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The VISES of Garage Journal

kbeitz

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Messages
103
Location
Pennsylvania
Lots of people con plane about changing the way antiques look.
Some of us like looking at the age of a tool and the marks of time.
But what it all boils down to is that the Vise is yours to do with as you please.
If grinding all the marks of time off is what makes you happy them go for it.
Your the only one that you need to make happy.
If I saw into one of my vises and I dont like the new look I'll weld the crack shut and peen it untill it blends in...
To each his own.
 
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ganymede

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Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
2,332
Location
New England
Yep, I've been pinged for removing RUST from an old tool because I somehow damaged it's "patina" For me, for tools, Rust isn't patina (There is just a little too much "Antiques Roadshow" effect going on since that show became popular)....

Indeed.
I've found that rust promotes itself and very few rusty tools stay at the same level of rust wether or not they are covered in oil or kept in a dry area. Although the latter helps a lot, they can still rust more.
I've theorized that its because its easier for moisture to collect on a rusty surface. So most of my tools get de-rusted.
 

jpickar

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Joined
May 21, 2010
Messages
964
Indeed.
I've found that rust promotes itself and very few rusty tools stay at the same level of rust wether or not they are covered in oil or kept in a dry area. Although the latter helps a lot, they can still rust more.
I've theorized that its because its easier for moisture to collect on a rusty surface. So most of my tools get de-rusted.

+1

John
 

oldldh

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Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
3,700
Location
Fairhope, AL
This Columbian 39 is listed on Ebay...

What do our resident vise gurus know about these...this one looks ripe for restoration, and at 91 pounds is light for a 7" jawed clamper...but it looks kind of nice for an almost monster...nearly 100 pounds isn't light...:headscrat:headscrat
 

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Provincial

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Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Messages
6,871
Location
Near Salem, OR
I have a soft spot for columbians, but compared to alot of other makers, they made a light vise

I have a couple of lighter-duty Columbians (a D44-M3 and a 3050) that I have abused a lot that have held up very well. I wonder if the larger industrial models are just as tough, even though they are lighter?

I haven't heard any complaints about the industrial Columbians being fragile.
 

EOC_Jason

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Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
11,388
Location
Bentonville, AR
I have a couple of lighter-duty Columbians (a D44-M3 and a 3050) that I have abused a lot that have held up very well. I wonder if the larger industrial models are just as tough, even though they are lighter?

I haven't heard any complaints about the industrial Columbians being fragile.

Columbians tend to be on the "lighter" side because their castings typically have hollow spots up in the jaw area. I think their iron must be more ductile than others because I've seen one Columbian that was beat to hell and instead of cracking the metal just mushroomed a LOT (more than you would expect)...
 

Filson

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Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Messages
1,218
Location
NE WA
Columbians tend to be on the "lighter" side because their castings typically have hollow spots up in the jaw area.

I seen that with my beat up Wilton bullet and was surprised to learn they do that. Prior - I had assumed all older vises were solid. Who else does this aside from Columbia and Wilton?

-Bill
 

silentpoet

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2011
Messages
795
Here is my new vise. A Prentiss 181 with 3 and a half inch jaws. Well really just one jaw at the moment. Need to fix it up. But at the price I paid I can afford to put some work into it. Please direct me to a good thread on vice restoration.
 

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flashman

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Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
273
Location
Niceville Florida
My C1 is coming along. I need to order a new collar because it was missing one of the hex screws and I don't see me being able to match them in my town. I also need to order swivel handles and eventually new pipe jaws. I decided to use rust-oleum hammered copper and I really like the color on this larger vise. The base is in the etank now because the entire vise had two or three different paint layers.
eqe9yvut.jpg

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autopts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
My C1 is coming along. I need to order a new collar because it was missing one of the hex screws and I don't see me being able to match them in my town. QUOTE]

Flash. That collar screw is a popular hardware size 10/32.
 

Wadeh66

Active member
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
32
Location
Wake Forest, NC
Does anyone have a recommendation for a thrust bearing/washer to place under the retainer collar of my Parker No 1? It has a little slop that I'd like to tighten up.
 

balane

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Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
2,996
Location
Pacific Northwest
Just picked up a 6" Parker that weighs in at 130 pounds. It's solid, just a little rusty. I have it in the electrolysis tank now, I'll post some follow up shots when it's done. This one I'm keeping for myself but I'll still take some tree stump photos. :) I've been looking for a larger vise that I like for quite a while now and I think I'm going to give this one a forever home.

These are the Craig's List photos. I always forget to take pre-cleanup shots.

.
 

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va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Originally posted by Silentpoet.-----Please direct me to a good thread on vice restoration.

---------------------------------------------

Outlawmws lays out the entire schematics/blueprint for the electrolysis bath on page # 193. An Excellent read.
 
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Filson

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Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Messages
1,218
Location
NE WA
Enough? No I don't lol. Eww south seattle, that's a bit of a drive + traffic for me. Great pick up bro! Hey - keep your eyes out for a small Reed with swivel jaw and base for me, like a 402 1/2 to 403 1/2. Been hunting for one.
 

balane

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Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
2,996
Location
Pacific Northwest
I got lucky it was on a Saturday so traffic was light. It was about 45 minutes each way for me so not bad. Definitely worth it, should clean up really nicely. For a long time I've wanted a large Parker, Reed or Athol and I'm certainly pleased it was one of those. Just posted my 4.5" Hollands that this is replacing.
 

Filson

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Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Messages
1,218
Location
NE WA
Yeah I seen your Hollands. How much did you pay for your new 6" if you don't mind me asking?
 

flashman

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Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
273
Location
Niceville Florida
Alright, last pictures pictures from me for now. Autopts clued me in to the size of screw for the Wilton collar and I had some on hand. Now I just have to let my base finish in the etank to clean it up and paint. Here is the vise together without base.
ru7ydu3a.jpg

ebabunej.jpg


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autopts

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Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
Just picked up a 6" Parker that weighs in at 130 pounds. I see a 69 stamped into it, not sure if that's the date of manufacturer or not. It's solid, just a little rusty.
These are the Craig's List photos. I always forget to take pre-cleanup shots.
.

One very nice score. That one might need a tree stump of its own. The last time I had one of those, it was carved into a wood top bench. If you notice at the bottom. Those old Parkers did not have a clean 90 degree fit at the bottom to the front of the bench. That's American steel at its finest.

Not to change the subject but I've had this old Record No. 4. Question? Does the slide come out of these normally? It travels to the full extension and stops. I've hit the top of the slide and sides with my belt sander. Are the tolerances that close? The second photo. Is that center piece that's angled part of the nut? Thanks in advance.



 

balane

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Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
2,996
Location
Pacific Northwest
Flashman, that looks great. Nice job, gorgeous.

Nick, I've been wondering how I'm going to tackle the job of cutting a wedge out of my workbench. I'll figure something out but once I do that I guess I'm married to this Parker. Worse things have happened.

Both of my recent Hollands gave me a really hard time getting the slide out. Just as you describe, once it gets towards the end of the travel things get tighter and tighter until it just doesn't want to move. I removed the nut on both and nothing changed. Ended up beating them out with a 1.5" brass drift. It almost feels as if the slide is wider towards the rear than it is in the front. I still don't know what caused it but at least they're finished. I've had two Records and both came out easily, like any other vise, so I can't give you any suggestions beyond beating the **** out of it. Good luck.
 

balane

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Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
2,996
Location
Pacific Northwest
Yeah I seen your Hollands. How much did you pay for your new 6" if you don't mind me asking?

He was asking $175 and I got it for $150. That's the most I've ever paid for a vise but he knew what he had and he had a few calls on my drive down. He was a cool old guy and honored our phone agreement thankfully. But I'm tickled to get a 6" Parker in great shape for $150. I'll sell that Hollands for around there and end up breaking even but with a larger vise. Hollands are great by the way, I would have been happy keeping it too.
 

ganymede

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Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
2,332
Location
New England
Both of my recent Hollands gave me a really hard time getting the slide out. Just as you describe, once it gets towards the end of the travel things get tighter and tighter until it just doesn't want to move. I removed the nut on both and nothing changed. Ended up beating them out with a 1.5" brass drift. It almost feels as if the slide is wider towards the rear than it is in the front. I still don't know what caused it but at least they're finished. I've had two Records and both came out easily, like any other vise, so I can't give you any suggestions beyond beating the **** out of it. Good luck.

Sounds like some one used the back of the slide as an anvil and over time it flared out. My Parker was like that until I passed a ******* file over it a few times on the top and each side. It didn't take much .
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,266
Location
The Badlands
Just picked up a 6" Parker that weighs in at 130 pounds. I see a 69 stamped into it, not sure if that's the date of manufacturer or not. It's solid, just a little rusty. I have it in the electrolysis tank now, I'll post some follow up shots when it's done. This one I'm keeping for myself but I'll still take some tree stump photos. :) I've been looking for a larger vise that I like for quite a while now and I think I'm going to give this one a forever home.

These are the Craig's List photos. I always forget to take pre-cleanup shots.

.

balane, assuming the bench top is wood. you can lay out the area to be cut out, setup a support board at an appropriate angle on the bench and once you set the depth on your circular/worm drive saw, carefully make the two side cuts, then make a bunch of cuts really close together between them. tap the cut sections sideways and they will mostly pop out. Then use a wide flat wood chisel to shave the remainder flat. done. (I notch wood to lap together or to cross link/fit them like this routinely)
 

Mark in Indiana

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Joined
Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
Does anyone have a recommendation for a thrust bearing/washer to place under the retainer collar of my Parker No 1? It has a little slop that I'd like to tighten up.

Any big box home improvement store should have them in their hardware section. They are generally stored in pull out cabinets. If that doesn't help, an industrial supplier should have them. I've purchased thrust washers and bushings at Menards and Rural King.
 

ZRX61

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Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
Not to change the subject but I've had this old Record No. 4. Question? Does the slide come out of these normally? It travels to the full extension and stops. I've hit the top of the slide and sides with my belt sander. Are the tolerances that close? The second photo. Is that center piece that's angled part of the nut? Thanks in advance.

Because the end of the slide is closed you have to knock out the pin that retains the nut before it all comes apart like a *normal* vise... other wise the closed end hits the nut & stops it coming apart.:eyecrazy:

Once the nut is loose, keep turning the handle so it comes off the end of the screw. Helps if the vise is upside down while doing this part. Just push the jaws closed to dislodge the nut & slide it towards the back of the vise. :thumbup:

Hope that made sense :dunno:

Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly :evil:
 
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cclfn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2012
Messages
308
Location
NW
Flashman, that looks great. Nice job, gorgeous.

Nick, I've been wondering how I'm going to tackle the job of cutting a wedge out of my workbench. I'll figure something out but once I do that I guess I'm married to this Parker. Worse things have happened.

Both of my recent Hollands gave me a really hard time getting the slide out. Just as you describe, once it gets towards the end of the travel things get tighter and tighter until it just doesn't want to move. I removed the nut on both and nothing changed. Ended up beating them out with a 1.5" brass drift. It almost feels as if the slide is wider towards the rear than it is in the front. I still don't know what caused it but at least they're finished. I've had two Records and both came out easily, like any other vise, so I can't give you any suggestions beyond beating the **** out of it. Good luck.

balane,

Nice job I saw that one this morning and was hoping one of you guys picked it up. :beer:

I got a Holland that is pretty rusty and has not been in the tank yet but it did not want to unscrew all the way which I assumed was the rust.

I saw a an old parker mounted on a nice wood bench and the owner had made a notched steel plate so he did not have to cut the bench.

Wes
 

autopts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
Because the end of the slide is closed you have to knock out the pin that retains the nut before it all comes apart like a *normal* vise... other wise the closed end hits the nut & stops it coming apart.:eyecrazy:

Once the nut is loose, keep turning the handle so it comes off the end of the screw. Helps if the vise is upside down while doing this part. Just push the jaws closed to dislodge the nut & slide it towards the back of the vise. :thumbup:

Hope that made sense :dunno:

Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly :evil:

ZRX61...Thanks a lot, I figured I missed something. Its going blue like most are and then I'm listing it.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Joined
Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
I had a little time tonight and decided to clean up my jaw inserts a little using a a very old mill ******* file. I didn't remove too much material, but I think they look much better now.

Before:
ed14cc82-6bb0-470b-a3ad-16e7b39bfab0_zpscabbef4b.jpg


After:
image_zps40e1def2.jpg

I know it's a little late and there have been many opinions about cleaning up the jaws the way that you did, but I would like to thank you for your idea. Most of my restorations, i leave the saw marks and dents to keep the historic charactor of the vise. However, I have a larger Montgomery Ward vise that is too toasty to be nothing more than a beater. With your idea, I can give this vise a lot of class. I'll post pictures in the near future.
 

Craptain

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Apr 18, 2013
Messages
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Location
Tampa Bay FL
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