Brad Nailer or Finish Nailer?

[Ryan_C]

So I have completely finished my hardwood floor installation. I own quite a few pneumatic tools, but one I don't own is some sort of stapler or air nailer. I do have a small staple gun that will shoot 1/4" crown staples, but I am in need of either a brad nailer or a finish nailer.

I still need to finish all of my baseboard moldings. I also never had quarter round shoe molding, but realize I need it in the room with new hardwood flooring. I realize I need the shoe molding because the thickness of the baseboard molding will still show a gap in some places where I did not have enough overhang. I am also totally sick of face-nailing with a nail set too!

So for the limited budget I am on, what do I purchase to finish my project? Harbor Freight gets shopped a lot around here.

 

[metal1313]

personally i would go with a finish nailer, the slightly longer, but heavier nails tend to bit/grip better. it will mean a little more work filling nail holes though.

i would also recommend an angled finish nailer, its the next nailer on my tool purchase list...behind a strap shot and roofing nailer since i have a few finish nailers already

 

[Tom Hintz]

For installing baseboards and such a finish nailer really is needed. Remember that you have to shoot through the baseboards/trim, drywall and then into the sill plate or stud. You really need the fastener length a finish nailer givers you for that.
I have reviews of several air nailers at the link below that might be of interest. I also have one from HF in that list that will explain my feelings on that so I don't get in trouble here....

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/index.html#airtools

 

[Major Ramifications]

You NEED a finish nailer. Your choice of 16ga straight or 15ga angled.
The quarter round or shoe molding not only covers any gaps where the floor is short, but covers gaps at the bottom of the base where the floor dips, because it is flexible.

 

[rlitman]

You NEED a finish nailer. Your choice of 16ga straight or 15ga angled.
The quarter round or shoe molding not only covers any gaps where the floor is short, but covers gaps at the bottom of the base where the floor dips, because it is flexible.

You need a finish nailer to do the base molding. 2" brad nails can be bought, but believe me when I say that brad nails are worthless over 1 1/4".

For base molding, I use my 16 gauge finish nailer. A 15 gauge would be fine too, but it leaves bigger holes to putty. 16 gauge straight nail strips have "Tee" shaped heads, whereas 15 gauge angle nail strips have real heads (albeit small ones). The 15 gauge is important in places where the head could pull through, but that's not going to happen in base molding.

Now here's the problem. A finish nailer is also appropriate for cap molding (but that could possibly be set with a brad nailer too), but a finish nailer will split show molding (maybe not 1/4 round, as that's a little wider than true shoe molding).

Oh, and the post above is absolutely correct about shoe molding. The if the floor isn't as flat as the base molding, unless you feel like scribing and coping the base molding to match the floor (and I've never heard of someone doing this), shoe molding is in order.
Cap molding covers irregularities in the walls, where gaps could show between the base molding and the wall.

 

[Ryan_C]

So the reason why we never had shoe molding in the house is because carpet was in the entire house. If there were hard surfaces then we would have shoe molding too. Interesting info on that HF brad nailer!

 

[JackShephard]

Didn't want to start a new thread, so I thought I'd bump this one up...

My question: Will an 18-gauge nailer be enough to handle doing things like making cabinets out of either 3/4" MDF or plywood?

 

[Syntax_Error]

If you use **** joints you can use an 18ga nailer and be ok. If your not doing that or using rabbits and dado's then I would recommend a narrow crown stapler.

 

[cburnscrx]

Watch for deals. I picked up a reconditioned Freeman combo pack for $115 last week from Home Depot. It looked brand new, with manuals, tools, and still carries the full factory warranty. This was normally $229 (I think). 7 year warranty and parts are available. The nailers are sold under different brands too. NuMax, Husky, Campbell Hausfeld.

Kit: Full head framing nailer, 15ga angled finish nailer, brad nailer, and crown stapler. Pick up a separate pinner and your good for most projects.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/204747...talogId=10053&productId=204747046&R=204747046

 

[JackShephard]

If you use **** joints you can use an 18ga nailer and be ok. If your not doing that or using rabbits and dado's then I would recommend a narrow crown stapler.

I feel like when I see simple cabinets being made on various DIY Network shows that they are only using 18g nailers and **** joints. But I've read a few people on this forum say that using the longer brads (1.5"-2") required to join 3/4" pieces of material does not work well.

I was set on going with the cheaper 18g nailer, but now that I've read more I'm worried that it won't be enough for what I'm wanting to do

 

[cheechi]

If you use **** joints you can use an 18ga nailer and be ok. If your not doing that or using rabbits and dado's then I would recommend a narrow crown stapler.

What kind of cabinets? The above can be done in some situations but may not be strong if it's a bottom cab supporting a granite counter top with no 'sub top' as most cabs don't.

If it were me, the least I would want would be a large staple and then only if it were MDF. Combination of 15ga finish nails and/or staples, glue, and corner braces if it were a bottom cabinet would be my minimum preference.

Brad nailers are more for holding trim (light enough that its weight is negligible) and not having a head showing through. Not for structure.

 

[JackShephard]

What kind of cabinets? The above can be done in some situations but may not be strong if it's a bottom cab supporting a granite counter top with no 'sub top' as most cabs don't.

If it were me, the least I would want would be a large staple and then only if it were MDF. Combination of 15ga finish nails and/or staples, glue, and corner braces if it were a bottom cabinet would be my minimum preference.

Brad nailers are more for holding trim (light enough that its weight is negligible) and not having a head showing through. Not for structure.

The cabinets I have in mind will be lighter-duty than this and will not require a heavy counter top. I'm thinking more of the "cubby" type of cabinet/shelf unit for common garage storage. Like this:

 

[cheechi]

Those units are typically screwed together. Granted it's coarse screws through pre-drilled holes but still I would not build that with brads.

 

[JackShephard]

Would a 16ga nailer work for units like that?

Or what if I glued then brad nailed the unit first in order to get everything set in place, then drove screws into it for strength?

 

[knobby]

Those units are typically screwed together. Granted it's coarse screws through pre-drilled holes but still I would not build that with brads.

i would be thinking dowels and glue with a masonite back nailed/stapled on

 

[cheechi]

maybe I've used hoitey toitey ones in the past. A mix of Target & Ikea I think.

The 'frame' parts of them are screws, the center parts are dowels & through holes. Cardboard backing though.

Would a 16ga nailer work for units like that?

Or what if I glued then brad nailed the unit first in order to get everything set in place, then drove screws into it for strength?

The brads are pointless if you glue & screw it anyway. As for 16ga nails, sure give it a try. Basically think of it this way, brads are less of a fastener than glue, screws, staples, or nails. Any individual or combination of those, all better than brads.

Brads are like a tack weld in this situation, if you need it to be 'assembled' before you do the final assembly. Say if you need both hands free. But even in that case, 23ga pins are better suited then.

I'm not saying don't ever use brads. I own at least 4 brad nailers, I will probably find another 1-2 in spring cleaning. They are useful for trim. I haven't used brads for anything other than decorative pieces except for a very rare occasion.

 

[KaHuNaZ]

Glue and screw would be the strongest, but 18g brads + glue will be fine for that shelving. The brads will hold it tight until the glue dries. I would go with plywood rather than mdf. If the mdf gets wet, the glue and brads will fail as the mdf will just crumble away.

 

[strutaeng]

For utility cabinetry, a finish nailer is probably okay, but not for fine kitchen cabinetry. For that, a brad nailer is used, and only sparingly.

As for millwork, a finish nailer is used to install basemolding, casings, doors, etc. However, for baseshoe/quarter round, the 15/16 Ga. nails are too much. This is where I use the brad nailer instead.

By the way, I have sold all my nailers and have been using steel cut nails for utility projects. They are fun to use!

http://www.tremontnail.com/catalog.htm

Finally, don't be afraid of using a hammer and nail set, especially for a few nails. It keeps your manly skills sharp .

 

[ez-duzit]

I have the excellent Senco SLP20. Highly recommended.