Upgrading air compressor plumbing, any advice?

[CNGsaves]

Looks plenty sturdy . . . and BIG . . . so far !!

Only question is whether you have flexible connection (ie a hydraulic hose) connecting the compressor to the airline system ?? You don't want hardpipe connection to compressor as vibration might lead to cracked joint.

 

[Strouty]

Looks plenty sturdy . . . and BIG . . . so far !!

Only question is whether you have flexible connection (ie a hydraulic hose) connecting the compressor to the airline system ?? You don't want hardpipe connection to compressor as vibration might lead to cracked joint.

I have a nice braided stainless flex that comes off the compressor to the first section on the wall. All the other flex hoses are actually air line good for heat and pressure, the hose is used for jackhammers and other large volume air tools. My biggest issue so far is trying to figure out what connectors to use. My current equipment has all industrial "M" style fittings. These have a 1/4" opening. I went and bought some "H" style that have the 3/8" opening but I can't find any local ones that have 3/8" female NPT, I guess I will order some. These will be used for the 1/2" and 3/4" impacts as well as the sandblasting. Anyone have any other advice or suggestions on couplers? My local supplier has coilhose pneumatics and I have a few miltons as well.

 

[JimmyTheMonkey]

Strouty,

Thank you for creating what appears to be the best thread on air line plumbing I have found on GJ to date.

Two quick questions for your great looking setup:
1) are you just planning on leaving your compressor sitting unaffixed to the floor with no vibration pads? It looks stable as is.
2) what did you use to attach your piping to the wall?

 

[Strouty]

Strouty,

Thank you for creating what appears to be the best thread on air line plumbing I have found on GJ to date.

Two quick questions for your great looking setup:
1) are you just planning on leaving your compressor sitting unaffixed to the floor with no vibration pads? It looks stable as is.
2) what did you use to attach your piping to the wall?

I am glad you find it informative, hopefully more people will add to it as well. I am learning as I go. I have not thought about vibration pads, the compressor does not move but it may be worth trying for noise and longevity of parts. I used unistrut to attach piping to the walls. It is available at any electrical supply house or even home depot. I will post some pics in a few minutes.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

 

[Strouty]

This is what it looks like. I am on my phone so I will get into more detail later.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

 

[wbrian63]

Looks good - hard work I'm sure but results will be rewarding.

One suggestion - I'd reverse the direction of the ball valve you're using for the bleed port so you don't have to put your hand in the path of the exiting air. Possibly you can just reverse the position of the handle, depending on the design of the valve.

Just my 2-cents.

Regards

 

[sberry]

Yes, it will work and not everyone can get 5 extra fittings in 18 inches of run.

 

[Strouty]

That is a good thought but I really don't open the valve all the way. It is pretty much just cracked open so my hand is not near the opening. I need to add some more valves but I did not have enough money for them yet.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

 

[Strouty]

So this morning I found a leak, it was in the brass I used at the regulator/water separator. I used brass fittings from lowes. They say china on them. I tried tightening them but the threads are squeaking. I went and bought the good stuff.....
. made in indonesia! No one local had usa made brass, I wonder if there is a reason? Anyway I need to break down a small part and replace the fittings.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

 

[AndyA]

My biggest issue so far is trying to figure out what connectors to use. My current equipment has all industrial "M" style fittings. These have a 1/4" opening. I went and bought some "H" style that have the 3/8" opening but I can't find any local ones that have 3/8" female NPT, I guess I will order some.

Maybe make up a few adapters that are H-style male to M-style female. This way you can use high flow outlets all over the shop, but not have to change out the fittings on all your existing tools.

Or make up some short hoses with H-style male and M-style female. You need "whip" hoses to get from the outlet to the tool anyway.

 

[Strouty]

Maybe make up a few adapters that are H-style male to M-style female. This way you can use high flow outlets all over the shop, but not have to change out the fittings on all your existing tools.

Or make up some short hoses with H-style male and M-style female. You need "whip" hoses to get from the outlet to the tool anyway.

I am definitely making a couple of adapters, but I have two reels now and will be adding two more in the future, so I probably won't need many adapters. My current reels are 50' of 1/2" and 60' of 3/8" so I am just using the larger "H" style on the 1/2" and the "M" style on the 3/8" I hardly ever need to use my spare hoses, the reels make it so much nicer.

 

[JimmyTheMonkey]

I am glad you find it informative, hopefully more people will add to it as well. I am learning as I go. I have not thought about vibration pads, the compressor does not move but it may be worth trying for noise and longevity of parts. I used unistrut to attach piping to the walls. It is available at any electrical supply house or even home depot. I will post some pics in a few minutes.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

Thanks! I thought that looked like unistrut, but I have never used the stuff so I am not too familiar. I am planning on plumbing my compressor next week and will basically use this thread as a guide. Thanks again!

 

[Strouty]

Thanks! I thought that looked like unistrut, but I have never used the stuff so I am not too familiar. I am planning on plumbing my compressor next week and will basically use this thread as a guide. Thanks again!

Post some pictures up maybe we can keep this thread alive and get more people to add more advice and ideas.

 

[Strouty]

I had to move some of my stuff because of the way my reels were plumbed but so far so good. Now I have to move some cabinets over for tool storage.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

 

[e-tek]

I had to move some of my stuff because of the way my reels were plumbed but so far so good. Now I have to move some cabinets over for tool storage.

.

that looks close to perfect to me.

 

[Strouty]

that looks close to perfect to me.

Thank you for the support. I think once I am able to step back it will be as close to perfect as I can get in my shop. I have racking all over the place and it is just a mess. I have decided that not only will my air tools go under the reels, but I will make a section for all cordless tools too. It just seems like the right thing to do. I am debating if I should also keep grinders and all the supplies in that area too, it kind of goes with the theme.

 

[iajonesy]

Strouty and MTW,this could not have come at a better time for me. My new air compressor was delivered last Friday,and as soon as I finish my wall cabinets and setting my sanders,grinders,welders and such I'm going to be setting up the air comp. This whole discussion has changed my way of thinking about how compressed air acts upon moisture etc. in the lines. Thanks to you guys I have a lot better understanding of an air system. How do I keep this thread so that I can easily refer back to it when I need to? Thanks again for this valuable lesson. You can teach an old dog new tricks.

Mike

 

[Strouty]

Strouty and MTW,this could not have come at a better time for me. My new air compressor was delivered last Friday,and as soon as I finish my wall cabinets and setting my sanders,grinders,welders and such I'm going to be setting up the air comp. This whole discussion has changed my way of thinking about how compressed air acts upon moisture etc. in the lines. Thanks to you guys I have a lot better understanding of an air system. How do I keep this thread so that I can easily refer back to it when I need to? Thanks again for this valuable lesson. You can teach an old dog new tricks.

Mike

Make sure you post some pictures as well. As for the thread take a look at the top of the thread, there is a "thread tools" tab (in the blue), you can click that and then choose to subscribe to the thread. It will ask if you want any notifications when people update the thread, I usually choose none. Then when you want to view any of the threads you subscribe to, click on the "quick links" tab (in the black) and choose "subscribed threads".

 

[JimmyTheMonkey]

As requested, below is a preliminary picture of the new compressor in place where it will go and a very rudimentary drawing of the air line plan, made according to this thread. Sorry for my total lack of artistic talent.

As you can see in the drawing, I plan to plumb the line straight back from the compressor to the wall behind it using a flex line, make a drip line, and then run the line up the wall and around the corner, ending roughly where the driver's door is on the car. I will then plumb another drip line with a t-splice, put in the filter/regulator and then throw in the hose reel. I only need one air exit because I am mostly just using air tools and my garage isn't huge. I will have to use a more aggressive incline than my drawing because the door into the crawl space is pretty tall in the corner.

I have not decided on copper v. brass yet. I am not good at sweating copper but my Atlanta garage is about as humid as they get. I may have a buddy help me, but he just used a good year hose to plumb his airline in his shop. I may use the Copper push fittings to make things easier.

 

[Strouty]

If you can use copper it will help. I wanted too but it was way to much for my budget. I am pretty sure that I have about $700 into mine not including reels and separator/regulator. Today was raining so I could not do the sandblasting. Tomorrow is going to rain again and I have to work saturday. Maybe sunday I will be able to give it a good test.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

 

[JimmyTheMonkey]

Yeah, I am thinking that copper may be the best bet, just a pain in the ****!

Strouty, why did you use the flex line at the top of each drop?

 

[Strouty]

Yeah, I am thinking that copper may be the best bet, just a pain in the ****!

Strouty, why did you use the flex line at the top of each drop?

OCD? I had the main trunk line at an angle so it would drain and I couldn't live with the drops at another angle. I tried to bend them, but they looked weird. The flex allowed me to have them plumb so my OCD doesn't flare up too bad.



As for the copper, you could use the "shark bite" fittings, they are more expensive, but no soldering. I think your setup lends itself to copper based on simplicity. If you have a lot of humidity it will make the moisture condense faster than the black iron.

 

[myfinishingtouch]

Where did you purchase the red flex hose? Is it hydraulic hose? What diameter black pipe are you using?
Thanks,
Dave

 

[Strouty]

Where did you purchase the red flex hose? Is it hydraulic hose? What diameter black pipe are you using?
Thanks,
Dave

I had the local hydraulic hose supply place make them. They are air hose, the style used for jackhammers and other tools. They are good to 300PSI and can take the heat from the air. The main line of the pipe is 1" and the drops are 3/4".

 

[sberry]

A little too much can be as bad as none at all. Yes, there is a perfect system and its never neglected but it can get over complicated and doesn't mean much in the long run. Level or nrar level would have been fine,, so would 3.4 pipe to keep the air moving a bit till any water drops hit the drop. A T on the top with a single piece of pipe to the t where the regs go on. maybe a valve there if I had extra so I could service that equipment while the main was on.
As you find out,, all this is expensive, could have been done for less than half the cost, 1/4 the fittings, you would have never kno0wn the difference.

That being said I mean no0 disrespect but its a good learning experience, stand back and look. The whole job needs 1 hose and one union. Learn to simplify.

 

[sberry]

The beauty of Unistrut is if properly installed it leave room for adjustment and disassembly. Makes it easy to remove or work on a section.

 

[JimmyTheMonkey]

To each his own. I commend Strourt for going the extra mile and doing things professionally, even if unnecessary.

Sure, I don't have to clay and wax/seal my car each year, the car will still operate perfectly without it, but I take pride in spending the extra time and expense to do it right. I also commend those who don't feel the need to even wash their car, as imagine how much time and money (and sanity) they save!

 

[Strouty]

A little too much can be as bad as none at all. Yes, there is a perfect system and its never neglected but it can get over complicated and doesn't mean much in the long run. Level or nrar level would have been fine,, so would 3.4 pipe to keep the air moving a bit till any water drops hit the drop. A T on the top with a single piece of pipe to the t where the regs go on. maybe a valve there if I had extra so I could service that equipment while the main was on.
As you find out,, all this is expensive, could have been done for less than half the cost, 1/4 the fittings, you would have never kno0wn the difference.

That being said I mean no0 disrespect but its a good learning experience, stand back and look. The whole job needs 1 hose and one union. Learn to simplify.

Disrespect taken with a grain of salt. I can easily modify any section at any time. That was my goal. I did not want to have to try and tighten or thread a new fitting twelve feet in the air later. As it stands now, the longest section I have is ten foot six and that is managable by one person on a ladder.

Sent by carrier pigeon.

 

[sberry]

I agree, its not a "bad" thing.

going the extra mile and doing things professionally, even if unnecessary.

This is a compliment but contradictory. This kind of work is meant to be economical, we hate to see a guy stop because he needs to get more money for more valves and more fittings etc. Many that serve no purpose.

You will get no disagreement that this will work. We recently plumbed an new leg with a similar system, had to buy 60 ft of pipe and 4 couplings, used a hose barb as the union. Screwed the trunk together on the floor, hung one end and then the other. Screwed the drops in from the ground. I could easily plumb 2 of these a day.

I see by the thread date we are in to this a month. This is ok too. I am all for giving an atta boy for a good job, I get caught on occasion myself on occasion especially where I am trying to do for free or cheap.

But being a critic here a bit is fair, the op asked for opinions, the diy tends to overbuild, in this case it has added significant expense and time. Probably not an issue or a deal killer but something worthy of noting. If a guy approaches every job this way he is in the wrong game, if it is a great learning experience then its worth the price.

 

[Strouty]

I agree, its not a "bad" thing. This is a compliment but contradictory. This kind of work is meant to be economical, we hate to see a guy stop because he needs to get more money for more valves and more fittings etc.

As far as my setup, I would have had many issues had I not used so many unions. I had a couple lines that leaked and had I tightened them without my unions, it would have meant turning a lot of fittings. I understand what you are saying and to all those interested in plumbing your shop air with whatever type of material, (minus PVC), anything will be better than nothing. This was what I chose to do, it was more money than I wanted to spend, but I am happy with the results. I know that if I want to add another drop or a valve or extend my system, it will be easy to do in the future. That was my goal, other people might not care about expansion or about multiple drops, heck they might not even care about water separation or air pressure regulation. This thread is for information and ideas, take part of the info or all of it. I would rather have discussions about various ways to plumb an air compressor rather than debates about how much is too much or how little you can get away with.

 

[bczygan]

A question about moisture and pipe length.
If I have a small space and will be close to the compressor, could I run the pipe vertically, up and down to get the length needed?
Would I need a drip leg at the bottom of each piece?

If using copper, what spec> K, L or M?

 

[SeattleKent]

I'm probably a little late to the party, but I wanted to add my 2 cents worth for other people building systems. I built a system in my garage that followed the TP design very closely. It was a bit of a pain. The mainline is about six inch off the wall to make room for the up and then down for each of the drops. Painful or not, it has worked really, really well. The air at the drops is very dry. Never even a hint of moisture.

Some of that could be the area. Seattle does not have the high humidity of other place. My FIL lives near by. He did a system with a main line and simple T's to the drops. I used his system for just blowing off some parts. After five or ten minutes I had water dripping out of the air gun.

 

[sberry]

I would rather have discussions about various ways to plumb an air compressor rather than debates about how much is too much or how little you can get away with.

This is part of the discussion. It is "part of various ways"

 

[CNGsaves]

I'm probably a little late to the party, but I wanted to add my 2 cents worth for other people building systems. I built a system in my garage that followed the TP design very closely. It was a bit of a pain. The mainline is about six inch off the wall to make room for the up and then down for each of the drops. Painful or not, it has worked really, really well. The air at the drops is very dry. Never even a hint of moisture.

Some of that could be the area. Seattle does not have the high humidity of other place. My FIL lives near by. He did a system with a main line and simple T's to the drops. I used his system for just blowing off some parts. After five or ten minutes I had water dripping out of the air gun.

The TP Tools layout with the drops first going up, then down is proven over the decades for those who built it "old school" with black pipe steel. With all the rain in Seattle, that speaks well that you've got dry air with the TP layout.

This "hybrid" layout that OP has done is very flexible with all the unions, and the flex line is creative to keep things all straight. Overkill yes, but functional and safe for 50+ years. Only improvement he can make is flip the main line so T's go up and modify the drops accordingly.

Would be so cool if a black pipe manufacturer would develop a shaped piece that would go up out of T and back down to wall for the straight pipe of drop (ie the piece would be overly bent "shepherd's hook" shape). This would eliminate all those fittings to accomplish that shape.

 

[All]

Wow... what a fantastic thread!

I really appreciate MTW's insane attention to detail, sberry's at the end of the day bottom line nothing more is necessary experienced practicality, and the self justified earnest efforts of Strouty to try and do it right.

Erasing the ego, there has been a lot of excellent contributions here. This is my official subscription. Please don't let any feelings of being slighted get in the way of continuing the discussion. The points made by each, even though in disagreement, are made all the more educational because they are articulated so irrefutably, and yet are refuted just as well.

MTW, you invested a great deal of time an energy with your lengthy and detailed posts. I know how long that takes, as I have made a few lengthy posts myself, exceeding the 10,000 character count a several times. Thank you for your contributions! It is going to take me several reads to absorb all the points you so comprehensively covered, but I already feel indebted to you, and I'm sure others feel the same.

Sberry, you always find a way to bring us all back down to earth. Pinpricking our ideals with down and dirty get er done doses of get real is a good recalibration reminder, even if hard to accept sometimes.

Strouty, I have the same compressor as you do, and some of the same goals: to get rid of the moisture, to do it right, and to not shrink from the expense to do it right. I also have some of the same DIY problems that sberry talks about: Overdoing things... building a Roman Aqueduct to water a rose bush, when a simple garden hose would do the same job with more efficiency, flexibility, and less cost.

So, a great and valuable discussion indeed.

 

[Strouty]

I see by the thread date we are in to this a month. This is ok too. I am all for giving an atta boy for a good job, I get caught on occasion myself on occasion especially where I am trying to do for free or cheap.

But being a critic here a bit is fair, the op asked for opinions, the diy tends to overbuild, in this case it has added significant expense and time. Probably not an issue or a deal killer but something worthy of noting. If a guy approaches every job this way he is in the wrong game, if it is a great learning experience then its worth the price.

I am the OP, I started figuring this out when I started the thread, it did not take a month to do, it took two days and a lot of thought in between. I only had a little time here and there to try and get things done. The real experience was that not knowing what you need for fittings can be a real time waster. I think I made a total of four trips to the plumbing supply place, as well as a few to the local napa to get the right size fittings for my quick couplers. If I knew what I know now, this could have been done in a day with two people. I wasted a few fittings and I bought more pipe than I needed. I just figure I can use it in the future.

On another note, I started out thinking I would go with TP tools layout, but MTW had some good points and I wanted to try it out his way.

 

[Strouty]

Wow... what a fantastic thread!

I really appreciate MTW's insane attention to detail, sberry's at the end of the day bottom line nothing more is necessary experienced practicality, and the self justified earnest efforts of Strouty to try and do it right.

Erasing the ego, there has been a lot of excellent contributions here. This is my official subscription. Please don't let any feelings of being slighted get in the way of continuing the discussion. The points made by each, even though in disagreement, are made all the more educational because they are articulated so irrefutably, and yet are refuted just as well.

MTW, you invested a great deal of time an energy with your lengthy and detailed posts. I know how long that takes, as I have made a few lengthy posts myself, exceeding the 10,000 character count a several times. Thank you for your contributions! It is going to take me several reads to absorb all the points you so comprehensively covered, but I already feel indebted to you, and I'm sure others feel the same.

Sberry, you always find a way to bring us all back down to earth. Pinpricking our ideals with down and dirty get er done doses of get real is a good recalibration reminder, even if hard to accept sometimes.

Strouty, I have the same compressor as you do, and some of the same goals: to get rid of the moisture, to do it right, and to not shrink from the expense to do it right. I also have some of the same DIY problems that sberry talks about: Overdoing things... building a Roman Aqueduct to water a rose bush, when a simple garden hose would do the same job with more efficiency, flexibility, and less cost.

So, a great and valuable discussion indeed.

Good points, my ego has an ego sometimes.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Here's the direction I am going on my air system. It is a slow work in progress as time allows, as there are many other irons in the fire. This is a teaser picture untill such time as I can put together a thread of my own on the installation. Using multiple fittings on the up and over drops allows the drop to be placed vertical even though there is a slope on the trunk line. The fittings act somewhat as a universal joint. The standoffs are wood and masonite blocks screwed to the plywood walls. Drywall screws were used to hang the pipe sections until straps could be attached, and made setting the pitch easier. By not having the pipe right up in corners, the standoffs also allow for thermal expansion of the piping.

 

[Strouty]

Here's the direction I am going on my air system. It is a slow work in progress as time allows, as there are many other irons in the fire. This is a teaser picture untill such time as I can put together a thread of my own on the installation. Using multiple fittings on the up and over drops allows the drop to be placed vertical even though there is a slope on the trunk line. The fittings act somewhat as a universal joint. The standoffs are wood and masonite blocks screwed to the plywood walls. Drywall screws were used to hang the pipe sections until straps could be attached, and made setting the pitch easier. By not having the pipe right up in corners, the standoffs also allow for thermal expansion of the piping.

Thanks for posting pictures. What size pipe are you using? I figure the more info everyone has the better. The only suggestion I have so far would be to add a union to your up and over drops (on the tee), then you can take it down to add to it or change something with ease. I was going to add valves to my trunk line, but now that I have played with it, I don't think they are needed. I just shut off the valve at the compressor and open one of the drain valves on a drop, it lets the air out of the piping system really quickly. I actually wish I had not put the valves at the top of my drops, I may move them. I figure the system is a living thing, at least in my shop, and it will evolve as I learn what works for me.

 

[signcrafter]

Strouty, your system looks like overkill but that isn't always a bad thing and it looks good!

Air lines are like a lot of other things in life, there are a lot of ways to get the job done. Some prettier then others. Some work better then others. For years I just ran a simple hose off my compressor, it got the job done. Just like when I was younger I got a lot done with minimal tools. But as life goes on I've added things and improved things to make my life easier and better. Some needed and some just because. Some I thought I needed and later found out it wasn't needed but worked out pretty good anyway. I'm always "improving" my garage in some way or another.

Air lines are on my long list of to do. I have most of the pieces and parts besides the actual black pipe. Lots of unions and valves and a few regulators and filters. I have a smaller garage so one drop would probably be "good enough" but I will have a few and hopefully get some hose reels in the future. I don't want hoses running all over to get in the way. Besides once you start running a black pipe setup the cost per drop isn't very much at all. A Tee, a valve, a union, and maybe a few odds and ends. So a couple extra drops doesn't really hurt. In my opinion the more drops the better within reason. You don't need a drop every foot along the wall but at least one on every wall or in every corner is nice to have. Also I plan to put at least two hook ups on every drop so you can hook up two air hoses if needed. Cheap and easy to do and doubles your hook ups. Plus playing with pipe reminds me of my childhood out in grandpa's garage digging thru the drawer of pipe fittings and making my own contraptions screwing them together!

One thing I've done is use an older metal garden hose reel as an air hose real mounted by my garage door and have about 200' of hose on it so I can reach my whole driveway and just about anywhere in my yard. Is real handy at times.

Strouty, why two hose reals so close together?