Large workshop on floor joists?

[clcartwr]

I've seen many smaller sheds built this way but is this process feasible to use on a larger workshop? I'm looking into a separate building for my woodshop (~24x24). I think it is just more comfortable working on wooden floors and most woodshops I've seen recently are concrete floors covered with plywood which doesn't seem very cost friendly. Thinking of laying a block footer and a few center supports with 2x10 floor joists on 16" centers. I know 90% of the houses built in my area are done this way......Anybody else here done this? Pictures would be helpful.

 

[leadfootloon]

If your going to go 16 on center I would use 2x12's Douglas fir so there is no spring in the floor.also you will want a center beam so you can over lap tails in the center.your shop is only as strong as the footing you put it on never be cheep on this part. It all really depends on what you will be working on and the load of your projects. Hope this helps.

 

[Steevo]

. . . most woodshops I've seen recently are concrete floors covered with plywood . . . .

Really?
Why would anyone cover a concrete floor with wood?
I'd much prefer a concrete floored wood shop.

 

[keelan]

Why would anyone cover a concrete floor with wood?

Wood floors used to be quite common in metalworking shops, where the difference between a wood floor and a concrete floor is significant when it comes to a part or piece of tooling being accidentally dropped -- a wood floor is much more forgiving. Those wood floors were often constructed out of end-grain-up "bricks" of wood laid on top of a concrete floor.

 

[A_Pmech]

The first step to making this decision would be what kind of floor loading do you need?

If you plan on the typical unisaw / small planer then a residential floor should be fine. On the other hand, if you like heavy commercial / industrial woodworking equipment, a more substantial floor will be required.

 

[kamesama980]

The first step to making this decision would be what kind of floor loading do you need?

If you plan on the typical unisaw / small planer then a residential floor should be fine. On the other hand, if you like heavy commercial / industrial woodworking equipment, a more substantial floor will be required.

That was the first thing that came to my mind. I do mostly cars but light woodwork as necessary so that woudln't work for me. If you just have light woodworking tools (up to a few hundred lbs max) then you're golden.

 

[kbs2244]

You will need to install cross braces from joist to joist.
Same spacing as the joists.
You will be making multiple boxes.

Heavy tools will need “runners” going from foot to foot to spread the weight across multiple joists.

But the warmth of wood will beat even rubber cushions on a concrete floor.

 

[7th Kahuna]

Really?
Why would anyone cover a concrete floor with wood?
I'd much prefer a concrete floored wood shop.

My grandfather's shop had a concrete slab floor with wood sleepers and maple tongue and groove flooring laid over the top. It was of course easier on the tools, but more importantly is was easier on my grandfather. Standing for hours on that wood floor was much easier on his body than standing on concrete.

Wood floors used to be quite common in metalworking shops, where the difference between a wood floor and a concrete floor is significant when it comes to a part or piece of tooling being accidentally dropped -- a wood floor is much more forgiving. Those wood floors were often constructed out of end-grain-up "bricks" of wood laid on top of a concrete floor.

That is exactly what we had in my high school wood and metal shops.

 

[zcar751]

What is your end game? Its hard to give advice without knowing what you plan to do in the "shop". My wifes shop has wood floors, but she works on stained glass. I would have no problems turning in to a wood shop, but I wouldn't think of parking a car in it.

 

[nolimits76]

I know you plan to use as a wood shop, but if things change in the future or you sell the property, it would be a good idea to design so you can support vehicles. Concrete seems like an easier and less expensive solution, but with the proper design I'm sure you can make a wood floor like you described that is just as capable. One advantage is you aren't spanning 10' off the ground. I'm guessing 1' or less.

Anyhow, for a normal wood shop, I don't see how it would be a problem. My last house I designed so the upstairs would carry a pool table. Below was my living room, about 19' x 19' clear span. The builder used wooden I-joists and 3/4" decking as the floor system. If I didn't require the clear spans, I feel pretty comfortable we could have used something more common.

 

[rieferman]

I agree with wanting a wood floor in a wood working shop for the reasons noted above - easier on the body, warmer, looks cool, more forgiving for dropped tools or parts.

That said, I would probably lean towards a concrete floor with a sleeper/wood floor topper for the sake of versatility and rock solidness. If you go this route, there's no need to use mechanical fasteners to hold the sleepers down - some dabs of liquid nails along with the entire mass of the system will more than sufficient. And taking this approach allows you to undo the work at a later date without needing to patch the floor.

 

[fxgmech]

I've seen many smaller sheds built this way but is this process feasible to use on a larger workshop?...

You can make it work. About 30 years ago I did some exploring through the Allis-Chalmers complex in West Allis, WI a few years after it went bankrupt. They made wood floors work big time.
The machines were all gone by then and most of the industrial buildings were being deconstructed. They had some multiple-story factory buildings, some with a brick-paved ground floor, and an upper story or three built of brick walls supporting wood spans and brick columns. Then hefty floor boards layed over that.
I recall signs warning of "floor load limit: 900 lb/sq ft" or some such, and some really big clean spots on those wood plank floors. It seems like quite a few dedicated people paid down their mortgage while time-testing those wood floors.
If you want a live floor that flexes under your feet, wood is gonna flex. Concrete not so much. But spills will clean up nice.

 

[Garage Dog]

I've seen many smaller sheds built this way but is this process feasible to use on a larger workshop? I'm looking into a separate building for my woodshop (~24x24). I think it is just more comfortable working on wooden floors and most woodshops I've seen recently are concrete floors covered with plywood which doesn't seem very cost friendly. Thinking of laying a block footer and a few center supports with 2x10 floor joists on 16" centers. I know 90% of the houses built in my area are done this way......Anybody else here done this? Pictures would be helpful.

Is using joists and wooden decking feasible for a wood shop? Certainly

It just has to be properly designed. As mentioned above, think of all the multi-story factories and warehouses built around the country with wooden joists and decking. Granted they didn't use 2x12s and 3/4" decking, but you get the idea.

If you just want an idea, there are various load calculators on the web that will give you live load, dead load, deflection, etc.

Google, "floor joist load calculation" and you will enough reading for an entire evening.

If you have money to have someone figure it out for you, an architect or a structural engineer could give you exact specs in short order.

Good Luck