Building an aluminum gauge panel

[motobilt]

I am working on an custom 1970 Jeep Commando.... well sort of a Commando. Anyway we stripped all of the factory wiring out of the Jeep. Rewiring and adding new Autometer Gauges to keep tabs on the RamJet 350. the center section of the dash was cut to place the switch panel and aftermarket gauges.

The pic shows the panel help with clecos. I will be installing rivnuts in the dash to allow for small screws to hold it in place. This way the panel can easily be removed if needed compared to rivets. Before final install it will be painted satin black to match the interior.

The lip at the top if the panel is there to help keep glare down from the sun and keep the gauges visible.

I thought some of you guys might like this. The Jeep was originally built by Offroad Evolution in conjunction with Four Wheeler Magazine for eBay. It is a nice project. it just needed some finishing work.

Hopefully it is ok to post this type of stuff here. I am new to the forum. I have been building vehicles for many years. Let me know if I can ever help out with anything.

 

[aggierailroad]

That's great stuff right there.

 

[motobilt]

That's great stuff right there.

Thank you

-Dan

 

[FastKat]

Looks great. Is that lip welded on or is it bent down? I've tried to bend 1/8" 6061 aluminum sheet in a conventional sheet metal break, but it creates stress cracks because the bend radius is too tight.

 

[CNGsaves]

That's a nice ride you've got !!

I'd spend a little money getting some chains / tie-downs for transporting on trailer as I'd hate to see a ratchet-strap break and you lose your rig!

 

[PCO6]

Hopefully it is ok to post this type of stuff here.

YES !!! That's a great looking project. Post as much as you can.

 

[readhead]

Good looking work. FastKat, you need to break across the grain not with it.

 

[motobilt]

That's a nice ride you've got !!

I'd spend a little money getting some chains / tie-downs for transporting on trailer as I'd hate to see a ratchet-strap break and you lose your rig!

The pic is the customer's trailer and rigging.

-Dan

 

[motobilt]

Looks great. Is that lip welded on or is it bent down? I've tried to bend 1/8" 6061 aluminum sheet in a conventional sheet metal break, but it creates stress cracks because the bend radius is too tight.

The part was formed. 6061 will crack and/or break if not handled correctly. As mentioned by one of the other members you do need to pay attention to the grain in the aluminum when forming.

I normally use 5052 for application where forming is important like building fuel cells. When I do need the hardness of 6061 on thicker aluminum plate like 3/16" We will use custom radius dies to make bends in the press brake.

-Dan

 

[FastKat]

Ahh thanks for the info guys. So if I understand correctly, the part was formed in a press brake?

Did you use 5052 on that panel? I used .080 5052 sheet on a coolant reservoir, and I was able to bend it in a regular sheet metal brake. Instead of making 90 degree bends, I wound up making two 45's because I was afraid a full 90 degree bend would crack.

 

[motobilt]

Ahh thanks for the info guys. So if I understand correctly, the part was formed in a press brake?

Did you use 5052 on that panel? I used .080 5052 sheet on a coolant reservoir, and I was able to bend it in a regular sheet metal brake. Instead of making 90 degree bends, I wound up making two 45's because I was afraid a full 90 degree bend would crack.

This part was formed on a press brake and it is 5052.

-Dan

 

[signcrafter]

That's a really nice clean looking panel.

 

[motobilt]

That's a really nice clean looking panel.

Thanks

Dan

 

[kazlx]

This is the fab forum after all ...good stuff. I like it.

 

[motobilt]

This is the fab forum after all ...good stuff. I like it.

Thanks. I will post more fabrication pics soon.

Dan