In my 30 year experience as a plumber,Watts Regulator Co. makes very good stuff and I like the model FHB-1 for it's metal handle and ruggedness.Try a plumbing wholesaler in your town.Ferguson should have them.
I've had the Watts fail, and mostly buy B&K Mueller now, because that's the best I can find locally. They too fail.
The plastic cap on the vacuum breaker on one craked when exposed to the sun. When they were using beige plastic knobs, those cracked the same way.
The metal knobs are much better, and they're now chrome plating the plastic vacuum breaker caps from what I've seen. I believe that will fare better in UV exposure, but I've also had the packing seal on these fail and leak out the stem (not on a Watts I believe, but I don't recall for sure). That was a formed rubber part that I couldn't source a replacement for (and tightening did not fix), so I replaced the whole thing.
Hey I'm a hunt and peck typist forgive my misspelled word eh ?.
The very reason these freeze is the home owner won,t remove the hose in the fall. That does not make the FF Hydrant bad , it is doing exactly what it's designed to do . Again properly installed and taking the hose off eliminated problems.
I forgive you. Not trying to be persnickety, just a minor correction that was hardly worth making.
I'm one who takes my hoses off, and blows them out. And I still had a valve fail last year. Like I said, I'm not sure what happened, but I know it was installed at a sufficient angle for it to drain properly. If not, the body of the valve would have split. It didn't, but the seat started leaking. That's not fixable with a ceramic seat, but HD exchanged it for me when I explained that a Frost Free valve should last at least one winter (it was only a few months old when it failed).
BTW, I wouldn't count on that 5 star review on Amazon. There are only 2 reviewers.
Oh, and I took another look at that specific valve, and it isn't one I would buy. That one has a 3/4" MIP / 1/2" FIP end.
I prefer the ones that have 1/2" MIP / sweat ends (again, never sweat them). The 3/4" MIP's hex end requires a much larger hole drilled in the wall that will show behind the escutcheon. You can get away with a smaller hole that hides well with the 1/2" MIP versions.
Look closely at the picture, and you'll see how much the hex sticks out from the body of the valve.
Now if you're replacing a valve where there's a 3/4" FIP or 1/2" MIP fitting already there, then by all means, get what fits.