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Removing gaskets and cleaning metal surfaces

bcradio

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2mJps

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north central Mo
I use a cheap right angle air die grinder. Air is not a big problem beause it will not run or pull hard for very long. I wish i had gotten it when i first started out .
 

radgto

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Aug 22, 2011
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Royal Oak, MI
Hand gasket scraper for removing old gasket material.

I clean up metal surfaces using either files, sandpaper or roloc discs on a right angle die grinder depending on the job.

I used to use an electric die grinder before I had a pump style compressor at home and it worked well aside from getting really hot.

It's probably best to have all those in the tool arsenal to tackle any situation.
 

G_P

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Is it safe to go with a cheaper air die grinder?

Its not like a cheap one is going to grenade in your hand. The cheaper ones wont have the power of a good one and probably wont last quite as long. But for a homeowner who uses it occasionally a cheap one should be fine as long as you oil it before each use.
If you work in a shop or need to use it quite often then spending the money on a quality die grinder would be worth it.
 

radgto

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Aug 22, 2011
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Royal Oak, MI
Is it safe to go with a cheaper air die grinder?

Heck yeah, I put my HF right angle and cut off wheel through hell at work and both are at about 4 years old w/o an issue although the right angle is starting to make a lot of noise. The other mechanics at work use them too.

I did how ever have to return two of their straight die grinders before I found one that spins true, both had off center machining on the collet.

I'm not a HF cheerleader as I use mostly truck brand hand tools but the bang for the buck on HF's air tools is unbeatable.
 

csargents1546

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sberry

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Air scraper if its tough then wire wheel. Don't think the scraper is in there though.
 

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yaidunno

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Feb 10, 2011
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WI
If you're working on aluminium, please don't use a die grinder, you'll do more damage than good.

This is most often true.

Also, a roloc disk and a die grinder are not the proper way to clean up a cylinder head, aluminum or iron.
 

fxgmech

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Sep 8, 2013
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Upper midwest road salt zone.
This is most often true.

Also, a roloc disk and a die grinder are not the proper way to clean up a cylinder head, aluminum or iron.
^+2 Any place that abrasive grit will get inside an engine, trans, diff, etc the best method is a scraper. Spray on gasket remover can soften things up. Clean and slick is not as good as maintaining the original surface finish that helps hold the gasket clamped in place.
 

jethrob

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Nov 30, 2012
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I work with aluminum.

Generally I lay on the gasket remover(spray on) then carefully use a bristle roloc.

I was told by a 3M rep that they originally designed these for guys doing engine work to be able to remove the gasket without disturbing the mill marks.

The super scraper looks tempting!
 
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regguy1

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Dec 15, 2009
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On Mount Olympus with Zeus
^+2 Any place that abrasive grit will get inside an engine, trans, diff, etc the best method is a scraper. Spray on gasket remover can soften things up. Clean and slick is not as good as maintaining the original surface finish that helps hold the gasket clamped in place.

Good Advice Here.

Watch this GM training video about why engines suffer failures after repairs, roloc discs contain aluminum oxide and the particles will do serious damage
Well worth watching.

On cylinder heads / blocks etc. I use a hand scraper and then polish the surface with an oil stone wet with kerosene or WD 40
 

dellwas

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Sep 16, 2009
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Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Used to use a liquid gel gasket remover. It was made by Evinrude I believe. Paint it on with a paint brush, let set 20 minutes, wipe it off. Left the surface as smooth as a baby's ****. Don't know if it's still made or not.
 

kossuth

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Sep 16, 2012
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On aluminum Ls1 blocks with graphite gaskets I've had good success with of all things the gasket dissolver and a decent windshield scrapper. Granted I don't do this professionally so it takes awhile, but I would rather take my time vs mucking something up
 

toolaholic

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Jul 26, 2012
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PA
When I scraped the water pump gasket from the timing cover (aluminum) on a magnum 360 dakota r/t ,I used mayhew curved scrapers. They were decently sharp out of the box. Bought some beautiful martins that were the opposite pretty dull new. I sprayed brake clean on timing cover and the gasket material that was still on cover showed up really black. While the pieces of old gasket were wet w/ brake clean and black I scraped.
 

rshadd

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Dec 29, 2009
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1,598
Location
Doylestown, PA
I like the Wilde (#515) 1" gasket scraper. It's made in the USA and about $5 at HJE.
9482431058_89364c3358_z.jpg
 
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evintho

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Apr 6, 2006
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Santa Rosa, CA.
Been using this for years. No brute force, all ya gotta do is pull the trigger. Very easy and removes all traces of gasket material in seconds. $10 at HF!

 

fxgmech

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Sep 8, 2013
Messages
71
Location
Upper midwest road salt zone.
Not everyone should use air tools and I realize we got some real golden arms but we clean hundreds of gaskets with power.

Whether your gasket removal tool is powered by hand or air is not as important as avoiding introducing abrasive particles and, ideally, not altering the surface flatness or finish.

The reason for abrasive particle avoidance should be self-evident.

On most stock, unmodified components (which is all I ever work on now) the machined surface finish is an important part of the sealing function. A rule of thumb I use is the old gasket, sealer, etc must go but the stains can stay.

I use air die grinders and sanders with 3M pads or carbon brush, and sometimes even an air hammer with scraper blades but that's only for gooped up messes (but not where it may leave particles in an engine, etc). It's quicker for me 90% of the time to just knock off the old gasket with a hand scraper and wipe it down with brake cleaner.
 

Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
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Location
Marengo, Illinois
Whether your gasket removal tool is powered by hand or air is not as important as avoiding introducing abrasive particles and, ideally, not altering the surface flatness or finish.

The reason for abrasive particle avoidance should be self-evident.

On most stock, unmodified components (which is all I ever work on now) the machined surface finish is an important part of the sealing function. A rule of thumb I use is the old gasket, sealer, etc must go but the stains can stay.

I use air die grinders and sanders with 3M pads or carbon brush, and sometimes even an air hammer with scraper blades but that's only for gooped up messes (but not where it may leave particles in an engine, etc). It's quicker for me 90% of the time to just knock off the old gasket with a hand scraper and wipe it down with brake cleaner.

Exactly. A good Wilde scraper will take anything off in a few swipes. I had a ****** cover for a cub cadet nearly glued on, (idk if the last guy used epoxy with the gasket?) scraper + brake cleaner = success!
 
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