Help me choose Splices & Terminals

[wilf]

Hey folks, I have a large wiring project for my car and need your help choosing splices and terminals.

I need something that is:

• Compact
• Non-insulated
• Easy to use
• Affordable in large quantities

For these reasons I'm leaning towards open barrel splices

rather than **** splices

(good decision?). I found what looks like a good source (onlinecomponents.com), but I'm having difficulty deciding what to get...

(for the full datasheet click here}

Among these, what would be your recommended:
1. Style? (smooth or with ridges, with or w/o insulation support)
2. Material? (tin or nickel plated brass? steel?)
3. Size? I ask this because I don't know if the "wire range" rating is for 1 wire or 2. For instance, could I use the top item, #63834-1, to connect TWO 1,100 CMA wires? Or must they CONJOINTLY measure 1,100 CMA?

Thanks for your time!

 

[kmkalf]

Tell us What you are planning to do with the wiring so you will get better results. Terminals range greatly depending on weither it is for lights or back up camera etc

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

 

[theoldwizard1]

The majority of automotive wiring harness splices use NO mechanical crimps ! Simply a minimum of 1½ twist of bared copper wire. They also use friction tape (cloth based tape with a non drying adhesive). I prefer marine heat shrink.

Automotive/low voltage Splicing and Tapping (or I HATE Scotchloks !)

Hey folks, I have a large wiring project for my car and need your help choosing splices and terminals.
.
.
.
For these reasons I'm leaning towards open barrel splices

rather than **** splices

(good decision?).

When I do use **** splices, I prefer the the closed barrel style (Tycp/AMP Solistrand). See previous link.

Make sure you are using the proper crimper/die for those open barrel splice.

 

[Beachside Hank]

Those you cite are machine- applied, not the simple hand crimper, have you priced out the tooling- usually in the thousands; for a project vehicle it isn't fiscally sound.

 

[Rookie2]

I suggest you buy more wire and use No splices .

 

[pepi]

I suggest you buy more wire and use No splices .

I agree, but if you must solder the joints.

 

[rburke65]

What exactly is a "large wiring project" for your car? What about the after car market and their wiring systems? We need more info.

 

[mrjaw14]

from what I've heard, mechanical splices using **** conenctors and a crimp tool are preferred, followed by a marine grade heat shrink. The kind with adhesive. The reason for this is mechanical splices resist vibration and shock better than solder which can get brittle over time. Also, if you don't get the wires hot enough, but you melt solder around them, the solder wont ahear correctly and create voids inside the joint.

I just use a simple klein or channellock hand crimper and some **** connectors. remember to put your heat shrink on first though

 

[mrjaw14]

here's an example of poor soldering: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139795-the-ultimate-answer-on-solder-vs-crimp/

They make the (valid) point that IF DONE CORRECTLY soldering is fine, which it is. But it's easier to screw up a solder joint than a mechanical splice if you're using the right tools. Another thing to consider is what's around the splice? If it's in a big loom of wires you may not be able to sufficiently heat the wires to be soldered without damaging the other wireing. A mechanical splice would be preferred.

Mechanical splices aren't the end all be all of wiring, just food for thought. The take away is if you're going to solder, do it right and don't half-*** it. Take some spare wire and practice making good joints.
Similerly, if you use spades or other terminals other than a round **** connector, there's a right and a wrong way to crimp those as well. Most peole do it backwards.

What ever you do, learn to do it right, and do it well.

 

[wilf]

The majority of automotive wiring harness splices use NO mechanical crimps !

What manufacturer does not use mechanical crimps? I've worked with wiring from a handful of cars and I've never seen an OEM splice that was not crimped.

Those you cite are machine- applied, not the simple hand crimper

I did not know that, thanks for the heads up. Any recommendations for open-barrel splices that can be crimped with a hand crimper?

What exactly is a "large wiring project" for your car? What about the after car market and their wiring systems? We need more info.

Well as of now, my plans consist of assembling and installing a standalone ECU (megasquirt) in my miata along with related mods (coil-on-plugs, speed density conversion, 3rd party sensors such as oil temp, EGT, WBO2, etc.) but that could expand. On my last car I did an engine swap w/ accompanying ECU and ended up soldering dozens of joints. It took forever. Later I was told that "every soldered joint eventually fails" (on a car). For reliability, speed, and convenience I'd like to have a supply of splices on hand.

The take away is if you're going to solder, do it right and don't half-*** it.

Thanks for that. I think I'm decent at soldering but I'm just a hobbyist and I've never had a professional inspect my work. I've had very minimal experience with crimps so that's why I'm here. I just assumed open barrel was the way to go since that's what I keep seeing in OEM harnesses. They also seem a lot more compact than **** splices. It's too bad I can't seem to find them anywhere. I might just bite the bullet and pick up some **** splices from mcmaster.

 

[67carl]

from what I've heard, mechanical splices using **** conenctors and a crimp tool are preferred, followed by a marine grade heat shrink. The kind with adhesive. The reason for this is mechanical splices resist vibration and shock better than solder which can get brittle over time. Also, if you don't get the wires hot enough, but you melt solder around them, the solder wont ahear correctly and create voids inside the joint.

I just use a simple klein or channellock hand crimper and some **** connectors. remember to put your heat shrink on first though

^^^^This. I added 5 new gauges, 2 idiot lights and a remote trunk release to my car using crimped **** connectors covered with marine grade heat shrink. Connections are strong even before I put the shrink on, which has an adhesive that gets all gooey when you heat it then hardens when it cools. Everything's been running great with no issues. I got ratcheting crimpers from Harbor Freight that worked great. It has different slots for different size connectors (color coded) and the crimp, for lack of a better word - range, is adjustable.

http://t.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html

http://t.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

BTW - "if you don't get the wires hot enough, but you melt solder around them, the solder wont ahear correctly and create voids inside the joint" This is called a Cold Joint. If you are not experienced with soldering I don't think you want your learning experience to be a lot of electrical work on your car. Get a soldering gun and practice on some scrap.

 

[mrjaw14]

Yes, you're right about the term. I just didn't want to throw the term “cold solder joint” if someone didn't have the background and experience to know what that was. They are downright irritating to troubleshoot because they can appear to be a good joint on the outside, but be bad on the inside.

Also, I want to point out the reason for marine grade heat shrink is to seal out moisture. Copper wire will corrode if left in the elements, and corroded wires break down, which increases resistance, and resistance in wiring creates problems in the form of voltage drop. The wire will pass a continuity check, but since V-Drop is a function of amperage in that you have to be passing some load for it to show up, I'd argue that the right heat shrink is every bit as important as the type of splice used.

To me, the best looking splice is a non-insulated barrel connector followed by marine grade heat shrink. It's not as fat and ugly looking as an insulated terminal followed by heat shrink. I’ve found that if you take the time to make the joint look good, you’re also taking the time needed to make it function good as well.

 

[ishiboo]

The majority of automotive wiring harness splices use NO mechanical crimps ! Simply a minimum of 1½ twist of bared copper wire. They also use friction tape (cloth based tape with a non drying adhesive). I prefer marine heat shrink.

Wizzy automotive harnesses rarely have any splices these days, and all terminals are crimped exclusively.

I'd go with a quality (3M/Tyco/etc) **** connector with adhesive/marine heat shrink over the top. Channellock 909 will give you a solid, reliable crimp with almost any crimp terminal. Ratcheting crimpers for the right terminal will be a bit easier on the hands and more accurate.

I would avoid splicing into the old harness though if you are rebuilding things, and run new wires. Install Weatherpak or Metripak connectors at individual sensors/etc.