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Kellogg American air compressors?

188slo50

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Any body ever heard of them? Ive got a chance to grab an older one for cheap that need some work, wandering if there any good and worth repairing.
 
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Tim338

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I have a big one (60 Gal) made in 1946 and it's still going strong. Yes they are good. What are the issues with the one your looking at? and how cheap is it?
 
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188slo50

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He thinks it had a leak in the tank and I can get it for about $100. Its a 3 phase I think so not sure what Im going to do with that. Can really read any numbers on it except I think the model # is 8325A if that makes since.
 

mmouse

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It looks like a 332. That is a good one. Don't try to fix a leaking tank. But, the cost of a new tank and a 1 phase motor will be expensive. I would buy it for that price and be on the lookout for a cheap tank and motor 3-5 hp.
aircompeq.com/ka.htm
These run slow and quiet. At 600 rpm they crank out 20 cfm.
 

kams1973

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Kellogg-American air compressors are highly regarded. My first 2-stage unit was a 335. I regret selling it.
 
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188slo50

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It looks like a 332. That is a good one. Don't try to fix a leaking tank. But, the cost of a new tank and a 1 phase motor will be expensive. I would buy it for that price and be on the lookout for a cheap tank and motor 3-5 hp.
aircompeq.com/ka.htm
These run slow and quiet. At 600 rpm they crank out 20 cfm.


I can pull the motor off my other compressor maybe cause the cfm are to low but its a 5hp. Why not fix the crack in the tank?
 

larry_g

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I can pull the motor off my other compressor maybe cause the cfm are to low but its a 5hp. Why not fix the crack in the tank?

Pressure vessels (tanks) are a special case when it comes to welding and repairing. There is a lot of energy in a pressure tank and if it ruptures it can do so violently, to the point of exploding and doing serious damage to the surrounding area. Assume that the tank is going to have to be replaced.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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188slo50

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Well I put 60lb and its held it for about 6 hrs and still holding so Ill assume the tank is good. I did notice the pump wouldnt turn all the way over by hand so I tore it apart and it seems to have got water in it at some time and cause the walls to rust up at the very top. I dont see any pitting so im just going to run a brush down thru them and clean them up. Any idea of where to get the gaskets and Id like to redo the all the seals in the diaprahms while i got it apart. Any good place to get a cheap motor since I cant use the 3 phase and whats a good price to get rid of the motor for?
 
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188slo50

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Very bad assumption, read this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168453&highlight=hydrotesting And then maybe do a search on hydrotesting to get some other information.

lg
no neat sig line

How do you figure, if it was cracked when i put 10lbs of air in it I would here the leak. Air will escape with less pressure than water will so I figure Im safe with what I did. I know where the compressor came from and used it many times just didnt remember why they bought a new one till I tore it apart.
 

CNGsaves

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What country you in?? Would be good time to Update GJ Profile with your Country / State / City.

If Mexico or Afghanistan, then risk of tank rupture doesn't come close to daily death from shooting / bombing anyway.

But in civiilzed world, you'll want to hydro-test the tank so you (or some innocent bystander) doesn't get killed when the big tank blows at 150 psi!!

Rusty seam on right side of tank, plus the age of tank itself and apparent tough environment it's in, definitely warrants the hydro-test.

Heck I've seen 60 gallon oil-less Craftsman compressors on CL for $200 where you could trash the Cman compressor and use the KA instead.

Then again, you COULD build a Concrete (rebar reinforced) Bunker around the compressor since you don't want to have it tested ! :D
 
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188slo50

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The compressor has been inside its whole life and the rusty spot is cause the paint was scraped off. Ill look into testing it once have an idea what it will cost to get it up and running. If the testing is that important than there is no benefit to buying an older compressor.

Where can I get the best price on a motor? Anybody got one they want to trade for a 3 phase?
 

CNGsaves

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Which Country ?? State ?? City ??

The hydro test can be done yourself with a grease gun . . . read the GJ thread as it's very detailed. Cheap insurance.

No one's going to "trade" you their single phase for your 3 phase motor (see all the CL ads with guys in your same shoes trying to get rid of 3 phase motor). Use Google to search all CL ads across country to get feel for price of 5 HP motor:

. . . Google > > > > 5 HP electric motor single phase site:craigslist.org

Here's an AO Smith 5 HP single phase for $100 as an example:
http://mankato.craigslist.org/for/4043194344.html
 
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mmouse

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Ok... Ihate these forums that time out faster than you can type an intelligent response. Ill try this again in short form.

If you bought it, congrats. This will be a nice compressor. Your other motor is probably 3450 rpm, and these pumps were designed for 1725 rpm. If that is the case, then you will need a different pulley size. For a motor, look for a local electric motor repair/service. They may have a refurb' d motor for a reasonable price. Otherwise, a new Leeson 1725 rpm 5 hp motor can be bought for about $350. You can't get rid of a 3 phase motor unless it is less thanscrap value. To be continued......
 

mmouse

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Another source for gaskets and parts is pacific air compressor in portland.

My 2 cents on hydro testing.... Take it for what it is worth... I will NOT use a tank that has been hydro tested (my OPINION). (I know i will get hate mail for this). Here's why. If you overstretch a rubber band, when will it break? I don't know? Now if you fill an 80 gallon tank with an extra 640 pounds of water, then pressurize it to 300-400 psi, you may not make it leak now, but how much are you going to fatigue it? On the other hand, if it leaks now, then you know its junk. I don't have any better ideas for testing, other than sonic testing. Air is compressed, so when a tank lets go, logic says it will be violent.
 

shanker

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Another source for gaskets and parts is pacific air compressor in portland.

My 2 cents on hydro testing.... Take it for what it is worth... I will NOT use a tank that has been hydro tested (my OPINION). (I know i will get hate mail for this). Here's why. If you overstretch a rubber band, when will it break? I don't know? Now if you fill an 80 gallon tank with an extra 640 pounds of water, then pressurize it to 300-400 psi, you may not make it leak now, but how much are you going to fatigue it? On the other hand, if it leaks now, then you know its junk. I don't have any better ideas for testing, other than sonic testing. Air is compressed, so when a tank lets go, logic says it will be violent.

I don't seem to agree with your logic....I work in an environment that went we bolt up a Blow Out Preventer to a well head and begin drilling, all the individual rams are hydro tested and our lives depend on it...Texas Railroad Commission requires that BOP's are tested every 21 days or whenever it's broke apart....nobody worries about stress fatigue as it's not an issue. They're tested to between 10,000PSI to 15,000 PSI as well.
 

firebox40dash5

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Yeah, um, I don't think the tank really cares what the water used weighs. And as above, I don't think numerous safety organizations require hydrotesting because it's unsafe. Call me crazy.
 

kams1973

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I don't seem to agree with your logic....I work in an environment that went we bolt up a Blow Out Preventer to a well head and begin drilling, all the individual rams are hydro tested and our lives depend on it...Texas Railroad Commission requires that BOP's are tested every 21 days or whenever it's broke apart....nobody worries about stress fatigue as it's not an issue. They're tested to between 10,000PSI to 15,000 PSI as well.

Comparing 13 5/8"/10,000psi BOP to a 80-120 gallon air compressor receiver really isn't a fair comparison. However, I do agree that hyrdo testing receivers is a good idea. Especially if it is in unknown condition.
 

mmouse

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If the tank is questionable, I won't use it. Simple enough. There is no point to try to get it to blow, then use it anyway. MY opinion. If you feel comfortable putting a tank through this stress and then using it, it's your call. I'm talking about home air compressor tanks, not drill rigs.
 
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188slo50

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The tank is fine with 2 surface rust spots. I just need a new motor and a few gaskets to get it running.
 

larry_g

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Another source for gaskets and parts is pacific air compressor in portland.

My 2 cents on hydro testing.... Take it for what it is worth... I will NOT use a tank that has been hydro tested (my OPINION). (I know i will get hate mail for this). Here's why. If you overstretch a rubber band, when will it break? I don't know? Now if you fill an 80 gallon tank with an extra 640 pounds of water, then pressurize it to 300-400 psi, you may not make it leak now, but how much are you going to fatigue it? On the other hand, if it leaks now, then you know its junk. I don't have any better ideas for testing, other than sonic testing. Air is compressed, so when a tank lets go, logic says it will be violent.

Considering that an 80 gallon tanks has near 10,000 square inches of surface area inside the air pressure at 100 psi will exert a force of 10,000 pounds, 640 pounds of water isn't a big factor in the equation. And if you reuse bolts are you not concerned with the tension applied to them?

lg
no neat sig line
 

larry_g

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The tank is fine with 2 surface rust spots. I just need a new motor and a few gaskets to get it running.

If the tank is fine then why did you post;
I can pull the motor off my other compressor maybe cause the cfm are to low but its a 5hp. Why not fix the crack in the tank?
?

lg
no neat sig line
 
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