Another septic system topic. What to watch for when landscaping?

[honda_fox3]

The other thread got me thinking, what do I need to watch for while landscaping? We will be moving in soon (hopefully) and have a septic system. It may not be in use long as the city/county is trying to push for sewer system. Anyways.

While doing a sprinkler system, planting trees, putting in fence, putting in concrete patio and splash pad what do I need to know when working with the septic system? Obviously I'll pay attention when they install the tank and field so I have an idea of locations but how deep are these things generally? Is it ok to put concrete over the field or tank if I leave a way to access the tank for pumping?

Like the other thread, I am also new to septic systems so forgive my ignorance.

 

[jhelrey]

Tank is not the issue, it is the leech field. Really got to watch the weight when you drive over the tanks, leech field, etc.

 

[plumbstupid]

You would be better off not to pour concrete over the tank. If it fails and has to be dug up, it will cost you more.

 

[ez-duzit]

You cannot cover the leach field with concrete. I would arrange the planting in such a way as to identify precisely where the lines are located. Or set markers into the ground. Gravel drive/parking area. Or widely spaced pavers/grass.

 

[Bear]

Be careful of what you plant close to the leach field. Things like willow and arborvitae are notorious for invading and plugging pipe lines.

 

[honda_fox3]

Might help to know that the plan is for maple trees around the perimeter of the property and honey suckle elsewhere. Possible a grove of quaking aspen but that will be in the front yard. Then grass for the rest of the yard aside from the patio and splash pad which may be close to the tank and field.

 

[larry_g]

Be careful of what you plant close to the leach field. Things like willow and arborvitae are notorious for invading and plugging pipe lines.

That says it for me. I've fixed to many systems that have plugged with root wads. The leach field works some by evaporation so it cannot be covered. If I remember some of my county restrictions, you cannot put animals/pasture over the leach field. You also may have to set aside a second area for the next leach field. That said there are a few different kinds of septic systems in this country. Understand what your is and how it works. Sounds like your building new with a new system. Quiz your installer as to what needs to be done to maintain the system and what you can do to damage it. Like said in the other thread don't put anything in it other than human waste. All the kitchen waste should go to the compost pile, chickens, or the trash.

If you think the sewer system is going to be a reality and your building new then I would think a stub out toward where the system may be would be prevent some expensive retrofits to bring the sewage from the back of the house to the front.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[kamesama980]

+1 don't plant anything with deep roots near it. septic contents is like steroids for plants. If you have trees or tall bushes anywhere near it, you'll be dealing with clogs from roots getting in for the nutrients.

The house we lived in when I was little had a huge birch right over the leech field. Thinking back, I think the septic tank was more a holding tank to get pumped than a continuous flowing element like it's supposed to be.

 

[Clik]

40 years in the sewer and septic business.

Leach fields are generally shallow 2-3'. Thin walled perforated PVC. Don't drive anything more than a lawn tractor over them. But they treat waste better than the big sewage treatment plants. They should have air but I know of a large shopping center that uses lots of water and their leachfields have been working without a problem inspite of being 100% under asphalt. But generally speaking septics work better when they can get air. Waste in tanks breaks down anaerobically (without air) and aerobically (with air) in the leachfields

Septic additives are a waste of money. You add the best additive every AM after your morning coffee. Anyone that thinks they don't have bacteria in their tank even after pumping just imagine have a cut finger and sticking it in there.

If you have a Town Hall speak out against sewers. Septics work much better and much cheaper in the long run. Even a failing septic system doesn't do more than seep. On the other hand I've witnessed millions of gallons of raw sewage containg used syringes, sanitary napkins, used condoms, etc over flow into our waterways and beach areas.

Politicians like sewer systems and treatment plants because it creates make busy jobs and puts money in their big contruction buddies pockets building huge treatment plants.

Septic installers are usually small mom and pop shops with no political gain for politicians. A google of "sanitary sewer overflows" will shock you, and that's only what gets reported. Most overflows are not reported.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Clik has it right on the money ! Properly sized and installed a septic system will last more than your lifetime.

The only downside to septic systems is having adequate space for the leach field and soil that will perc. As mentioned, most building codes require you to have a designate "back up" area to case the primary leach field fails. You can plant tress here, but if you ever need use the area for a field, the trees will have to go.

 

[kbs2244]

The plan showing location and spacing should be drawn for file at your building department.
Get a copy of it.
Also take a lot of PICs while they are digging.

Then you will know where not to put the stuff other than grass.

 

[nbears747]

I am also having a house built with septic system here in Colorado -

I agree with everything that has been said, keep bushes and trees away. The leach plan will most likely not be on file until the house is completed. If possible, have the septic installer mark where everything is going to be so that your OK with it before it goes in. The leach is sized per the house, I was shocked at how much of my 1 acre it took up... 6400 sq ft, for a 5 bd. 3.5 bath house. Push the installer to put it where you want it, otherwise it will go where it is easiest for the installer.

 

[ez-duzit]

...it will go where it is easiest for the installer.

Not exactly.

Many locales require soil percolation tests and have well outlined regulations. A system must be designed specifically for the site's soil conditions. There is always concern for pollution, the terrain, ground water, storm runoff, your neighbors... It would surprise me if the septic sytem were not part of the plans approval process.

 

[honda_fox3]

If you think the sewer system is going to be a reality and your building new then I would think a stub out toward where the system may be would be prevent some expensive retrofits to bring the sewage from the back of the house to the front.

lg
no neat sig line

Already planning on running the line right to the road so it will be easy hook up down the road. Really it is only a matter of time so I might as well be prepared and not have to dig up my yard later.

40 years in the sewer and septic business.

Leach fields are generally shallow 2-3'. Thin walled perforated PVC. Don't drive anything more than a lawn tractor over them.

Hmm good to know, by small yard tractor how small are we talking? I was planning on using my ol mans compact tractor for my landscaping.

The plan showing location and spacing should be drawn for file at your building department.
Get a copy of it.
Also take a lot of PICs while they are digging.

Planned on this. Pics are friends. I'll also take some measurements from the corner of the house or something also.

 

[6768rogues]

The sun does a lot of the work in a septic system. Anything you do to keep the sun away will be detrimental to the system.

 

[flippa]

Clik has covered it quite well, real good advise.

It is good that you are making provisions for the future sewer system, but don't hook up if you don't have to. A working septic system is much cheaper than hooking up to and paying the monthly fee for the municipal sewer.

Lawn tractors are ok. If the old man's tractor is a larger one, drive around the system. Keep all vehicles & heavy equipment away from the entire system. You can crush or settle the lines, tank & d-boxes and compact the soils around and under the field if you drive over it. Compacting the soils around the system will drastically reduce the life of the field.

Keep all the plantings away from the system. I recommend to people that nothing but grass should be planted over or surrounding the field. Trees and roots love septic fields & components. They will often find their way into the tanks as well if there are any cracks.

This may be getting off topic a bit, but be careful what you put into your new system. Additives are a waste. I always recommend against garbage grinders/disposals; if you put one in, everything is going to the tank and the grease is bad for the system. Toss food scraps, coffee grounds and all grease in the trash, not down the drain! Feminine products are bad. Many household cleaners are bad. Drain cleaners are bad.

Paint is real, real bad; do not clean out brushes in your sinks!!!! I have personally inspected many brand new systems that immediately failed because the paint contractors were washing out their equipment in the new house. Something in the paint does not allow the biological digestion to kick off in a new tank, and solids immediately start flowing out to the field and clog it up. It is also bad for established systems as it will kill off the bugs in the tank. No paint down the drain!!!!

Abuse it and it will be a very expensive repair. Treat it well and it should outlast you.

Some light reading for you; it outlines how to maintain your system

http://www.nesc.wvu.edu/pdf/WW/publications/pipline/PL_FA95.pdf

EDIT- I just read through the link I posted. Inspecting the system one a year is excessive. Every three to five years is fine as far as I am concerned as long as you are not throwing too much stuff at your system.

I know each system is different due to loading, but what schedule/timeframe do you recommend to your clients Clik?

 

[honda_fox3]

Clik has covered it quite well, real good advise.

It is good that you are making provisions for the future sewer system, but don't hook up if you don't have to.

This may be getting off topic a bit, but be careful what you put into your new system. Additives are a waste. I always recommend against garbage grinders/disposals; if you put one in, everything is going to the tank and the grease is bad for the system. Toss food scraps, coffee grounds and all grease in the trash, not down the drain! Feminine products are bad. Many household cleaners are bad. Drain cleaners are bad.

Paint is real, real bad; do not clean out brushes in your sinks!!!! No paint down the drain!!!!

It sounds like it will be required for everyone to hook up but who knows, we will see.

Food will be a bit of a change as we are used to using the disposal, same with feminine products. We use baking soda and vinegar for drain cleaning so that should be ok yes?

No paint got it. Hopefully being a new house we wont be painting for a while unless my wife gets a wild idea for the kids rooms.

Thanks for all the info all. So the old mans tractor is a farmall b series. Weighs in at 3200ish lbs. Not ok? I was really hoping to cut down my work load on landscaping.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Push the installer to put it where you want it, otherwise it will go where it is easiest for the installer.

Where I am at the installer has no say in where a septic leach field will go. We have to hire a soil professional, only 4 certified at the time, to do soil borings. They give the results to the health department and they tell you where, what type and IF you can even have a leach field.

Our soil is so poor around here many have to install off lot discharge systems. Systems that were ok'd for installation have failed bacteria counts at the discharge point at the first annual inspection. I know people whose system has "failed" for multiple years since it was installed.

Putting stuff over the tanks/field like pavers, concrete, swimming pool etc is a no-no in our area.

Swing by your local HD and ask for some septic information, tell them that you are looking at homes in the area. No need to pop up on their radar, yet.

 

[kamesama980]

Thanks for all the info all. So the old mans tractor is a farmall b series. Weighs in at 3200ish lbs. Not ok? I was really hoping to cut down my work load on landscaping.

While you could probably get away with it, I'd put that on the too-heavy list. I've driven over my field with my 2800lb truck (before I knew exactly where it was) to no ill effect but that's not to say I'd tempt fate.

 

[Clik]

Too many variable to predict how often to pump but contrary to what most think, it's the floating scum layer of soap and grease that usually causes a blockage. Seldom does that much sludge accumulate to cause a problem.

A friend of mine used to hold an annual party of fifty or so people which would overload his system. So, we started pumping it annually the day before the party. That gave the drainfield a rest and air which helps digestion and it gave him 1500 gallons of capacity before the level rose to the drainfield.

I pumped my septic tank at about five years and it didn't need it. Next time I went twelve years and it didn't need it. But there's only my wife and myself, we don't have a disposer, throw parties (at the house) and are on high ground.

People that cook alot, have teen aged girls, do alot of laundry, have high ground water, throw parties or have heavy clay soil may need it much more often.

Since it's usually the scum layer that gets you, take a hoe and slide it under the scum layer and pull up. If you can lift a chunk you need pumping. Look at the outlet Tee or Baffle. The cause of most failures is the scum layer floating up over the Tee or Baffle. You can build up feet of sludge but only a few inches of scum layer.

Some systems have two tanks. Many more have two chambers. Check both. If you only have cleanouts they are probably in the lids. You can't do a 100% pump job from cleanouts and I've seen many tees broken by shoving the pump hose in blind. Don't blame the pumper. He's trying to work blind.