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Help me choose a new hacksaw

pendragon1998

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Mar 24, 2012
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Location
NE Georgia
I'm looking for a new hacksaw. I'd prefer USA-made, but on this one, a foreign-made one wouldn't be a deal-breaker. I have narrowed it down to four models. I'd appreciate your opinions. Thanks!


Stanley 20-531 17-Inch 24 TPI FatMax High Tension Hacksaw
[NO LONGER USA - MADE IN CHINA WHEN SOURCED FROM AMAZON]
- $26

31dkmwVrs-L._SX300_.jpg



Lenox HT50 12'' Hacksaw Frame [TAIWAN] - $31

31miRGkzCyL._SX300_.jpg



DEWALT DW3970 12-Inch High Tension Hack Saw Frame [USA] - $34

319YhrphnOL._SY300_.jpg



Bahco by Snap-On 325 Premium Ergonomic Hacksaw by Bahco [SWEDEN] - $36

31EZY0DYJML._SX342_.jpg
 
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Stuey

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That Bahco is superb. I believe I have a Craftsman-branded copy of it. I'm not sure which my 2nd choice pick would be.
 

neophyte

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I have one of the Bahco 325 hacksaw frames. It's incredibly solid, easy to use, and the ergonomics are excellent. I also have one of the Craftsman Professional rebranded ones. It's not as versatile as my Facom Hacksaw frame, but if you have to do a lot of cutting with a hacksaw I'd vote for it over the Facom.
 

jmm

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I have that Bahco, branded Snap-On. It's very nice. Bahco makes my favorite blades, too (Sandflex, they're awesome). Highly recommended.
 

jeremy v

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I don't have that particular Stanley hacksaw the OP has pictured, but I do have one that looks almost the same and it is one of my favorites mainly because of the handle angle. Notice how the Stanley handle is angled noticeably more than all the other brands shown? That increased angle seems to fit my natural cutting motion much more comfortably, but it might just be because the handle angle more closely matches the standard handle angle of a hand saw for cutting wood so I naturally prefer the more consistent feel between all my hand saws.

One thing I do notice is that the angle on the Stanley allows me to easily put a little bit more or less down force into the cut when cutting one-handed depending on the application. With a more straight up and down handle you pretty much have to use a second hand at the front end to provide any down force beyond the weight of the hacksaw itself. The only other way to adjust downward pressure one-handed is to hold a constant rotational force with your wrist which can become tiring. With a more angled handle a small but noticeable percentage of each natural push of the blade goes into downward force to give the teeth a bit better bite automatically, and shifting the hand on the handle can make for a perfect feel and cutting speed. The slight handle curve in addition to the generally greater handle angle means that if you shift your hand up the handle you get slightly increased down force.
 
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Jolomite

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Oct 6, 2011
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Detroit, Michigan
I hope the GJ readers won't mind a different question related to hacksaws: Is a hacksaw supposed to cut on the push forward stroke, or on the pull back stroke? I seem to get less vibration when the cut is on the pull back stroke. Thank you for any advice you can lend.
 

richfinn

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Leeds, Yorkshire, England
I hope the GJ readers won't mind a different question related to hacksaws: Is a hacksaw supposed to cut on the push forward stroke, or on the pull back stroke? I seem to get less vibration when the cut is on the pull back stroke. Thank you for any advice you can lend.

On the push is the traditional way
 

rlitman

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Long Island
A tensioned blade saw (like a hacksaw), or a saw blade with a spine on the back (like a dovetail saw) is always made to cut on the push stroke.

You cut way faster that way. Saw some more to build up muscle memory, and eventually you can work through the fact that a push saw is grabby in unskilled hands.

I have a plastic Stanley hacksaw with a narrow nose that is similar to the top one listed, except that it does not have that front handle. I find the frame to be a bit springy, but I keep a 32 tpi blade in it, which it works well with.

I have an older fiberglass/metal Stanley hacksaw which is one of the best I've ever handled:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X22T/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This holds more tension than the Lenox (which is fantastic BTW), and really works well with a 14 tpi blade (most hacksaw frames don't have the stiffness to handle less than 18 tpi well).
 
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neophyte

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I hope the GJ readers won't mind a different question related to hacksaws: Is a hacksaw supposed to cut on the push forward stroke, or on the pull back stroke? I seem to get less vibration when the cut is on the pull back stroke. Thank you for any advice you can lend.

Tradition says to cut on the push stroke. The way the handle, and front horn is situated on the Bahco hacksaw also makes cutting on the push stroke and applying extra pressure in the cut strokes easy. One nice thing about the Bahco hacksaw frame is how quickly the blade can be changed. If you find the push stroke not working well at some angles such as overhead work it's easy to switch the blade the opposite way around.
 

Outlander

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Quebec, Canada
What? My $5 corner store hacksaw is no good? Too bad I spent my allowance on Channellocks or I would be running out looking for hacksaw goodness.

I hate you guys. Really.
 

scaron

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Aug 6, 2013
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ypsilanti, michigan
i dunno if you have a home depot nearby but if you do, look out for a package deal from stanley with a nice tubular frame hacksaw and a mini-hack thrown in. i already have a few hacksaws (and i bought the mini-hack years ago separately) but if i didn't, i would probably pick this up, i'm impressed with the construction quality of these new (to me) tubular frame saws, how solid it feels, and the mini-hack is a useful little bonus. the klein 702-12 has similar design and i'm sure it would be just as good or even better. if i had to pick one of the above i'd go with the bahco because it's an excellent make and it's got that tubular frame design as well.
 
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zip94

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Houston, TX
It took a while, but I found a Starrett K152 USA made. Very solid and should last forever.
 

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czgunner

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WY
Dang, I think I need that Bahco saw.
That Craftsman ends up being more than the Bahco after shipping.
What is the COO of the Bahco?
 

Provincial

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Near Salem, OR
I have had a couple of Sandvik hacksaws like the one below for over 30 years. They have worked very well for me. As a mobile mechanic, the ability to store an assortment of extra blades in the square tube spine of the saw has paid off many times, not only when breaking/dulling a blade, but also when I need a coarser or finer tooth blade.
 

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monkeyspanners

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I have had a couple of Sandvik hacksaws like the one below for over 30 years. They have worked very well for me. As a mobile mechanic, the ability to store an assortment of extra blades in the square tube spine of the saw has paid off many times, not only when breaking/dulling a blade, but also when I need a coarser or finer tooth blade.

I have one like that, must be nearly 20 years old but is branded Britool, the adjuster broke off so now it wing nut brazed on.
 

Roverbo

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Denmark
+1 to the Bahco saw! Works a treat, and for me it´s an extra bonus that it´s still made in Sweden (most Bahco stuff coming from France, Portugal, Argentina or even China these days...). And be sure to get the original swedish :thumbup: Sandflex blades too.
 

Roverbo

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I have had a couple of Sandvik hacksaws like the one below for over 30 years. They have worked very well for me. As a mobile mechanic, the ability to store an assortment of extra blades in the square tube spine of the saw has paid off many times, not only when breaking/dulling a blade, but also when I need a coarser or finer tooth blade.

I have a few of the Sandviks too. Very good saws, and lightweight (nice for overhead jobs). Too bad, Sandvik is no longer in the toolbusiness. The Bahco saws "made in Sweden" is whats left. The Bahco blades has kept the "Sandflex" name.
 

Monte

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I have the Bahco 325. It´s a very good, ergonomic, sturdy built tool with a easy blade changing mechanism. Made in Sweden.
 

Rickster

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Don't take this the wrong way, but the last time I handled my hack saw it was to move it to the back of the toolbox drawer. I know there are times when you have to use one but I've been using the Dremel for small lobs and the angle grinder for everything else.
 

rlitman

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I've got two hacksaws hanging from nails under the bench, and 4 or 5 wood saws next to them. The PortaBand horizontal bandsaw is only two steps away, but the hacksaws still get regular use.
 

neophyte

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Don't take this the wrong way, but the last time I handled my hack saw it was to move it to the back of the toolbox drawer. I know there are times when you have to use one but I've been using the Dremel for small lobs and the angle grinder for everything else.

Hacksaws don't produce much in the way of sparks, the same can't be said about grinders or abrasive wheels on a dremel. Hacksaws are also less likely to cause catastrophic injuries in awkward cutting situations than many power tools might.
 

bczygan

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To the OP...

I've got two perfectly good hacksaws, with names I can't remember just now...

Why on earth would you post such delectable choices and make my life more complicated???

Oh well....
 
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Dave455

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Mar 19, 2013
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Sussex, England
Finding a decent hacksaw frame is tricky right now!

The best I ever used was a Snap On one dating from the late 80's! It wasn't their regular one, but their 'high tension' or somesuch. Held the blade firmer and straighter than anything else. Sadly, it wasn't mine! Sadly discontinued!

Second best are the old British made Eclipse frames. There are several types, but the only ones worth having are the solid steel ones with the nickel plated handle! The tube steel frames are nothing special.

The Starrett are o.k. (perhaps even the best of the current crop)! but are made of a lightweight alloy and can just shatter when you tighten up the blade!

Any tool makers out there - re make the Snap On pattern please!!!
 
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