cutting oil

[1930artdeco]

Hi all,

I am going to use my drill press to drill out some rivets. These are about an inch long and REALLY good steel. So I stopped in the Home Destruction store and picked up some cobalt bits last night.

But I was wondering what to use for a cutting oil just to keep things cool and reduce friction a bit. I don't have any and am not sure where to pick some up. I do have thick/thin automotive oil and 3n1 oil. Will these be ok?

Mike

 

[larry_g]

I would suggest that you swing by the plumbing department and get some thread cutting oil. Lubricating oils are designed to prevent wear and keep surfaces apart, just opposite of what you want a cutting oil to do.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[1930artdeco]

Larry Thanks for the tip on where to get the stuff. I can stop by HD and see if they have some.

Mike

 

[J Persons]

Larry Thanks for the tip on where to get the stuff. I can stop by HD and see if they have some.

Mike

I get dark cutting oil at Lowes. It's in the plumbing dept.

 

[Halfdawg]

Rapid Tap! In a yellow can.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Unless I'm not understanding something here, won't you just remove the heads from one end of the rivets and then use a punch to drive them out? Length shouldn't matter.

 

[Red Green]

I use Tap Magic. Probably any cutting fluid would work. Just make sure to clean the bit out.

 

[Pat Brady]

I use any oil for cutting oil. You only have to cut the heads off of the rivets to get them out. Then push them out with a punch. So, it should not be that hard to drill them out.

 

[stonesfan68]

Another vote for Tap Magic.

 

[Kevin54]

At work, and here at home, just plain oil. At work, we had Vactra, which was machine oil and basically like 10W-30. And I use 10W-30 here at home.

I use Nalgene Wash Bottles like the picture shows. I use the size of the one with the green liquid which is the 2oz. size. You can cut the tip to give very little, or give you more. It doesn't take a lot of oil to go a long ways.

 

[1930artdeco]

Leaf, I hit it with a punch but maybe I need a bigger hammer. I ground one end flat but these got rounded over at the factory 80 yrs. ago. And Ford did dang good job at it. I will try another method to punch them out before I drill. One is loose and I may be able to get it out. But the other is really tight. If I have to drill, will these bits work. I heard that Cobalt is the hardest and designed for metal.

But thanks everyone for the replies. I always learn something here and I enjoy that.

Mike

 

[Lippyp]

I drilled out some rivets on the frame of my 67 Chevy C10 to fit a sway bar, they won't be hard as rivets generally are relatively soft steel. I drilled the centre of the head out with a hand held drill, BFH and a good sharp cold chisel to knock the remains of the head off and then a flat ended drift to drive the rivet out. If you can get access with a grinder then you can grind the head off instead. Then just beat the **** out of it with a drift.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Leaf, I hit it with a punch but maybe I need a bigger hammer. I ground one end flat but these got rounded over at the factory 80 yrs. ago. And Ford did dang good job at it. I will try another method to punch them out before I drill. One is loose and I may be able to get it out. But the other is really tight. If I have to drill, will these bits work. I heard that Cobalt is the hardest and designed for metal.

But thanks everyone for the replies. I always learn something here and I enjoy that.

Mike

Take a drill bit that is a little larger than the shank of the rivet. Drill deep enough for the head to come off. Flush with the surface may not be deep enough, just a little deeper (0.1") will make a big difference.
Sometimes it takes a couple taps (big rivets may need harder blows) with the punch and you see a circle that is the shank of the rivet and the edge of the hole. It gets easier from that point.

 

[Xporter]

Make sure you punch the center of the rivet out before drilling it, makes it alot easier to drill through.

 

[Jim in Wis]

Mike, if those are the rivits on an old Ford frame, they are really tough to get out. I remember drilling out the rivits on the crossmember of a 33 Ford - even after I had a hole through, it was still held pretty tight. I had to drill right to the diameter of the rivit - starting on center is important. I think Ford countersunk the holes on both sides so the rivit swelled into the inside as well as the outside.
Any oil helps as a cutting fluid, but the stuff made for that is better. I use pipe cutting oil, sometimes Tap Magic.

 

[Davefr]

Hi all,

I am going to use my drill press to drill out some rivets. These are about an inch long and REALLY good steel. So I stopped in the Home Destruction store and picked up some cobalt bits last night.

But I was wondering what to use for a cutting oil just to keep things cool and reduce friction a bit. I don't have any and am not sure where to pick some up. I do have thick/thin automotive oil and 3n1 oil. Will these be ok?

Mike

This is the best tapping/cutting fluid I've ever used.

 

[bad_idea]

Anchorlube. A water based tapping/cutting fluid that cleans up easy. It cuts like crazy w/o wearing the bits. I can't talk this product up enough. If you guys haven't tried it, you need to! Water based, works great if you have to weld in the area. Fairly cheap, can be bought from McMaster Carr. A dab will do you, so you can buy the small bottle. Not good for lubricating anchors though.

 

[1930artdeco]

Thanks for the input guys. Thank gawd they are not frame rivets, they the pins on the brake actuating arms so hopefully they will be soft. I am off to get some cutting oil and use a bigger hammer!

Mike

 

[BellyUpFish]

I read a thread a while back where a guy was mixing 50/50% mix of Brakleen and TapMagic and getting excellent results..

Here is that thread..

 

[1930artdeco]

Hi guys, I ended up using some thin oil and it worked just fine. Now if I can just figure out if my DP has some run out as the bit wobbled when installed but the chuck did not.

Mike

 

[D rock]

Learned something today...Thanks GJ.

Now I understand why when I use 10w-30+/-,whatever I have at the time, sometime it doesn't cut worth a damn...cause it's doing what its suppose to. I never heard of cutting oil till this thread.

I'm headed to the plumbing isle at Lowe's right now...