hardwood floors?
- Thread starter P Dubya
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dladcock
Well-known member
I have refinished several hardwood floors over the years, all of our own. Never anyone else's. Depending on what you want, you can do it yourself or hire a pro outfit.
Good floors that have been finished and just have built up wax, varnish/other can simply be stripped and refinished with water-based or solvent-based product.
Our current house is older so, we wanted the finish to "carry" the look as opposed to the look of flooring in a new build.
It really depends what you want in the end.
Our floors were dark, varnished Oak. Stripped them with paint remover, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned again, then applied solvent based polyurethane. I used Gloss poly for the first two coats because there are more solids in gloss to build the thickness faster, followed with a coat of satin poly. Sand lightly between coats with 600 grit and wipe down and vacuum thoroughly. I rolled on the poly and made sure I'm using a clean short nap roller at all times.
That's how we did it, the results have been favorable, at least from HER point of view, so it's all good.
dla
Good floors that have been finished and just have built up wax, varnish/other can simply be stripped and refinished with water-based or solvent-based product.
Our current house is older so, we wanted the finish to "carry" the look as opposed to the look of flooring in a new build.
It really depends what you want in the end.
Our floors were dark, varnished Oak. Stripped them with paint remover, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned again, then applied solvent based polyurethane. I used Gloss poly for the first two coats because there are more solids in gloss to build the thickness faster, followed with a coat of satin poly. Sand lightly between coats with 600 grit and wipe down and vacuum thoroughly. I rolled on the poly and made sure I'm using a clean short nap roller at all times.
That's how we did it, the results have been favorable, at least from HER point of view, so it's all good.
dla
Voi
Well-known member
Make sure it's not UV cured flooring product as you can't just scuff sand those and get a bond with oil based or waterborne urethanes.
Determine the wood species and whether it would benefit from the warmth and grain-popping effect of an oil based sealer. You're in Iowa so access to solvent based products shouldn't be a problem, as far as I know. If you're hoping to avoid the solvent odor you can achieve a similar effect with tinted sealers or wax free shellac. Having seen both, I prefer the latter over the former.
A friend of ours did our rustic oak floors with an oil based sanding sealer and top coated with Bona Traffic and later our stairs with Bona Traffic HD. Both are 2K, post catalyzed waterborne urethanes. There is a learning curve due to product having to be catalyzed on site but it has been described to me as being otherwise easy to work with for the DIY beginner. There are other 2K floor finishes as well. Back when we remodeled Street Shoes was making one that had great reviews.
We are impressed with the finish. Our 140 pound dog and my four and five year old boys have been beating on it for five years now. Holding up great.
Determine the wood species and whether it would benefit from the warmth and grain-popping effect of an oil based sealer. You're in Iowa so access to solvent based products shouldn't be a problem, as far as I know. If you're hoping to avoid the solvent odor you can achieve a similar effect with tinted sealers or wax free shellac. Having seen both, I prefer the latter over the former.
A friend of ours did our rustic oak floors with an oil based sanding sealer and top coated with Bona Traffic and later our stairs with Bona Traffic HD. Both are 2K, post catalyzed waterborne urethanes. There is a learning curve due to product having to be catalyzed on site but it has been described to me as being otherwise easy to work with for the DIY beginner. There are other 2K floor finishes as well. Back when we remodeled Street Shoes was making one that had great reviews.
We are impressed with the finish. Our 140 pound dog and my four and five year old boys have been beating on it for five years now. Holding up great.
justanengineer
Well-known member
We did ours in a weekend, ~500 ft^2. Realistically, you dont need anything fancy, a couple of orbital palm sanders and some 40-60 grit cuts through it in no time. It sounds crazy compared to using an actual floor sander, but most DIYers that Ive seen use the bigger machines have successfully buggered up their floors and like anything else prep work makes the finish. Palm sanders also let you easily get right into the edges along walls, in closets, and other oddball areas.
My only suggestion regarding poly is to use an oil based poly that is meant for high traffic areas for durability.
edit: If its a newer home or newer flooring, make sure you double check the thickness of the flooring. Many of the products out there today can only be refinished once or twice before you have to rip them out and start over.
My only suggestion regarding poly is to use an oil based poly that is meant for high traffic areas for durability.
edit: If its a newer home or newer flooring, make sure you double check the thickness of the flooring. Many of the products out there today can only be refinished once or twice before you have to rip them out and start over.
Last edited:
YW84U
Well-known member
I did a DIY to one of the upper bedrooms last year, which was 1967 3/4" red oak strip floor with a bajillion staple and carpet tack strip marks. I agree with justanengineer that the prep work is the most important part and check the wood species or veneer thickness to ensure it is a suitable candidate. I used rental machines, for which you have to be choosy and fairly careful of since they are often abused and may cause damage if they are in rough shape. A drum will take things down a lot faster than a big random orbit machine - but there is more chances of introducing marks using the drum. If you are worried, the big random orbit will get you a good result, but it will take a lot more time and probably pad changes.
Since this was my 'test room' before I do the rest of the upstairs/downstairs a few months from now, I had wrote down my recipe so that I could replicate it
. Here's the process I used that worked well for my situation:
Comb floor for any leftover fasteners, secure any loose boards and repair any squeaks from below. Shopvac and tack cloth between steps, and wear non-marking footwear.
Tools:
Clarke OBS-18 sander 18x12
Super 7r edger
Du-8 drum sander 8"
Regular random orbit palm sander
Sanding Schedule:
For drum and edger - 60/80/apply Woodwise Full Trowell Filler (Red Oak), let dry/100/Check with bright lamp @ sharp angle to locate any imperfections
Screen using 100 grit pad with OBS-18 to mitigate any minor blemishes or marks from the multiple drum passes.
**waterpop grain with slight amount of water/allow to dry overnight (raises grain, allowing for a nicer stain finish; it will result in raised wood fibres that will need to be screened down during successive sandings though)
**Bona Special walnut stain/dry overnight
**touch ups and fill with Woodwise/touch up stain
**Bona Mega Satin first coat/dry overnight/screen @220 with OBS (use 220 grit adhesive strip sandpaper placed overtop 100 grit pad for cushioning)/recoat/dry overnight/screen again@220/final coat/let cure
** use 18in T-bar with padco applicator for Bona, pour a workable puddle then drag it in Z pattern maintaining a wet edge at all times.
Before
During
After stain, before poly
Final
It took me about a week, since I wanted to let the waterpop, stain, and various coats dry as much as possible between applications. The Bona Mega was fairly easy to work with, you just need to maintain a wet edge as you squeegee it over the surface and work your way towards the exit.
I hope this info may be of value, and hope your project goes well! Make sure to post pics and updates
Cheers,
Tom
Since this was my 'test room' before I do the rest of the upstairs/downstairs a few months from now, I had wrote down my recipe so that I could replicate it
. Here's the process I used that worked well for my situation:Comb floor for any leftover fasteners, secure any loose boards and repair any squeaks from below. Shopvac and tack cloth between steps, and wear non-marking footwear.
Tools:
Clarke OBS-18 sander 18x12
Super 7r edger
Du-8 drum sander 8"
Regular random orbit palm sander
Sanding Schedule:
For drum and edger - 60/80/apply Woodwise Full Trowell Filler (Red Oak), let dry/100/Check with bright lamp @ sharp angle to locate any imperfections
Screen using 100 grit pad with OBS-18 to mitigate any minor blemishes or marks from the multiple drum passes.
**waterpop grain with slight amount of water/allow to dry overnight (raises grain, allowing for a nicer stain finish; it will result in raised wood fibres that will need to be screened down during successive sandings though)
**Bona Special walnut stain/dry overnight
**touch ups and fill with Woodwise/touch up stain
**Bona Mega Satin first coat/dry overnight/screen @220 with OBS (use 220 grit adhesive strip sandpaper placed overtop 100 grit pad for cushioning)/recoat/dry overnight/screen again@220/final coat/let cure
** use 18in T-bar with padco applicator for Bona, pour a workable puddle then drag it in Z pattern maintaining a wet edge at all times.
Before
During
After stain, before poly
Final
It took me about a week, since I wanted to let the waterpop, stain, and various coats dry as much as possible between applications. The Bona Mega was fairly easy to work with, you just need to maintain a wet edge as you squeegee it over the surface and work your way towards the exit.
I hope this info may be of value, and hope your project goes well! Make sure to post pics and updates
Cheers,
Tom
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
My daughter had hers done professionally. BEAUTIFUL ! Wall-to-wall is quieter and feels a bit warmer on bare feet, but hardwood with at least 2 coats of poly is more durable.
Her carpet looked bad after 3 years of little one drooling, dripping and dropping things on it. Hardwood cleans up with a damp rag or maybe a little spray cleaner. After a year and 2 additional kids, they look amazing. Not one scuff mark.
Keep wet and dirt shoes off of it and it will last a long time.
Her carpet looked bad after 3 years of little one drooling, dripping and dropping things on it. Hardwood cleans up with a damp rag or maybe a little spray cleaner. After a year and 2 additional kids, they look amazing. Not one scuff mark.
Keep wet and dirt shoes off of it and it will last a long time.
sammerdog
Banned
I've done a few floors over the years. I used a roller for polyurethane application once and got small air-bubbles in the finish. Since then I've used a micro-fiber on a T-bar and floated the polyurethane on. Those floors turned out better with no air bubbles.
Regarding polyurethane - stir it gently prior to use, never shake it. Shaking it will introduce air-bubbles to the product.
ddawg16
Well-known member
Whether DIY or professional, the house is going to smell for 3-4 days. Doing it right is not a fast process.
Personally, if you have the time....it is very much a DIY project. You rent the sander....everything else you buy.
One of the most important points.
DIRT.
It is paramount that you keep the area clean. Tack clothes and the shop vac are your friend. ANY dirt will get trapped in the poly coat and show up. Keep it clean, and it's pretty much a no brainer.
Personally, if you have the time....it is very much a DIY project. You rent the sander....everything else you buy.
One of the most important points.
DIRT.
It is paramount that you keep the area clean. Tack clothes and the shop vac are your friend. ANY dirt will get trapped in the poly coat and show up. Keep it clean, and it's pretty much a no brainer.
YW84U
Well-known member
Definitely +1 on both ddawg16 and sammerdog's tips!
As well, if you do hire out, make sure to check out their previous work in person - in my past experience, some of the time I've had work done (plumbers, HVAC, windows) I've found that they don't necessarily take the same amount of care or pride in the project and I end up spending more of my own time 'fixing it'.....
if I don't, then it will eat away at me almost as much as an empty Hansen Tray peg
Cheers,
Tom
As well, if you do hire out, make sure to check out their previous work in person - in my past experience, some of the time I've had work done (plumbers, HVAC, windows) I've found that they don't necessarily take the same amount of care or pride in the project and I end up spending more of my own time 'fixing it'.....
if I don't, then it will eat away at me almost as much as an empty Hansen Tray peg
Cheers,
Tom
Stokes_
Banned
I'd select a small portion to practice on so you can view the results before committing to doing the whole thing yourself. Hardwood flooring is one of those things that are easy to screw up and are very costly.
Well... I rented the sander today and went it it. The old finish came of fairly well I thing. Started with 36 grit, second pass was 80 grit and I'm planning on at least a 3rd pass with 100 grit tomorrow... Lots of hand work to be done around the edges and baseboard but I only have the sander for so long so I want to get that part done. After a little learning curve with the sander it went pretty well I think.... Thanks for all the replies!
Stokes_
Banned
Good luck to you. Have been considering redoing my own, the stain is too light for my taste. They are in great condition though, the only real reason that has kept me from doing it thus far.
Stokes_
Banned
Is 36 grit recommended? I know nothing of carpentry, admittedly, but that seems very course for flooring.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Yikes! 36 grit? You hogged that top coat off, huh? Did you take puctures to post here?
My house needs doing badly in the hall. I've got dogs (1 is 100 lbs) and their nails play hell with real hardwood floors. So much do that I've considered using laminate over it. I KNOW its sacrilege to cover hardwood floors but I've seen some better quality laminates that truly look great.
My house needs doing badly in the hall. I've got dogs (1 is 100 lbs) and their nails play hell with real hardwood floors. So much do that I've considered using laminate over it. I KNOW its sacrilege to cover hardwood floors but I've seen some better quality laminates that truly look great.
Stokes_
Banned
Well hey, the previous owner of my house put carpet over mine, the house is over 40 years old and when we pulled the carpet up we were amazed at the flooring that looked practically brand new.
YW84U
Well-known member
Glad to hear you dove in and are making good progress! 36 will definitely take things off in a hurry, so use care and absolutely no lingering.....
Keep us posted, and if you have opportunity make sure to include some pics for us to follow along with.
Looking forward to your success!
Tom
fivespdcat
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2011
- Messages
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Most old houses had "hardwood" underneath their carpet. The old timers tell me that if you had hardwood, it was because you were too poor to afford carpet. Go figure, now hardwood is seen as the luxury.