in our climate the wires get ice covering them from road spray and then the ice breaks loose from the trailer and rips the wires off. Salt used on the roads causes problems with grounds. On one trailer, I used 1/2" plastic tubing (found a coil of orange stuff in the road, it fell off a gas utility truck) and ran the wires through it. I also ran a ground wire to each light. The lights on the trailer have worked every time I used it for over 10 years since I rewired it.

That's the problem I'm trying to avoid (again). This trailer is almost 30 years old. Has been rewired twice to the point of being "functional". I convinced my parents to let me do it like it should have been done in the first place this time. This thing should outlast me

 

[404]

I used PVC electrical conduit and junction boxes to route my wiring harness under the chassis from the tongue to the tail lights. Everything is sealed and waterproofed. From the tongue to the hitch I used about 30" of 1/2" heater hose. When not in use the flexible hose covered portion of the harness is held out of the way, high and dry, to the trailer frame by a magnet with a nylon starp on it.

Very classy and clever. Well done.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

A 6 or 7 way connector for a simple utility trailer is crazy. Flat 4 way "boat" connectors will stay together without any problems, you just gotta make sure they are long enough, as the OP discovered, so when you turn, they stay connected. If the OP wants to protect the wires and make it somewhat nicer looking, go to the auto parts place and look for some of that split black plastic corrugated harness protector tubing in the bags on the small parts racks.

The back to back velcro straps to temporarily attach the wiring to the safety chains or other tongue or hitch components is a good idea, again, just make sure it can make sharp turns without pulling on the harness or chains.

If the op is interested in protecting the wires on the underside of the trailer frame, use some nylon tubing, such as small air brake tubing, attached with clamps to the frame and run the wires thru that.

Many of the suggestions in this thread are absurd for what the OP wants or needs to do.

Charles

 

[TheModelAGuy]

I've had success with protecting the wire in pvc or emt conduit. Use inexpensive multi conductor wire. Connections boxed and sealed if needed i.e. boat trailer. High corrosion environment you can use nolox or similar on the grounds.

 

[upndown]

I just used small PVC pipe when I rewired my used HF trailer.elements are not an issue here, bit the Little rat bastards the nibble off insulation are.

 

[LifeLongWNYer]

How about running the wire through auto heater hose, as already suggested, but put a hose clamp in the middle of it and use that to hold one end of a screen door spring. Fasten the other end to the trailer, somehow, depending on the configuration of your trailer.

After reading further, I need to add that this is for the flexible cord running between the vehicles.

JBP


.

 

[toplessHO]

I use EMT to protect wiring from damage after one work trailer had wiring snatched out 2x.
I bent it where needed and for clearance lights and electric brakes I just drilled a hole
in the EMT and used a short piece of small fuel line as a bushing/grommet to prevent chafing.

 

[BigSteve63]

I went to a trailer repair shop (commercial trailers) and bought heavy jacketed wire. Supported with the rubber lined clamps noted above. I also used a connector box under the tongue to make replacing the "whip" end easier if the connection is damaged. I like the idea of the magnetic strap to hold the wire!

Most of my damage occurs when folks borrow the trailer - I highly recommend investing in some of the steel tail light protectors if people use your trailer who are unaccustomed to backing.