Small Shop Project in the Green Mountains

[saba007]

I think you're right - it will probably fall short. I will have the electrician wire up a 240v outlet upstairs. When I figure out if I want to go electric or propane, I will have the option for either. My brother has one of those Hot Dawgs you mentioned in his shop and he loves it. Thanks for the info.

 

[Magneto]

Approaching the home stretch......



Final leg, get the roof on, garage doors installed and I can tackle the interior. The dark siding contrasts with the house but the color gurus (wife & friends) tell me everything will pull together when it's complete. The house and existing garage both have cedar siding which requires staining every 5 years. I'm looking for less maintenance in the future so I went with a premium vinyl on the workshop.

 

[jmauld]

Just curious, but can you remove the wall between the existing garage and the new garage to open the space up more?

The shop looks good, and very well built!

 

[bcoke]

Great project and beautiful craftmanship you do nice work.... I am the southern Vt. [pawlet] rep.......love the color of the vynl siding it matches my "flying A garage" 36x40 monitor barn style with 20x36 upstair storage... the upstair storage area is unheated but is quite comfortable as it get enough heat from the radient heated floor downstairs....your cats[dog] would love the radient heated concrete slab.. Just a thought I did not see any insulation under the slab I always do this on unheated slabs as well as heated just seems to take the chill off and saves heating fuel...I lay a sheet of celotex insulation over the stairwell in the winter but allow a little heat migration upstairs.. As far as the radient you can fall asleep under a car while working on it! I never need to set the thermostat higher than 55 degrees and it is a shirt sleeve enviroment...put on some tunes ans enjoy......bobbycoke

 

[Magneto]

Just curious, but can you remove the wall between the existing garage and the new garage to open the space up more?

The shop looks good, and very well built!

jamuld,

I didn't want to merge the heated shop with an unheated garage. Parking a car in a heated garage in Vermont with all the damn salt they use on the roads during winter will accelerate corrosion. It's bad enough as is unheated. Also, the shop will be used primarily for woodworking so there will be lots of sawdust floating around.

 

[Magneto]

Coming along nicely

Sheetrock up on the ceiling today. Cellulose insulation will be blown in tomorrow between ceiling and 2nd level flooring.

Standing seam metal roofers scheduled for tomorrow. Crew should have that up in 1/2 day.

Two days ago my neighbor who works for the local gas company installed the black iron gas lines to fuel my heating unit.

Modine Hot Dawg 45K BTU sealed combustion unit arrived. I purchased a nifty hanging bracket made by Quick-Sling in Taunton, MA. Makes hanging this unit a breeze.

 

[Magneto]

Great project and beautiful craftmanship you do nice work.... I am the southern Vt. [pawlet] rep.......love the color of the vynl siding it matches my "flying A garage" 36x40 monitor barn style with 20x36 upstair storage... the upstair storage area is unheated but is quite comfortable as it get enough heat from the radient heated floor downstairs....your cats[dog] would love the radient heated concrete slab.. Just a thought I did not see any insulation under the slab I always do this on unheated slabs as well as heated just seems to take the chill off and saves heating fuel...I lay a sheet of celotex insulation over the stairwell in the winter but allow a little heat migration upstairs.. As far as the radient you can fall asleep under a car while working on it! I never need to set the thermostat higher than 55 degrees and it is a shirt sleeve enviroment...put on some tunes ans enjoy......bobbycoke

Hey Bobby,

Thanks for the kudos. Radiant floor heat would have been nice but I had to sacrifice some stuff to remain within budget. I also plan on sealing off the stairway as I do not plan to let any heat migrate above. 2nd level is for household overflow storage and will not be insulated.

 

[Magneto]

Exterior is just about buttoned up..... Garage doors attached. Blowing in some insulation upstairs. With 16" floor trusses, that is a lot of R-value.

 

[saba007]

Nice progress mag. Now that's some serious insulation. Your Sheetrock on the ceiling looks decent, will you be mudding or painting? I will be taking that on ad a DIY in a couple of weeks.and I HATE taping and mudding.

 

[Magneto]

Nice progress mag. Now that's some serious insulation. Your Sheetrock on the ceiling looks decent, will you be mudding or painting? I will be taking that on ad a DIY in a couple of weeks.and I HATE taping and mudding.

Absolutely hate mudding & taping. I've did some decent size sheetrock jobs in the past and although I can do it pretty well I'm very slow at it. My ex-brother-in-law owned a sheetrocking business in So. Florida and was a master at it. He made it look far too easy. But yes, the plan is to do it my self. The wife told me to hire it out as she doesn't want to hear all my swearing when I'm doing it.

 

[Magneto]

This is where I'm at currently. I wired all the outlets and switches. Now I'm tackling the sub-panel. I'm using my old 100 amp main panel from my house before I upgraded to a 200 amp service. First time doing a sub-panel. I need a few more 20amp breakers. I think I followed all the rules and wired correctly. I added an isolated ground bar and removed the grounding screw from the neutral bar. I'll find out if everything works this weekend when I energize it.

 

[BeachBoy]

Nice build!

Hello from Grand Isle county!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

 

[saba007]

This is where I'm at currently. I wired all the outlets and switches. Now I'm tackling the sub-panel. I'm using my old 100 amp main panel from my house before I upgraded to a 200 amp service. First time doing a sub-panel. I need a few more 20amp breakers. I think I followed all the rules and wired correctly. I added an isolated ground bar and removed the grounding screw from the neutral bar. I'll find out if everything works this weekend when I energize it.

I wish I can (have the sack to) do electrical. Today the electrician told me the same exact thing. House has a 100amp, and they will upgrade that to 200 and use the one from the house in the Garage. Good luck. I am sure it will go well.

 

[Press_Corpse]

The addition looks awesome! That is a ton of insulation, should stay comfy nicely. Ever think about raising the roof on the original garage to match both roofs? That could be for household overflow and the area above the garage will be for you / outdoor stuff like the kayaks you mentioned. Keep it up, can't wait to see this finished.

 

[Sunbimmer]

Nice, nice, nice,

 

[Magneto]

Weekend Update

Progress has slowed thanks to a certain Big Box Store that rhymes with Blows. I intended to install stone wool insulation this weekend which is a special order product. Scheduled delivery was for Thursday, even received the email the evening before confirming delivery. Guess what, no delivery, in fact the store never received their shipment from vendor. As I told the store manager, "What we have here is a failure to communicate" Okay movie buffs, what movie? In any event I was so pissed I cancelled the order due to the store's attitude and poor customer service. I'm going with the fiberglass insulation, less money, and it won't come from the store that rhymes with BLOWS.

So I decided to spend this Labor Day weekend prepping the garage floor to receive the High Gloss Acrylic Urethane Sealer I'll be laying down. No fancy colored epoxy coating for me. Just a gloss over the cement. I like that industrial look.

Here are some before pics, I'm giving it a 24 hour drying period. Should be able to get the first coat on this evening.

 

[rmckee]

Looks like you've done a great job! There's a lot of people out there that can't appreciate just how badly (salty) our New England winters are on the frames of our cars. Drives me around the bend!

 

[Bib Overalls]

"What we have here is a failure to communicate" Okay movie buffs, what movie?

Cool Hand Luke

"What we've got here is failure to communicate. Some men you just can't reach. So you get what we had here last week, which is the way he wants it. Well, he gets it. I don't like it anymore than you men." Captain

 

[Magneto]

Cool Hand Luke

"What we've got here is failure to communicate. Some men you just can't reach. So you get what we had here last week, which is the way he wants it. Well, he gets it. I don't like it anymore than you men." Captain

 

[Magneto]

3 Coats of High Gloss Sealer. The photo doesn't do this finish justice. It looks super. I'm applying a 4th coat for good measure and because I have a gallon remaining. Each coat took about one gallon.

 

[hpw]

3 Coats of High Gloss Sealer. The photo doesn't do this finish justice. It looks super. I'm applying a 4th coat for good measure and because I have a gallon remaining. Each coat took about one gallon.

dam.....looks good....almost like it was stained also, what brand is it?

 

[Magneto]

dam.....looks good....almost like it was stained also, what brand is it?

It's a commerical grade product that comes highly recommended from a friend of mine who owns several warehouses. He swears by it. I was skeptical because it's a Glidden product and water based, but Glidden bought out the original company which was ICI Groundworks. My friend said it holds up very well.

This is the link: http://www.gliddenprofessional.com/..._-_Special_Task/Clear_Urethane_Acrylic_Sealer

Oh, and it isn't stained. I had a very unique concrete pattern with dark and light spots. It was machine floated so I think that had something to do with the cool effects.

 

[saba007]

Floor looks amazing. Nice work. I am not even going to start with Lowes. Every order I have made with them in the past has been a nightmare 4 of 4 this year.

Question on the sealant: do you apply this like epoxy - I.e. pour and spread - or is it more like paint? Just roll it on.

 

[Magneto]

Floor looks amazing. Nice work. I am not even going to start with Lowes. Every order I have made with them in the past has been a nightmare 4 of 4 this year.

Question on the sealant: do you apply this like epoxy - I.e. pour and spread - or is it more like paint? Just roll it on.

Hi Saba,

It's milky white in the can with a water consistency. Apply it with a 1/2" nap roller. Recoat within a few hours, although I waited six or more before recoating. The final coat (4th) went on yesterday afternoon. The can calls for 2 to 3 coats depending on cement absorption. 4 coats on a 28' x 24' floor used 3 1/2 gallons. It's good for light foot traffic today, 72 hours for vehicle traffic.

 

[saba007]

Cool. So no need to wash the floor like you would with epoxy? Just sweep/shop vac and apply. Also where did you order from? Just checked amazon and doesn't look like they have it.

 

[Magneto]

Cool. So no need to wash the floor like you would with epoxy? Just sweep/shop vac and apply. Also where did you order from? Just checked amazon and doesn't look like they have it.

New concrete should be cured at least 30 days. And you should still wash it with TSP, rinse well, and dry for 24 hours.

You can't buy this stuff from Amazon. Here is a link for locations in NH that sell it. http://www.gliddenprofessional.com/storeRepLocator

NASHUA WALLPAPER & PAINT
129 West Pearl St
Nashua, NH 03060
(603) 882-9491

QUEEN CITY NASHUA PAINT
777 Lake Ave
Manchester, NH 03109
(603) 668-4155

 

[Magneto]

What's Next

Picked up some T8 strip lights today. I need to tape and mud the ceiling before hanging. Hopefully, this weekend.

Getting ready to install the Hot Dawg Heater. The nights are already turning cooler.

Will pick up insulation this weekend and button up walls.

Painted the inside foundation wall which should tie into my overall paint scheme.

And, purchased some wall cabinets, work bench with two underneath roller cabinets.

It will probably be awhile before my next post. Unfortunately, work gets in the way of my personal life.

 

[jbitter001]

Quick Question...does the floor get slippery if wet? Looks like it might.

 

[TRWTOW]

love your floor
think im gonna try it on mine

 

[bigred292]

Your workshop looks great- Really like the floor!
Are you doing most things yourself(carpentry wise)?
I'm down here in RI and have been working on my project for almost 3 yrs- finish line is in sight!
Good luck and enjoy it.

 

[Firebrand]

Boy that floor looks fantastic! Great concept there along with your approach to planning access and people/stuff portals.

 

[Magneto]

Quick Question...does the floor get slippery if wet? Looks like it might.

I hear ya... I'm not too sure yet. I laid some water down and walked around normal on it and it wasn't really that bad. The finish is still new but after it gets buffed down from normal use I can see it being a little slippery.

love your floor
think im gonna try it on mine

I think you'll love it. Prep is key.

Your workshop looks great- Really like the floor!
Are you doing most things yourself(carpentry wise)?
I'm down here in RI and have been working on my project for almost 3 yrs- finish line is in sight!
Good luck and enjoy it.

Love RI striper fishing! I had a builder frame it up for me and sheath it. Didn't have the time to invest. I did the electrical and will do all interior work at this point.

Boy that floor looks fantastic! Great concept there along with your approach to planning access and people/stuff portals.

Thanks Firebrand!

 

[Magneto]

I was able to get a little done this weekend with the insulation. This newer fiberglass insulation is nothing like the old stuff I remember from 20 years ago. I can actually work with this without wearing a full body suit. It hardly itches. I did wear a facemask.

 

[saba007]

Looking good brother. I know you did the blow-in insulation in the ceiling. Does that mean you are not insulating the loft/attic space? If not, will you be putting in some sort of a hatch door on top of these stairs? Side note, I didn't think R19 is code approved nowadays. The town inspector told me R21 for walls. I don't know.

 

[Magneto]

Looking good brother. I know you did the blow-in insulation in the ceiling. Does that mean you are not insulating the loft/attic space? If not, will you be putting in some sort of a hatch door on top of these stairs? Side note, I didn't think R19 is code approved nowadays. The town inspector told me R21 for walls. I don't know.

Hey Saba,

No plans to insulate the upstairs for now. Mainly storage area. Hatch door for the winter will drop down on a rail system I'm going to build. I'll probably triple up some 2" rigid foam and encase it in a veneer to add weight. Nothing fancy but something I can paint white to match the ceiling. The R-19 is for 2x6 walls. It has a depth of 6 1/2 inches. Purchased at Home Depot, there were no other options. Fortunately no bldg inspectors to deal with in my town so no code restrictions. The outer and interior wall also have a slight R-value, maybe R-1 each which make it R21. Short of building thicker walls I don't know how to get a higher R value. What did you use?

 

[saba007]

Hey Saba,

No plans to insulate the upstairs for now. Mainly storage area. Hatch door for the winter will drop down on a rail system I'm going to build. I'll probably triple up some 2" rigid foam and encase it in a veneer to add weight. Nothing fancy but something I can paint white to match the ceiling. The R-19 is for 2x6 walls. It has a depth of 6 1/2 inches. Purchased at Home Depot, there were no other options. Fortunately no bldg inspectors to deal with in my town so no code restrictions. The outer and interior wall also have a slight R-value, maybe R-1 each which make it R21. Short of building thicker walls I don't know how to get a higher R value. What did you use?

Fancy door. I like your foam idea for my hatch. I will use it with white veneer to match the ceiling as well.

In my case, I asked the builder and he said R21 is code. Went to Blows and they had it in stock with moisture barrier. Mine is 5 or 5.5 inch thick though. It was nice to install and staple between the on center 2x6 studs. Then I opened up a roll of r30 from the attic stuff and went around padding around the electrical boxes and where the wife installed it

My town inspector had a line item for insulation on his tag. Now I am thinking about it, maybe r21 is required because upstairs is more mantown than storage. I guess a balvony and french doors gave it away. Not sure I will ask him when he does the final inspection. He was kind enough to inspect the insulation on photos

 

[Punchwood]

Looks flippin' fantastic !! My wife is from South Hero.

 

[Magneto]

End of week update Slooooowwww going. Finished installing the unfaced insulation. Put some bridging between studs where I know I'll be hanging some cabinets. I'm hanging a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier. That's about it for this week.

I decided the hell with sheetrock walls. This is a shop DAMMIT , not a living room. I'm going with 1/2" OSB board, screwed in, that I will prime and paint white. It will be easy to hang stuff. And if I ever need to get back behind the wall I can just unscrew the panel. Anyone have feedback about that plan?

 

[Firebrand]

Wood walls are great if you experience wide swings in temperature and humidity. Nothing like that ever happens here in New England, right? Oh wait. You'll be happy with the wood on the walls for many reasons, some of which you touched on already. Go for it! Make it durable and replaceable without mudding in, too!

 

[ryanp77]

great job so far... I really miss New England