air compressor help

[StreetDreams]

Hi all. I have a quick question. We got a new fab workshop and put it behind our main shop, we want to run a air line from our main compressor to the new fab shop so we are going to run a line in a trench with the electrical lines so I was wondering if anyone could tell me the best air line to use. As mentioned it would be buried underground, if someone can post a link to something that would work for me. I like using Amazon as I am a "Prime" member there because I am a college student so I get better deals, and free 2 day shipping, so if someone knows a item at amazon that would work for me, please help me out.

Thanks
Rich

 

[luvmyglockfou]

I really don't think you are going to find anything at amazon, especially prime eligible. What you are referring to is pipe, not your standard flexible air hose. HD, Lowes, Pipe supply company is going to be where to look for this. Just reference the other threads on here talking about exactly what you are looking to do. Good luck.

 

[mayday0017]

Man I would probably just buy a roll of Pex and use that for underground. It would be cheap & quick and won't have any leaks... Oh and you could buy it on Prime if you wanted

 

[pattenp]

I'd use a combination of copper and PVC or just copper for the whole run. Copper for above ground and PVC for below ground. Also provide a drain box for draining water that will collect in the line below ground.

 

[StreetDreams]

Man I would probably just buy a roll of Pex and use that for underground. It would be cheap & quick and won't have any leaks... Oh and you could buy it on Prime if you wanted

So you think something like THIS may work? If I were to use this should I bury it inside like pvc aswell?

 

[GarageWrench]

How about this? http://www.rapidairproducts.com/maxline.asp

 

[G_P]

Copper. Or galvanized steel.

 

[pattenp]

How long of a line will this be from compressor to fab shop?

 

[StreetDreams]

How long of a line will this be from compressor to fab shop?

It will be underground for 30ft and then 5ft +/- into each building so in total thevline will be approximately 40-50ft in total.

 

[Denwad]

bury a 50ft pvc 3/8ths hose?

 

[ZRX61]

 

[wdrumheller]

In my opinion, it would be best to bury a stretch of 2" or 3" diameter PVC pipe, with easy access on both ends. Then, push through through that a stretch of 3/4" pex tubing with your air pressure inside. You can't imagine how many things you'd like to run through that pipe in the future, and its' great to have access to a through-way for lines of various types.

If nothing else, use pex for your air lines. If it doesn't see sunlight it will last a long time.

If you give yourself access to put new line in, or modify your lines using a PVC pathway, you will thank yourself.

 

[stonesfan68]

Since it is only a 30-ft. run I'd suggest running a galvanized pipe inside of a larger PVC pipe. That will last for a long time.

Technically you could get away with PVC as long as it is buried and the exposed part of the run is done in galvanized pipe, aluminum or copper and transition to PVC underground.

 

[Fixnair]

After many years working with compressors I can't tell you how many times I have found underground pipes leaking and they complain their compressor does not keep up any longer and they want me to fix their compressor.
I would recommend schedule 80 black iron pipe. Reason being, you are probably going to drive vehicles over the buried pipe and believe it or not that flexes the pipe and will crush plastic pipe. If you live in a cold climate water will condense in the pipe and freeze in the winter causing lesser pipe to break.
Schedule 40 pipe is standard pipe, schedule 40 is extra heavy.

 

[StreetDreams]

Not really sure what this post was for, believe it or not, not everyone knows everything about it all. I signed up with this forum because I thought it would be a awesome place for advice, feedback and suggestions for me and my new business. Yes, I run a business that require a garage but that doesn't mean I was a pro at it. I am a motorcycle designer and entrepreneur (college was design, and now finishing up business), not a mechanic, I pay people to do that lol, and ya I could just bother them about it, but I would rather they be working on things that pay the bills and try to figure this out on my own (with research and quality feedback). By the way, thanks all for the help so far.

Thanks,
Rich

 

[All]

One potential reason why this thread may appear as if we are "going to war" is due to several suggestions to use "galvanized steel" or "galvanized pipe". While galvanized materials may offer more corrosion protection, they are not good for compressed air systems.

Galvanization works by virtue of the sacrificial zinc coating. Key word: Sacrificial. The zinc that is sacrificed ends up as white stringy residue in the air lines. It fouls tools and air lines, and is difficult to remove.

There is a reason why professional, industrial, and commercial organizations spend thousands more on purpose built aluminum tubing systems for compressed air. If galvanized pipe were acceptable to be used, there is no doubt that companies would make prevalent use of it to save money. But they don't, because the damage the floating zinc byproduct makes to the systems served by the air costs more in repair and remedial action than the installation of more expensive piping systems.

Even black iron is preferred over galvanized. Yes, black iron may corrode faster, but it doesn't contaminate the air system with zinc sluff. Looking for patterns among the best practices of the military, manufacturing, medical implementations, and many other engineered and approved installations of compressed air systems, one will not find any galvanized piping involved.

However, one can also see quite a few DIY home and small service shop air systems using galvanized pipe. Naturally, the choice of which pattern to emulate is up to you.

 

[Modifieddriver]

I have a 100' run between shops. I dug the trench "from hell" for electric, weighed my options and went with 1" schedule 80 PVC well casing pipe.

I initially used threaded metal couplers. Mistake, they leaked even when retightened and using ample Teflon tape. I cut them out and used slip fit glue couplers. No leaks.

I end capped the system. One cap I drilled and installed a tire valve. Pressurized to 100 psi and rechecked after 12+ hours. Lost about 10 psi. Good enough so that if the compressor was left on overnight it wouldn't run itself to death.

Then I completed the burial. So far so good. If the PVC explodes underground, so be it. Then we go with plan B.

 

[sberry]

How much compressor are we trying to use? A 3/4 tubing will run a couple men in a body shop easy, several plasma cutters. 30 ft is a short run. I like a hose,, leave a place a guy can open the valve on occasion to blow any condensate out.

 

[stltikn]

Suggest you run 1" or 1 1/2" Schedule 80 underground and 1" copper above ground with silver soldered connections. Don't use regular soldered connections as they can seperate. DO NOT use PVC above ground. Do not use galvanized at all. If you use black iron, wrap the underground portion with 2 mil PVC tape and you could put it in a schedule 40 PVC sleeve. Make sure you install accessable water drains at low spots and set up a plan to use them. Ball valves work well. Backfill your underground trench with at least 2" of sand around piping, jetted to eliminate voids. Pressure test system before backfilling to check for leaks. What you're looking for is a permanent trouble free system. When doing this work, extend your intellect to achieve that goal.

 

[coljar]

How about this? http://www.rapidairproducts.com/maxline.asp

^^^^This, in 2" schedule 40 conduit.