Construction question, adding a bump-out?

[bluesman2a]

Hello all,

I've been considering adding a bump-out on my shop. I'd like to add an additional 10' wide bump-out all the way accross the back of the shop, with a shed roof. This was part of the original plan, but had to go on the back burner due to $'s.

Original build-thread is here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9617

Here's the current floor-plan:

Pictures of possible site:

The question:
Is it possible/practical to put the roof on now without concrete foundation (think timber framing, with piers) and set it up to pour a foundation and frame the walls/enclose it later? I'd like to get the cover on, but I'm not ready yet to spend the $'s for concrete or put the plumbing stubs in for a bathroom down the line (which I want).

Any thoughts here? Things I should consider?

Note: yes, I know there are no stairs for the loft, we've been holding off putting them in until we get the rear portion of the building figured out.

 

[Bevis]

I see it being built like a pole barn for now. You've got the garage door there, so the rest of the garage wouldn't be open to the elements. I saw go for it.

 

[Namocsid]

Sounds reasonable to me. Perhaps just put gravel down under the new space.

 

[Sundowner]

If you're going timber frame, then auger your post holes and place the posts for the roof framing. I did this with my garage and I had no floor slab until everything else was done.

One question I have for you: how are you planning to get from the main garage out to the shed-bump out area? I assume you're going to do a 36" door and have it as a seperate room? If you're planning on having it clear open to the rest of the garage, you will probably have some ugly framing and foundation retrofits to deal with.

 

[bluesman2a]

One question I have for you: how are you planning to get from the main garage out to the shed-bump out area? I assume you're going to do a 36" door and have it as a seperate room? If you're planning on having it clear open to the rest of the garage, you will probably have some ugly framing and foundation retrofits to deal with.

Well two parts here: on the "new bay" obviously there will be the existing roll-up door, on the "old bay", I'll frame in either a 36" or double walk door into the existing wall for convenience and another pass door to the exterior.

In addition to those, I'll probably put another exterior garage-door on the outside of the rear wall when I'm all said and done, so I can continue to have a pull-through on that side also for ventillation.

I see where you are going with the question, and it makes sense, but ideally, I want to have this space as SEPARATE from the shop space. This is the area I want to put in a machine room, clean room, and bathroom, so I want to be able to isolate it from the general crud in the rest of the shop space.

 

[Namocsid]

My first thought was that your wife shouldn't allow you to build any more shop space until you've filled the first one.

 

[bluesman2a]

My first thought was that your wife shouldn't allow you to build any more shop space until you've filled the first one.

Well in that case she would agree in a heart-beat. I still have a lot of stuff that is in our attached/house garage, I'm sure she would like to see things a little cleaner in there, but she can get her car in so she doesn't complain much.

 

[KMR Construction]

Pour some sonar tubes and go nuts. When it comes time to do the foundation build a temp wall and rip the footings out

 

[1320stang]

Is that vinyl siding? First thing that comes to my mind is flashing the new roof to the existing wall. Are you putting a deck on the top to take advantage of the upstairs door? Then there's dealing with that cornice nearest the addon.

 

[bluesman2a]

Is that vinyl siding? First thing that comes to my mind is flashing the new roof to the existing wall. Are you putting a deck on the top to take advantage of the upstairs door? Then there's dealing with that cornice nearest the addon.

Yes, it's vinyl. While I understand the need to flash it appropriately, is this a problem I should be aware of?

Not sure on the deck, there is no interior stairway currently, so that door is the only entrance to the upstairs. I'd LIKE a deck one day, but not sure if that would add too much to the price. You bring up another question though I've been trying to consider if I want interior or exterior stairs. I like the idea of interior (comfort), but I think exterior would be nice from a utility perspective (able to leave them open and get larger items up stairs).

I'm sorry, but you lost me on the cornice comment, could you please enlighten me on this one? I can see where it needs to be addressed to get the roof to fit, but would this be a big problem in some way?

 

[1320stang]

The cornice problem is most evident in your last pic where the old roof line came down and the new roofline is above it. That little eave sticking out is refered to as the cornice, (actually all eaves and any trim or soffitt material associated with it is refered to as the cornice package.)

I think I would try to design the bump out roof to incorporate the future deck. i.e. have your timbers poke up thru the roof, flash and waterproof appropriately and when you go to put the deck on, you have these posts sticking up that you can set a beam on and attach your joists to. Then use rolled roofing on top of the roof, or even metal as it's on the back side and will eventually be covered by the deck. It would be the best due to the low pitch.