Re-coating Epoxy that was just done. Will it work or not?

[iibgdi]

So last Wednesday (8/21) I put down this exact flooring. (Red, Solvent based Epoxy)

I was very unhappy with the way it looks as there were a lot more roller marks than I want and the chips are pretty inconsistent and the first quarter or so of the floor we used a shaker and it seemed to leave a layer of light dust on top.

Most people still think it looks great but I just am not that happy as everytime I look at it, I know the things that aren't quite right and it drives me nuts.

I would like to paint/over coat over it with the same product and re-do it. I'm thinking that now I have a better idea of what I am doing and will be able to get a more consistent spreading of the chips.

SOOOO......my questions are this.

1. Can I go over this with another coat even though it has been 5 days?
2. Does it matter that there are chips?
3. I would like to clear coat it and I need to know exactly what product and how long to wait. (It took about 3-4 days before the current surface REALLY hardened up)

Any and all help/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

 

[iibgdi]

Also, is there a good, consistent way to apply the chips that people would recommend?

 

[ez-duzit]

Get your advice from the epoxy product manufacturer.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Hi, you can certainly coat over it again with another layer if you want. You can scuff up the top very slightly with either a random orbit sander or else drywall pole type sanders if it is fully hard and past the chemical window to re-coat. Check with your manufacturer for what that chemical bond time window is. You will have some bumps where the old chips were. This is ok and will just add to your anti-sliip on the floor. More chips will tend to hide it anyway.

Most recommend a polyurethane over epoxy for the best clear coat. There are a few options. Read up on the forum for awhile to learn about what you are doing and your choices. - Paul

 

[OldNeons]

I'm no expert - but we used commercial Rustoleum products to do two separate 1,000 sq ft garage/shops and had great results. I would definitely call the mfg directly for product advice- especially before trying some kind of overlay. IF they say you can coat over - which I doubt now that it's chipped - then give it a whirl? Put ALL your chips in a large bucket or trash barrel and mix thoroughly - then fill a bucket (2-3 gal?) to carry them as you spread them. When throwing the chips up the air - toss lightly as high as you can without hitting the ceiling - and let them flutter down. It takes practice to get even distribution. One floor I did was a light chip, the other was full chip - both with clear top coat. Both turned out well (not perfect- but well) and I would use the products again. Definitely put a shark grip in the clear on a light chip floor or it is an ice rink when wet. Full chip that is not necessary as the roughness of the chips takes care of it. Good luck

 

[iibgdi]

Thanks for the great responses. FYI, I called the mfg and they were great.

They said it would be fine to repaint just as pauls_workshop stated. They also said to sand it before hand.

I plan to do just that and then clear coat it.

Thanks again

 

[drinkmoresake]

I used the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy about 14 months ago and have been very pleased with it.

One tip for spreading the chips, I "filtered" mine through a large colander in order to remove all the little pieces and fine dust. This allowed me to just use the bigger chips. Turned out nice, in my opinion.

Also, if you didn't already, make yourself a pair of spike shoes so you can walk around on the wet epoxy and more easily broadcast the chips. I just drove drywall screws through a piece of 1x4 or 1x6 and then duct taped these to a cheap pair of sneakers. Worked perfectly.
To actually broadcast the chips someone gave me the advice to throw the chips upward while moving your arm in a big rainbow / arc. Seemed to work pretty well. Good Luck!

 

[Trey T]

^good tips!

 

[Red Goat]

After you sand the floor, vacume up the dust. Then wipe the entire floor with lint free cloths and denatured alcohol before recoating to get the rest of the dust up.

Good Luck!

 

[iibgdi]

Great advice with the denatured alcohol. What a great product.

Also, the advice on using a collander on the chips to get rid of the dust and smaller chips and then throwing them high in the air was AWESOME as well. They include WAY more chips than I would ever need and I put it on fairly heavy.

I repainted tonight. WOW it was hot!!! But I am so glad that I did. I can already tell it is going to look incredible. I just wasn't satisfied with it the first time. It already looks more evenly covered and the chips look consistent.

Now I just have to clear coat it and then we are on to the other half of the garage. Lots of work ahead. I'll try and post a before and after pic tomorrow if I can.

 

[iibgdi]

Also, if you didn't already, make yourself a pair of spike shoes so you can walk around on the wet epoxy and more easily broadcast the chips. I just drove drywall screws through a piece of 1x4 or 1x6 and then duct taped these to a cheap pair of sneakers. Worked perfectly.

I actually made the spikes at your recommendation. Didn't need them on this go around as it was a second coat and I was able to stay ahead of the drying process pretty easily.

I had 'em duct taped to some old shoes though, just in case!! Thanks

 

[drinkmoresake]

When I applied my clear coat it was very difficult to see the clear going on. I found the easiest way was to have a bright flood / halogen light sitting on the floor shinning towards the area I was rolling. I also turned off the overhead lights and shut the door (be sure to wear a respirator!). This made it MUCH easier to see the clear as I was applying it. I applied two coats.

I think a previous reply already mentioned it but I would highly suggest adding some anti-slip to the clear coat. Otherwise it is like ice when it gets wet. I used the shark-grip (about 1/2 the suggested amount) and am happy with the results.

 

[iibgdi]

I definitely recommend the 2nd coat.


These are before pics:

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These are after the 1st coat:

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And these are after the 2nd coat











I'm not sure if the photos do any justice but it is night and day different.

Tonight I'll put the clear coat on. I was told by the mfg that it should sit for about 18 hours then put clear coat on. It is already pretty dry after 11-12 hours.

 

[bigbadktm]

Sounds about right on the dry time, say you finish color coat at 4, you start your clear the next day at 8am, you have 16 hours between coats. That first coat acted as a primer coat and sucked into the porous concrete, then your second coat gives you more time and lays out nicer. I have never done a garage floor without a primer coat.

 

[shamoo]

I just put the Rustoleum Premium Clear on mine. The directions say for the regular consumer grade (not Professional Series epoxy) you can put it on anytime after 5 days/full dry/cure. For the Pro series, you should do it between 24 hours and less than 5 days.

Anyway, I'm very happy I did it. Gives it some extra thickness, doesn't add too much shine, and I added some more anti-skid that came in the package. Came out really nice.