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My 32x40 automotive storage/workshop

ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
Hi All,

I've been lurking on this board for a couple years reading all the great ideas people have incorporated into their garages, reading all the regrets of people who built and later realized what they should've done and tried to take advantage of the collective knowledge up here. I'm a car guy and wanted a nice place to store and wrench on my '70 Chevelle and my dad's '63 Corvette, which basically stays at my place. Dad also has '95 Mustang that he cruises around in during the summer, and I need to store that too over the winter.

In August 2013, I finally broke ground for my new 32 x 40 pole building. Original design was to be 32 x 48, but my township only allows for 1280 sq ft of accessory building, and my variance request was denied. I also have a height restrictions (can't average more than 15 ft, I think), so to make sure I had enough inside height for the lift, I chose to use scissors truss. The downside is I have no overhead storage, but that's fine for me, as my house has a large basement.

I had an architect draw up the plans. It was originally going to have a footer foundation and stick walls with a lean-to. After getting some estimates, I decided to remove the lean-to and go to a pole construction. I did have the walls studded out with 2x6 so that I could do full insulation.

One of the other big design decisions was 1-door or 2-door. I ultimately decided on two doors for a couple reasons. First, I wasn't sure if I could the size door I wanted in a single door. It would've needed to be 20 feet wide and that just didn't seem to be commonly available. I was also worried about having a potentially crooked approach in between the lift posts. Also, having 2 doors allowed me to put a post in between to give the building a little extra racking strength. I ended up with 2 9x9 doors.

The other key thing I did was to put another door on the back of the building. It probably didn't need to be 9x9 like the front doors, but thats what got drawn. I wanted to make sure that I didn't get a vehicle stranded in the back if I had a project on my lift for a while. Another plus of this is the ventilation, as the doors are on the east/west sides of the building. It gets a nice breeze through it during the summer with the doors open.

Enough blah blah for now.. I know everyone loves some pictures.

-Dave
 

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ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
Somewhere around this point in the construction, my GF & I left for a week in Maine. I remembered reading about other people taking vacations in the middle of their builds and thinking "who does that??" Now I know.. :) Trip plans were made before construction started, and I got a later than anticipated start. Life happens.

More pictures..
 

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ChevelleFan

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Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
I managed to water damage my phone while on vacation (motorcycling in the rain, water got into my pocket and to my phone), I surely lost some pictures. But, I came home to a sided/roofed building. Next up was electrical, and getting some doors put up.

A couple of my friends stopped over and I had them pull their vehicles in to see how 3 larger vehicles would fit. The white pickup is mine, and I don't think we'd be able to close the doors with it nose-to-tail with the Avalanche. Remember in the first post how I said I originally wanted 48 feet deep instead of 40? Anyway, I figured this was a worst case scenario.

The original plans called for 9 overhead light fixtures but the electrician talked me into these 4 high-output units and they work very well. I had considered putting a couple skylights into the south slope of the roof (left side when viewed from the front) but there came a point where I had to start trimming costs.

-Dave
 

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ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
Once the doors were up, I could finally close the building and moved the cars inside. It's funny, after the concrete was poured, I was standing on it, trying to visualize the building, and it just seemed small. However, with the building being up and the two most important cars inside, it seemed pretty -- dare I say it -- big. I know, they are never big enough, certainly this one isn't. But it's not small, either.

My GF bought me the Craftsmen two door cabinet that she found on sale at the Sears Outlet store. Not sure why it was marked down, we couldn't find anything wrong with it. But it's a pretty cool piece with shelves in the door and pegboard holes on each side to hang stuff.

-Dave
 

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ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
THE LIFT

The biggest reason I built a new building was so that I could have a lift. I worked in a real service station back in the late 80s/early 90s when I was in HS and college and had first-hand experience with how awesome they are. They just make everything easier. When I had the plans drawn up, I had my eye on the Atlas 9KOH, and ultimately, that's what I bought. $1500 + $200 shipping.

After finding out about Greg Smith Equipment on this board, I decided to order from them. I had gotten a few emails from my dad and uncle suggesting that I google them, as there were some negative customer service complaints mentioned. I know you can get that with any company, but I decided to double check, as you can't just pop this thing in the back of the truck and take it back if there's an issue.

I can happily say that I had no such problems. I called them, ordered it, with the only request being that it NOT be delivered on the following Tuesday, because my guy wouldn't be there to receive it. They just delayed shipping it for a couple days, which suited me fine.

In reading around here, I had seen several comments about the installation instructions sucking really bad. In truth, they're not terrible. The only complaint was with the pictures of the wiring, because the pics are black and white, and they don't really talk about which color wires go where in the text. We figured it out without much trouble.

There were 4 of us doing work, my dad and uncle "supervising," and a couple friends popping over to check on the progress. With a couple trips to the store for some washers to shim with, hydraulic oil, and a trip to a friend's for a 2nd ladder, it took us about 5-5 1/2 hours to install. We didn't lolly gag, but we didn't bust *** either.

We got it installed without any issues. It's awesome!! I totally love it. I've come the conclusion that lifts are cheap -- its the building to put them in that is expensive.

-Dave
 

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ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
looking nice. whats the distance between the overhead doors?

Thanks! The door on the lift bay is a high-lift, so I can have the door open even with a car fully raised. The post between the doors is pretty small, 24" max, I think. I just measured and between the two door tracks is 23".

-Dave
 
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justin1795

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
442
Location
blue grass IA
i enjoyed this post. my hoa restricts me from steel siding. they said i could do a pole barn but it must be siding and shingled. i have a few questions if you dont mind.. what were you finding on the pole barn cost even with studding it vs stick built. also what are your wall heights?
 
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188slo50

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Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
643
Location
Virginia
Looking to the same building as well and very nice with the high ceilings. Who is the company that made the building and what was the extra cost for vinyl siding instead of steel?
 

BuickFarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2006
Messages
1,415
Location
Athens, Georgia
NICE build!!!! Thanks for posting the lift information as I too am considering GS for my lift. I'm in the planning stages of a new build now and am wondering why you went with 9 ft high doors instead of 8 ft? Also, those are some manly drain grates. First question is why did you feel the need for the drains, and secondly, where do they drain to? And how did you slope the concrete into them ie from where and at what grade.
So pictures of the truss installation got lost I presume. :-(
Look forward to hearing and seeing more. Nice Chevelle btw!!!
 
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ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
i enjoyed this post. my hoa restricts me from steel siding. they said i could do a pole barn but it must be siding and shingled. i have a few questions if you dont mind.. what were you finding on the pole barn cost even with studding it vs stick built. also what are your wall heights?

Wall height is 10'. The building itself (no concrete floor, no utilities, no garage doors, just a shell) was around $34k for materials + labor. I may have paid a lot in labor cost, but once the poles were set, the concrete guys came and poured the floor, and then the building went up *quick*. I used an Amish builder and these guys didn't fool around.

-Dave
 
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ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
Looking to the same building as well and very nice with the high ceilings. Who is the company that made the building and what was the extra cost for vinyl siding instead of steel?

There wasn't a company that made the building. I had plans drawn to my spec and I got quotes from a few different places for a completed building. Steel siding was never an option for me. It's not common around here, at least for buildings in residential areas.

-Dave
 
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ChevelleFan

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
18
Location
NE Ohio
NICE build!!!! Thanks for posting the lift information as I too am considering GS for my lift. I'm in the planning stages of a new build now and am wondering why you went with 9 ft high doors instead of 8 ft? Also, those are some manly drain grates. First question is why did you feel the need for the drains, and secondly, where do they drain to? And how did you slope the concrete into them ie from where and at what grade.
So pictures of the truss installation got lost I presume. :-(
Look forward to hearing and seeing more. Nice Chevelle btw!!!

Honestly, I don't remember why I had the doors made so tall. I probably wanted to make sure I could back a trailer or anything large in there. It's probably a little overkill.

I put drains in because I wanted to be able to wash cars in the winter and I didn't want to have to have the doors open to drain the water out. I don't plan on using too much water out there, though. With the ground on my lot being *very* flat, drainage was actually one of my larger problems. The site was built up with gravel and the drains just drain into the yard behind the building.

I'm not sure how to answer your question about the concrete sloping. I do remember the concrete guy saying it was a little tricky, because I wanted the area for the lift as flat a possible.

I've had the Chevelle since 1990, when I was a junior in high school. It's always been my hipo-street/drag-racer. Its a 20/20 car. It really needs some paint and body work, as I've only ever done mechanical work to it since I've owned it. Currently has an EFI 406/700r4. Should easily be low 12s, but I'm hoping for high 11s.

-Dave
 

bowtie1972

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2008
Messages
71
Location
yuba city
after you put in the lift, toolbox's and a work bench
not much room left. my shop 30x36 ( steal ) I thought it would be
big enough, I wish it 40 x 60, WAY TOO LATE NOW
 

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