Need advice on concrete garage floor

[jdeck]

I am hoping to get some advice on my 20x20 garage floor. I bought my first house a little over a year ago and this is my first garage rocker. It has been awesome so far, but my biggest complaint about the house in general is the garage floor. I'm starting to get some estimates and I really want to understand how to have it done right (or right but on a budget) since I will be here for a while.

So far some contractors have come by and recommend either removing pieces of it and re-pouring, or simply jointing the old floor to a new repoured 3" slab with re bar. This appears to be the original floor from when the house was built in 1955. The cracks appear to be on the surface as the owners parked on the left side for almost 20 years with salt, dirt and water dripping off their car. The right side is in decent condition. I do not get any water in the garage.

My plans are to continue to put up insulation and sheet rock and have a nice flat and smooth floor coated and looking sharp. I have a vision for this garage (started on the back wall) and the floor has really put a halt to the project. I plan to continue to do all types of work on my cars and park the my daily in the garage during the winter. Also, notice that the driveway transition to the garage is the same elevation currently, which is really nice. Thanks in advance.

 

[nielvw]

Here is some useful information for your garage floor issue....if the attachment doesn't go through let me know and i might have to email it to you....

 

[jdeck]

Here is some useful information for your garage floor issue....if the attachment doesn't go through let me know and i might have to email it to you....

Can you PM me? I will give you my email. Thanks.

 

[jdeck]

Here is some useful information for your garage floor issue....if the attachment doesn't go through let me know and i might have to email it to you....

Turn on your PM's. I can't reply. Thanks.

 

[cityhick]

I had a similar situation with my floor. I took out the entry doors and garage door and then put foam insulation around the inside perimeter along the baseplate. I put plastic down over the old floor and poured four inches on top of it. I then had to adjust the headers over the doors and put new ones in. I went with a 9X7 garage door instead of the 16 footer because I rarely park in there anyway. The floor is almost two years old now and I don't have any cracking issues.

 

[jdeck]

I had a similar situation with my floor. I took out the entry doors and garage door and then put foam insulation around the inside perimeter along the baseplate. I put plastic down over the old floor and poured four inches on top of it. I then had to adjust the headers over the doors and put new ones in. I went with a 9X7 garage door instead of the 16 footer because I rarely park in there anyway. The floor is almost two years old now and I don't have any cracking issues.

Oh wow nice job. How much did you spend? I am really on the fence about raising up the floor since its completely level now and even with the driveway. Seems like it might take more work in the end and not be as functional. My most recent quote was $3200 to jack hammer out the old and lay new concrete if less than 6" thick and $4000 if current floor is more than 6". He also recommended 100% against laying more on top.

 

[ToocoolZ28]

My most recent quote was $3200 to jack hammer out the old and lay new concrete if less than 6" thick and $4000 if current floor is more than 6". He also recommended 100% against laying more on top.

This sounds reasonable to me and will probably give the best results.
That is what I would do.

 

[k p]

My house (also my first house) was built in '48, garage has original slab. My slab is doing the same thing, cracks, spalling, chipping up, some half-*** patch jobs here and there etc. Only exception is my garage is cinder block, but I do have an asphalt driveway like you.

I have briefly researched filling the cracks and spalled areas and then skim coating it with a repair product. I've also considered renting a grinder and giving it a go-over to give it a fresh surface.

If you're anything like me, you see this as a massive job and a very significant investment. I figure you should look into repair options rather than full out replacement.

Just my .02

 

[jdeck]

My house (also my first house) was built in '48, garage has original slab. My slab is doing the same thing, cracks, spalling, chipping up, some half-*** patch jobs here and there etc. Only exception is my garage is cinder block, but I do have an asphalt driveway like you.

I have briefly researched filling the cracks and spalled areas and then skim coating it with a repair product. I've also considered renting a grinder and giving it a go-over to give it a fresh surface.

If you're anything like me, you see this as a massive job and a very significant investment. I figure you should look into repair options rather than full out replacement.

Just my .02

You are correct, we are basically in the same boat. I also do see this as a huge project and investment. I'm a huge do it DIY'r, but I also know my limitations. I am also very hesitant about pursuing a short term fix (just my nature), but maybe I am naive regarding concrete. Do you have any links to the repair process and outcome? I also wonder how long something like that would last.

 

[k p]

Home Depot sells a pre-mixed bottle of self levelling "goop" that you can use to fill the cracks, pretty sure it's good up to 1/2" wide. If it's a deep crack, it says to pour it in layers so it cures properly. I bought a bottle of this stuff just this past weekend but I haven't used it yet.

There are many skim coat options out there and I'm still researching them myself but I've heard VERY good things. This stuff is designed to be used in very thin applications and can (reportedly) handle extreme point loads (such as load from using a floor jack). It's also very good at feathering out at the very edges of your repair area and not chipping up.

My plan is to fill the cracks first and then attack the spalling. My spalling situation looks pretty bad and I think I'll have to use actual concrete to repair those areas.

The one thing that I've read over and over is to clean clean clean. The repair areas have to be free of any oil, dust, dirt etc. before using any of this stuff.

 

[ConCretin]

A couple things to consider;

It appears to me that your garage structure bears directly on your slab rather than foundation walls so removal and replacement of the slab will require jacking of the structure.

If you go this route, be prepared to make improvements to the sub base. The deterioration of the existing slab may be related to an inadequate base.

Repairing the existing slab will be nearly impossible. You can buy all the crack filler and skim coat you want but it won't last long enough to pay the credit card bill.

That leaves an overlay as the last remaining option. It's a little risky due to the likelihood of cracks telegraphing through but the risk is manageable. I'd suggest at least 4" of depth and stout reinforcing to hold everything together if cracks do occur - #4's at 12" centers supported at mid slab would do it. You'll have to modify some headers and protect your framing from rot but I think this may be your best option.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Keep in mind that if you pour on top of the old floor, you're going to losing ceiling height and possible need to reframe the door openings.

 

[cityhick]

Oh wow nice job. How much did you spend? I am really on the fence about raising up the floor since its completely level now and even with the driveway. Seems like it might take more work in the end and not be as functional. My most recent quote was $3200 to jack hammer out the old and lay new concrete if less than 6" thick and $4000 if current floor is more than 6". He also recommended 100% against laying more on top.

For your garage you will need around five yards of concrete at four inches thick if you went the route I went. Concrete around here is around $100 a yard give or take a few bucks. Add in a couple hundred for other materials like wire/rebar, form wood, sealer, plastic,...etc. If you can find a finisher or two to come over to oversee and finish it and pay them a couple hundred bucks and get your buddies to do the grunt work for beer and sloppy joes you could have a new floor for around a grand. But as others have said, I had to raise up the headers for the doors and I did lose four inches of ceiling height. I had other issues for going the way I did. My floor was low and would flood with moderate to heavy rain. Money was a big factor. If I was going to go through a whole bunch of stuff to raise the garage and everything it would have been better to tear down and rebuild. My option may not be the best for you but I just wanted you to have the info so it might help with your decision. I can send you more pics of my floor if you would like. There is only one small corner of the finished floor in my previous post. I did all my own work with help from friends so the labor was free....minus beer and sloppy joes

 

[cityhick]

One other thing to consider is that at the time of the pour, my driveway was stone/gravel. I rented a mini ex to grade the driveway to the new floor level. I had an asphalt drive put in this spring.

 

[I void warranties]

what about skim coat or self level coat lay some "ditra" and lay porcilen tile?
this takes in account that op is in a freeze zone.

 

[I void warranties]

BUMP.. i want some input on this surface problem too.

 

[Jack Olsen]

If that's not your last house, and you're on a budget, and the only issue is the cosmetics of it -- look into RaceDeck tiles.

 

[jdeck]

If that's not your last house, and you're on a budget, and the only issue is the cosmetics of it -- look into RaceDeck tiles.

I honestly can't say if it will be my last house (Age 29), but we do plan to stay 10+ years... I've been researching and trying to think hard about the investment. I really want to have it done right but it's tough justifying the cost based on the fact that I am on a budget and it's more of achieving a dream garage right now rather than a dire need. The floor is functional, I can still use my creeper, jacks, jackstands, engine lift etc and it doesn't leak etc. I almost would rather just finish up the insulation, walls, shelving, add more lighting and live with everything being nice except the floor for a few years.

I did look into race deck and it's in the back of my mind still. I previous discarded the idea but I am now thinking more about it. If it was under $500 I might be more interested but I was quoted over $1000 for the 20x20. I do think the floor is flat enough and it would look awesome ( I would want a solid color to mimic a concrete or tiled floor) but it seems like it would bother me to do work on. I tend to work on my cars a lot so I really look for function and model my garages after a real mechanic shop (heyyy..kinda like yours Jack ). They sent me a 1x1 sample but it didn't really help me envision it on my floor. I am kinda OCD with cars and my garage and I just imagine it creaking and making noise.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you plan on staying there ten plus years, by all means redo that floor with some new concrete. I dealt with some piss poor concrete for too many years before I poured a new floor in my garage.

Scroll through my refurb thread if you want to see my floor.

 

[ZRX1040]

A friend of mine has the same situation in a 10x22 1 car attached. His solution was to patch the bad areas and then installed some heavy duty indoor/outdoor carpeting that he rolls up for the winter. Every couple years he will repatch if needed to keep it from degrading further. You could do the same and use rubber mat.

A 20 x 20 could be moved to another part of the yard in the future, aka onto a new slab once funds permit.

 

[jdeck]

If you plan on staying there ten plus years, by all means redo that floor with some new concrete. I dealt with some piss poor concrete for too many years before I poured a new floor in my garage.

Scroll through my refurb thread if you want to see my floor.

Wow, just went through your thread. Great work!! As mentioned, I know my limits and I'm not going to be doing any concrete work but you did a great job

A friend of mine has the same situation in a 10x22 1 car attached. His solution was to patch the bad areas and then installed some heavy duty indoor/outdoor carpeting that he rolls up for the winter. Every couple years he will repatch if needed to keep it from degrading further. You could do the same and use rubber mat.

A 20 x 20 could be moved to another part of the yard in the future, aka onto a new slab once funds permit.

As far as moving the garage, I might be hard to see but it IS attached to the house. The other thing is that the garage is in excellent shape structurally, so no need to redo it.

At this point I'm leaning towards not touching the floor for a little while, finishing the lighting, insulation, walls, shelves etc. When funds permit I will have it jack-hammered out and re-poured.

 

[jdeck]

Bringing this thread back. As I mentioned I would like to save up and do it right sometime in the future.

Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing the drywall on the sides? Would it create a huge problem to put the drywall up and have the floor redone later on? I would like to get that done since it could be a few years before I take the plunge on the concrete.

 

[adawil2002]

Have you thought of dying the slab a color? It adds that custom touch.
Dyed mine brick red. Increased the cost just a little bit. There are several colors to choose from. Found this link about dyes vs. stains.

\

 

[jdeck]

Have you thought of dying the slab a color? It adds that custom touch.
Dyed mine brick red. Increased the cost just a little bit. There are several colors to choose from. Found this link about dyes vs. stains.

\

Looks great!

Bump for an answer to my original question.

 

[6t7gto]

Your must have footers if it is attached to the house.
Go ahead and drywall it.

 

[DeadSock]

jdeck, have you thought about porcelien/ceramic tile?
In the future if you're cutting out slab or pour over, the tile demo isn't an issue.

I'd put backer up about 4"-8" along the walls and finish above as you see fit (drywall, osb, whatever).
On the pitted **** slab, get the cheapest ceramic tile you can (e.g. ~$0.40 sq/ft) and thinset it in, rim it with full or half tiles over the backer.

I'd guess you are looking at probably $500 in material.

IIRC, Jack Olsens slab wasn't much better ...

 

[BJR]

I have a 50s era slab and wound up removing and replacing the slab due to severe settling issues. My repour was ~$2800 but I did the removal and disposal on my own. As mentioned your structure is on top of your slab so you'll have to saw cut close to the wall before removing.

All that said I'd probably live with it if it was mine.



Bryan

 

[jdeck]

Your must have footers if it is attached to the house.
Go ahead and drywall it.

Yes, correct.

jdeck, have you thought about porcelien/ceramic tile?
In the future if you're cutting out slab or pour over, the tile demo isn't an issue.

I'd put backer up about 4"-8" along the walls and finish above as you see fit (drywall, osb, whatever).
On the pitted **** slab, get the cheapest ceramic tile you can (e.g. ~$0.40 sq/ft) and thinset it in, rim it with full or half tiles over the backer.

I'd guess you are looking at probably $500 in material.

IIRC, Jack Olsens slab wasn't much better ...

I have a 50s era slab and wound up removing and replacing the slab due to severe settling issues. My repour was ~$2800 but I did the removal and disposal on my own. As mentioned your structure is on top of your slab so you'll have to saw cut close to the wall before removing.

All that said I'd probably live with it if it was mine.



Bryan

Wow you did a ton of work!


Thanks for the feedback guys. Yeah it's a tough call to invest that much into the floor right now, but I really want to make some progress on the garage in the mean time. It made sense to me to finish up the walls but I wanted to get some feedback. I have a lot of plans for the garage. I was really just getting started but I sort of put everything to a halt to do my due diligence.

DeadSock - Any links to Jack's floor before and after? I couldn't find them. You've got me very very curious. The floor is structurally sound, it just got pitted because of time and the previous owners abuse. I can still work in there fine, it's just an aesthetic thing for me. The tile thing might be a great solution.

 

[DeadSock]

Jack discusses his floor in this thread
Yours looks more spalled where he had uneven cracked sections.