Advice for how I can/should fit a lift in this garage (with pics!)

[Phaedrus29]

I've recently discovered this forum and I'm finding all the information very helpful. I'd like to fit a 4-post lift in my garage but I have some obstacles in the garage which are making this tricky. Here are a couple overall pics of the garage (please excuse the mess):

<a href="http://imgur.com/DUJS68k"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/DUJS68k.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

<a href="http://imgur.com/fwL98xA"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/fwL98xA.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

One obstacle is this damn ceiling beam going across the middle of the garage:

<a href="http://imgur.com/vRF1ZTj"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/vRF1ZTj.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

The height of the ceiling is 10'7", but the distance from the floor to the beam is only 9'. The garage is pretty deep...there is about 12'10" (154") from the garage doors to the beam. Then there is 8'6" (102") from the back edge of the beam to a damn cement raised platform at the back of the garage (which you can see in the first pic). The cement platform is 4'4" (52") deep. Here is a pic of that platform that leads down to an egress:

<a href="http://imgur.com/TVosT5w"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/TVosT5w.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

That cement platform is another tricky obstacle...I think if it wasn't there I would be able to fit the lift behind the beam and wouldn't even have to worry about garage door clearance...that raised step area is very wide.

The car I would like to fit under the lift is a Subaru BRZ that is 51" high. On top is a 1968 Mustang (convertible) that is 52" high.

Is this doable? At this point I'm seeing two different "options". Both options would require part of the Mustang (hood or trunk) extending under that beam. The Mustang length is 181" or so. The Mustang from windshield to rear, for example, is 116" in length. So if the lift was right inside the garage, I think the Mustang could fit with the hood extending under the beam...the hood is only about 34" tall.

So Option (1) would be to put the lift right inside the garage door. This would require switching to a high lift track on the garage door. One worry I have about this: Even with a high lift track, wouldn't the garage door still lower the clearance somewhat from the 10'7" ceiling? Can it still work?

I'm not even sure if this Option (2) is feasible: If that cement step can be removed and the floor leveled out, then I would have 154" behind the beam...I could then put the lift past the beam at the back of the garage (and the Mustang would again have to extend a bit under the beam). I'd have the full ceiling clearance without even worrying about the garage doors. Can this even be done, with the slab remaining secure for the lift? Is it a much bigger job such that I should just go with option (1)?

Well sorry for the long first post but I could really use some advice here since I'm pretty confused, but also excited about the possibility of a lift. Thanks for the help! Here's a pic of the garage from the outside:

<a href="http://imgur.com/qYgYm3d"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/qYgYm3d.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

Thanks again for any thoughts.

 

[87jeepwrangler]

Without seeing all the details, I'd guess moving the concrete step and putting the lift as deep into the garage as possible will give you the best results. Seems possible from what I can see from the pics.

Your other option of raising the garage door track looks like it could also work, but I'd also go to a torsion style door spring and torsion style opener. That should free up your ceiling height a good bit.

 

[bottom feeder]

What's above the garage? Any reason the beam couldn't be re-engineered to be less intrusive?

 

[Ray916MN]

51 (BRZ) + 51 (Mustang) + 10 (Lift runway, 1" clearance over each car roof and lift lock release distance) = 112" This is an estimate of the absolute minimum height you need over the roofs of the car and to enable the lift to raise the Mustang over the BRZ and not hit the ceiling.

10'7" = 127"

Option 1 should work. Change to a torsion door spring and a torsion style electric garage door opener (eg. Liftmaster 8500) and you should be able to forego the high lift door track. You should have about 15" of extra distance to play with for clearance over the bottom car and clearance over the roof of the top car. You need to check the specific runway thickeness and lock liftover distance for whatever lift you plan on getting to be sure this will work, but it should work.

Option 2 should work with similar clearances as option 1.

 

[wssix99]

That cement platform is another tricky obstacle...I think if it wasn't there I would be able to fit the lift behind the beam and wouldn't even have to worry about garage door clearance...that raised step area is very wide.

You can't touch the raised section and don't want to store anything automotive or gasoline powered on top or over it. That platform is your "gas curb" and keeps heavier-than-air gasoline fumes from pouring in to your basement and creating the potential for a critical situation. Your garage floor is also sloped in the direction of your garage doors to let any fumes that come off the cars to exit outside the house. (You should find that your floor to ceiling height is different at the gas curb and a greater distance at the garage doors.)

The car I would like to fit under the lift is a Subaru BRZ that is 51" high. On top is a 1968 Mustang (convertible) that is 52" high.

One thing to consider is not so much the space on top but the space below. The platform on the lift is wider than the car, so you'll have to duck under it and watch your head if you want to use the car underneath. If you don't have a lot of headroom and have everything packed in there tightly, you may find that you have to do the limbo every time you want to get in the car underneath and drive off.

So Option (1) would be to put the lift right inside the garage door. This would require switching to a high lift track on the garage door. One worry I have about this: Even with a high lift track, wouldn't the garage door still lower the clearance somewhat from the 10'7" ceiling? Can it still work?

You may not need to change the door tracks. The car you raise on the platform should elevate in between the two tracks. You will need to get rid of your current opener and go to a jackshaft/torsion spring system to reclaim that center space.

I'm not even sure if this Option (2) is feasible: If that cement step can be removed and the floor leveled out, then I would have 154" behind the beam...I could then put the lift past the beam at the back of the garage (and the Mustang would again have to extend a bit under the beam). I'd have the full ceiling clearance without even worrying about the garage doors. Can this even be done, with the slab remaining secure for the lift? Is it a much bigger job such that I should just go with option (1)?

As noted above, that curb is a key safety feature of your home and required by code. Your path of least resistance here would be to lower your garage floor, which would also required lowering your driveway. (Not sure if that is feasible, or not.)

 

[Phaedrus29]

Thanks for the quick comments!

You can't touch the raised section and don't want to store anything automotive or gasoline powered on top or over it. That platform is your "gas curb" and keeps heavier-than-air gasoline fumes from pouring in to your basement and creating the potential for a critical situation. Your garage floor is also sloped in the direction of your garage doors to let any fumes that come off the cars to exit outside the house. (You should find that your floor to ceiling height is different at the gas curb and a greater distance at the garage doors.)

Very interesting, thanks! OK so that leaves the first option. (I don't think lowering the garage floor and driveway is really feasible.)

One thing to consider is not so much the space on top but the space below. The platform on the lift is wider than the car, so you'll have to duck under it and watch your head if you want to use the car underneath. If you don't have a lot of headroom and have everything packed in there tightly, you may find that you have to do the limbo every time you want to get in the car underneath and drive off.

Yes, I should really think about how inconvenient this would be. But currently (with the 3 cars in the garage) I have to be careful maneuvering into the garage and can't open my driver door fully...and have to pull out to let a passenger in. So the lift would have some advantages there and it's a LIFT!

You may not need to change the door tracks. The car you raise on the platform should elevate in between the two tracks. You will need to get rid of your current opener and go to a jackshaft/torsion spring system to reclaim that center space.

RAY916MN mentioned this too, but I'm confused. As you can somewhat see in this pic, the tracks are considerably lower than the ceiling:

<a href="http://imgur.com/vRF1ZTj"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/vRF1ZTj.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

I see that the car on the lift would elevate between the two tracks. But, and maybe I'm missing something here, wouldn't there be a problem when I want to open the garage door with the car on top of the lift? Wouldn't the garage door slide up right into that car? (My ceiling height there is around 10'7" but the tracks are quite a bit lower than that.)

 

[Ray916MN]

...

I see that the car on the lift would elevate between the two tracks. But, and maybe I'm missing something here, wouldn't there be a problem when I want to open the garage door with the car on top of the lift? Wouldn't the garage door slide up right into that car? (My ceiling height there is around 10'7" but the tracks are quite a bit lower than that.)

D'oh !!!

You do indeed need high lift tracks. I would expect the ceiling height when the door is opened to be 10-8" lower. Getting really tight, you'd be down to about 5-7" of extra clearance....

 

[Phaedrus29]

D'oh !!!

You do indeed need high lift tracks. I would expect the ceiling height when the door is opened to be 10-8" lower. Getting really tight, you'd be down to about 5-7" of extra clearance....

Hrmmm, ya might be even closer. I'm using a lift calculator that says 7" runway and 5" to raise out of locking position. Bottom car is 51" and top car is 52". So that comes to 115". Ceiling is 127"...lowered 10" by the garage door would be 117". Yikes that's not a lot of room to work with.

 

[32roadster]

Phaedrus
Position the lift ALL THE WAY forward into the garage and Simply build "spacer blocks" to put under the back two posts of the lift. You can then use a longer ramp to get on and off the lift. This will do what you want for minimal cost.
What is the height of the concrete riser?

Get back to me if you want. We can even build the spacer blocks for you for next to nothing.

 

[Phaedrus29]

Phaedrus
Position the lift ALL THE WAY forward into the garage and Simply build "spacer blocks" to put under the back two posts of the lift. You can then use a longer ramp to get on and off the lift. This will do what you want for minimal cost.
What is the height of the concrete riser?

Get back to me if you want. We can even build the spacer blocks for you for next to nothing.

That's a very interesting idea, thanks!! I think I'm understanding your suggestion correctly. I haven't looked into the slab requirements under the lift yet...would it really be safe to have two of the lift posts propped up on spacer blocks? What sort of blocks did you have in mind, and how would they be "installed"?

The concrete riser is only 4" tall, so that certainly gives me more clearance than dealing with the high lift garage doors. (The ceiling there is about 1" lower I think but we are still in better shape.) One concern I have is how I would get my BRZ up on the lift, which is low to the ground...but I guess some long enough ramps would have to work.

One potential issue with this option is the amount of clearance between the lift and the egress. The width of the whole concrete riser (from the wall to the metal railing right by the egress steps) is 162" (steps start at 165")...the problem is that ideally the lift WOULDN'T be pushed all the way into the corner, but rather centered with that garage bay so you can drive straight in between the posts. I did some calculations (and of course it depends on the particular lift) but with the lift ideally bay-centered I think there would be a little over 2' between the post and the stairs/railing, and about 3.5' between the side of the runway and the stairs/railing. Maybe that wouldn't be a big deal???

Another thought is that I'd like the lift for storage but also to do some work on the cars...and I'm wondering how annoying it would be to work under a lift that is only up 5' or so...I'll have to do some more reading on that.

One nice feature of this option is that I guess I wouldn't be parking all the way directly under the lift...so I might be able to park such that I don't have to worry about bumping my head every time. One thing I should confirm is that I could park easily such that my car doors don't open directly into where the posts are.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

 

[ZekeTheSneak]

Nice fozzy! I had one until the trans blew up. Turbo 5 SPD.

 

[wssix99]

Yes, I should really think about how inconvenient this would be. But currently (with the 3 cars in the garage) I have to be careful maneuvering into the garage and can't open my driver door fully...and have to pull out to let a passenger in. So the lift would have some advantages there and it's a LIFT!

I assumed you were using the lift for storage so you didn't have to do 3-wide in the garage? Are you using the lift just for car work? If so, a MaxJax or something like that may be more versatile for you.

I see that the car on the lift would elevate between the two tracks. But, and maybe I'm missing something here, wouldn't there be a problem when I want to open the garage door with the car on top of the lift? Wouldn't the garage door slide up right into that car? (My ceiling height there is around 10'7" but the tracks are quite a bit lower than that.)

Yep, that's an issue with the way you'd have to store the cars to avoid the steel beam. If that beam wasn't there, you could probably get by with the door coming up and over the hood/trunk.

You might be able to get a lift in there and get your car's stored on it, but... it won't be comfortable. You will also want to look at the ramps that hang off the back. That takes up several feet of real estate by the door (right where you want to place your car) also. You can take them on/off, but that's a real PITA.

Phaedrus
Position the lift ALL THE WAY forward into the garage and Simply build "spacer blocks" to put under the back two posts of the lift. You can then use a longer ramp to get on and off the lift. This will do what you want for minimal cost.
What is the height of the concrete riser?

This would violate code and could be potentially dangerous. If a car is elevated over the gas curb, fumes can fall on top of the curb and cascade down the stairs in to the basement. (Instead of flowing out underneath the garage doors For illustration, this is what happens when gas fumes ignite in an enclosed space:

(this is a lot of gas in a very small space, but even a small amount in a large space can create a fireball)

 

[wssix99]

One thing you might look at doing is cutting away the elevated area just on one side of the garage and extending the flat garage floor in to that space, so the elevated platform at the head of the stairs is smaller. That would give you a lower area, below the gas curb, where you could put a car/lift. Not sure if that would give you enough width for a lift and still have a comfortable 3"+ landing?

 

[Ray916MN]

Hrmmm, ya might be even closer. I'm using a lift calculator that says 7" runway and 5" to raise out of locking position. Bottom car is 51" and top car is 52". So that comes to 115". Ceiling is 127"...lowered 10" by the garage door would be 117". Yikes that's not a lot of room to work with.

Changing out the garage door to a rollup or bi-fold door would eliminate the need for garage door clearance and make option 1 more viable.

 

[scarney1988]

Are you only considering a 4-post?

Must the lift be above ground, or would you consider an in ground / flush mount?

What kinds of work do you expect to be doing with this lift?

What is your budget (renovations and lift)?

Above ground lifts are easier to install and maintain, but in ground lifts offer the you much more space to walk around. As a full time wrench I hate having to work around lift posts.

Also, drive on mid-rise lifts are available and would most likely fit with little to no modifications.

Maybe you could go to one large garage door [remove the center support] to get rid of 2 door tracks and put the lift in the center? It would be costly, if its structurally possible, but would offer you what you needed.


Good luck

 

[Phaedrus29]

I assumed you were using the lift for storage so you didn't have to do 3-wide in the garage? Are you using the lift just for car work?

What kinds of work do you expect to be doing with this lift?

Yes, I am using the lift primary for storage so I don't have to go 3-wide. However, I would like to do the occasional car work: fluids (oil, transmission, differential, etc.), changing winter/summer wheels, exhaust, brakes, suspension, etc. (I know for some of these I'll ideally want a rolling jack for the 4-post lift.)

What is your budget (renovations and lift)?

If possible, I'm trying to do this as inexpensively as possible without skimping on the lift itself. Some of the options you mention aren't ideal because one of my priorities is for storing 3 cars in the garage without going 3-wide.

This would violate code and could be potentially dangerous. If a car is elevated over the gas curb, fumes can fall on top of the curb and cascade down the stairs in to the basement. (Instead of flowing out underneath the garage doors.)

That's worrisome. Are you sure about the code and the risk? Only the front of the top car would be on the gas curb...and the bottom car wouldn't be parked up on the curb at all. The rear of the top car should be well into the middle of the garage.

One thing you might look at doing is cutting away the elevated area just on one side of the garage and extending the flat garage floor in to that space, so the elevated platform at the head of the stairs is smaller. That would give you a lower area, below the gas curb, where you could put a car/lift. Not sure if that would give you enough width for a lift and still have a comfortable 3"+ landing?

Another interesting idea. 3"+ landing? I think the lift could fit centered in the bay with 2'+ between the lift post and the start of the stairs...is 2' enough width for the gas curb?

 

[bcrewcaptain@]

position lift IN the back half parallel to the rear wall, spin car sideways on dollies to position for the lift. You still have one bay for parking, and the front half of the other 2 for extra work/storage.

I'm actually only halfway joking, as I have seen something very similar done.

 

[Phaedrus29]

Phaedrus
Position the lift ALL THE WAY forward into the garage and Simply build "spacer blocks" to put under the back two posts of the lift. You can then use a longer ramp to get on and off the lift. This will do what you want for minimal cost.
What is the height of the concrete riser?

Get back to me if you want. We can even build the spacer blocks for you for next to nothing.

I spoke to someone at BendPak today and he didn't like the idea of putting two posts on 4" spacer blocks just sitting on top of my garage floor (even if bolted down or whatever). Instead he recommended cutting out 2'x2' squares in the floor and going around 1.5' deep...and pouring concrete there sticking up 4".

At this point I'm leaning towards that idea of removing most of the gas curb so the whole floor is level, while leaving enough of the curb to meet code. (Any ballpark price on that?) I noticed that other parts of the gas curb are pretty narrow, so I don't think the code requires a wide platform at all. In this pic you can see that the gas curb under the metal railing isn't wide at all:

<a href="http://imgur.com/TVosT5w"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/TVosT5w.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

I'd have a bit of a tripping hazard at the top of the stairs (although the step could be 1'+ deep)...so perhaps there is a different code for that. I figure I can paint the step bright orange or something and put up a reminder sign.

 

[Junkman]

Where do the concrete steps lead to?

 

[Phaedrus29]

Where do the concrete steps lead to?

Down to the basement.

 

[gygeneral]

I have stairs also going to the basement from the garage. Where your railing is, mine is all closed in with a self closing door at the top. I also have to step up to get to the stairs. With the stairway all closed in it also gives you an extra wall to hang stuff.

 

[wssix99]

That's worrisome. Are you sure about the code and the risk? Only the front of the top car would be on the gas curb...and the bottom car wouldn't be parked up on the curb at all. The rear of the top car should be well into the middle of the garage.

Yea. That's a problem. The engine bay is an area where you'd get gas vapor leakage - so that's a part you don't want overhanging that curb.

Another interesting idea. 3"+ landing? I think the lift could fit centered in the bay with 2'+ between the lift post and the start of the stairs...is 2' enough width for the gas curb?

Sorry, I meant 3 foot landing. If you can get a 3' square up there, you shouldn't have any more of a tripping hazard than you already have today for the larger platform. If you get much smaller than that, you will go from having a raised platform to an obstacle. (Kind of walking through a ship's portal.)

I noticed that other parts of the gas curb are pretty narrow, so I don't think the code requires a wide platform at all.

Correct, you just need (typically) and 8" barrier coming up from the floor to block gasses.

Looking at the pictures again, removing some of the raised section and extending your garage floor looks like the way to go. I'd think the cost of the lift would be more than the cost of the concrete work.

 

[32roadster]

Phaedrus
After watching the video that wssix99 posted, I will make the following suggestions during your time in that particular house:
1: don't pour gasoline on your cars or anything else in your garage
2: don't light the poured gasoline with a flaming torch

LOL
Its amazing that guy lived through that.

 

[Phaedrus29]

Sorry, I meant 3 foot landing. If you can get a 3' square up there, you shouldn't have any more of a tripping hazard than you already have today for the larger platform. If you get much smaller than that, you will go from having a raised platform to an obstacle. (Kind of walking through a ship's portal.)

I wouldn't have room for a 3' landing unfortunately. With the lift centered in the bay there would be roughly 29" between the post and the start of the stairs (it varies slightly depending on the particular lift). I think you are not supposed to put the post too close to the edge of a slab...so the new lower slab would have to extend out another 6-8" at least??? So we are looking at about a 20" landing. Too annoying and trippy?

 

[wssix99]

Too annoying and trippy?

Probably, but I wouldn't let that stop you. You could cut the curb back to that smaller platform (or an even smaller one) and then extend it out (and even around the column of the lift) with some metal grating or something that would allow vapors to fall through it and then down on to the floor.

At that point, the questions would be:
- How much can you wrap the grating around the post of the lift and still have it function properly?
- Is the post for the lift in the way of you accessing your basement like you want to?

 

[turbodave]

Would storing the Mustang with the top down solve any of your clearance issues?

In my mind it would let you position the car with the windshield ahead of the beam and then your only issue would be raising the door tracks and moving the opener.

 

[big.jim]

if for parking only ive seen a lift like a transporter trailer , fixed at your kerb like a ramp , drive first car on then rear lifts up to park second car under so you would have front wheels on kerb, you could do a diy , 2 long ramps hinged at kerb and a winch system off of beam at back edge, you would then only have hood / trunk height above each other

 

[Hpozzuoli]

I've recently discovered this forum and I'm finding all the information very helpful. I'd like to fit a 4-post lift in my garage but I have some obstacles in the garage which are making this tricky. Here are a couple overall pics of the garage (please excuse the mess):

<a href="http://imgur.com/DUJS68k"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/DUJS68k.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

<a href="http://imgur.com/fwL98xA"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/fwL98xA.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

One obstacle is this damn ceiling beam going across the middle of the garage:

<a href="http://imgur.com/vRF1ZTj"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/vRF1ZTj.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

The height of the ceiling is 10'7", but the distance from the floor to the beam is only 9'. The garage is pretty deep...there is about 12'10" (154") from the garage doors to the beam. Then there is 8'6" (102") from the back edge of the beam to a damn cement raised platform at the back of the garage (which you can see in the first pic). The cement platform is 4'4" (52") deep. Here is a pic of that platform that leads down to an egress:

<a href="http://imgur.com/TVosT5w"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/TVosT5w.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

That cement platform is another tricky obstacle...I think if it wasn't there I would be able to fit the lift behind the beam and wouldn't even have to worry about garage door clearance...that raised step area is very wide.

The car I would like to fit under the lift is a Subaru BRZ that is 51" high. On top is a 1968 Mustang (convertible) that is 52" high.

Is this doable? At this point I'm seeing two different "options". Both options would require part of the Mustang (hood or trunk) extending under that beam. The Mustang length is 181" or so. The Mustang from windshield to rear, for example, is 116" in length. So if the lift was right inside the garage, I think the Mustang could fit with the hood extending under the beam...the hood is only about 34" tall.

So Option (1) would be to put the lift right inside the garage door. This would require switching to a high lift track on the garage door. One worry I have about this: Even with a high lift track, wouldn't the garage door still lower the clearance somewhat from the 10'7" ceiling? Can it still work?

I'm not even sure if this Option (2) is feasible: If that cement step can be removed and the floor leveled out, then I would have 154" behind the beam...I could then put the lift past the beam at the back of the garage (and the Mustang would again have to extend a bit under the beam). I'd have the full ceiling clearance without even worrying about the garage doors. Can this even be done, with the slab remaining secure for the lift? Is it a much bigger job such that I should just go with option (1)?

Well sorry for the long first post but I could really use some advice here since I'm pretty confused, but also excited about the possibility of a lift. Thanks for the help! Here's a pic of the garage from the outside:

<a href="http://imgur.com/qYgYm3d"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/qYgYm3d.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>

Thanks again for any thoughts.

I would take a look at the header over your garage doors. If it sufficient to carry the load of that span I would get one large door. You have a nice big garage and that divider probably is an pain in the *** for you. Strange they put that concrete deck in your garage. Is it hollow or solid? If it is hollow and serves no purpose I would remove it. I would be willing to bet your floor goes under it and that was done after the fact, but still during construction. Just my ideas to start with. You do have a roomy interior that has lots of potential.

 

[Phaedrus29]

Would storing the Mustang with the top down solve any of your clearance issues?

In my mind it would let you position the car with the windshield ahead of the beam and then your only issue would be raising the door tracks and moving the opener.

Good idea...that would work BUT I'd really like the lift for storage AND for occasional car work. The amount of lift (which is already pretty limited) would be even more limited when working on another car. Also I don't think it's great for the convertible top to leave it stored in the down position for that long.

--------

I did think of a new possibility (or a variant on "option 1" above) that could work without any need to modify concrete without losing ANY vertical space. The idea is to put the lift right inside the garage and go with high lift tracks on the garage door...AND to raise the ceiling there (before the beam) whatever height to compensate for the garage door...the garage door would then open up following a track into that higher space. I would have to check that raising the ceiling there is possible, but I don't see why it wouldn't be. There's just a storage area above the garage, and the big structural beam would be unaffected.

I'm not sure how much cheaper this option (modifying the garage door and ceiling) would be compared to the concrete mod. The biggest negative I can see with this option is that lowering the gas curb would allow me the use of the full depth of the garage...meaning I could probably park with only the hood of the below car under the lift and wouldn't have to worry about my head when getting in/out of the car. With this new idea I would basically be parked under the lift with only about 5' of space past the lift...not enough to clear my door. (The gas curb lowering option gives me over 9' of clearance before the lift...enough so I could park without worrying about hitting my head.) The big positive of this new option is not having to modify concrete at all.

 

[Phaedrus29]

Probably, but I wouldn't let that stop you. You could cut the curb back to that smaller platform (or an even smaller one) and then extend it out (and even around the column of the lift) with some metal grating or something that would allow vapors to fall through it and then down on to the floor.

At that point, the questions would be:
- How much can you wrap the grating around the post of the lift and still have it function properly?
- Is the post for the lift in the way of you accessing your basement like you want to?

I'm planning to check the code requirements with the township in the next few days, but I did find this information online:

"The garage floor shall be poured a minimum of 4-inches below the top of the foundation to form a gas curb on any wall of the garage abutting the house."

That area of my gas curb in the corner doesn't abut the house, so I think we are good as far as that goes. But I did find this also which got me worried:

"R311.7.5 Landings for stairways....Every landing shall have a minimum dimension of 36 inches (914 mm) measured in the direction of travel."

However, there's this exception which might apply:

"Exception: A floor or landing is not required at the top of an interior flight of stairs, including stairs in an enclosed garage, provided a door does not swing over the stairs."

So maybe I can go with a 1' landing at the top of the egress stairs. This should work!

 

[wssix99]

I'm planning to check the code requirements with the township in the next few days, but I did find this information online:

I didn't say this - but you probably don't need a permit for what you are doing, so you may not "need" to follow code. If you need it to conform when you sell, you can always take the lift out (presumably to your new house) and build the platform at the top of the stairs out of another material. (other than concrete)

"R311.7.5 Landings for stairways....Every landing shall have a minimum dimension of 36 inches (914 mm) measured in the direction of travel."

You might check the code again for the definitions section and see what they mean by "landing." I'd expect it to mean an area at the bottom of the stairs (where you land/fall) or where a stair case turns directions.

However, there's this exception which might apply:

"Exception: A floor or landing is not required at the top of an interior flight of stairs, including stairs in an enclosed garage, provided a door does not swing over the stairs."

I think you are in the exception here, but having a 3' landing area is a natural thing to have. Anything smaller is just a tripping hazard and/or you'll be cursing yourself the first time you are moving something heavy (freezer, furniture item, cannon, etc.) on the stairs and need to set it down at the top. If you can't keep 3' of concrete there, I think cutting the platform back to a small concrete curb at the top of the stairs with a vapor-permeable platform (grated metal, plastic, etc.) extending from it would give you the ability to have a transition area to the stair case and also have a post penetrate the platform. (If the lift needs to be close to the stairs.)

 

[Phaedrus29]

I didn't say this - but you probably don't need a permit for what you are doing, so you may not "need" to follow code. If you need it to conform when you sell, you can always take the lift out (presumably to your new house) and build the platform at the top of the stairs out of another material. (other than concrete)

True, and good point, but I'd like to stay within code if it's possible. Actually the inspector said on the phone today that he thinks the gas curb is no longer required at all...he will confirm that tomorrow. If it is somewhat of a safety feature I would like to keep it though.

You might check the code again for the definitions section and see what they mean by "landing." I'd expect it to mean an area at the bottom of the stairs (where you land/fall) or where a stair case turns directions.

The full section says: "R311.7.5 Landings for stairways. There shall be a floor or landing at the top and bottom of each stairway. A flight of stairs shall not have a vertical rise larger than 12 feet (3658 mm) between floor levels or landings. The width of each landing shall not be less than the width of the stairway served. Every landing shall have a minimum dimension of 36 inches (914 mm) measured in the direction of travel.

Exception: A floor or landing is not required at the top of an interior flight of stairs, including stairs in an enclosed garage, provided a door does not swing over the stairs."

So I think they are considering "the top and bottom" of the stairs as a landing. But I think I am within that exception...the inspector should confirm tomorrow.

I think you are in the exception here, but having a 3' landing area is a natural thing to have. Anything smaller is just a tripping hazard and/or you'll be cursing yourself the first time you are moving something heavy (freezer, furniture item, cannon, etc.) on the stairs and need to set it down at the top. If you can't keep 3' of concrete there, I think cutting the platform back to a small concrete curb at the top of the stairs with a vapor-permeable platform (grated metal, plastic, etc.) extending from it would give you the ability to have a transition area to the stair case and also have a post penetrate the platform. (If the lift needs to be close to the stairs.)

Yes, I like your idea of the metal grating or some other material extending from the curb. I'm thinking a 1' curb with the grating extending out another foot or two. As you mentioned I could probably go even narrower than the 1' (especially since the gas curb is only 6" wide (or deep?) along the side of the egress), but I think I'd like to have (and can fit) a deeper step there.

<a href="http://imgur.com/w5g78cQ"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/w5g78cQ.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com" /></a>

The steps down the egress are each 1' wide, so this would basically be another full step of concrete at the top of the steps.

Thanks again for the continued help...I think we are getting there! I'll post with updates soon hopefully.

 

[Phaedrus29]

Inspector dropped by today. He said there is no longer a requirement for a gas curb, but a 3' landing is required. However he said the landing could be made of metal or wood or whatever. So I can do a 1' step with a removable piece that extends another 2' and is cut around the lift post.

The best thing is he noticed that the 4" gas curb was poured later on top of the garage floor. So MAYBE the curb can be cut and removed and I won't need to pour any concrete...I hope that's right! I'm not sure what the garage floor looks like under there. To be continued....

 

[wssix99]

Inspector dropped by today. He said there is no longer a requirement for a gas curb

That's surprising. I thought that it was a part of the National Fire/Building codes. IMO - skipping the gas curb is just asking for a Darwin Award.

So MAYBE the curb can be cut and removed and I won't need to pour any concrete...

That would be great. Even still, any additional concrete work should be much less than you are spending on the lift, particularly if you do the cutting and demo yourself.

 

[Phaedrus29]

Update: SUCCESS!!!!

<a href="http://imgur.com/WLhT6rr"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/WLhT6rr.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>


<a href="http://imgur.com/feb4aY5"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/feb4aY5.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>


<a href="http://imgur.com/A9wIwGB"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/A9wIwGB.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>


They were able to remove the curb with an electric jackhammer without damaging the garage floor. They left a 16" step rather than 12" step because that curb piece is basically floating, although it does have the metal railing going down into it. This still should leave about 11" between the step and the edge of the lift post. Now to go ahead with the lift! Hopefully another pic soon with the lift installed. Thanks all for your help!

 

[wssix99]

W - O - W. That looks great!

 

[CPH628]

Here is an off the wall idea. The beam is to give you a clear ceiling in the garage with no post. Using the right bay for the lift would be best. Since you are doing the over/under car storage thing, place a steel beam front to back to the left of the right bay. Have your beam end on the new beam. Create trusses out of the ceiling joists over the right bay. In making trusses out of of the joist you can also get more ceiling height. Now you have room for a 4 post or 2 post lift in the right bay.

CPH

 

[Phaedrus29]

We have liftoff:

Still some tidying up to do in there, but looking great. I can pull the BRZ fully under the lift as well, but it also fits like this so I don't have to worry about bumping my head (or Mustang leaks getting through the drip trays). Thanks again for all the help!!

 

[wssix99]

It looks like the garage was made for that arrangement!