Underground air line?

[softailgarage]

I know it's a bonehead idea, but here's my problem. I've got a workbench set up in the backyard, with a blast cabinet. I use the bench for yard projects, etc. and keeping the sandblaster outside cuts down on the mess. Using a hose from the compressor to the back is not do able, the amount of moisture coming out is insane. I cant run a line along the roof due to a high peak, so I was thinking running 1'' black pipe along the base or possibly a shallow trench. Doing this would not leave room for risers, sooo, once again....bonehead idea, I know. It's 56ft. from a 60 gallon compressor to the cabinet, anybody have any idea's

 

[Dustball]

Look into using PEX.

 

[Sureshot]

I used the air line from semi trucks.

 

[CNGsaves]

No you're idea of running black pipe steel is a GOOD one . . . . others on GJ have done the same. Do a search but I think Lutz had an underground line between buildings and he was having a leak in an elbow. He ended up getting something special from McMaster-Carr that would handle the expansion as he had a hard turn into concrete building.

Make sure you slope it downhilll away from the compressor so that any water will head to drain valve at the end of the line. Install a moisture trap at your ending drop that connects to blast cabinet.

If you use contractor-length black pipe steel that is 21 ft per stick, that 56 feet won't take long to cover. Good luck. Post up pics of finished airline.

 

[M17715]

Why don't you just enclose the sandblaster? Then it wouldn't be so messy.

 

[ddawg16]

I think you should use PVC.....

 

[softailgarage]

Look into using PEX.

PEX is not rated for air and I believe UV rays will break it down. Lengths of air hose can be used to connect compressor to air-operated equipment, but only on a temporary basis. When using long lengths of air hose, moisture remains in a vapor form and will pass through most water separators. The ideal setup is to use metal piping, (1/2" ID up to 75ft., 3/4" ID over 75ft.), By using metal piping of proper size, not only does the piping serve as an "air reservoir", it also enables the moisture-laden air to cool so that the water separators can do their job, metal piping will eliminate most problems of moisture and will provide sufficient air volume to the blast cabinet.

No you're idea of running black pipe steel is a GOOD one . . . . others on GJ have done the same. Do a search but I think Lutz had an underground line between buildings and he was having a leak in an elbow. He ended up getting something special from McMaster-Carr that would handle the expansion as he had a hard turn into concrete building.

Make sure you slope it downhilll away from the compressor so that any water will head to drain valve at the end of the line. Install a moisture trap at your ending drop that connects to blast cabinet.

If you use contractor-length black pipe steel that is 21 ft per stick, that 56 feet won't take long to cover. Good luck. Post up pics of finished airline.

Ah, so it is feasible. I don't feel so much like a nard now I'll do some research on Lutz's plan and check out McMaster-Carr (one of my favorite vendors). I'll get back to ya guy's, thank you.

 

[mds5951]

How would you mount a water trap/drain at the end of the run? Seems like it would be underground? Wouldn't the pipe eventually fill with water? Or is it assumed it would be condensed enought the air would "push" it up the pipe and through a trap? It still seems like some amount of moisture would sit in the pipe tho? (Just curious and thinking outloud)

 

[markf4e]

What about this RapidAir piping for burying? It is HDPE/Aluminum, and is rated for direct bury.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484021_200484021
http://rapidairproducts.com/choose.asp

 

[Clik]

I had to get water accross a dirt road right-of-way to water animals. I had to do it clandestinely because It was a public road. I didn't want to spend alot because I might have to pull it out if anyone objected. I used plain old garden hose and was surprised that it lasted over ten years. It may have lasted longer but it was ripped out when grading the road. So, I wouldn't be affraid to bury plain ol' rubber air hose.

 

[Clik]

Condensate Drain Underground: People may not realize it but fire hydrants drain into the ground at their base each time they are turned on or off. This is to keep the housing from freezing. A condensate drain valve can be located underground too. Just get a long handled valve wrench at a plumbing supply store.

 

[larry_g]

How would you mount a water trap/drain at the end of the run? Seems like it would be underground? Wouldn't the pipe eventually fill with water? Or is it assumed it would be condensed enought the air would "push" it up the pipe and through a trap? It still seems like some amount of moisture would sit in the pipe tho? (Just curious and thinking outloud)

As said above run the line past the riser and then I would turn the line down for about 6". Then turn the line up again to a ball valve that would be used to blow out the line.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Erampu]

Move the compressor to the blaster? Alternatively, a second small compressor located near the blast cabinet?

 

[Trey T]

Your use of PVC for air is completely different scenario than problem reported. For you, you wouldn't see the problem because you have earth pressure loaded onto the pipe surface, holding the pipe in place ridgid to help from being weakened.

I know you guys won't like this;
I've had 100' of 3/4" pvc buried for 10 years with no problem. I have some pvc waterline that been buried maybe 20 years by the PO and it has 125psi on it 24/7.
....

 

[joe_padavano]

Move the compressor to the blaster? Alternatively, a second small compressor located near the blast cabinet?

You ever try running a blast cabinet with a "small" compressor?

 

[Doug1]

I'm also considering PVC for a 120' underground run. It it were to let loose, the dirt would absorb any projectiles. I'd think a foot down ought to be fine. I'd hook it to iron before it came up out of the ground though.

 

[joe_padavano]

By the way, I've got the same problem. I have a large 15 HP compressor that I need to provide air to multiple buildings. For the drain valve you can get a plastic underground "vault" box for electrical and plumbing. These are available in a wide variety of sizes and depths.

The other option is to simply run an underground ball valve with a riser to allow access. I did this on a water line to an outbuilding so that I could completely drain the building in the winter. I got some 4" PVC drain pipe, notched the bottom to fit over the valve, and buried it so the top was accessible from the surface. A screw-on cleanout cap can be removed and a normal valve key used to turn the valve. Put gravel around the bottom to allow the water to drain.

 

[LutzTD]

mines working OK, as someone mentioned earlier, some poor planning on my part caused a thermal expansion issue that was torquing a joint. I suppose if done right the thermal expansion should twist the joint not try to bend it open. what I did to fix mine was to add a piece of hydraulic hose at the end of the long run so that it could expand as it may and the hose would take up the misalignment. worked fine for me. I also put a trap at the end and sloped it down hill from the source. I have a large piece of pipe to collect water and a timed purge to shoot it out the side of the building.

BTW, its very nice to have a remote site for the compressor noise. not that the blasting wont be noisy, but both would be intolerable.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Luckily my compressor is in the back corner of the garage. In my airlines I have a quick connect drop in the back room next to the compressor.

When I started building the house garage, I drilled a hole through the back wall on the garage to run an air hose (for framing and roof nailer).Then I simply covered the hole with an outdoor outlet cover with a flip up lid. The cover has one large opening for the newer style outlets instead of the two holed outlet.

I can simply lift the cover and stick the air hose through the hole into the garage. I walk inside and connect it to the quick connect. Now that I have added the shed to the back corner of the garage, the covered hole in in there.

You can see the outlet cover in the back corner.

 

[stonesfan68]

I'd recommend running the steel pipe or rubber hose inside of a larger PVC pipe. That will keep the steel or galvanized pipe and/or rubber hose away from the dirt, water, bugs, etc. in the ground.

Please don't use PVC for compressed air, EVER. I don't care how lucky you've been for the last 30+ years, it is just not safe and the PVC will burst like a grenade when it lets go.

 

[rwhite692]

I have used schedule 80 PVC line (3/4") for underground runs. Did not like the idea of buying any metallic pipe because of corrosion, etc.

For the underground run I have it regulated so that run never sees more than 100PSI.

All of my above-ground air lines are black iron pipe.

Some folks have used copper line run inside of PVC (electrical conduit) to protect from corrosion.

 

[Jack Olsen]

When I did my deck, I ran 3/4" RapidAir underneath it. It's not cheap (although neither is pipe, these days) -- but I've liked it so far.

 

[Notch1988]

I'm running 1.5" electrical conduit between my shop and garage and then running a regular rubber air hose through it. If it ever freezes, bursts, etc I pull it out and pull a new one in behind it.

 

[shannonw]

talk about timing, i logged on to search the same thing and this was on the 1st page!

I need to go about 100 feet outside to dock. Right now i unwind a reel but it's a pita for something i'm going to do for only 15 min.

I was considering running hose through pvc sleeve underground and wanted to see the general consensus.

What about though direct burial of just a plain ol pvc air hose? i'm in s. florida no freezing/frost really...just sandy soil. I wonder if it would break down..

 

[quad shop]

The proper way would be to use black iron or copper wrapped with pipe tape to protect against corrosion