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Looking for a little shed building advice

jmgreen7

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Aug 22, 2013
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I'm looking to put in a 10x14 shed in my backyard. At this point, i'm planning on putting 3 skids on concrete blocks running the parallel to the long side. So my questions are these:
1. What size skids should i use? 4x4? 6x6?
2. For the flooring, should i use 2x4s or something a bit beefier?
3. Based on the recommended flooring, what O.C. spacing should i use?

Thanks for all the help
 
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Krodad

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Mar 25, 2006
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2x4 at 12oc would be more than enough

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buffaloguy89

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2x6 with 16"oc is what I'd do. With 3/4" tongue and groove ply for the floor. . That will make a beefy floor

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buffaloguy89

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Oh and 4x4 should be plenty if your going on concrete blocks..6x6 if your going on the ground...treated of course

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jmgreen7

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Aug 22, 2013
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I also forgot; would i place the outer skids about 9-12 inches from the outsides of the shed?
 
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jmgreen7

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Aug 22, 2013
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2x6 with 16"oc is what I'd do. With 3/4" tongue and groove ply for the floor. . That will make a beefy floor

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I'm definitely looking to do 3/4 T&G. I'd lean towards 2x4 since they can be cheaper even though i'm ultimately using more of them.
 

thouk

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My hometown, Lincoln, Nebraska
Just a thought,
One thing to think about with the skid placement. Find a flat bed wrecker and measure the rail to rail distance. Put the outside of your skids just slightly less than that distance. That way you could sell it later and have to hauled away so you can build a bigger building later. Tony
 

Ed Litsch

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Skids? :headscrat Are you talking about pallets? That doesn't sound like too good of an idea to me. I'd do something more along the lines of what buffaloguy89 recommends in post #3..
 

sulfurburner

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Kansas City area
Just a thought,
One thing to think about with the skid placement. Find a flat bed wrecker and measure the rail to rail distance. Put the outside of your skids just slightly less than that distance. That way you could sell it later and have to hauled away so you can build a bigger building later. Tony

I just got rid of two shed that were in the backyard of a house I moved to. one was 10x12 footprint the other was 8x10 footprint. I worried about the rails also, but the guy I used was able to just pop his side rails off and let the shed hang over the bed just a little.
 

The Slurpee King

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Behind the wheel of my truck
Just a thought,
One thing to think about with the skid placement. Find a flat bed wrecker and measure the rail to rail distance. Put the outside of your skids just slightly less than that distance. That way you could sell it later and have to hauled away so you can build a bigger building later. Tony

I can ballpark those for you right now. Figuring the "rub rail" area on a rail-less or removeable-rail deck is about 2" each side: a 102"-wide OD deck will accomodate skids up to 98" OD; a 96" OD deck will accomodate 92" OD skids (you can do 98" OD skids on a 96" deck, but the load is a PITA). My numbers are based on preferring shed skids to be inside the rub rails; my regular shed-builders all adjusted their specs to meet the 98" for my 102-wide deck.

96-wide decks are standard issue from all manufacturers; every manufacturer offers 102-wide versions, but 8.5' wide bodies are not legal everywhere.

I can't speak to decks with rails (a "standard deck" is 96 inches wide OD with non-removeable rails) because I hate rails, but a 10' wide shed body will ride on the rails anyway, and the skids will be off the deck surface, so it becomes academic.

I'm sure this is far more esoterica than you need. I'm bored today.


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NUTTSGT

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I was going to say go with 2x6s 16 OC but since Glider mentioned 2x4 12 OC, I think he has the experience. He's built a ton of these things and if he doesn't have any complaints about the floor than it must work alright.
 
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jmgreen7

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Aug 22, 2013
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Thanks everyone for the input. I'm probably going to go with the 2x4 with 3/4 T&G. I have to rework the concrete blocks b/c i had started to set them up to align with the corners of the shed instead of being moved under the shed about 9 inches or so.
 
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jmgreen7

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Aug 22, 2013
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I built a 10x16 shed this past summer.

I used 3 - 4"x4" skids running the length set on road base gravel. On top of the skids I did 2x6 joists and then 3/4 T&G plywood. It's a very sturdy shed.

Build thread here:
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163328

Matthew.

I had to go and look at your build. To say that i am blown away by it would be quite the understatement. It looks fantastic.

Since i'm working in the winter, and it's pretty much just me working, things are going really slow. My F-i-L was helping me get the blocks set when we realized that the crappy string level i have showed that i was level in one direction, but if i flipped it around, i was way off. That pretty much summed up our day and we called it quits.
With the location of the shed in our yard and what runs under it, i prefer to get it off the ground even beyond just the skids (hence the blocks). Once i actually make some progress, i may create a building thread on here, but for the time being, i'm at a stand still and that is not really fun for anyone to follow.
 

Rdkng07

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Dec 31, 2013
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Hi, my son and I built one of these in a 12 x 16 two years ago. I modified it a little, it was an easy build.

Cedar_Colonial_1_4e8b26fd8f846.jpg
 

CNGsaves

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Also recommend SCREWING all that subframing together. Do not cheap out and just use nails.
 

Den69rs96

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Hi, my son and I built one of these in a 12 x 16 two years ago. I modified it a little, it was an easy build.
QUOTE]

I use the same company to build my shed. I also bought his book. I found some good tips in there. It called for 4x8xx16 solid concrete blocks with 2x6 to lay on top of 2x8 sills with 3/4 tg plywood for the floor. My plans were for 10x16 but I scaled them back to 8x12 because I didn't need a permit if my shed was under 100 sq ft. Here is a pic of my shed I built in 2008
 

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Rdkng07

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Dec 31, 2013
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I use the same company to build my shed. I also bought his book. I found some good tips in there. It called for 4x8xx16 solid concrete blocks with 2x6 to lay on top of 2x8 sills with 3/4 tg plywood for the floor. My plans were for 10x16 but I scaled them back to 8x12 because I didn't need a permit if my shed was under 100 sq ft. Here is a pic of my shed I built in 2008

Nice looking shed. I also bought the book, and where I live I had to be under 200 sq.ft. to build without a permit.
 

Bucky Badger

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Madison WI
Here is a video of my shed build
16x22

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/1M1H1yF7U2o?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Stairs for the attic
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/HE8XuKfaSjo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Mandres

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Also recommend SCREWING all that subframing together. Do not cheap out and just use nails.

I disagree. There are positives and negatives to both screws and nails, and wood framing is one case where the malleability of nails is an advantage. Wood moves; especially green construction lumber. Screws are much more brittle and can't accommodate that movement as well.
 
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jmgreen7

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Aug 22, 2013
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24
I've been doing a bit of reading up on the wood flooring. A lot of people are saying that a 2x4 12"o.c. floor is not strong enough to support the weight of the shed. I think i'm going to bump it up to a 2x6 and kinda follow the layout that 964Haus put in.
If i am using 2x6s with either a 10x14 or 10x16 shed, should i put 3 rows of 4 blocks, or will 3 rows of 3 be sufficient?
 
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