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Oil for sharpening stones?

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fozzy

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Joined
Apr 15, 2011
Messages
236
Location
Florida
A custom knife maker I know recommends regular old mineral oil that you can get at any drugstore for a few dollars. No need to spend a lot on fancy oil. As it is his livelihood, I followed his advice and have not been disappointed using it on Arkansas and black surgical stones
 

Hogtown

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
41
I agree with the use of mineral oil on hard stones - it works well. On the coarse carborundum stone I use a mix of 75% 30 weight & 25% Kerosene.
 

Adam.C

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Jan 29, 2013
Messages
1,490
WD-40 on fine natural stones, drug store mineral oil on everything else. The goal is to fill the stones' pores to prevent metal from building up and stopping the cutting action. Soapy water also works. I buy WD-40 by the gallon and apply it with a plant sprayer. Works well.
 

ecally

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2011
Messages
82
I use WD40 or 3-in-1. The 3 -in-1 is a little thicker. I didn't like the smell of the aerosol used in WD40, if you get it by the bulk then that wouldn't be a problem.
 

KMScott

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Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,643
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
I use Lamp Oil, when I use to build injection molds I have a pan that I kept all my stones in and found lamp oil had a no smell and would not change over time. My stone container is still fresh after 14 years of little use.
 

JohnMcD348

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Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
614
Location
Lakeland, FL
Mineral Oil, 3-in-1, Gun Oil, Olive Oil. Any of the light oils are decent for use. Many have other elements in them that are particular for the purpose they are intended for. When I'm sharpening, I use whatever light oil I have around.
 
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Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
WD-40 on fine natural stones, drug store mineral oil on everything else. The goal is to fill the stones' pores to prevent metal from building up and stopping the cutting action. Soapy water also works. I buy WD-40 by the gallon and apply it with a plant sprayer. Works well.

WD40 seems too thin to "fill the pores." I use it because I always have some on the truck and find myself sharpening on the job more than maintenance sharpening. Light oil works good on the bench but rinsing the stone with brake cleaner or any solvent and re-oiling really gets the thing cutting aggressively.
 

flippin

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Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
740
Location
Montreal - Ottawa
In an overabundance of caution, be sure what kind of stone that you have first. With the recent popularity of Japanese water stones you want to be certain that you have an oil stone if you plan on using oil. The premise of either lubricant (oil or water) is to transport the filings (stone dust and steel dust) away from the pores of the stone to maintain the aggressiveness of the surface. Once the pores become clogged much like used up sand paper, they become "finer" in texture and their ability to remove material. If this happens I would recommend a long soak in a solvent (soapy water for water stones, or paint thinner for oil stones) or better yet, a long soak in an ultrasonic cleaner. This of course will revitalise the stones surface. If the stone has become grooved and no longer flat, lapping it against another similar sized stone will help "true" the face. For the purpose of lapping I generally do it under the running water of a tap.

With all of that said, I agree with the others that any fine oil will serve the purpose of transporting the ground media away from the surface of the stone. I have also thinned my oil with kerosene/paint thinner with great success in the past. But I no longer use oil stones as they have all been swapped for water stones.

Good Luck,
 

larry_g

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Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,893
Location
oregon
I use Lamp Oil, when I use to build injection molds I have a pan that I kept all my stones in and found lamp oil had a no smell and would not change over time. My stone container is still fresh after 14 years of little use.

X2 on this. A stone soaked tends to wash out the detritus from the inside instead of carrying some of it in as the stone soaks up the fluid just applies to the top.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,320
Location
The Badlands
The FDA requires the use of Mineral oil (Butchers/meat cutters...) as it's food safe; I'm 99% certain the honing oils you see sold by the different knife sharpening and manufacturing companies follow suit.

Cheap, effective and safe...
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Very stone dependent. Personally I'm a water only guy. If you choose to use oil, mineral oil is the one to go with. Just a note though. Once you go with one, you should really stick with it for that stone and not apply the other. :beer:
 

spotco2

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Joined
May 18, 2012
Messages
1,050
Location
NW Georgia
Grandaddy always just used spit. It was cheap and available. It worked for him for 90+ years and has worked well for me and my father also.
 
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