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Embarassing..don't know what I bought...

luvmyglockfou

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Prescott, AZ
So the short story is I was on Ebay, searching for air filters. I saw this unit about to end and I placed a bid for $50 on a whim. I won the auction, but the unit was from a private individual and all the auction said was "air filter". I have no idea what this thing is. I was hoping one of these bowls was not an oiler, and upon receiving it I may have been right. It's brand new, never used.

The numbers on it are "F64H-NNN-QD0" on the right manifold assembly, and "B64G-NNK-QD1-RMN". The numbers on the filters are "4338-01" and "4344-02". What do I have here and was $50 a good buy? I feel like an idiot not even knowing what this thing is...Also, there is a regulator, but not gauge. Is there a spot to install one?
f6418183-bb88-4245-b186-673fe3d573b5_zpsda684d5c.jpg

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luvmyglockfou

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Prescott, AZ
Odd...using the charts I cannot find out exactly what model/options I have. Some of the options match up with the tables, and some of them don't. Still not sure what I have here, although it looks for sure like two filters, one of which (the 4344-02) is an oil-removing filter. The other is only listed as "filter, 5 micron". I see that I can install a gauge in the middle of the unit, although I wonder if I can just go to the store or do I have to spend $50 on the Norgren gauge. That's what I spent on the whole unit..

Edit: What I REALLY need is a filter that will remove water...I can't find anywhere that it says that there is a water separator in this thing..
 

NissanTechWill

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Raleigh, NC
So the short story is I was on Ebay, searching for air filters. I saw this unit about to end and I placed a bid for $50 on a whim. I won the auction, but the unit was from a private individual and all the auction said was "air filter". I have no idea what this thing is. I was hoping one of these bowls was not an oiler, and upon receiving it I may have been right. It's brand new, never used.

Why don't you want an oiler with your air/water separator?

-Will
 

Burgerkong

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Because I oil the tools that I use directly. Most of the work that I do is sandblasting and auto painting...last thing I need is oil in my paint jobs!

I am sure someone will say this, but all you have to do is take the combo unit apart and separate the oiler. It is all modular, and it you are running hard lines to the filter/regulator (black iron pipe, copper, etc), you don't really need the mounting bracket, just fasten the pipes to the wall or a board and you're GTG.
 
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luvmyglockfou

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Prescott, AZ
I am sure someone will say this, but all you have to do is take the combo unit apart and separate the oiler. It is all modular, and it you are running hard lines to the filter/regulator (black iron pipe, copper, etc), you don't really need the mounting bracket, just fasten the pipes to the wall or a board and you're GTG.

I don't believe it has an oiler. It's got a filter listed as a coalescing (spelling) filter and a .5 micron filter. I'll be hard-lining into this, but I'll be using an air hose (quick disconnect) from the outlet because a 25' hose will reach to any part of my shop. That is a decision that I am not for sure on...I can't find any benefits to running copper all around a 20x25 2-car garage when a flexible air hose reaches everywhere and is WAY cheaper..
 

softailgarage

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Apr 20, 2011
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Because I oil the tools that I use directly. Most of the work that I do is sandblasting and auto painting...last thing I need is oil in my paint jobs!

I don't believe it has an oiler. It's got a filter listed as a coalescing (spelling) filter and a .5 micron filter. I'll be hard-lining into this, but I'll be using an air hose (quick disconnect) from the outlet because a 25' hose will reach to any part of my shop. That is a decision that I am not for sure on...I can't find any benefits to running copper all around a 20x25 2-car garage when a flexible air hose reaches everywhere and is WAY cheaper..

Running a hard line, especially with black pipe will cut down on the condensation that builds up in hose lines. I would imagine you dont want water in the paint either.
 

nine4gmc

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There is this stuff in the plumbing section. Its a liquid pipe thread sealer. 100,000x better than the tape.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Fixed it for ya!

and btw, I use permatex thread sealant with great results.
 
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Frickr

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Jul 13, 2013
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Running a hard line, especially with black pipe will cut down on the condensation that builds up in hose lines. I would imagine you dont want water in the paint either.

the coalescing filter will remove most of the water from the system, with these filters too you will need to drain them frequently while in use if its not already equiped with a automatic drain valve. if it is make sure you have it venting into a container that can handle a blast of air/water/oil or run a small line outside. on average useage too change both filters annually atleast semiannually is better.

by having dryer, cleaner air going to your powertools will increase the life of them, just be sure to lubricate them properly.
 

Burgerkong

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I don't believe it has an oiler. It's got a filter listed as a coalescing (spelling) filter and a .5 micron filter. I'll be hard-lining into this, but I'll be using an air hose (quick disconnect) from the outlet because a 25' hose will reach to any part of my shop. That is a decision that I am not for sure on...I can't find any benefits to running copper all around a 20x25 2-car garage when a flexible air hose reaches everywhere and is WAY cheaper..

My bad, I was just going off of what others have said. With that out of the way, are they both coalescing? Both filters have a manual drain. I am going to run copper as it is easier to work with. A 12' section of medium wall type L 3/4" cooper piping runs around $46 plus tax here. I am going to run pipe 3/4 the length of my garage on either side (I have a single car garage), it's going to run me around $150 including the necessary couplings, elbows and fittings, as well as accounting for a cooling loop.

I am going to also pick up a hose reel and mount it near my garage door to extend the reach of my air lines just in case.
 
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luvmyglockfou

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Prescott, AZ
My bad, I was just going off of what others have said. With that out of the way, are they both coalescing? Both filters have a manual drain. I am going to run copper as it is easier to work with. A 12' section of medium wall type L 3/4" cooper piping runs around $46 plus tax here. I am going to run pipe 3/4 the length of my garage on either side (I have a single car garage), it's going to run me around $150 including the necessary couplings, elbows and fittings, as well as accounting for a cooling loop.

I am going to also pick up a hose reel and mount it near my garage door to extend the reach of my air lines just in case.

OH, I was just going to use PVC. :lol_hitti:lol_hitti HAHA, that being said, the lowes here carries the other copper pipe..type M I believe. I have done research on it, and it is supposedly just fine for our application. It runs about $13/10 ft stick. Honestly, at this point I don't think I can afford nearly $200 in pipe! If there is a better option, I'm all for it. I would only be using one single 25 foot air hose, although you guys are right I do NOT want water in my paint! Thus, the filter system. Is the difference between copper and a 25 foot air hose that different? I'm asking because I don't know, not because I'm trying to be a smartass.
 

nine4gmc

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I use the kind that stays soft. You gotta put more on if you open the joint but it's like putty in a tube.
 

The Ratchet Man

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Georgia
Neither one is an oiler. The one of the left is a water seperator with a regulator. We have many of that exact same model at work with an oiler mounted down stream. They work very well in a dirty industrial environment.

The one on the right leaves me guessing. It's also a filter of some sort but not sure for what. Maybe a finer secondary? I'm sure the manufacturer could clear things up with a phone call.
 

1953mercury

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Steamboat Springs CO
Be careful not to over tighten when assembling. Not that hard to crack the housing. I generally use Teflon tape and a light coat of Teflon paste on top of that. You got a decent deal there. Mike
 
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luvmyglockfou

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Prescott, AZ
OKAY..SO I just got it all hooked up, and man the compressor for while. There was water literally dripping at the inlet to the regulator (small leak), just before this filter. After running for a while, I checked the filters and there was NO water in the bowls. What's goin on here?
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ZRX61

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Probably mounted it too close to the compressor, 50ft of hardline is the about the right distance to cool the air so the water condenses allowing it to be filtered out instead of it going straight through the filter as *warm moist air*

so 5 10ft sticks will run you $65, plus elbows etc... nowhere near $200.
 
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luvmyglockfou

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Prescott, AZ
Good point. Im going to be installing a condenser to cool the air here shortly...but then why would it be literally dripping at the regulator, just 6" away, and the filter bowls are dry?
 

Burgerkong

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Probably mounted it too close to the compressor, 50ft of hardline is the about the right distance to cool the air so the water condenses allowing it to be filtered out instead of it going straight through the filter as *warm moist air*

so 5 10ft sticks will run you $65, plus elbows etc... nowhere near $200.

Yeah, for type M pipe, it is around 1/4 the price of type L.
 

EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
Water forms from a rapid drop in pressure (and thus temperature)... If you have a fitting loose then the warm air is going from whatever PSI your tank is to zero...

Your air has to cool to the point where the water vapor condenses into larger droplets. As it goes through those filters from their design & gravity the water will fall into the bowls...

If you want to remove moisture in vapor form you would need like a descant filter.

P.S. An oiler won't have a draincock. The bowl will be very visible so you know how much oil is in it. And it will have a tube that comes down from the top and runs near the bottom of the bowl so it can **** up oil. And it will have an adjustment knob on top to control how much oil it will **** up. ;)
 

AndyA

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Texas Near Dallas
Water will condense easier at higher psi. You may not have water after the regulator since you dropped the pressure.

Or if all the water has condensed and is leaking out before the regulator, then there may not be any water left to remove. I run an aftercooler between my compressor and tank, and I have an automatic tank drain. The air is cool when it reaches the tank. The water falls out in the tank and I usually get no water at my separator after the tank.

The second filter (with the foam internals) looks like a coalescing filter to me. These are designed to remove some of the oil vapor that may be generated by the compressor.
 
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