I need a suggestion on a long handle 12mm box end wrench (12pt), preferably a double box with 10mm & 12mm ends. Needs to be fairly sturdy, as I will be using it primarily to remove 12pt 12mm bolts from Ford 8.8 pinion driveshaft flanges out of Ford Explorers, which can be a PITA to remove.
I typically like to use a 3/8" breaker bar with a shallow 12pt 12mm socket, but sometimes the driveshafts prevent this setup from fitting...hence the need for a strong 12mm box end wrench. Most of these are pulled from salvage yards, so it can be hit or miss whether the transmissions are in place or if the E-brakes are functioning. Accordingly, sometimes the box wrench or breaker bar setup will have to be jammed into the underside of the vehicle to keep the shaft/flange assembly from rotating.
Any suggestions on a 12mm double box wrench? One with a 10mm end would be perfect, as it can be used to break loose stubborn caliper bolts. I'd considered simply cutting a 12mm Craftsman socket in half, then TIG welding it into the face of a box ended 5/8" wrench, which would give me the strength of the larger wrench with the benefits of a very shallow 12mm socket. Plus, I could always cut off the open end of the 5/8" wrench, making it easier to fit a cheater bar for really stubborn flange bolts (and make it easier to wedge into place to keep the assembly for rotating).
I typically like to use a 3/8" breaker bar with a shallow 12pt 12mm socket, but sometimes the driveshafts prevent this setup from fitting...hence the need for a strong 12mm box end wrench. Most of these are pulled from salvage yards, so it can be hit or miss whether the transmissions are in place or if the E-brakes are functioning. Accordingly, sometimes the box wrench or breaker bar setup will have to be jammed into the underside of the vehicle to keep the shaft/flange assembly from rotating.
Any suggestions on a 12mm double box wrench? One with a 10mm end would be perfect, as it can be used to break loose stubborn caliper bolts. I'd considered simply cutting a 12mm Craftsman socket in half, then TIG welding it into the face of a box ended 5/8" wrench, which would give me the strength of the larger wrench with the benefits of a very shallow 12mm socket. Plus, I could always cut off the open end of the 5/8" wrench, making it easier to fit a cheater bar for really stubborn flange bolts (and make it easier to wedge into place to keep the assembly for rotating).
