Ok to run boiler at 140F constantly?

[porcupine73]

Hi, I just bought a house that has a boiler for heat. It's pretty cold and windy here. I kept turning up the thermostat but noticed the house wasn't getting much warmer. Then I was confused as to why the boiler wasn't even running when I turned the thermostat up all the way.

So I checked at the boiler and noticed the return pipe is hot to the touch. The boiler gauge shows around 140F all the time. It does cycle on and off, but it stays on for only a few minutes at a time. I'm guessing it's got a high cutout around 140F? The radiators in the house do get warm/hot. I'm guessing it's just that the boiler has way more btu capacity than the radiators in the house can use?

 

[Stang65]

If it's a condensing boiler the aquastat should be set no lower than 160 degrees. Most residential boilers are set to run at 180 degrees. What make/model is your boiler? You should look for a manual for more information.

I see your in Buffalo, I am in Rochester, my boiler is set to 180 degrees. It has been cold and windy.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Are you sure all the pumps are working and the water is flowing freely?

 

[anthony666]

see above

 

[porcupine73]

Hi, thanks, this is a Bryant boiler, I found the manual stuck in the rafters. It's probably from the 70's or maybe 80's based on the style of the manual. It's been updated with new burners and some other stuff. It's not condensing.

It has one pump on the system, a small taco pump. It has no zones, everything is just piped in series it looks like for the entire house. The taco pump seems to run. I can feel it buzzing when the boiler burners are on. The radiators get pretty warm. The house is warm, like 73F, but she won't go any warmer. "I'm givin er all she's got captain"

Once I get my first gas bill I'll probably regret having it set so high.

Maybe it's just too cold/windy here (Buffalo NY) as it sounds like Stang65 you're already aware . I remember living in an apt years ago in Rochester when the weather was like this that had boiler heat. It dropped down to the mid 60's in the apt and it just wouldn't go any warmer and the apt maint guy said he had it set to like 190F and that's all he could do.

 

[anthony666]

it's working them .. next step is to ditch the old school pos boiler and get something modern with zoned controls & better near boiler

 

[BillK]

. The house is warm, like 73F, but she won't go any warmer.

How much warmer do you want it to be ?????? We keep our house at around 67 and that is almost too warm.

One thing you need to look at is the humidity level. If you don't have one, get one of those small combination thermometer and humidity gauges and see what it is. We keep the humidity up around 40% and if the humidifier runs out of water the house really starts feeling colder real quick.

 

[Rentawrench]

The thermosat runs the pump not the boiler.

Base board heat? Rads would be Steam, an IF steam an you have the water level to high in the boiler it will run an Not make heat.


Pics will Help, Boiler an Radiators too

 

[Thumper68]

If the rads are hot and it just gets cold when the wind is blowing then you need to seal the air leaks. I would try the window plastic and check where the foundation meets the frameing, if you find cracks there seal them up with spray foam.

 

[Thumper68]

The thermosat runs the pump not the boiler.

Base board heat? Rads would be Steam, an IF steam an you have the water level to high in the boiler it will run an Not make heat.


Pics will Help, Boiler an Radiators too

Rads are not always steam, there are cast iron and ceramic hot waters rads as well.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Might gather up all the necessary info, boiler make and model, btu, number of radiators and/or baseboard units, square footage of heated area, age of house, rough idea of insulation, sealing, double windows, etc, and go on

http://www.heatinghelp.com/Forum

and find the proper forum for your type of heat and bring this up.

Charles

 

[Stang65]

I would set the aquastat to 180. If the pump was not running you wouldn't feel heat at the radiators, plus the boiler would get up to temp quick.

One pump does not mean it only has one zone. It could have automatic valves that open when other areas of the house call for heat. (then you would have more than one thermostat.)

You can also vary your supply and return by the hand valves. I would get a infered temp gun and check your supply and return as well as your radiators. If the flow is too fast it won't have time to transfer the required heat. If it's too slow you will cycle the boiler on and off too often.

 

[BD1]

Is your heating units cast iron radiators or fin tube baseboard ? If its fin tube baseboard you can run that at 200 degrees. If cast iron radiators, a increase in water temperature is gonna make those radiators really hot to the touch. If you have young kids that could be a real safety issue..
With copper fin tube baseboard, some contractors would shorten the length of baseboard cover and element and increase water temperature. In some cases you could have wall to wall cover and element and the temperature can be lower.
If it is hot water radiators, you should have a vent on the side for air removal. Some require a key and others a screw driver will fit. Just crack the vent to confirm you have solid water and no air trapped.
Maybe post some pictures.