Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

[sakurama]

Today I came to the house to find the mess that I'd let accumulate in my rush to get it done. It's a sloppy way of working but at the same time I've never fully resolved the "where things go" in the garage so things tend to go everywhere. Makes me nuts.

So I tried to spend some time making space and putting things away and cleaning. It usually helps me get a project on track to clean and organize but today it just sort of depressed and overwhelmed me. I needed help in a big way and so I called in the cavalry - my friend Ben. He's an amazing friend and talented guy and more than anything he's good at getting things done where I'm good and taking a long time making things perfect. I needed the kick in the pants that a helping hand could give.

Ben showed up on his KTM 990 and showed me the proper use of a story stick (besides being a fantastic architect he was also a cabinet maker in school and did watch repair as well - talk about covering the gamut) and so we tore into my prefinished ply and knocked out my first kitchen cabinet base for the coffee station.

It helped a great deal to see some progress. It also helped to clean things up this morning as well. Friday is our trash day and since I've been a bad neighbor as far as lawn maintenance goes I try to spend an hour every Friday filling the compost bin with leaves and debris to try to make a dent in the mess.

After Ben left (I didn't get enough prefinished because I sort of forgot that I needed a bottom on my cabinets... Doh!) I decided to swap the door direction on the refrigerator. It's not an American refrigerator for sure - it took about two hours to swap all the various parts across. It didn't help that my very last screw cross threaded and I had to drill it out and then clean the threads up.

Tomorrow I'll go pick up some more prefinished ply and build the two boxes on either side of the stove and on Monday Ben will hopefully come out and lend a hand working on the peninsula. I need to spend some time learning how to inset that fancy Karran sink into the counter - it's not a simple thing. Oh, and I need to order a pitcher rinser for the coffee bar. That will be a great touch.

Gregor

 

[YoungMedic]

Ben showed up on his KTM 990 ... being a fantastic architect he was also a cabinet maker in school and did watch repair

What a friend! Sounds like an awesome guy to have around

 

[polexican23]

that is a tall skinny fridge. gonna have to put the beer on the top shelf since the lady of the house probably couldn't reach it and make it a useful shelf for her.

Onto serious matters. I can understand using the Kreg holes on the outside when the outside will **** up against another cabinet or covered by an applicane, but why have you chosen not to put them on the inside of the exposed cabinets?

I just got a kreg and figured I might try my hand at designing, make better use and fix our small pantry.

 

[sakurama]

What a friend! Sounds like an awesome guy to have around

Yes. There's no way I could have done all this without his help. He's guided me along the way and helped me with permits and drawings. Great friend indeed.

Gregor

 

[JimL]

Interested in seeing the kitchen sink, I plan on using a karran sink in my kitchen fairly soon….

 

[sakurama]

Interested in seeing the kitchen sink, I plan on using a karran sink in my kitchen fairly soon….

Well, I'll take lots of photos and hope to have it in by next week. 2014...

 

[coma13]

...He's an amazing friend and talented guy and more than anything he's good at getting things done where I'm good and taking a long time making things perfect. I needed the kick in the pants that a helping hand could give...

Man... I need to get a friend like this... My bikes seem to never get finished because nothing is ever good enough. Always time to remake or redo.

 

[stumpy-blair]

hey bud , ...is it weird that I want to know what pants you are wearing in the fridge pic? ...I think they are carhartts? .... we don't get a lot of that clothing in New Zealand .... but they are pretty cool looking ...
cheers mate

 

[justbummin1]

:supergay:

 

[stumpy-blair]

i know , I know .....I was gunna start it off with "is it gay if..... " but I know reactions to some some stuff in the good ol usa can escalate quickly .... so was asking in the PC way .....

 

[964haus]

My friend Ben has a 990 also and he's recently done his water pump and was remarking what a pain it is to work on. I've said it before but KTM's are like ****** strippers with a coke habit - huge fun to ride but no fun to take care of.

Ha! I'd have to agree.....funny thing is, I'm just prepping to do the water pump on the 950, something I've been dreading but just about psychologically prepared for.....

A GJ KTM meet sounds like a must.

M.

 

[sakurama]

:supergay:

Oh no, I work as a photographer in NYC - I'm constantly surrounded by "gay" and I just love them. I swear every gay guy I know is happier than every hetero. I mean, they don't have to deal with women - it makes perfect sense.

But, the pants are Mascots. They're German and I went through a lot of different pants before I settled on these. Blaklader and Bjornlader we're too fussy but well made. I had Carrharts but I just blow through the knees in a month. These have pads for the knees which is nice for when you're doing floor or roof. I actually use them on shoots now because of the pockets and pads. They're great. They have the right amount of pockets in the right spots and fit great. It's what I buy now. It helps that our local lumber store carries them and they cost about the same as the Carrharts.

Umm, but yeah, that was a gay question!

Gregor

 

[neilc]

Gregor -

New to GF and have been following this thread. I heard about it from the Festool forum. Outstanding work.

I think you'll like the CMS. I have one having used a different router table in the past. Dust collection is excellent. I have not found micro adjustment of the fence to be an issue. I did not have it on my last router table (Jessum) and I have not missed it on this one. But if you come up with an idea, share it and we can all benefit!

Keep up the great work.

neil

 

[jdp993]

Gregor, great work as always. You may be a perfectionist but you sure seem to get a lot done too.

It has been a couple of weeks since I had a chance to catch up on your thread and you have done a lot of work in that time. In the photo of your drawer sides I notice the dado for the bottom is pretty deep, about halfway through. I had a little bit better luck with heavily loaded drawers keeping the dado slightly more shallow, no more than a third of the way through. Not meant as a criticism in any way, just my experience in making plywood drawers.

Over the years I have made plywood drawers in similar manner to yours. The first ones had nails where you are using domino's. Later I used dowels. All of the drawers have lasted along time. The way you are building your drawers with domino's is really stout. They should stand up to about anything.

Another variation of the drawer joint is the one shown below that adds a dado. This is my kitchen junk drawers that I made 20 years ago and all these drawers have held up reasonably well. When I was building the kitchen cabinets I was trying to get them done as fast as possible so I wanted to eliminate the added doweling step.

Keep up the great work. Every time I need a little motivation to get my projects done I take a look at one of your threads.

JP

 

[Vince1955]

Gregor, I was going to relax and watch a movie this evening, but came upon your thread instead. So much hard work and effort toward details. Very enjoyable. Resurrecting a beautiful design and work of a notable architect is more than noble. It's the right thing to do. Thank you for sharing.

 

[boatmark]

Had to catch up on a week or so I missed . . .

Reasuring to know I'm not the only one facing washers and indexing fasteners. I cut my teeth years ago with raceboats, and that kind of stuff is just automatic at this point. Don't get me started on wire run bundles having to have all wires straight, and not cross over each other . . . . .

One suggestion. I like the way you cut the drawer backs in the bathroom to clear the drain piping. You may want to build a "dam" inside the drawer to isolate the area the pipe occupies when the drawer is closed. Without it you risk someone filling the drawer too full (usually with something fun like shampoo) and when it hits the drain. If the person says "I'll just push harder and it will fit" the drawer goes in, the shampoo bottle explodes, and everything is the drawer is soup. (ask me how I know this!)

 

[onething]

Between supper last night and lunch today, I read the whole thing

Amazing skill, taste, and tenacity.

I learned so much from your descriptions and photos.

I can't imagine why this hasn't made the front page yet.



Obviously subscribed

 

[OHSCrifle]

Another variation of the drawer joint is the one shown below that adds a dado. This is my kitchen junk drawers that I made 20 years ago and all these drawers have held up reasonably well. When I was building the kitchen cabinets I was trying to get them done as fast as possible so I wanted to eliminate the added doweling step.

This and Gregor's drawer box joinery reminds me of a brilliant machined rectangular (steel) tube frame joint, meant to be folded then welded, as discussed here:

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/exocet-xp-3/66618/page1/

It is discussed by the thread author and some dude with my user name, about eight responses into the topic.

(Caution: time mysteriously disappears over there. I warned you)

Edit: clarity

 

[sakurama]

I didn't post last night because I came home and and had a glass of wine. Well, maybe two, but I can't remember because I fell asleep on the couch. I think it's the constant lifting of the plywood sheets but I'm whipped.

I had another glass tonight and a large bowl of pasta so I may trail off at any moment...

...but I digest.

Here's a thing I discovered that turns out to be super helpful when cross cutting the rips for the cabinets. The wings for the Kapex miter saw attach to the MFT table and can aid in support of super long sheets. And yes, there's a lot of dust on the ground for being a fully Festool workshop. The trouble is I have two vacs but one is in the living room where I make my rips and the other is in the garage for all the other tools. I try to remember to swap hoses but inevitably I forget to for the first cut or two and well, there you go.

Yesterday I finished the two cabinet bases against the wall in the kitchen. It was enough. I used a laser to "scribe" a level line throughout the kitchen based on the first cabinet we put in. The floor isn't level and while my bases are level there's still discrepancies and I want the counter tops to be all the same height.

Even with a second set of hands it's difficult to keep the prefinished from wandering when you go to pocket drill the supports. It's very slippery so I use two Kreg clamps and then today I started including domino's to help keep things aligned.

A tight domino in the front of the panel serves to keep the front perfectly aligned with the base and the back domino is in a wider mortise (the machine offers three mortise widths) so it acts more like a biscuit joiner in that it aligns in only one dimension. That helps keep the pocket screws from creeping as they're being driven - something that really bugs me about pocket screws.

Finally today I had a brilliant idea (well, relatively speaking) to solve a problem I've been mulling over for months. I've never wanted the counter to project into the room but to end at the line created by the wall in front of the kitchen. The trouble with that is that the counter would then only have about 6 inches of space for your knees and we wanted that to be a place for the kids to watch mom (and me) cook and for guests to hang out. Today I hit on the idea of simply banking the back of the cabinet. It's much wider than it needs to be to hold the plumbing behind the drawers but the top would be just wasted space.

The side facing the living room (the left in this shot) is going to be a facade of 1/2" walnut on top of another 1/2" sheet of shop grade ply that will give the boxes strength. I tested the idea with the step stool and it gives just enough knee room that you can scoot right up to the counter. And it's a cool detail. Form follows function.

And this is as far as I got before I ran out of pocket screws. I actually bought a bunch, but of the wrong size so I installed the water line in the refrigerator, leveled it up and then installed the four pounds of lint and kids toys that are behind every refrigerator - I'm thinking one step ahead!

I'm really aiming for counters and sinks this week. Judiaann has agreed to move in if we have those and the working bathrooms so I'm pushing hard as I can.

Gregor

PS When I went to the lumber yard to pick up more pre finished plywood they had some spalted maple and I've been really intrigued by this wood since the first time I've seen it.

I spent way too much time studying the grain in these two pieces as they looked like some sort of aerial photography or a detailed topo map - both things I dearly love. In the end I bought them without a clear idea of what I was going to use them for but I'm happy to let the idea simmer for a while - I've got plenty of things to deal with right now.

 

[sakurama]

This and Gregor's drawer box joinery reminds me of a brilliant machined rectangular (steel) tube frame joint, meant to be folded then welded...

That was a time **** of a thread. Cool. Every day I hope and pray that I don't get interested in more than motorcycles and target shooting - and this house. I'm at my limit of interest right now.

The joint I'd been considering is similar - the Lock Miter Joint.

But I'm in my groove and happy with my method right now so I'm saving that for another project down the road.

Gregor

 

[YoungMedic]

I spent way too much time studying the grain in these two pieces as they looked like some sort of aerial photography or a detailed topo map - both things I dearly love. In the end I bought them without a clear idea of what I was going to use them for but I'm happy to let the idea simmer for a while - I've got plenty of things to deal with right now.

This is speaking to me, it says "serve delicious craft brews and small batch bourbons on me"

Cant you see a nice old fashioned glass with 2 fingers of neat bourbon reflecting in the sun on it?

 

[rvieceli]

Gregor

On the dust problem... You have two mostly fixed stations with the Kapex and the CMS. Both operations like the vac at full blast for dust collection, so you don't really need the fancy adjustable suction of the Festool vacs.

Grab a couple of these auto switches from Sears or Rockler or Amazon:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-auto-switch/p-00924031000P
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ELWUWG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Throw a generic shop vac with a bag under those spots and forget about changing the hose all the time. Save the Festools for the TS or sanding.

 

[sakurama]

That's a good idea. I need another vac for cleaning chips off the lathe and mill and I don't want that oily metal mess in my Festool vacs so I was planning on picking up a cheap shop vac for that and car cleaning.

Gregor

 

[Panel Dan]

This is speaking to me, it says "serve delicious craft brews and small batch bourbons on me"

Cant you see a nice old fashioned glass with 2 fingers of neat bourbon reflecting in the sun on it?

You're not the only one who can see that.


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[Baroquenstrings]

I came across this thread over the weekend accidentally and decided to come back to it last night. I spent 4 hours then and 2 hours just now reading this entire time **** of a thread! You have my utmost respect on your craftsmanship and artistry and your house and skills are VERY inspiring! I live over in Vancouver and just bought my first house a year ago which was built in 1969. While it's not as beautiful as yours is turning into, I'm going for a mid-century overall look and will need to completely redo the kitchen at some point with an eye toward what you've done with your garage cabinets. Although I'm not as talented as you, I can hold things and throw things away for you! Things like beer (yours or mine, but mostly mine- coffee too.) I'm also good at observing and listening too! I promise I won't say, "that looks great, but you know what would look really good?" Seriously, if you need an extra hand, I'd love to help! Anyway, I'll be following this closely and would love to see this in person for the garage warming party.

My thoughts are with you and Jorge. I work in law enforcement and can see both sides of the issue. It seems he's been a great asset to you and the community and I hope things work out for him. I'm working with a kid who's in the same predicament that I really would like see get to stay here. Our system isn't perfect at all, but it's the best in the world right now. Unfortunately, many people (including the peripherals) can get screwed in the process which is very sad...

 

[Skyline]

Love your progress so far. I do have a question about all the pocket screws.

It seems you are using them everywhere, even in places where a screw head from the opposite direction would not be seen, such as up against another cabinet or a wall. I would think in those situations, a regular counter-sunk screw would be stronger, as it could have 1-1/2" or more of threads to grab the other piece, instead of about 1/2". For example, the hole that the Kreg clamp on the right is in...that is clearly holding the top piece to the back of the cabinet. That pair of holes could have been done from the back in conventional fashion with a 2" countersunk screw...and be much stronger.

 

[sideroad]

Gregor, I really like the domino drawer. Could be the new/classic joint. I may borrow an aspect of your idea. If only I could justify the domino cutter over my barely used biscuit cutter. Looking to do a 2.7m x 9m wall of storage and bench. Was going to do pigeon holes, but having doors would sure help keep the dust out and super shallow drawers are so much better then all my cluttered standard ones. May do units over the lathe and mill as well, good use of space.

I need to get it all against the side wall, similar to your Back wall.


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[sakurama]

I came across this thread over the weekend accidentally ...Anyway, I'll be following this closely and would love to see this in person for the garage warming party.

I'm seriously hoping to be close enough this week that we can actually move in in a few weeks and have a good garage party when it's warm. Be careful - I may take you up on an offer to help!

Love your progress so far. I do have a question about all the pocket screws.

It seems you are using them everywhere, even in places where a screw head from the opposite direction would not be seen, such as up against another cabinet or a wall. I would think in those situations, a regular counter-sunk screw would be stronger, as it could have 1-1/2" or more of threads to grab the other piece, instead of about 1/2". For example, the hole that the Kreg clamp on the right is in...that is clearly holding the top piece to the back of the cabinet. That pair of holes could have been done from the back in conventional fashion with a 2" countersunk screw...and be much stronger.

You know when I first started on the garage cabinets it was suggested that I drill and screw straight in like you mention. It's the most straightforward way to fasten two boards short of nails I guess. So I did it for a lot of the garage cabinets and I'd guess that about 20% or so would strip or rip or split the ply - especially if you were close to the edge. I wouldn't say that I'm a pocket screw fan but I will say that they rarely split or strip because they're not driving straight into end grain but at an angle. It could also be that we were just into a pocket screw rhythm and it seemed easier to just keep drilling them than look for the drill/counter sink. Another reason is they have a larger washer head than a typical countersunk screw so they're less likely to pull through.

If it makes you feel better I am planning on screwing the 1/2" sheathing into my stretchers just straight in. Then I'll finish nail the walnut into that.

First though, I have to sort out my plumbing under the sink.

Gregor

 

[Skyline]

To avoid splitting the wood when you drill into the edge, make sure you drill the pilot hole as deep as the screw. Also, a very good trick to reduce the stress on the wood as your drive the screw is to keep a bar of Ivory soap on hand. Rub the threads of the screw into the soap before driving it in. It will reduce the effort to drive the screw quite noticeably. Also, if you are using a screw with a shank, make sure the pilot hole also has the same shank bore.

I know you love great woodworking tools; a great tool for pre-drilling countersunk holes is made by Makita. They sell quick change drill bits that flip to reveal a bit driver. The pilot bit can be adjusted to desired depth, and once the hole is drilled, there's a quick release on the bit, and it swaps ends so you can drive the screw, (without un-chucking from your drill). You can buy these bits individually or in a set with four different sizes.

 

[sakurama]

I knew about soap but completely forgot. Good tips. I'll put them in action today.

Gregor

 

[bp460]

Gregor,

Thank you for taking the time to share your journey.

I use beeswax to lube screws. One wax toilet bowl ring will last a lifetime.
I store it pressed into a shallow plastic jar with a screw lid. Just lightly dip
the tip of the screw... clean and simple.

-Brad

 

[transplant_wi]

I have been following this thread with great interest, and it has already cost me quite a bit as I have now dipped my toes into Festool waters

I agree on the lock miter joint for drawers and use it for all my 1/2" baltic birch drawer boxes. It's a tricky one to set-up just right, so I saved an offcut for a front/back and side piece to use for setup next time around.

 

[sideroad]

I have found the pure bees wax to be the best. (My grandfather used to wipe nails and screws through his brill cream hair do.) Only down side I have found with waxes is that if I apply too much on the screw I may have an issue with wax around the screw head when doing a stain or clear coat. Looking forward to seeing your kitchen build Gregor. I think your standard of liveable is far higher then most owner builders over here in oz. have know families to move in before wall sheeting.


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[9C1]

Soap will absorb and hold moisture. Not good for the fastener or the finish.
Stick with wax either bees wax or paraffin for fastener lubrication.
Terry

 

[sakurama]

So when Ben came over to help me with the cabinets we were sort of stumped by why the floor and the peninsula weren't really square. I chalked it up to lots of things in the house not being square but then today I went to screw the cabinets down and as Ben suggested I measured them off the boxes/back wall of the kitchen and... things weren't square.

Hmm.

After some time with a laser and a lot of measuring I realized that when I set the bases I squared them to the wall they projected from - which wasn't square. In fact I am now remembering that when we were knocking out the cast iron vent/drain from said wall we used a rather big sledge hammer which might explain things. Hmm.

So after copious measurements off the back wall I recut the flooring, but this time square to the wall, and then moved the cabinet bases into square. Suddenly it was square with the floor! It was square to the cabinets. It was just plain square. Heck yeah.

Yeah.

So then I reset the cabinet bases, mocked up a counter top and measured the distances and checked the function of the angle I did. It worked great. Just enough knee room to tuck in and I'm very happy with the solution.

Next up was setting one of the Karran Edge sinks. You basically find the position of the sink and trace it to the bottom of the counter with one 1/8th to clear. Here's the Karran video if you're interested.

Cut out the shape which is 1/8" larger than the sink and then set it upside down on a work surface and add the build up (second layer of MDF to make the counter 1-1/2" thick) and overlap it on the sink edge by 3/4" so the sink is supported.

Flip it over the right side up and check that the sink is just proud of the MDF by 1/32". If it's not they suggest using screws to lift it to the right height. See the video.

Here's where it gets interesting/different. With the sink/counter right side up mix up some bondo and force it into that 1/8" gap and spread it around the edge.

Then use a belt sander to smooth/flatten the Bondo and sink edge to the MDF so it's all flat.

Then...

Then it got dark, my throat was sore and I decided that in order to not screw up the last part of the setting of the sink I should do it in the morning. So it's wine time. And Advil time. And dinner time.

Gregor

 

[YoungMedic]

Here's where it gets interesting/different. With the sink/counter right side up mix up some bondo and force it into that 1/8" gap and spread it around the edge.

Then use a belt sander to smooth/flatten the Bondo and sink edge to the MDF so it's all flat.

Gregor

Something I would have NEVER considered using bondo for. That is awesome!

 

[Dr Klaun]

Have been enjoying this thread! I'm glad you found prefinished ply, as that makes things go so much faster!

For the S.S. sink, one detail I've done in the past is to add a couple of layers of the "Dynamat" type sound deadening material used for cars around the outside and under the bottom. This will take away the metallic / tinny sound from the running water or hitting it with pots and pans, regardless the gauge of material.

Also - most of your surfaces in the main living area seem to be of the "hard" variety which will make this space pretty lively in a acoustical sense. Not sure if you've thought about that (or care)...

I've had a couple of open floor plan houses (have one now!) and appreciate "quiet" appliances and fixtures in the main living area with the din of kids, music and other general noise.

 

[fastev]

Fantastic thread Gregor! I spent many years "in the trade" and did a handful of mid century refurbs. This thread is inspiring to say the least, and it certainly rekindles my love for this style of house. My wife and I have our eye on an Eichler locally, should anything happen I will certainly be referencing your thread...
I had not seen the Karran sinks before. I am REALLY diggin' them, my bathroom is about to go under the knife-- or SawzAll as it were-- and will definitely have to do some more research on them. I assume they work equally well with a solid surface counter top. I'll will be doing some more research...
Thanks for posting, it is a treat to follow the progress!

 

[Vertigo Cycles]

Of all the forums I regularly visit to feed my information addiction (motorbikes, pedal bikes, machine tools) this has been the most enjoyable. Outstanding work.

 

[sakurama]

Have been enjoying this thread! I'm glad you found prefinished ply, as that makes things go so much faster!

For the S.S. sink, one detail I've done in the past is to add a couple of layers of the "Dynamat" type sound deadening material used for cars around the outside and under the bottom.

Thanks. That's a good tip. I'm going to do that when its time to button it up.

Of all the forums I regularly visit to feed my information addiction (motorbikes, pedal bikes, machine tools) this has been the most enjoyable. Outstanding work.

Thanks Sean. I look forward to sharing a beer with you in the garage after an epic 990 ride this spring.

_ _ _ ______________________________________ _ _ _​

So today I feel like I'm hitting the wall. I used to run the mile and the first lap was fine, full of hope, the second hurt and the third really hurt but the last lap was all guts and pure pain. When you come to the last corner your legs flail, your lungs sear and your vision narrows into just your lane. All you can see is the finish line.

That's how I feel right now. I'm so focused on the finish line, moving in, that I'm neglecting everything else and I feel a sloppy franticness to just get **** done. I don't like it. I feel rushed. I feel overwhelmed. It's of my own making though because I've been begging Judiaann to move in and she finally agreed and we set a date to move in the week after next and I'm going all out to get the minimum done to move in.

God bless Ben though as he came out again today to help me lift the big counter so I could get moving on that.

Sadly my dad can't help much but like Garfield he just loves watching work.

The big sink is big - 30" and I'm really glad I didn't go with the 32" but it set just fine.

I'm very curious to finally get laminate on the counter and see how the sink looks.

So the thing I spent time on today was trying to figure out the termination of the counter to the wall. My original idea was that the counter would come down from the ceiling, go across the peninsula and then waterfall to the floor at the end. The trouble with grand ideas is that they never really take into account the messy realities of things like out of square walls or non co-planer surfaces. Which is what I have to solve with that return. I want to say **** it but I'm convinced it was a good idea and I owe it to my one year younger self to see the idea through.

Gregor