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Morton/Steel Home Questions

m5askqu5

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Jan 18, 2014
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5
I'm new here. I've read a few threads, but still have questions. We're looking into a Morton style home. We have four children, will need five bedrooms, three baths. Is it less expensive to build everything on one level and have a 90' long home (which I think is somewhat too long) or build a basement with a few bedrooms in it? Anyone build one of these? We're in KS. Cheaper to go with a kit from a place like Kodiak or buy from a local to put up the shell and go from there? Care to share your cost/sq ft? I've read $75 is a good average. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Sims5

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Dec 20, 2013
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Mount Vernon, OH
Usually cheaper to go up than it is out. Smaller footprint, with multiple stories. Depending on your needs you might go with a shop on one end of pole barn with 16' walls and do two stories on the other end.

MSD Shop is building a 60x100x16 with a loft right now. Might give ya some ideas to check out his build in the garage gallery section. It's going to be a beautiful place when he's done.
 

AZ Pete

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Aug 15, 2011
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Central Arizona
Depends where you live also. Some geographic areas don't have basements, so contractors are not prepared to build them, so charge a lot. Others traditionally do, and the basements are pretty cheap square footage.
 

readhead

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Dec 8, 2012
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Durango, Co.
Does Morton build the whole house or just put up a shell and then you need to finish it?
Who produces the plans for permitting?
 
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m5askqu5

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Jan 18, 2014
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When I say "Morton" I'm simply referring to the style of the home. It's a local place that has the same type of structure, just without the brand name. But they're good, have a good rep.

We can do a basement. They're pretty popular around here. Just didn't know if it was cost effective to dig down and build one floor on a basement or build out or build up.

And the company simply dries it in. I got an estimated bid for $32/sq ft for the shell (roof, siding all metal), windows and doors (good quality) and the living area he said to figure $75/sq ft for a good average. Don't need granite or anything fancy, just nice and simple. The estimate was for them to put it up too, so labor included. I drew up the plans I'd like, sent them to the company for a quick estimate. Have to meet with them to figure out all the details obviously, but would have to have a contractor help us out. We're not builders, would hire 90% of it. My hubby can do the electrical, I can paint. That's about it.
 

Helipilot

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Dec 20, 2012
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31
You might take at "hangar homes" for some ideas. I have built several 60' x 60' hangar homes with the aircraft hangar on the bottom floor and the home above. A 60' x 60' provides 3,600 square feet of home above the hangar /shop/playroom/hobby room/or anything you want it to be. I am a licensed Residential/Commercial contractor.

Typically, the upstairs is finished in a high quality format and provides a lot of room in an open floor plan. You can also add walk-out balconies that will be about 14' above the ground. The hangar homes are typically a "Morton Building" type shell. I agree with the idea of a basement since it will provide shelter in the event of bad weather.

Good Luck in your search for the best solution for you and your family.
 
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tomroblee

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Jan 11, 2006
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446
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Indiapolis, IN
I'm not from Kansas, so I don't understand what you mean by "Morton style home" or your reference to "Kodiak".

In my part of the county (Indiana) Morton is a post frame (pole barn) builder. The main advantage to post frame construction is that it avoids the need (and cost) of a continuous perimeter foundation.

Since a basement is just a deep foundation, there just isn't much, if any, advantage to post frame construction.

If you are just interested in having the pole barn look of metal siding and a metal roof, there is no particular reason to use post frame construction.

In conventional construction, it is usually cheaper to go up or down rather than out. A 90 foot long house will also be more expensive to heat and cool than a much shorter house with a basement and/or second floor.

If you go with a single floor house, are you intending it to be on a slab?
 

Gasgt1

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Dec 23, 2013
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100 miles SW of Chicago
Being in KS, the thought of a basement in tornado season is a definite consideration.

We recently lived through a tornado and will always have a basement.

Greg
 
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Whirnot

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Jan 6, 2014
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Bend OR. and Greeley CO.
Pole structures also have trusses on wide spacing, typically 8 foot. That is another cost advantage. I have never seen one done with a basement, though. I would check and see how many they have done. Typically the ground serves as a major structure to keep the poles straight. If you lose one side due to the basement, that changes things. will definitely need to be engineered. FWIW, a Building that is as close to square as possible, and is designed on 4 foot increments is the most cost effective to build and live in.
 
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m5askqu5

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Jan 18, 2014
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Thanks...up than out is cheaper meaning up from a basement or up from the main level to a second story?
 

tdkkart

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Jun 17, 2006
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Eastern Iowa
The thing that I see about these is that the resale value tends to be low. We see a few of these around here, some done up very nicely, but they always seem to be a tough sell.
I can point to several that sat for sale for a long time before selling. One nicely done one here was for sale off and on for 3 or 4 years, finally sold on auction for much less than a comparable "normal" home.

Been there, done that, with tornado's also. Been TOO close too many times to not have a basement available.
 

rieferman

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May 18, 2009
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Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
Post frame works just fine with a basement and foundation system. No problems at all.

Some of the key advantages of agriculture-level post-frame (which is what many/most people are familiar with) is that they generally use lower grade materials are are fast to build and therefore cheaper per square foot than any other building method.

When you're talking about high end post-frame (which is used to build homes, medical centers, fire stations etc.) the level of materials used is same as any other high end style of construction, and usually entails some method of preventing posts from rotting in the ground (either sleeves or perma-columns) or the posts are set in brackets on a foundation wall. The main advantages in this case are speed of construction, strength of the structure, design and future rennovation/addition flexibility, and (most importantly in my opinion) great HVAC conditions... less thermal breaks in your insulation, plus thick wall cavities allows for excellent R-value. I sold and project managed a 2 story structure with workshop below and living above that could be heated with a candle and cooled with an ice cube. The HVAC team that we brought in had to re-run their model to downsize the system. The inspector was impressed.

Anyways, back to the topic of basement or no basement. Personally, if lot space doesn't restrict your footprint, I'm of the mindset of going a bit bigger at ground level and avoiding any potential basement headaches (radon, mold, flooding). In addition to those common problems, I find basements dark and dank when compared to above-ground areas of a home. Also, less stairs is always nice. Just my opinion.
 

tomroblee

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Jan 11, 2006
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Indiapolis, IN
If you are just after the appearance of the homes shown in your pictures, I don't think that there would be much difference in the cost of post frame versus conventional construction.

You will save money by going up and/or down rather than going out. I don't really know whether basement space would be cheaper than second story space or not. I would think that it would depend on the lay of your land and your design considerations. Your pictures show dormers on the second floor. Those add complexity and cost to the structure. If you have bedrooms in the basement, you are going to have to provide a means for escape in case of a fire. This may be fairly cheap and easy to design if your lot is on a slope and you can have a walkout basement. It may be somewhat more expensive if your land is flat and you need to put in egress window wells in multiple locations.

Having a smaller footprint house with both a basement and second floor will can make the cost and efficiency of plumbing and HVAC systems much better. Our present home in the city has a tankless water heater in the garage---which is on the far end of the home from the master bathroom. To get a warm shower in the morning we need to let the hot water run about five minutes before we step into the shower. If the house is built on a slab, the heating and cooling ducts will likely be located in unconditioned space in the attic. Having long HVAC runs in unconditioned space is not efficient.

It's hard to talk about costs per square foot without some clarification. In our area, real estate agents quote a price per square foot by dividing the asking price of a house (including lot, utilities, garage, driveway, sidewalks, etc.) by the square footage of living area. Do your estimates include the cost of your lot, site preparation, concrete flatwork, utilities, permits, porches, garages, etc.?
 
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m5askqu5

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Jan 18, 2014
Messages
5
If you are just after the appearance of the homes shown in your pictures, I don't think that there would be much difference in the cost of post frame versus conventional construction.

You will save money by going up and/or down rather than going out. I don't really know whether basement space would be cheaper than second story space or not. I would think that it would depend on the lay of your land and your design considerations. Your pictures show dormers on the second floor. Those add complexity and cost to the structure. If you have bedrooms in the basement, you are going to have to provide a means for escape in case of a fire. This may be fairly cheap and easy to design if your lot is on a slope and you can have a walkout basement. It may be somewhat more expensive if your land is flat and you need to put in egress window wells in multiple locations.

Having a smaller footprint house with both a basement and second floor will can make the cost and efficiency of plumbing and HVAC systems much better. Our present home in the city has a tankless water heater in the garage---which is on the far end of the home from the master bathroom. To get a warm shower in the morning we need to let the hot water run about five minutes before we step into the shower. If the house is built on a slab, the heating and cooling ducts will likely be located in unconditioned space in the attic. Having long HVAC runs in unconditioned space is not efficient.

It's hard to talk about costs per square foot without some clarification. In our area, real estate agents quote a price per square foot by dividing the asking price of a house (including lot, utilities, garage, driveway, sidewalks, etc.) by the square footage of living area. Do your estimates include the cost of your lot, site preparation, concrete flatwork, utilities, permits, porches, garages, etc.?

The quote included the floor (cement), structure, walls, roof, doors and windows and labor. We already own the land, it's a longer, more narrow, rectangular field, 8 acres. Flat. I'm thinking basement with two bedrooms, bath, storage and great room (walkout) and main floor with three bedrooms, two bath, amongst the rest of the house.
 

chads2slow

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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
85
Location
Indianola ia
I built this style of house. I went out because I didn't want stairs and the cost of the basement was an expensive option. I put an all block safe room in the middle of the structure for tornados.
 
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