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Is my Drywall repairable?

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EAC

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Wildwood, MO
Sorry if this is in the wrong spot or wrong forum. Figured there are a bunch of smart folks here, so thought you could maybe help.

We had a little soft spot in our drywall next to our shower where the shower glass leaked a little over time. I scraped away the soft spot and found this. It's hard...

Here is the deal, we're going to do a complete bathroom remodel next year, which includes tearing out the effected wall.

Is there a temporary fix until next year?
 

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E

EAC

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Wildwood, MO
Toomanytools? said:
Yes it's fixable, first fix the leak, then use either fast setting drywall mud or Johnon's hard as a rock fix.
Click to expand...

Right, I extracted all the old **** and gonna lay more **** down tonight. That was the only issue.

Should I remove more of the drywall or is that enough?
 
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BlindViper

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York, PA
EAC said:
Right, I extracted all the old **** and gonna lay more **** down tonight. That was the only issue.

Should I remove more of the drywall or is that enough?
Click to expand...

I really don't care but its caulk...might look funny if you asked which kinda **** you need :)
 
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Big-Foot

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If I was going to tear it all out soon, I would just mud it in, sand, prime with oil based primer, then a coat of semi-gloss paint. Then caulk it and clean things up if they get wet..
 
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Toomanytools?

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Washington
EAC said:
Right, I extracted all the old **** and gonna lay more **** down tonight. That was the only issue.

Should I remove more of the drywall or is that enough?
Click to expand...

Wow might have to delete my post I want nothing to do with your **** issues.:headscrat
 
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dirttracker18

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Slate River, ON
I would cut that section out and put a new piece in, tape mud and paint and it will last.

that will also give you a chance to see what is happening inside for the upcoming job.

Mudding over that mess might not last the year you need.

It will be less work to put up a piece then to try and mud that area and make it look flat.

JMO
 
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CNGsaves

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Zeke said:
Yes, cut it out to get rid of the mildew. Don't touch it with your ****.
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. . . . AND . . . don't decide to then go spray on pickup truck bedliner, get your hands all covered with bedliner material . . . and then, have to take a whizz !! :D
 
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Twiggss

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middle
EAC said:
Right, I extracted all the old **** and gonna lay more **** down tonight. That was the only issue.

Should I remove more of the drywall or is that enough?
Click to expand...

This just needs to be quoted one more time.
 
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Kels

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Silverdale WA State
My day was just so so, I'm at work and just about ruined my keyboard reading this thread! lmao :D

Make sure the leak is fixed so that you know your problem isn't way bigger next year.
 
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Tim The Tool Man

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Okay everybody needs to quit playing with their **** guns and help this man. First remove hand from ****. Next put it away. (Please!)

Okay now it looks like you have and old brown coat/skim coat wall and not drywall. So I wouldn't take anymore of it out as long as it is now dry and no longer crumbly. I would mix up a small batch of hot mud (powdered) and fill the void. Then sand it, prime it and paint it (latex is fine) then **** the joint where it meets the shower door...
 
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E

EAC

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Wildwood, MO
Tim The Tool Man said:
Okay everybody needs to quit playing with their **** guns and help this man. First remove hand from ****. Next put it away. (Please!)

Okay now it looks like you have and old brown coat/skim coat wall and not drywall. So I wouldn't take anymore of it out as long as it is now dry and no longer crumbly. I would mix up a small batch of hot mud (powdered) and fill the void. Then sand it, prime it and paint it (latex is fine) then **** the joint where it meets the shower door...
Click to expand...

HAHAHA!

So, the brown color isn't water related?
 
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Tim The Tool Man

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"Brown Coat" is what the base layer of a plaster job is called and the grey looks like base coat plaster (at least on my computer screen) but I cannot enlarge the picture to get a better look. The red-ish brown more toward the corner looks like rust from the mesh corner bead. You'll have a very large mess if you try to rip that section out. Use a Killz primer over it. Again if this area is dry...
 
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wssix99

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Chicago, IL
I don't know what the big deal is. Just stick a **** in the hole

images


and then mud right over it.
 
M

my68spit

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Jun 4, 2013
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Illinois
I come in here expecting professional advice on drywall repair and all I am left with is a nasty looking brown hole with **** in it. WHAT IS THIS FORUM COMING TO??!?!?!??!!! :lol_hitti
 
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srmofo

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SW ohio
EAC said:
Right, I extracted all the old **** and gonna lay more **** down tonight. That was the only issue.

Should I remove more of the drywall or is that enough?
Click to expand...

Quoted for posterity....sitting here LMAO off at all the other posts
 
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DIC

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If you extracted too much **** You will may be laying **** all night :D
 
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wssix99

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KennyK said:
You guys certainly milked that one for everything it was worth :thumbup:

And i'm still wiping the tears from my eyes from laughing so hard
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Better tears than **** residue. We've forgotten all about safety and how important it is to wear safety goggles when messing with **** in these types of situations.
 
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CNGsaves

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Cobra6

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dirttracker18 said:
I would cut that section out and put a new piece in, tape mud and paint and it will last.

that will also give you a chance to see what is happening inside for the upcoming job.

Mudding over that mess might not last the year you need.

It will be less work to put up a piece then to try and mud that area and make it look flat.

JMO
Click to expand...

/\
|
This -
and I am trying to ignore the other posts, but they are funny :lol_hitti
 
P

pablo21

Member
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Oct 30, 2011
Messages
9
Cut out all the damp stuff, make sure all the surrounding areas, including behind the drywall are dry, then put in a new section of drywall.

No point in mucking about, just get all the damp stuff out or you'll end up in the same position somewhere down the line.
 
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