advice on my hydronic heat panel

[boyAND1]

Long time reader. One of my first posts.
trying to put my panel together for hydronic floor heat. Have takagi jr twh for heat 960 sq ft 3 loops about 300 ft each. That part is fine. What I am looking for advice on is the integration panel. I will post a couple pics of a dry fit that I propped up. I feel like I am missing something.
Any advice ???

 

[boyAND1]

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

 

[boyAND1]

Some notes. Things will be straight when i put it all together. The left vertical will elbow over to the bottom manifold. The 4th loop on manifold will be capped for now until I fab up a heat exchanger. Want the ability to keep shop about 50 and turn that on to heat up quick for parties and such.

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

 

[boyAND1]

I appreciate any feedback. Thanks. I love this forum.

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

 

[anthony666]

gauge is an air trap .. you have copper MIP's going into iron flanges

 

[anthony666]

you got a t&p valve ??

 

[boyAND1]

The t&p will go on the side of the hot valve coming out of the bottom of the twh. Quick question about that. Is it a normal valve like that on a water heater or is it a special valve for hydronic applications?
How can I better arrange or change the temp/pressure gauge so it is not an air trap? Is the issue the metal tee or the gauge in that spot?

Thanks

 

[custom1]

Does the takagi jr have its own air internal air eliminator? If not, it should be below the spiro-vent, right?

Anthony, What is the correct way to avoid the copper to iron at the flanges? I did the same thing at my pump.

 

[anthony666]

The t&p will go on the side of the hot valve coming out of the bottom of the twh. Quick question about that. Is it a normal valve like that on a water heater or is it a special valve for hydronic applications?
How can I better arrange or change the temp/pressure gauge so it is not an air trap? Is the issue the metal tee or the gauge in that spot?

Thanks

it's gotta be a lower pressure t&p mate .. 30 psi

the issue is that it is in the vertical plane without a way for the air to be vented .. just put a tee in the vertical off the bottom of the boiler, and install the gauge so it's horizontal, and the air will take care of itself .. gauges are especially scary as air traps because they are basically just sheet metal, and the cheap ones rot out fast .. quick way to flood a basement .. another tip is to mark the gauge with a sharpy where the needles rest when the water is hot .. that way you'll know at a glance if there's a problem

lately i've been installing a a female hose thread on my pressure gauges and attach them to a hose bib on the system .. if i ever need to change the gauge or test it, i just shut the hose bib and swap in a known good one .. fast and easy

 

[anthony666]

Anthony, What is the correct way to avoid the copper to iron at the flanges? I did the same thing at my pump.

what i do is use brass machined MIPS .. they're cheaper than copper anyway

going from copper to brass to iron is usually considered safe, but i'm sure someone will tell me i'm wrong

 

[mygarageone]

what i do is use brass machined MIPS .. they're cheaper than copper anyway

going from copper to brass to iron is usually considered safe, but i'm sure someone will tell me i'm wrong

Ok ,your wrong

 

[anthony666]

Ok ,your wrong

hahaha

 

[mygarageone]

hahaha

Anthony , I am to please .