It's finally time for me to learn TIG......

[Fyrme]

I finally got me a machine! After months of dreaming about having one, but the price for a multi use machine being way out of my affordability range, I finally caught a break. A guy on CL had a ad for a old Miller TIG, looking to trade it for a big-ish MIG machine. Not reeeally wanting to part with the bigger of my two MIG's, I saw an opportunity and emailed the guy. Turns out, my 200a MIG was just what he was looking for. So we exchanged a few pics, and I ended up with this

She's a big girl. And WAAAAY more than I need. But there isn't anything I can throw at it, that it can't do. I'm not sure yet how I plan on getting it of the trailer. I think it weighs around 800lbs. It also came with the foot pedal, 25' torch, and water cooler.

Here's the cool part, 6 years ago I paid $200 for the MIG that I traded it for! I'm stoked about learning the process and laying down some good welds. but in the mean time, I still have my Hobart 135 that I use all the time on 1/4" and smaller (which is 90% of what I weld)

 

[k p]

Cool! Make sure you post your progress (even the crummy welds)

 

[IndyGarage]

I've worked in the aircraft industry and those used to be in every welding booth, and they could make some great welds.

If you are good at Mig, then Tig might not be too much of a challenge. Once you learn to see the puddle form and move, that's the hard part.

 

[buening]

Looks like a 330 AB/P. Those things are built like a tank. I've seen them anywhere between $500 and $1000 depending on the gear that it comes with. Sounds like you got a good deal

 

[wrenchguy]

using ur left hand 4 fill rod is the hard part if ur righthanded.

 

[Fyrme]

Yeah, I'm not very coordinated with both hands. It will take some practice for sure. Yes it is a 330 A/BP. Built in Hi freq and water cooler. But I got an external cooler with it, so I'm not sure if the internal works or not.

 

[C96]

Lol...That looks like something from Frankenstein's Castle
Definitely looks to be built like a brick **** house
Keep us posted as to how it works out

 

[NASTYZEN]

I have one and it's great. 300 amps strong like bull! Only things that break are solenoids and timer. Paid 1500 so you ****!
Cool that it had a torch and pedal.

 

[zkling]

Congrats. Those are a heck of a machine, I started on the same machine, a gold star. Give it a thorough clean out and you should be set. They are great machines provided you have the space and power available to run them. Main reason I got rid of mine was do to space. How did you get it on the trailer? If you have a good size engine hoist you might be able to get it off with that. Otherwise now would be a good time to weld up a set of wheels and use a floor jack to install them. Luckily they have a low center of gravity, but just be careful tipping it over.

Forgot to add, make sure to check all cables, insulation and the spark gap before use.

 

[Buckgnarly]

I like the red label on it....."WELDING MACHINE"....

 

[nine4gmc]

YOU ****!! Good score, in for info!

 

[zkling]

I like the red label on it....."WELDING MACHINE"....

I saw that too, was hoping it said a # or something behind it. IDK I was pretty impressed with what looks to be a crayon drawn emergency off arrow on the power switch.

 

[cbacres]

That's a great machine. I have a 330 also. Like already mentioned, takin the time to go through and clean and check the gaps on the points.
You can download a manual on millers web site.
A neat function is you can use the pedal while stick welding, comes in nice when welding ans be able to change amps without stopping.
There is no internal cooler, either air cooled or water cooled torch.

One issue I had ( operator based), when tigging, the amps seem to need to be turned up higher on the dial than what I thought was needed while using the remote, jus something I had to pay to find out.
The shop load tested it while there and bit was still climbing at 397 amps.

I can run mine on a 60 amp breaker and have done most everything I needed and only tripped it once.

Make sure you confirm the input power settings before using. It is a multi voltage unit.

Enjoy, it's a lot of fun.

 

[KMScott]

Nice welder, yes you can get away with a 60 amp breaker but when you weld aluminum, then it really draws amps. I have mine on a 100 amp breaker and it quit popping the breaker when welding aluminum. I used to weld injection molds, which means it can go pretty low on the settings, needed less then 5 amps to put a dot of weld on hardened tool steel.

Also a great DC arc welder too.

 

[A_Pmech]

Those are great machines!

I have one of the machines that came after, the Aircrafter and I like it a lot.

 

[Fyrme]

Congrats. Those are a heck of a machine, I started on the same machine, a gold star. Give it a thorough clean out and you should be set. They are great machines provided you have the space and power available to run them. Main reason I got rid of mine was do to space. How did you get it on the trailer? If you have a good size engine hoist you might be able to get it off with that. Otherwise now would be a good time to weld up a set of wheels and use a floor jack to install them. Luckily they have a low center of gravity, but just be careful tipping it over.

Forgot to add, make sure to check all cables, insulation and the spark gap before use.

We used an engine hoist to get it out of his shop on to the trailer. I have a 800lb electric overhead hoist mounted to the fir beam in my garage, but I'm too scared to try and lift the welder with it. My neighbor said I could use his little FIL, but I think its barely rated for 800lbs. I have some 5" Colson casters and some 2x1/4 angle that I will be building a base with. As of now, it's still sitting right where it was yesterday!

I like the red label on it....."WELDING MACHINE"....

I saw that too, was hoping it said a # or something behind it. IDK I was pretty impressed with what looks to be a crayon drawn emergency off arrow on the power switch.

There is stuff all over it. Notice the 'A' for "Aluminum"

That's a great machine. I have a 330 also. Like already mentioned, takin the time to go through and clean and check the gaps on the points.
You can download a manual on millers web site........
........There is no internal cooler, either air cooled or water cooled torch........

I found the manual. I will definitely be giving it a good cleaning. When I mentioned the internal cooler, I was basing that off of the solenoid inside the machine that says "water in/water out". I haven't looked at the manual yet, but maybe its just to start and stop the water when you strike an arch.

 

[Fyrme]

The planets finally aligned and I got the welder off the trailer. I first built a cart for it using 4 600lb Colson casters. I also welded on a bottle holder. I will be doing a little refurb job on the paint soon. I did a little research and found a good match on the Miller "True Blue". I'm also going to order a couple new decals for the sides. But for now, it is mobile, I just need to get it all hooked up so I can start burning some steel.
It was ALL this little Kabota wanted. I could only lift it about 4" above the trailer deck, then had to pull the trailer out from under it.

It rolls pretty easy with the 6" casters

Here it's sitting where it will live most of the time. Makes my little Hobart look like a toy.

 

[zkling]

Get a strap around that cylinder ASAP.

 

[Autorotica]

I have a welder that looks just like that, but it has an 800 amp big end capability

What does someone do with that much power?

Chris

 

[hallboyone]

How thick of steel could that weld, just curious?

 

[zkling]

I have a welder that looks just like that, but it has an 800 amp big end capability

What does someone do with that much power?

Chris

Do you by chance own a Dynasty 700?

 

[Autorotica]

Do you by chance own a Dynasty 700?

I don't think so... Shoot me your email and I will send you a pic of the unit. Big end is listed as 840..

Chris

 

[paranoid56]

nice. you will need some power to run that thing. Its funny, when i had 3 of those things we couldnt even give them away 2 months of trying to sell it, then another 2 of it in the free section we ended up sending it for scrap

 

[zkling]

I don't think so... Shoot me your email and I will send you a pic of the unit. Big end is listed as 840..

Chris

A make and model will do?

 

[Fyrme]

Get a strap around that cylinder ASAP.

I just threw it up there for the pic. I still have to weld a frame on that side for a strap and my torch and ground clamp. I just wanted to get the base plate on before I put the welder on it since turning it over to weld would be a little tough.

How thick of steel could that weld, just curious?

IDK exactly, but I'd say 3/4" easily. Aluminum will task the machine more than steel if you compare apples to apples on thickness. When testing it, I struck an arch on a piece of 3/16 aluminum at about 200amps and it blew a hole right through it. I would imagine IF I had the power available, I could lay down some nice welds on 1/2" -3/4"aluminum, but I'd have to shut my whole house down and probably ask the neighbor to do the same. I can hear it buzzing now as the whole neighborhood dims

 

[Fyrme]

nice. you will need some power to run that thing. Its funny, when i had 3 of those things we couldnt even give them away 2 months of trying to sell it, then another 2 of it in the free section we ended up sending it for scrap

Well this guy had it for sale for $800 on CL or trade for a MIG. I think he was about $200 over priced. But I had $200 invested in my MIG and I've wanted a Do-it-all TIG for quite some time. So it worked out real good if you figure I technically only gave $200 for it. It weighs over 800lbs, So I'm pretty sure there is more than that in scrap value.

I can't wait to start using it.

 

[kams1973]

I was told if you O/A weld, you can TIG weld. Great score, can't wait to see your restoration and projects.

 

[Chuck122]

I was told if you O/A weld, you can TIG weld. Great score, can't wait to see your restoration and projects.

It takes a little getting used to but O/A definitely helps a lot

 

[Autorotica]

A make and model will do?

Never paid attention to the markings that were under the handle on low amperage setting I typically use this machine in.

its a Miller 360A/BP SN K202716

Chris

 

[sberry]

That's a cheap way to get it. They made a lot of those, they are reliable.

 

[Noland]

I got one just like it. Theyre a beast of a welder. it will lay down some super nice welds.

 

[Fyrme]

I finally got me a new Randor 250amp water cooled mini rig for my TIG machine yesterday. I hooked it all up and took it for a VERY short test drive. It seems the gas solenoid is not shutting off. I will have to look into that before I do anymore welding. I also have a couple of questions for those of you that have one of these machines.
1. Does the 'hi freq' switch have to be on to use the pedal?
2. When not welding, does the machine make a sizzle noise at idle? (the source of the sizzle is a couple of contacts seated inside some heat sinks and they arch between them, causing the sizzle sound.) Is this normal?

Anyway, here are my pitiful welds that were requested earlier in the thread. My disclaimer is that this is honestly the first time I've ever used a TIG machine. So I thought I did ok. I didn't even burn through that 18ga sheet metal either.

 

[Fyrme]

Oh yeah, and I rebuilt the pedal that was quite 'ratchet' as the teenagers are saying now

I cleaned up this mess

and replaced all the nuts and bolts with stainless hardware

I gave everything a few coats of Rustoleum Hammered bronze

And replaced the dry rotted cords with new 12ga extension cord wire.
(I would have loved to have a single 5 conductor SO cord, but the ext. cord was free so I went with it. I also glued a piece of diamond plate on the pedal for a little bedazzle!

 

[cbacres]

Fyrme,
Ten hi- freq does not have to be on for the foot pedal to operate. There is a switch by each of the twist lock connectors for he cables that feeds the pedal. Just make sure they are in the remote position.
Also, there is a knife switch under the lower panel, it needs to be in the tig position, down I think, I can look at mine later if you need.
The high freq is for aluminum, on AC welding.

The sizzle noise is usually the high freq, you can see the purplish- blue spark. If you had the high freq on and remote off, I believe the high freq would be on all the time.
If not this, you have a bad/ dirty relay.

Your welds look good for the first time, it just takes practice. I'm learning also, but it's fun.

 

[Noland]

It seems the gas solenoid is not shutting off. I will have to look into that before I do anymore welding.

I had this problem with my 330 a/bp. I think it has something to do with the timer. I unplugged a wire off the timer and it works great now just has no postflow. I still have gas while im welding just it stops as soon as I let completely off the pedal. Ive been using it like that for 2 years now no problems. saves alot of gas also.

 

[IndyGarage]

Those welds are not bad at all for the first time with a Tig.

 

[Fyrme]

Noland, is there any chance you could get me some detailed pics of your solenoid and timer? Mine looks a little rigged with a 110v pig tail dangling off of it. I've got to try and find a manual for this thing too. I'd like to power my water cooler from the machine as well. Right now I just plug it in separately. The 110v pig tail was probably used for the cooler at some point but is not currently working.

 

[Fyrme]

Fyrme,
Ten hi- freq does not have to be on for the foot pedal to operate. There is a switch by each of the twist lock connectors for he cables that feeds the pedal. Just make sure they are in the remote position.
Also, there is a knife switch under the lower panel, it needs to be in the tig position, down I think, I can look at mine later if you need.
The high freq is for aluminum, on AC welding.

The sizzle noise is usually the high freq, you can see the purplish- blue spark. If you had the high freq on and remote off, I believe the high freq would be on all the time.
If not this, you have a bad/ dirty relay.

Your welds look good for the first time, it just takes practice. I'm learning also, but it's fun.

CB, that's what I thought. However, the pedal will only work if the hi freq. is switched to "start" both cords to the pedal are switched to "remote" IDK.

 

[cbacres]

Noland, is there any chance you could get me some detailed pics of your solenoid and timer? Mine looks a little rigged with a 110v pig tail dangling off of it. I've got to try and find a manual for this thing too. I'd like to power my water cooler from the machine as well. Right now I just plug it in separately. The 110v pig tail was probably used for the cooler at some point but is not currently working.

You can download from miller welds. I had to call miller and get a couple of pages that the download didn't have.
Just need the serial number.
The high freq. with the pedal don't sound right, maybe some wire have been swapped? Your machine looks a little different from the one I have, maybe a different config.