srracer
Member
I should start by saying that the Wolverine flooring is an incredible product. However, since you rarely hear much from people who screwed up enough that they had to redo parts of their floor, I figured I'd take one for the team and relay what I did wrong and how I went about fixing it in case it helps anybody out. But I also feel like I have a bunch of suggestions that aren't in the instructions and haven't been talked about as much regarding the application, so I'll relay my whole process.
...So last spring when it seemed that Wolverine may not be selling to the public, I bought enough epoxy to do my ~800 sqft garage. It wasn't until 3 weeks ago where I was finally ready to be able to put it down.
The house is relatively new - the slab was poured about 15 months ago and for the most part, cars never stayed in there as it was mainly storage for motorcycles, mower, etc etc... (also the main reason I wasn't ready to do the floor until now).
This is my 3rd epoxy flooring job... I used the rustoleum stuff from HD for my old house about 5-6 years ago, and while our new house was being built I coated my parents' garage with Epoxy coat. The rustoleum stuff honestly wasn't too bad, but after 5 years, it was flaking up pretty good. The Epoxy coat was much better than the Rustoleum, but I still wasn't thrilled with the uncoated flakes (in retrospect - the Epoxy coat has gotten very badly stained from my parents tires, so I do think that they would be much better off with a clear coating). For what its worth, my background is in mechanical engineering.
So I decided to break the bank and go with the Wolverine - especially after seeing FFPL's results.
I pressure washed it, then acid etched it. Which leads me to suggestion #1: regarding the acid etching, IMHO, muriatic acid works the best. Dilute it 1:1 with water and have at least 2 gallons of diluted mixture per 100 square feet. If its a relatively polished newish floor, you will need closer to 4 gallons per 100 square feet.
When DHL finally arrived with my extra deco-flakes (more on that later), I got started. I used (1) 3 gallon container for the ~780 sqft of coated floor and split it into 3 separate sections, mixing about 1 gallon worth of mixed product per batch. I think this is particularly important for the first primer coat as the bondtite goes on thinner and it would be harder to evenly pour out the 3 gallon mix and then spread it properly.
I used a 16" window washing squeegee from HD to spread it around the floor section by section and used a brush to attempt to brush it into the grooves. I say attempt, because it really isn't thin enough to brush it into the grooves well enough to completely coat the inside of the grooves. Which leads me to my #2 suggestion: Don't bother bondtiting the expansion grooves before filling them with integraflex. It just stresses you out for your working time of filling the grooves with the integraflex. After working with the integraflex, I have NO doubts that it would bond just as well and it would have been much easier to do the integraflex first.
[to be continued]
...So last spring when it seemed that Wolverine may not be selling to the public, I bought enough epoxy to do my ~800 sqft garage. It wasn't until 3 weeks ago where I was finally ready to be able to put it down.
The house is relatively new - the slab was poured about 15 months ago and for the most part, cars never stayed in there as it was mainly storage for motorcycles, mower, etc etc... (also the main reason I wasn't ready to do the floor until now).
This is my 3rd epoxy flooring job... I used the rustoleum stuff from HD for my old house about 5-6 years ago, and while our new house was being built I coated my parents' garage with Epoxy coat. The rustoleum stuff honestly wasn't too bad, but after 5 years, it was flaking up pretty good. The Epoxy coat was much better than the Rustoleum, but I still wasn't thrilled with the uncoated flakes (in retrospect - the Epoxy coat has gotten very badly stained from my parents tires, so I do think that they would be much better off with a clear coating). For what its worth, my background is in mechanical engineering.
So I decided to break the bank and go with the Wolverine - especially after seeing FFPL's results.
I pressure washed it, then acid etched it. Which leads me to suggestion #1: regarding the acid etching, IMHO, muriatic acid works the best. Dilute it 1:1 with water and have at least 2 gallons of diluted mixture per 100 square feet. If its a relatively polished newish floor, you will need closer to 4 gallons per 100 square feet.
When DHL finally arrived with my extra deco-flakes (more on that later), I got started. I used (1) 3 gallon container for the ~780 sqft of coated floor and split it into 3 separate sections, mixing about 1 gallon worth of mixed product per batch. I think this is particularly important for the first primer coat as the bondtite goes on thinner and it would be harder to evenly pour out the 3 gallon mix and then spread it properly.
I used a 16" window washing squeegee from HD to spread it around the floor section by section and used a brush to attempt to brush it into the grooves. I say attempt, because it really isn't thin enough to brush it into the grooves well enough to completely coat the inside of the grooves. Which leads me to my #2 suggestion: Don't bother bondtiting the expansion grooves before filling them with integraflex. It just stresses you out for your working time of filling the grooves with the integraflex. After working with the integraflex, I have NO doubts that it would bond just as well and it would have been much easier to do the integraflex first.
[to be continued]
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