To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

In floor Motorcycle Lift

ZRX1040

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
130
Location
Upper Penninsula, MI
I know it's been done before so nothing new, but I've been putting this off for a while and finally got 'er done last week.

ry%3D400



A few years back I picked up a used lift from a buddy and promptly said "Why did I wait so long?" well now I'm saying it again. So nice not to have to push a 800lb bike up on a 8" platform, much less trip over the thing all the time. Clean simple and out of the way.

First I sold my old lift to another buddy and got a K&L MC625R. The old lift was 7" lowered 32" raised which would put it at 25" once recessed. Not enough. The new one ranges from 8" to 41" leaving a good 33" topped out and it's rated for 1750 lb and has drop outs on both ends. Perfect.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Now for the dirty work...here's how it went.

Find the spot. Centered between the garage doors so a project can sit there without taking up an entire bay.

ry%3D400


Assemble all materials

ry%3D400


Lay it out with marker and pre drill the corners with a hilti to avoid having to over cut the corners.

ry%3D400


Enlist the help of a buddy for a morning and start cutting.

ry%3D400


First piece is the hardest, after that it gets much easier.

ry%3D400


ry%3D400


Finish the hole and grind/chip out the corners.

ry%3D400


Drop form boards in the hole and start removing years of compacted dirt.

ry%3D400


Dirt removed and boards secured 1/8" below grade with split drives.

ry%3D400


Screed board set to 1/16" greater than lowered lift height.

ry%3D400


15 bags mixed dumped and leveled out. This allowed for the slope to the floor drain to remain the same in the hole and keep one corner of the lift from sticking up above finished grade. That'd be me on the right.

ry%3D400


Drilled a hole under the workbench for the air line and made a little guide to keep the pipe in alignment. Drilled another hole in the form board between the two slabs.

ry%3D400


Drove it in a foot at a time, worked it free and dumped the dirt until reaching the penetration. First attempt hit a small low point in the upper slab.

ry%3D400


Tied a bit of paper towel to some twine and sucked it up through the existing slab with the shop vac. Pulled the air line back through and screwed it into the lift.

ry%3D400


Drop llift in and trim hole with a second 2X4 then cap with some 3x3x1/8" diamond plate which is now flush thanks to leaving the forms 1/8" low. Mount controls under the workbench.

ry%3D400


Sit back, enjoy a cold one and order up some bike parts aka thebox full of Progressive Suspension.

ry%3D400


Voila!
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

akdiesel

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
2,617
Location
Wasilla, AK
Nice work.
This is one project I want to do to my shop some day. Not a specific motorcycle lift but an in floor lift two pad set up. Lots of options for more than a vehicle or motorcycle use. A work platform etc...
These threads help out alot. Thanks
 

ekraft84

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 14, 2010
Messages
336
Location
Michigan
Looks great. I did something very similar with a K&L lift table as well. While I didn't like the added cost of doing the concrete up front at the time, I was glad I did after all was said and done.
 

BRIANBB

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
394
Location
Katy Texas
Clean install for sure. I dont see where the new pour is tied into the slab though. How thick is the new pad?
 
OP
Z

ZRX1040

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
130
Location
Upper Penninsula, MI
Looks great. I did something very similar with a K&L lift table as well. While I didn't like the added cost of doing the concrete up front at the time, I was glad I did after all was said and done.

And it looks great. I commented over in your thread. Very nice use of epoxy to tidy things up.:thumbup: I am very impressed with the quality of the K&L stuff.

How does your unit release for lowering? looks the same as mine. Lift the crossbar with your toe? I attached a length of coated cable to the crossbar, then the upper end to the lift at just the right length to allow the top safety catch to engage. But another inch will release the safety. Works slick.



Clean install for sure. I dont see where the new pour is tied into the slab though. How thick is the new pad?

The dirt was very compact. Forms were tied to the slab with split drive anchors. Both slabs are 4.5 -5".
 

matthew_turner

Active member
Joined
Mar 23, 2009
Messages
26
Location
Michigan
very nice.

I know it has only been a week but would you still place it where you did?

hopefully one day I will get one and do the same.
 

OccupantRJ

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
10,906
Location
Eastern North Carolina
I had one in my previous shop. It was formed into place when the floor was poured. An angle iron frame was set even with the floor, and a lip was provided a quarter inch down inside the frame perimeter. The lift was installed, then a quarter inch steel top was attached so that when the lift was down, the plate landed on the lip and the top of the plate was flush with the floor. This kept small objects from dropping through when the lift was down. My unit was electro-hydraulic, so I had a pendant control on a cord reel to allow walking around the lift as it was raised or lowered. There was a beeper installed as a toe alert when lowering. Lift-up u-bolt tiedowns were incorporated around the perimeter of the top to strap bikes down, and a quick removal wheel stop rounded out the package. When I sold my shop to a friend, he traded a larger scissor lift if I let him keep the old one. The new one is 3,500 lbs capacity, and about 3 by 6 feet in size. It will be installed in my present shop.
 
OP
Z

ZRX1040

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
130
Location
Upper Penninsula, MI
I know it has only been a week but would you still place it where you did?

Yep. there's a 2' wide column between the garage doors. Lift is 30" wide. Can park the wife's car on one side and my crew cab on the other. It's far enough forward that I can open the doors without having to be careful. Had the possibility of hail the other day, wheeled the cages right in.

I had one in my previous shop. It was formed into place when the floor was poured. An angle iron frame was set even with the floor, and a lip was provided a quarter inch down inside the frame perimeter. The lift was installed, then a quarter inch steel top was attached so that when the lift was down, the plate landed on the lip and the top of the plate was flush with the floor. This kept small objects from dropping through when the lift was down. My unit was electro-hydraulic, so I had a pendant control on a cord reel to allow walking around the lift as it was raised or lowered. There was a beeper installed as a toe alert when lowering. Lift-up u-bolt tiedowns were incorporated around the perimeter of the top to strap bikes down, and a quick removal wheel stop rounded out the package. When I sold my shop to a friend, he traded a larger scissor lift if I let him keep the old one. The new one is 3,500 lbs capacity, and about 3 by 6 feet in size. It will be installed in my present shop.

Nice. I like the idea of lift up U bolts. The quick removal chock was another selling point for the K&L. They now make a hyd unit that uses a vertical cylinder. Rep said it was something like a 9" diameter hole, 48" deep....or thereabouts...and it would swivel. I'm sure you've seen this thread post 883-4



Awesome, thanks for the write up. Looking to do this soon in my garage. Wondering if I can though....no drain in my shop as it was built without.

Check out kraftomatic's thread. it would be simple to put a small sump in the pit.

Funny looking ZRX......

Troublemaker...:moon:

ry%3D400
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Bogey won

Banned
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
726
Location
TEXAS
It would be easy to hate you, but you did have a Harley in the first pic so you get a pass.

Ive got the direct lift air over hyd, $950 with side plates and a jack. Its got a 69 shovel trike sitting on it.

Then i have the HF manual, that i paid $200 used for, its got a 79 shovel sitting on it.

I admire your install and if the day comes i decide to stay (lived here 22yrs) i will use yours as a blueprint for mine. Maybe a HF sump pump instead of drilling out the crete and piping it, just a thought.

Best to ya from balmy North Texas where a blue norther of 70 sumpn degrees has blowed in, last week 106 on the heat index, whew !!
 

VietHorse

New member
Joined
May 19, 2017
Messages
1
Drop llift in and trim hole with a second 2X4 then cap with some 3x3x1/8" diamond plate which is now flush thanks to leaving the forms 1/8" low. Mount controls under the workbench.

ry%3D400

Looks really intact and very fit at every corner.
I am having the pretty the same project but struggling with making the table surface in-line with the floor.
 

Lost Patriot

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
13
I am at the very early stages of laying out my shop, with the build being ground up, new slab, wiring, plumbing, etc. Essentially a clean sheet of paper. The reason I mention that, is I'd like to incorporate a bike lift and am wondering now that time has passed, would you do anything different? Pros and cons of sunk, etc.??

I'm a bike guy so don't imagine I'd need greater lifting capacity than what you have, but then again, I'm only doing this build one time. Suggestions?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

ekraft84

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 14, 2010
Messages
336
Location
Michigan
I am at the very early stages of laying out my shop, with the build being ground up, new slab, wiring, plumbing, etc. Essentially a clean sheet of paper. The reason I mention that, is I'd like to incorporate a bike lift and am wondering now that time has passed, would you do anything different? Pros and cons of sunk, etc.??

I'm a bike guy so don't imagine I'd need greater lifting capacity than what you have, but then again, I'm only doing this build one time. Suggestions?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Check out the thread on my build. Went through the process and love it.
 
OP
Z

ZRX1040

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
130
Location
Upper Penninsula, MI
Sorry for the delayed reply.... Didn't subscribe to my own threads. Duh.

Looks really intact and very fit at every corner.
I am having the pretty the same project but struggling with making the table surface in-line with the floor.

Check the part where I made a drop in screed and see below.

I've seen a few of these done, but yours is especially nice. Well planned out and excellent attention to detail. Well done!

Thanks. For one I'd make it lower than needed, then shim lift up with some rubber pads. Keeps it up out of any wet runoff from the cars. Especially if your in a salty northern climate. Also make it a touch longer for this particular lift so the bolts for the drop outs don't hand if you forget to thread them all the way back in.

I have a drain in the center of the garage. Next time there will be one under each parking space. I hate stepping in salty sandy runoff between vehicles in winter.
 

Bad67300

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
154
Location
Midwest
I really like this install and will definitely plan on one in my shop in the future. Thanks for posting!
 

jpb

New member
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
1
Location
South Carolina
You did a beautiful job. It was especially clever how you used the pipe to make a passage under the slab for the air. Mine is electric so I want to do the same for the power wires.

I have a few questions:

Were the boards you formed with 2x6, 2X8, 2x10 or wider?

Also you fastened the form wood to the sides of the existing slab with split drives. Is there anything mechanically fastening the the new concrete slab you poured in the bottom to the upper existing garage floor slab?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
OP
Z

ZRX1040

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
130
Location
Upper Penninsula, MI
UH, well, I havn't been on in a while. Don't know why pics aren't showing up. They're still in the same place? 2x12 frame. a few 16 p nails in the lower half of the frame to anchor the lower slab. Tamped the bottom hard before pouring, it's not going anywhere.
 

purpurite

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2007
Messages
323
Location
Aurora, Illinois
UH, well, I havn't been on in a while. Don't know why pics aren't showing up. They're still in the same place?

A few years ago, they updated the site here with an SSL and forced external photo hosts to also have secure site certificates. Your images are on a site with a http:// link and they need an https:// link instead. Try pulling new photo links from Shutterfly, and I'd bet they work again.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom