Question about Fluke FM/27 multimeter

[tweedlestan]

I just bought a Fluke FM/27 and I have one question about it. When it powers on, the entire LCD display "lights up", so to speak. You know, all of the digits and all come on at once.

However, in the first digit from the right, one of the seven segments isn't coming on.

This isn't normal, right?

If what I'm saying isn't clear I'll get a photo of the screen when it does that.

EDIT: PIC ADDED

 

[metaldad]

?
If what I'm saying isn't clear I'll get a photo of the screen when it does that.

 

[Hootbro]

Sure it is not the first digit on the left?

These are what they call 3000 count mulit-meters in that they will display up to 2999. So the top left segment will not be there since it can not display past 2 on the far left digit.

In case anybody has a smart comment on 2999 not being "3000" count, "0" is considered in that count also.

 

[zkling]

Off to grab a few..... BRB.

 

[tweedlestan]

Pic added, thanks in advance.

 

[Hootbro]

Pic added, thanks in advance.

That is normal. Mine does the same thing. That is why I said it will only display 2999 as a max value and that segment is not needed.

Here is a video of mine powering on.

 

[zkling]

Yea, yours is fine. Mine are the same way. Yours looks really nice, mind if I ask what you paid and where you got it? Make sure you do a fuse test real quick.

 

[tweedlestan]

Thanks guys!

zkling: I got it from a guy on ebay for $40 shipped.

How do I do a fuse test, by the way?

 

[zkling]

2 things

1.) I just took a pic, man talk about ninja skills needed.
2.) Why is your bezel color more grey? All of mine are a brownish

 

[zkling]

Thanks guys!

zkling: I got it from a guy on ebay for $40 shipped.

How do I do a fuse test, by the way?

Dang, that is a good deal $40. Was it the entire kit w/ leads, case, HV probe and manual?

Do you have the manual for it? It should tell you how to do a fuse check. You ohm out the different lead ports. Let me see if I can scan the manual for you.

 

[tweedlestan]

2 things

1.) I just took a pic, man talk about ninja skills needed.
2.) Why is your bezel color more grey? All of mine are a brownish

Mine is brownish too, my camera was in B&W mode for some reason.

Dang, that is a good deal $40. Was it the entire kit w/ leads, case, HV probe and manual?

Do you have the manual for it? It should tell you how to do a fuse check. You ohm out the different lead ports. Let me see if I can scan the manual for you.

It was just the meter with the regular leads. I sent you a PM with the details.

I don't have a manual for it, I'll find a PDF somewhere.

 

[tweedlestan]

Oh, and just to brag a bit I got that pic in one take.

Totally by accident, of course!

 

[zkling]

Mine is brownish too, my camera was in B&W mode for some reason.

I was wondering about that.

Here is a PDF for the generic 27. I'm not sure how exactly it differs from the military manual, but the fuse test #'s are the same IIRC --> page 23 describes fuse test.

http://www.icsgroup.ru/upload/iblock/2f9/27______umeng0200.pdf

 

[Hootbro]

I was wondering about that.

Here is a PDF for the generic 27. I'm not sure how exactly it differs from the military manual, but the fuse test #'s are the same IIRC --> page 23 describes fuse test.

http://www.icsgroup.ru/upload/iblock/2f9/27______umeng0200.pdf

The only difference is the case color is Yellow and does not have true RMS like the military version. Other than that, it is the exact same meter.

 

[tweedlestan]

I was wondering about that.

Here is a PDF for the generic 27. I'm not sure how exactly it differs from the military manual, but the fuse test #'s are the same IIRC --> page 23 describes fuse test.

http://www.icsgroup.ru/upload/iblock/2f9/27______umeng0200.pdf

OK, I just tested it and BOTH are reading OL. So, I assume both fuses are bad?

 

[zkling]

The only difference is the case color is Yellow and does not have true RMS like the military version.

Actually some of the yellow case ones do have true RMS. They are only marked on the backside though. Yea, super confusing. Good job fluke.

 

[zkling]

OK, I just tested it and BOTH are reading OL. So, I assume both fuses are bad?

Make sure the leads are contacting the side of the terminal, don't just put the lead straight in the socket otherwise it won't make contact. Hopefully you just aren't getting full contact.

 

[tweedlestan]

Make sure the leads are contacting the side of the terminal, don't just put the lead straight in the socket otherwise it won't make contact. Hopefully you just aren't getting full contact.

I just triple checked. Still getting OL.

Darn.

 

[tweedlestan]

Duh. I just opened it up, NO FUSES!

 

[redwrench60]

I find that most used meters have blown fuses. It's no biggie though, I got our parts department to start stocking Fluke 87/88 fuses.

 

[zkling]

Duh. I just opened it up, NO FUSES!

What? Serious? That is shady as $hit. PM sent. Just for reference, see attached pics. Sorry for the blury pics, camera is slowly dying.

I find that most used meters have blown fuses. It's no biggie though, I got our parts department to start stocking Fluke 87/88 fuses.

Yea, but if you have to purchase them on your own it kinda blows (pun intended). They ain't exactly super cheap.

 

[Hootbro]

Actually some of the yellow case ones do have true RMS. They are only marked on the backside though. Yea, super confusing. Good job fluke.

Those ones that are marked on the backside are labeled incorrectly. People have opened those up to discover the RMS processor is not there like it is on the FM/27 models. Even Flukes own published tech data for the yellow case 27's, do not list or show RMS as a stated feature.

Here is one marked Fluke 27/FM on the back:

Then once they pop the case, the RMS processor is not there. The chip should have "RMS" marked on the processor if it was true RMS capable like the true military model 27/FM ones do.