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Removing black oxide from tools?

TimDaToolMan

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Mar 14, 2013
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536
Been having good results with the electrolysis tank. Thing is, it leaves the tools black. This coating easily scratches, and then it makes the tool look crappy.

Any easy way to remove it?
 
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SignedUpJustToSeeThePics

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Aug 25, 2013
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Southern Cal
I believe the black left by EvapoRust is carbon; not black oxide. EvapoRust will remove any oxide from iron (Black/Red) or any of the specialty finishes like bluing, Parkerizing, Zinc Phosphate, and Browning.

If you really have Black Oxide on tools; that forms as a result of heavy rusting, I would leave it; it's a pretty tough coating. Perhaps add a coat of wax to prevent red rust, but really just leave it alone.

To clarify the real black oxide is stuff that's not easily removed with a wire wheel. That's what I am arguing to leave; EvapoRust will remove that in short order; but a wire brush should leave it on.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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The Badlands
the black oxide an E- tank leaves is NOT bonded well to the base metal, and is for practical purposes more like carbon the a true oxide.

Fine wire wheel and call it a day.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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16,939
Black oxide is the industrial name for "bluing". It is a hot chemical dip oxidation process. I usually strip with either glass bead or chemical (phosphoric acid, naval jelly, vinegar) depending on what the person whats for the final finish.

One of these days when I have nothing better to do I want to high polish blue a wrench. Why, just because. :lol_hitti
 
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Steven67fr

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Sep 7, 2010
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Gilbert
Outlaw is right, the black finish left be electrolysis is different from a true industrial finish. I use a fine wire wheel or scotchbrite pads on a buffer to remove the black left be electrolysis... unless it's on punches and chisels, then I usually leave it as it leaves a nice factory look and just buff the surface with the name stamped in.
 

Craptain

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Apr 18, 2013
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Tampa Bay FL
The black finish you are seeing is a result of a problem with the chemistry you are using. I don't recall what you are lacking, but someone on here knows. I think it is something nasty like cyanide. If the chemistry is right you should get perfectly clean finish.
 

SeattleKent

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Sep 30, 2011
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Redmond, Washington
I'll start a piece de-rusting in the electrolysis tank. After a few hours I pull it out and scrub lightly with a scotch brite pad. I do like a minute per piece. Back in the tank. Repeat this a few times. When finished with electrolysis there is sometimes some black iron oxide still on the piece. Scrub again. If any iron oxide is left I put in evapo-rust for a couple of hours.

Leaving in Evapo-rust for a couple of days starts turning things black. A couple of hours is not a problem.
 

CWP1616L

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Aug 31, 2012
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USA
Simple Green will take the black oxide off no problem. I found that out by accident one day. Just soak your sockets in Simple Green for about 24 hours and your black oxide will be gone.
 

ptschram

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Sep 8, 2006
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Location
Churubusco, IN
Frank Lee has the right answer.

My dad and I had a gunsmithing shop in the late 80s, early 90s. As I owned a testing lab, the bluing was pretty easy for me as I could buy the chemicals in bulk ad had a place to do it.

With regard to the electrolysis, do not use cyanide, that is only necessary if you are stripping gold and even then, a mild salt bath is fine. For electrolytic stripping, I used sodium carbonate, but bicarb is fine as well and leaves a nice finish. Also, remember, only use enough voltage for it to start bubbling, don't just crank it up.

Industrial electrolytic strippers allow for control of both voltage and current to selectively strip and set the rate of material removal. I have (and will admit to ) left stuff in the stripper too long and come back to find foamy metal, or worse, nothing!
 
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