Anyone buy loctite by the case?

[Vinko]

Anyone buy loctite (or other brand, like Saf-T-Lok) by the case? Looking for a good online or catalog vendor.

I'm using both red and blue and I don't remember my source, but was paying about 80-something a bottle I think for the one, and I got the price down a little on the other.

Thanks for your suggestions,

Vinko

 

[eschoendorff]

Dayum! Just how much of that stuff do you use? I bought a large bottle about 2 years ago and it is still half full....

 

[dxdexter]

A whole case! You must own a whole fleet of Harley Davidson's At $25 for 1.2 US oz (36ml) for the blue stuff made by Permatex, I can barely afford one bottle.

 

[Merkava_4]

I have to say, I like this thread title.

 

[ImportTuner]

They are too expensive to buy a case and since they have a 2~3 year shelf life, they'll expire before I get a chance to use it ...

 

[PAToyota]

I use the sticks. I've had the current one for a few years and still working my way through it. Very handy when you are under the vehicle and have to do things one-handed.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I bought a 50ml bottle of Loctite 243 about a month ago and i've only used it a couple times. My friend tells me work he goes through the same sized bottle in about 2-3 weeks maintaining a fleet of diesel trucks and plant machinery. The bottle set me back forty-something dollars, i don't want to even think about the cost of a case of it..

 

[goodfellow]

define "case" -- I've seen cartons of 12 sticks on e-bay go for less than $25

If you mean CASE -- like a few dozen cartons, that can get super expensive; and would likely be enough for your grand kids to use.

 

[jimvannoy]

One bottle lasts me several years.

 

[l_bilyk]

I buy it by the case, but for resale

 

[cruiser808]

Not to steal the thread, but have you ever tried to break a fastener on red Loctite? Just recently I had to change out a leaking heater valve on a 307cid. It's in the back of the engine, so it's tight quarters without removing the the hood.

Well, we're talking a 1-1/4 hex so I try to do it the "right" way by using my 1/2" drive Bonney flare nut wrenches. NO dice. Finally, I get medevial on the valve and cut it up on the two side connections. Then I grab my 24" Snap-on breaker bar with a Proto impact socket and go to town. Now I'm a big guy, but it took some serious strength to break the connection. My point is, red Loctite is incredible tough stuff and Snap-on is the best tool when it comes to full-on nasty work.

 

[Vinko]

Not to steal the thread, but have you ever tried to break a fastener on red Loctite? Just recently I had to change out a leaking heater valve on a 307cid. It's in the back of the engine, so it's tight quarters without removing the the hood.

Well, we're talking a 1-1/4 hex so I try to do it the "right" way by using my 1/2" drive Bonney flare nut wrenches. NO dice. Finally, I get medevial on the valve and cut it up on the two side connections. Then I grab my 24" Snap-on breaker bar with a Proto impact socket and go to town. Now I'm a big guy, but it took some serious strength to break the connection. My point is, red Loctite is incredible tough stuff and Snap-on is the best tool when it comes to full-on nasty work.

Well, think about this: try breaking the red loctite that's been put on a hex bolt that's flush with another surface, and for which the bolt and the female end are machined to very strict tolerances. Now that's a pain in the ***. And sometimes impossible without destroying it.

 

[Vinko]

define "case" -- I've seen cartons of 12 sticks on e-bay go for less than $25

If you mean CASE -- like a few dozen cartons, that can get super expensive; and would likely be enough for your grand kids to use.

Well, by case I mean 12 bottles, yes. I don't remember the size, but it's the largest one that we've been able to get from a supplier. Bottle's about 7 inches high and 3 inches wide at the base. I think it's more than 50 ml (as mentioned above).

We go through a case each of blue and red maybe every month. Two months at the most. One of the things I'm trying to do is "inventory control" and purchasing.

We do light manufacturing, assembly and distribution of steel and cast-iron finished products.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Not to steal the thread, but have you ever tried to break a fastener on red Loctite? Just recently I had to change out a leaking heater valve on a 307cid. It's in the back of the engine, so it's tight quarters without removing the the hood.

Well, we're talking a 1-1/4 hex so I try to do it the "right" way by using my 1/2" drive Bonney flare nut wrenches. NO dice. Finally, I get medevial on the valve and cut it up on the two side connections. Then I grab my 24" Snap-on breaker bar with a Proto impact socket and go to town. Now I'm a big guy, but it took some serious strength to break the connection. My point is, red Loctite is incredible tough stuff and Snap-on is the best tool when it comes to full-on nasty work.

My friend uses lots of red Loctite on the crank pulley bolts on some big commercial diesel engines. Takes a big 1" impact to remove them.

Well, by case I mean 12 bottles, yes. I don't remember the size, but it's the largest one that we've been able to get from a supplier. Bottle's about 7 inches high and 3 inches wide at the base. I think it's more than 50 ml (as mentioned above).

We go through a case each of blue and red maybe every month. Two months at the most. One of the things I'm trying to do is "inventory control" and purchasing.

We do light manufacturing, assembly and distribution of steel and cast-iron finished products.

That's a lot of Loctite..

 

[nissan_crawler]

we have 1.5" landing gear pins held in with red loctite. Heat that stuff up first instead of reefing on it. Work smarter, not harder.

 

[PAToyota]

As NissanCrawler states (and shown below in Loctite's documentation - you did read the directions, didn't you) you heat up red Loctite to remove it.

Loctite® Threadlocker Red

• OEM specified as 271
• High temperature, high strength for heavy duty applications
• Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (9.5mm to 25mm)
• Locks studs, bushings and large fasteners against vibration loosening
• Strengthens slip and light press fits
• Removable with heat and hand tools

 

[Lightning]

How much heat is necessary for red loctite? I usually use a low temperature heat gun or hair dryer for heat source because I work around dangerous gasoline fumes that could explode if exposed to a flame.

 

[firerescuetool]

I use clear fingernail hardner instead of Loctite.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

How much heat is necessary for red loctite? I usually use a low temperature heat gun or hair dryer for heat source because I work around dangerous gasoline fumes that could explode if exposed to a flame.

I just squint and shield my face with one hand.. Screw Health and Safety, we do things the way natural selection intended.

I use clear fingernail hardner instead of Loctite.

Whatever works for ya'. But we aint all that way.







Just kidding!

 

[cruiser808]

Well, think about this: try breaking the red loctite that's been put on a hex bolt that's flush with another surface, and for which the bolt and the female end are machined to very strict tolerances. Now that's a pain in the ***. And sometimes impossible without destroying it.

Ouch! that's gotta hurt.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Well, think about this: try breaking the red loctite that's been put on a hex bolt that's flush with another surface, and for which the bolt and the female end are machined to very strict tolerances. Now that's a pain in the ***. And sometimes impossible without destroying it.

We do it all the time on airplanes, they don't have anything that isn't tight tolerance. Never had a problem.

 

[cruiser808]

How much heat is necessary for red loctite? I usually use a low temperature heat gun or hair dryer for heat source because I work around dangerous gasoline fumes that could explode if exposed to a flame.

Yeah, what he said.

 

[Elroy]

I use clear fingernail hardner instead of Loctite.

You have got to be kidding.

Then again I guess it takes all kinds of Elroy's to make the world go round and crash in a ball of flames when that **** fails. Leave the finger nail polish in the girls room.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Yeah, what he said.

I just use a heat gun cranked up.

You have got to be kidding.

Then again I guess it takes all kinds of Elroy's to make the world go round and crash in a ball of flames when that **** fails. Leave the finger nail polish in the girls room.

Exactly what I thought. What's wrong with using a product made for the job?

Sure, you can wipe your *** with pine cones and it would be cheaper, but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[Elroy]

Sure, you can wipe your *** with pine cones and it would be cheaper, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Elroy just spit a good Bourbon drink right onto his monitor and key board. That was Damn funny and most Excellent! Thanks

Time to go clean up now

Later

 

[Vinko]

We do it all the time on airplanes, they don't have anything that isn't tight tolerance. Never had a problem.

Well, you're more obviously skilled than we are. Even after heating it up, we have, on occasion, a problem unscrewing the hex bolt. We use an IR gun and either proto or snapon hex sockets. Sometimes we strip the bolt. Maybe it's the quality of the bolt, though they are grade 8.

I'll try to post a pic, when I can. Or try to do it again. Maybe I'm not doing it right.

 

[Vinko]

I have to say, I like this thread title.

gratuitous snapshot of loctite, including an older bottle that I had sitting around. Found in same area that K-D torque wrench!

 

[Vinko]

So we're still going through 5 bottles every two weeks. Of the Red. We got the price down to $60 something. We're _covering_ (almost drenching) the damn bolt and the female threads with the stuff. My father insists this is necessary, though the loctite people don't recommend it in their literature. These parts, however, get dropped from several feet all the time, so maybe there's something to it. It's all American made parts with very good tolerances. My father insists that because he's a skilled machinist, he knows better than me that this much loctite is necessary. I find it best to listen to him.

 

[Junkman]

The last time I bought a case of 12 of something that I thought that I would get a lot of use out of, I didn't and I still have 11 of them left.. Now I am too old to even need them, but they are too old to be trusted any longer...

 

[Vinko]

The last time I bought a case of 12 of something that I thought that I would get a lot of use out of, I didn't and I still have 11 of them left.. Now I am too old to even need them, but they are too old to be trusted any longer...

I remember a store down the street from me, in my youth, had 96 pcs per case.

 

[nissan_crawler]

So we're still going through 5 bottles every two weeks. Of the Red. We got the price down to $60 something. We're _covering_ (almost drenching) the damn bolt and the female threads with the stuff. My father insists this is necessary, though the loctite people don't recommend it in their literature. These parts, however, get dropped from several feet all the time, so maybe there's something to it. It's all American made parts with very good tolerances. My father insists that because he's a skilled machinist, he knows better than me that this much loctite is necessary. I find it best to listen to him.

Yeah, can't figure out why you're having trouble with it.

 

[rcm296]

hahhahah , what he said^^^
I am currently in the mining trade and we have tons machines, that are exposed to extreme abuse, vibration, impact etc, etc. couple drops are more then adequate, loctite red is so tough, we actually avoid it in some cases, to avoid "headaches" in further maintenance applications(parts we know we are gonna have to change on reg basis).
I also did machine building for years , some machines thousands and thousands of bolts, neverwas told wewern't putting enough on them. bottom line 1-2 drops is plenty, those sticks are nice and convenient as well