Getting 110v from a 220 outlet?

[Loadre]

I live in an apartment complex with a garage underneath each living area. At the far end of the garage is only a single 110 hookup and a 220 hookup. This is where the washer and dryer are supposed to go but they would get in the way of storing car stuff.

I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electrical. Is there an adapter I could plug in to the 220 outlet that would allow me to run 110 out of it? Probably a pretty stupid question. My dad also mentioned that they have adapters to screw into light sockets (there are 2 at this end of the garage) that you can plug into. Any thoughts on those? I would really like to run off the 220 line if possible though, as its on a different breaker (duh). Mainly would just like to run a couple of flourescent T8 fixtures off this.

Modifying the wiring is not an option. Thanks!

 

[IDASHO]

TO do it right, you will need to confirm that there are not 3, but 4 conductors in the box.

240 uses two hots and a neutral. No ground.

110 uses one hot, one neutral, and one ground.


You need the ground. (again, to do it right). You COULD use just one hot and the neutral, but it isnt the correct way to do it.

 

[LoneGunman]

"240 uses two hots and a neutral. No ground."

It's the other way around, typo?

I have never seen that type of an adapter, is the receptacle you are talking about 3 wire or 4, how many holes/slots are in the receptacle?

Even if it's three wire it would be easy to change that to a 120v receptacle. You'd have to remove the white wire (most likely white) from the two pole breaker and attach it to the neutral bus. Remove the 240v receptacle (with the breaker off obviously and after you have tested it is truly off) and install a 120v receptacle. Yes, you are changing the wiring but it can easily be put back to it's original configuration.

 

[Loadre]

I'd rather do it the right way than not at all. Don't wanna burn the complex down. Just took the cover off and there are 4 wires. Red, Black, White, and a copper/uncovered looking wire. All bolted down into connectors.

 

[Loadre]

Its a 4 slot receptacle. I'll go take pics real fast.

 

[2LTim]

Using a dryer outlet to power a pair of lights would be way overkill, but it will work. You can purchase a dryer cord to match your outlet and make an adapter, or if you have a decent RV dealer in your area, they usually stock an elaborate aray of adapters.
To make your own, get a dryer cord. It will have 3 wires, the middle one is the neutral and the outside two are the 110 volt "Hot Legs." Connect an outlet to each hot leg (Copper screw side) and connect the neutral from each outlet (Silver screw side) to the neutral wire.
You also need to connect the ground terminals to something. The correct way would be to install a 4-wire recepticle and cord. The wiring would be the same as mentioned above, with the addition of a green wire to be conected to the green "Ground" screws on your outlets. Although not "Correct," what a lot of people do in this situation is connect a jumper from the ground screw to the neutral screw. Both of these wires, green/bare(ground) and white(neutral), are eventually conncted to the same buss bar in the main service panel, they should have their own dedicated conductors to the panel. The reason is that if you have a fixture that has the ground connected to the housing (as it should be), and you have a failure in your neutral wire back to the panel, the light fixture just became "Live," and very dangerious!
Your dryer circuit surely has at least a double 30 amp breaker which is a bit too heavey for normal outlet circuits. This could be swapped out for a double 15 or double 20, dependng on which outlets you use. Or you could install fuses/breakers between the dryer cord and the outlets.
Another good idea would be to use GFCI outlets in the garage area.

 

[Loadre]

Here you go

 

[Mellotron]

Is it just me or does that thing look like a rusty disaster?

 

[Loadre]

Nope, when I took the cover off I saw the exact same thing. I think I'm gonna have to get that part fixed first before I start on getting any power from it. But thank you ALL for the suggestions.

 

[rinny_tin_tin]

Here you go

If it is what it looks like - you have two "hot" poles - the red and the black that should have 240 across them and a neutral and a ground (white and bare copper) so - 120 should be black to white or red to white

 

[IDASHO]

"240 uses two hots and a neutral. No ground."

It's the other way around, typo?

Yes, typo.

Although, unless it is a subpanel, it doesnt really matter either way!

No matter really, he's got 4 conductors. Easy to wire in both 240 and 110

 

[LoneGunman]

Yes, typo.

Although, unless it is a subpanel, it doesnt really matter either way!

No matter really, he's got 4 conductors. Easy to wire in both 240 and 110

Yup (plus the required )

 

[Torque1st]

Is it just me or does that thing look like a rusty disaster?

The bracket has some rust from being on a concrete wall in a humid environment. The plug itself looks fine.

Take the plug cover to an RV parts dealer for adapters. Since you are in an apartment you probably do not want to make any "alterations" to the existing wiring.

 

[Loadre]

The wall that the plug is on is also about 6-8 feet underground. I think there might be a little leakthrough from the holes drilled.

I'm probably gonna hit up Northern Tool first, our local one has a pretty wide array of plugs and what not.

 

[kbs2244]

If you are as clueless as you say you are. go the RV store route.
Just take it the PIC of the outside of the box.
They should have a "splitter."
It will be all prewired and even rainproof.

 

[sberry]

This whole idea to run a couple fixtures is basically a bad plan, this circuit would also need to have over current protection added or a breaker change out in front of it.

 

[sberry]

We give a lot of help on these forums as to legit wiring installations but this is about like gensets feeding panels without the proper disconnects, etc, I am not a big fan of multi voltage cobble jobs and not a particular fan of double dipping dryer circuits in many cases.

 

[MXtras]

Maybe this diagram will help

Scott

 

[Loadre]

Thanks for all the suggestions fellas. Wound up going a different route.

 

[ddawg16]

I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electrical.

That is the first clue to not do it...

My dad also mentioned that they have adapters to screw into light sockets (there are 2 at this end of the garage) that you can plug into. ............. Mainly would just like to run a couple of flourescent T8 fixtures off this.

Better idea....

So, what did you end up doing?

 

[Loadre]

Not as clueless as I made it out to be, just regarding the 220v line and what would have to be done with it. haha

Going with the light socket adapters. That way I can control the lights off the wall switch instead of having to walk around and turn all of them on. Might get some pics up soon, everybody in the complex is jealous of my garage.

 

[Torque1st]

This whole idea to run a couple fixtures is basically a bad plan, this circuit would also need to have over current protection added or a breaker change out in front of it.

That is why I mentioned the RV dealer route. Some of the setups I have seen for this had breakers built into the splitter. They were also set up for outdoor use since they were equipment for campers. I did not look closely at the time to see if they were listed products but they probably had some sort of listing.

 

[Torque1st]

Not as clueless as I made it out to be, just regarding the 220v line and what would have to be done with it. haha

Going with the light socket adapters. That way I can control the lights off the wall switch instead of having to walk around and turn all of them on. Might get some pics up soon, everybody in the complex is jealous of my garage.

The screw-in light socket adapters are not grounded. You need grounded outlets for those fluorescent shop lights.