The VISES of Garage Journal

[EOC_Jason]

I don't think so; Maybe 30's to WWII?

The later models had the round medallion style logo, like Getridofone has on the previous page. This is old style lettering, and it looks like it's recessed instead of raised which I've never seen before on a Prentiss.

Prentiss was in business from 1880 - 1940's...

 

[Monkey_Wrench]

The later models had the round medallion style logo, like Getridofone has on the previous page. This is old style lettering, and it looks like it's recessed instead of raised which I've never seen before on a Prentiss.

Prentiss was in business from 1880 - 1940's...

The lettering is raised on mine.

 

[EOC_Jason]

The lettering is raised on mine.

Oh okay... *phew*... it must of just be the angle and lighting, or maybe I've been hit in the head one too many times... lol.

 

[wrenchguy]

Re: What brand?

What brand is it? thanks 4 looking.


http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/4251860973.html

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

I'm guessing York?

 

[drivesitfar]

looks like it's definitely worth $50. so close to a Wilton look and wondering if there was a company in Europe that made the similar design. it also looks fairly big.

Jason: I think you could still be correct, but wait until the fumes from your Reed cooking leave your garage.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Re: What brand?

What brand is it? thanks 4 looking.

It looks like a York 150. Which 150mm = ~6" wide jaws. York is made in Czechoslovakia. http://www.york.cz/

It's said that the guy that started Wilton used to work for York and took their idea, came to the US and started making his own vises. Or something along those lines, you can do some googling for the whole story.

I would be all over that vise for $50!!!

They aren't as heavy duty as a Wilton, my 5" York only weighs 37lbs, but they are still very nice.

 

[gmwelder86]

I just used 1-1/4 aluminum angle from Home Depot. Cut about 3/4 long on each side, notched than bent over the sides with a tinners hammer to get a tight fit between the two over laped joints.

nice rescue out of that Barn Getridofone. just curious why you guys are trying to lift these huge vises with the dynamic jaw inside the body? it weighs a lot less in two pieces and i'm just saying.

GM: when you showed your awesome vise family a few days ago you had some aluminum jaws that looked homemade on your Reed. did you make them and what did you use and how? picture attached. NICE

 

[G20-Budo]

.....as I am in the middle of the American Scale project now.

GETRIDAONE that American Scale vise is looking GREAT! Looking forward to seeing final pics of it assembled.

 

[BFBOB]

I picked up another one of these little I-beam one-inchers just because they're cute. This one, though has what appears to be a maker's mark. They all are stamped made in USA on one side of the I-beam; this one has a stamping on the other side too. At first I thought it was a large 17 and a small 6, but closer inspection and a little cleaning showed the 17 to actually be a trapezoid. It's keystone shaped... could that mean Pennsylvania?
Anyone have an idea who the manufacturer might be?
Thanks

 

[GETRIDAONE]

GETRIDAONE that American Scale vise is looking GREAT! Looking forward to seeing final pics of it assembled.

Thanks, I'm still trying to decide if I like the paint on the screw knob. I might take the paint off and polish it. I didn't see a difference in red paint color so it could have been original paint or bare metal and sprayed at some point ?

 

[confederatemule]

BFBOB, that little vise you bought and posted the pictures of, in post #12352, is nice. I have never seen one like it. The rear jaw sliding on the I-beam is sort of like it sliding on "V" ways, without gibs. Course, until I came across this forum, I never give much thought to a vise, other than it being a tool to hold an object with. I did know there were all kinds of sizes and shapes. But, I never gave them much thought, as long as they weren't too sloppy or broke. I hate trying to use a sloppy vise!!

Mule

 

[EOC_Jason]

Pulled the Reed 4C out of the e-tank late yesterday. Cleaned off most rust pretty well. Tried tightening it up... naada... Got out the sledge and managed to beat it closed 1 full turn which was like 1/4" of movement. Discovered there is a good thick layer of dirt/sand still on the slide inside the static housing. I could scrape it off with my fingernail but man...

Not sure if I should keep trying to beat the handle closed a couple more turns and see if that frees it up, or if I should work on pulling the handle and then try to beat the slide from the back to get it all the way out.

Heat wouldn't do jack in this situation, it's not rust that's gluing it together, it just dirt...

Thoughts / Suggestions?

 

[Craptain]

Pulled the Reed 4C out of the e-tank late yesterday. Cleaned off most rust pretty well. Tried tightening it up... naada... Got out the sledge and managed to beat it closed 1 full turn which was like 1/4" of movement. Discovered there is a good thick layer of dirt/sand still on the slide inside the static housing. I could scrape it off with my fingernail but man...

Not sure if I should keep trying to beat the handle closed a couple more turns and see if that frees it up, or if I should work on pulling the handle and then try to beat the slide from the back to get it all the way out.

Heat wouldn't do jack in this situation, it's not rust that's gluing it together, it just dirt...

Thoughts / Suggestions?

Don't keep beating on it. If it is just dirt then it needs to come out. Wash it out somehow. Maybe even a pressure washer. If it is greasy then de-greaser, brake cleaner or whatever you can find. And just keep scraping. If you can get it of with a fingernail maybe you can get a better tool in there. As far as chemicals are concerned to clean it just remember it is basically just a lump or 2 of iron and impervious to almost anything you are likely to use. Caustic Soda (Lye) works an greasy messes. That is the active ingredient in most old school oven cleaners. I always keep some in the shop.

 

[drivesitfar]

Jason: I agree with the Captain. not much good happens when beating on an old tool with a big or bigger hammer. pressure washing is good idea and the 0 degree nosels can shoot through a 2 x 4 so be careful. or find a tool that can get the dirt out groove by groove by hand until it loosens up and comes apart. then you can proceed like i'm guessing you've done many many times. a few gallons of diesel in another tub like you did your E bath in might be another less hands on option if you can let it sit for a couple weeks.

good luck

i'm thinking somebody out there looking at this vise thread has a good idea on the ages and numbering system of Prentiss vises and I for one would be happy to know their system. David's list helps a lot to show information on a lot of them, but if anybody knows another spot or has a catalog to sell or share that would be awesome.

 

[BFBOB]

BFBOB, that little vise you bought and posted the pictures of, in post #12352, is nice. I have never seen one like it. The rear jaw sliding on the I-beam is sort of like it sliding on "V" ways, without gibs. Course, until I came across this forum, I never give much thought to a vise, other than it being a tool to hold an object with. I did know there were all kinds of sizes and shapes. But, I never gave them much thought, as long as they weren't too sloppy or broke. I hate trying to use a sloppy vise!!

Mule

Thanks! These vises are not high precision - as you point out, no gibs. And, from the factory the jaws were just left rough cast. There are several rough ones for sale now on fleaBay pretty cheap, and I have one beautifully restored, with the jaws ground true, not so cheap!

 

[BFBOB]

Pulled the Reed 4C out of the e-tank late yesterday. Cleaned off most rust pretty well. Tried tightening it up... naada... Got out the sledge and managed to beat it closed 1 full turn which was like 1/4" of movement. Discovered there is a good thick layer of dirt/sand still on the slide inside the static housing. I could scrape it off with my fingernail but man...


Thoughts / Suggestions?

Don't beat on it too hard!!
I found that the e-tank works much better for getting non-rust ylem off if you add some TSP (Tri sodium phosphate - any hardware store) to the mix. I saw this suggested somewhere, figured it couldn't hurt - after all, it's basically soap, and so is washing soda (well, soap additives anyway) The recipe goes something like a handful in a bunch of water; a couple of handfuls in a big bunch of water. I seemed to me to make a big improvement in degreasing and depainting.

***if you're using one of the electrolyte recipes that includes lye (sodium hydroxide, caustic soda) don't change the mix!!***

I'm using just washing soda (sodium carbonate, soda ash) and TSP.

 

[joe.striper]

E. B. Smith Co, Westfield Mass Patented Aug 1, 1865. its 200 miles from me so tough to get to. anyone seen one of these before? i'm trying to pick it up. asking $125. Made 5 miles from my house!

 

[drivesitfar]

I rescued this old Prentiss #4 from the scrap pile yesterday. it needs a vise nut that was sheared off somehow and a new jaw where the broken screws are still in the dynamic jaw. it has a swivel option which I really like and hopefully i'll get that action working correctly to once I figure out the other issues.

I started a thread on the restore since it's a fairly unique vise so check the progress or add your expertise and thoughts there or here if you wish to. I think I posted the link to it below or just search Prentiss #4.







i'll need a little luck on this restoration, but couldn't let it go to the scrap pile.

 

[skipskip]

E. B. Smith Co, Westfield Mass Patented Aug 1, 1865. its 200 miles from me so tough to get to. anyone seen one of these before? i'm trying to pick it up. asking $125. Made 5 miles from my house!

nice looking vise

EB Smith did furnaces and stoves, I didn't know they did vises too

 

[EOC_Jason]

Don't keep beating on it. If it is just dirt then it needs to come out. Wash it out somehow. Maybe even a pressure washer. If it is greasy then de-greaser, brake cleaner or whatever you can find. And just keep scraping. If you can get it of with a fingernail maybe you can get a better tool in there. As far as chemicals are concerned to clean it just remember it is basically just a lump or 2 of iron and impervious to almost anything you are likely to use. Caustic Soda (Lye) works an greasy messes. That is the active ingredient in most old school oven cleaners. I always keep some in the shop.

It's not grease that is the problem, it's like caked on dirt that is between the slide & body. I can scrape it with my fingernail I meant once it's exposed (After I moved the slide)... I'm sure there is also a fair amount of rust built-up under the dirt too.

I'll try a pressure washer, I'm already dirty from other work this morning. Will report back.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

It's not grease that is the problem, it's like caked on dirt that is between the slide & body. I can scrape it with my fingernail I meant once it's exposed (After I moved the slide)... I'm sure there is also a fair amount of rust built-up under the dirt too.

I'll try a pressure washer, I'm already dirty from other work this morning. Will report back.

Try taking it to a car wash and use the engine degreaser.

 

[wrenchguy]

put it in a camp fire? bad or ok?

 

[EOC_Jason]

Pressure washer didn't help, but now all the gunk is definitely off (the exposed area), and I did shove the nozzle in the back of the slide and more sand / dirt came out, always a good thing. Might give it one more try after I eat some lunch.

Next I'm going to work on getting the front set-screw out and the front collar off. If I can get the mainscrew out I can clean & grease it and have some decent force. Maybe if I heat up the main body some it will expand and help free the slide loose?

 

[G20-Budo]

Jason, I don't know if you'd tried but what about putting it in the freezer? That also might help it contract and pop lose.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I pressure washed it a 2nd time in the cracks as good as I could, still nothing. So I broke down and removed my other 4C from its mount (that was an ordeal in itself) and mounted the stuck one in its place.

Sprayed penetrating oil in all the cracks and on the screw and everywhere I could that would have things moving. Figured what the heck and tried to turn it by hand since now I could get all my weight on it. Sure enough it was really tough to turn but it was moving! I was a little hesitant because if I closed it all the way, what if I couldn't get it back open!?! I kept going though, each turn was progress after all. I could see the now exposed slide and it was just covered in dirt, caked on hard. After closing the slide all the way I tried a putty knife to scrape it off, then I thought, "Why am I dicking around like this?" and got the angle-grinder with a wire wheel. Even that took some effort but it slowly all came off. As I said before, I think someone dropped some dry quickrete on it and never cleaned it off. It was a major pain!!!

Okay, cleaned off the slide, went to try and open it. Slowly but surely it was opening, a lot less effort this time but still a fair amount of resistance. Then with about 2" of the slide sticking out the back it didn't want to open anymore! ACK!!! Closed it a bit to look at the slide and such, noticed some welding spatter globbed on in a few spots. Changed out the wire wheel for a flap-disk and ground them smooth. Slide opened up all the way nice and easy and pulled it out! WOOHOO!!!

It was DIRTY inside, it's literally like someone filled it with mud, then put the slide in. It is all full on the sides, and I can squish it with my finger, it's not rust it's dirt!

Now I just have to work on getting the base off, but that is another project for another day. It's going to need some acetylene on that center bolt & the lock-down to get it free. For now I'm going to pressure-wash the parts and stick the base/static half back in the e-tank so it can work on the bottom.

Still could not get the set-screw out that hold the front collar. I literally chipped the end off a screwdriver. I'll try some heat on it too but I'm afraid that is going to have to be drilled out. I even tried my impact driver with no luck.

 

[G20-Budo]

Wow, sounds like a beast of a vise to get cleaned. Congrats on getting it apart. Looking forward to pics. Good luck with the set screw in the front collar.

This is probably a silly question Jason, but how many vises does this make for you now?

 

[zoomieport]

E. B. Smith Co, Westfield Mass Patented Aug 1, 1865. its 200 miles from me so tough to get to. anyone seen one of these before? i'm trying to pick it up. asking $125. Made 5 miles from my house!

Here is the link to the patent for the vise.

It's actually H.B. Smith & Co., but the patentee is Mr. H.B. Dart.

Obviously, mine is missing the pipe jaws...

"Calling DR. Kevin Scott!!!" LOL!

http://www.datamp.org/patents/advance.php?id=17057&set=15

Take care!
ZOOM

 

[EOC_Jason]

This is probably a silly question Jason, but how many vises does this make for you now?

I have at least a dozen that I can count off the top of my head. There might be a couple more I'm forgetting about. I've also sold a couple, and given a couple to friends. I'm kind of picky, these days I try to look mostly for 5" or larger... *sometimes* 4.5"... rarely 4"... anything smaller I would never use. I don't abuse them, but I don't do gentle either... It's like why would I push the limits of a 4" when I could have all the gripping power I need with a 6"?

I've got several others I need to clean up, I don't know why I started with the one that was in the worst condition and heaviest. Should of finished the little 4" Reed 105 that's been sitting under the workbench disassembled for months.

Tried removing the bolt holding the base on the Reed 4C with my home-made angle-iron welded to a big nut, using a pneumatic impact. After fighting with it for a while I managed to break the welds on the nut... lol... So I had to re-weld that little shindig and grind it back so it would fit in the slot on the Reed. IIRC I think I can remove the main nut inside the static housing and see the top of the threads. Then I can spray some oil and let it soak that way. We'll see...

 

[bigcaddy]

I pressure washed it a 2nd time in the cracks as good as I could, still nothing. So I broke down and removed my other 4C from its mount (that was an ordeal in itself) and mounted the stuck one in its place.

Sprayed penetrating oil in all the cracks and on the screw and everywhere I could that would have things moving. Figured what the heck and tried to turn it by hand since now I could get all my weight on it. Sure enough it was really tough to turn but it was moving! I was a little hesitant because if I closed it all the way, what if I couldn't get it back open!?! I kept going though, each turn was progress after all. I could see the now exposed slide and it was just covered in dirt, caked on hard. After closing the slide all the way I tried a putty knife to scrape it off, then I thought, "Why am I dicking around like this?" and got the angle-grinder with a wire wheel. Even that took some effort but it slowly all came off. As I said before, I think someone dropped some dry quickrete on it and never cleaned it off. It was a major pain!!!

Okay, cleaned off the slide, went to try and open it. Slowly but surely it was opening, a lot less effort this time but still a fair amount of resistance. Then with about 2" of the slide sticking out the back it didn't want to open anymore! ACK!!! Closed it a bit to look at the slide and such, noticed some welding spatter globbed on in a few spots. Changed out the wire wheel for a flap-disk and ground them smooth. Slide opened up all the way nice and easy and pulled it out! WOOHOO!!!

It was DIRTY inside, it's literally like someone filled it with mud, then put the slide in. It is all full on the sides, and I can squish it with my finger, it's not rust it's dirt!

Now I just have to work on getting the base off, but that is another project for another day. It's going to need some acetylene on that center bolt & the lock-down to get it free. For now I'm going to pressure-wash the parts and stick the base/static half back in the e-tank so it can work on the bottom.

Still could not get the set-screw out that hold the front collar. I literally chipped the end off a screwdriver. I'll try some heat on it too but I'm afraid that is going to have to be drilled out. I even tried my impact driver with no luck.

By the time you clean all the crud and build up off that vise, its gonna be a 2C and not a 4C

 

[Hpozzuoli]

I have been eyeing this for a bit. What do you guys think about price and restoration. Interested in your opinions because I could use another vise.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/4277519127.html

 

[G20-Budo]

I have been eyeing this for a bit. What do you guys think about price and restoration. Interested in your opinions because I could use another vise.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/4277519127.html

I'm pretty new here to the vise scene, but from what I've seen that looks very high in price for what it is. I could be wrong? Do you know how big it is?

I'm sure the knowledgeable guys here will set you straight.

 

[zoomieport]

I have been eyeing this for a bit. What do you guys think about price and restoration. Interested in your opinions because I could use another vise.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/4277519127.html

Honestly...?

I think he's got a $100 (maybe) vise, with what he "considers" a $200 sticker on the side. Add them together and I guess it's worth $300...

Just a joke!

Take care!
ZOOM

 

[wrenchguy]

look at post 12346, seems like a good deal by the guys on here. in providence.
good luck

I have been eyeing this for a bit. What do you guys think about price and restoration. Interested in your opinions because I could use another vise.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/4277519127.html

 

[EOC_Jason]

I have been eyeing this for a bit. What do you guys think about price and restoration. Interested in your opinions because I could use another vise.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/4277519127.html

It's just a re-badged Wilton Tradesman... I agree with zoomie about the price.

By the time you clean all the crud and build up off that vise, its gonna be a 2C and not a 4C

Amazingly there is very little erosion, if anything there is more material from all the globs of weld spatter. The front meatball (the nose that the handle goes through) is so nice and amazingly smooth and flawless, except for like 5 or so small globs of weld spatter!!! Once I get it out of the dynamic jaw I'm going to take my time getting those filed down, I really don't want to ruin how nice and perfect it is.

I dumped my e-tank just so I could see how much "stuff" was in it... WOW... first the rebar rods were coated pretty good, first with a layer of red rust, then some green crusty gunk, and finally some black crud. After washing that off and wiping down I wire-wheeled them clean again and you can see how pitted they are now from the process. The bottom of the tank had a ton of red rust too and some of that green crusty gunk that came off the rebar rods.

 

[Hpozzuoli]

I appreciate the info. I called the owner to get the size etc and he hasn't called back.. I am going to pass on it. I could have made a $250-300 mistake. Thanks again guys.

 

[rt dak]

Finished up my first vise resto... Columbian 4". I have 2 more Columbians and my grandfather's Parker to do next.

 

[oldldh]

Ya Dun Gud, Bubba!!!

Nice little "Arrest Me Red" Columbian...

 

[PghJKB]

I picked up another one of these little I-beam one-inchers just because they're cute. This one, though has what appears to be a maker's mark. They all are stamped made in USA on one side of the I-beam; this one has a stamping on the other side too. At first I thought it was a large 17 and a small 6, but closer inspection and a little cleaning showed the 17 to actually be a trapezoid. It's keystone shaped... could that mean Pennsylvania?
Anyone have an idea who the manufacturer might be?
Thanks

BFBob
I have one of these guys as well. Jaws are the same size, but my markings are a little different. As with yours, the right side is "MADE IN U.S.A.", on the left side there is the trapezoid, but on the rail is an 11 and the moving jaw has a 19.

Being a PA native, the trapezoid is a poor substitute for our Keystone.... No idea of the manufacturer.

I have a thing for the rail vises (got "real" ones with 6, 4 and 3 inch jaws). So whenever I see them I pick them up. provided it is CHEAP.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

This is the tool thread so I thought I would post these. I was using gun cleaning brushes that wore out in no time. These stainless steel ones clean threads very well and a size for most any hole on a vise. Hope the link works
http://[url]http://www.ipatools.com/products/index.php/ipa-8080.html[/URL]