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rebuilt air compressor break-in period

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unashamedlaborer

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Use a non detergent 30wt non synthetic oil for break in. Run it without the heads on if you have not already torqued them on. Usually a couple hours is more than sufficient to seat the rings in. You can see with the heads off if it is pumping oil, three stage? Do you mean 3 cylinder?
 

unashamedlaborer

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I'm curious,are you filling diving tanks or something? 3 stage are good for like 5000psi.


I'm sure the OP has a single stage 3 cylinder unit. I don't think Curtis even makes a high pressure unit. But I could be wrong. Nevertheless all the high pressure stuff usually has Teflon rings and such. Probably not the case with this unit.
 
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sirweldalot

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Dec 24, 2013
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It has 3 small cylinders. That does not mean 3 stage pump? Thanks to all on here for educating me on this matter. I am not so smart on these things. I hope for some guidance,education. Thanks so much.
 

p0lar

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Jun 15, 2013
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A pic. of the compressor pump.

That's a single stage, 3 cylinder unit. Note how it has individual intake filters on each head, as well as a common discharge line between all three that eventually pressurizes the reservoir.
 

kams1973

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Run 30mins with no load. Then run 30mins with 40psi load. After that, normal use will finish off the break in. Some claim using synthetic oil initially will prolong the break in off a new/rebuilt pump.
 
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bsaint

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DO NOT RUN IT WITHOUT HEADS. LOAD THE COMPRESSOR.

Running without heads is a stupid idea. The air in the cylinder pushes the rings against the wall. Without the heads on, you're just gonna pass oil.

Run it with non synthetic single weight for 100 hours, then change. If you don't run 100 hours in one year, then change after one year.
 

Mandres

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In my opinion, meh ... why bother? All the gas engine break-in procedures I've seen involve varying or limiting the RPMs in order to make sure the rings wear evenly into the cylinders before whacking the throttle open full bore.

Since you can't control RPM anyway on a compressor motor there doesn't seem to be much sense in having a "break-in" period. :dunno: I say make sure there's oil in it and put it in service.
 

unashamedlaborer

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DO NOT RUN IT WITHOUT HEADS. LOAD THE COMPRESSOR.



Running without heads is a stupid idea. The air in the cylinder pushes the rings against the wall. Without the heads on, you're just gonna pass oil.



Run it with non synthetic single weight for 100 hours, then change. If you don't run 100 hours in one year, then change after one year.


All compressors should run a single viscosity oil regardless of break in or not. Also the rings have enough tension to seat themselves without pressure In the cylinder, if it is pumping oil after an hour or two by sprinkling a little borax in the cylinder it WILL seat in. Then it can be cleaned out, oil changed to synthetic 30wt and it is good to go.
It's not all necessary I suppose if you don't mind a little oil in your air for a while. For my company it is not worth the hassle to have customers calling upset about some oil in their air and receiver tank.
But hey YMMV. just saying that's how a compressor company does it.
 

unashamedlaborer

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In my opinion, meh ... why bother? All the gas engine break-in procedures I've seen involve varying or limiting the RPMs in order to make sure the rings wear evenly into the cylinders before whacking the throttle open full bore.



Since you can't control RPM anyway on a compressor motor there doesn't seem to be much sense in having a "break-in" period. :dunno: I say make sure there's oil in it and put it in service.


Any good recip compressor is going to run at about idle speed for a gas engine. That being said it takes a LONG time for rings to seat in if you simply fill it with oil and run it.
 

chris142

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Id assume the same as a new compressor. My quincy said to run it 30 or 45 minutes with the tank drain open.they also require sae40 synthetic oil
 
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