Spray Paint vs Cheap Paint gun quality?

[kartracer55]

I've got a question for you guys, was wondering if you could give me some opinions.

I have a little project coming up that will require me to do a good bit of painting. I have a summit engine hoist that is in dire need of a paint job.

Normally, I would use krylon or Rustoleum, but when I was in harbor freight, I saw that I can pick up an HVLP paint gun for under 20$. Yeah, I know this isn't some amazing professional quality paint gun, but I figure I will need several cans of spray paint, and at over 5$ each, in the long run, It might be cheaper to just buy a cheap paint gun and buy the canned rustoleum paint.

I have a 20cfm@90 compressor, so air isn't a problem. I would have to pick up a cheap inline desiccant dryer as well.

I was thinking about this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47016

I am not a pro painter, I don't know what I am doing, but if I read up a little, would this gun be adequate for what I want? or will I be better off just using spray paint?!

Thanks
Jim

 

[ddawg16]

You're thinking right. I have a similar gun (not HF) that I use for water based clear coats on wood....works fine if you get the material thinned correctly.

But for the engine hoist, I would think you want to use an oil based paint which you would need to thin with lac thinner....not sure how the plastic bowl on that gun would hold up.

You might consider getting one of the HF paint guns. That is what I used for my roll cage....did it in the back yard on a calm day...over spray was not an issue.

One little trick someone showed me is to warm up the paint so that you don't have to thin it as much...goes on thicker. But this only really works if it's a warm day.

Once you get into the mode of using a real spray gun, you will rarely use rattle can. I save old boxes so I can use them to test the spray pattern and for cleaning.

 

[dps]

Anything sold as a paint sprayer will be able to handle solvents, so plastic is fine. You will save a ton of money over time not using cans. Buy a quart of oil-based enamels in the most used colors and a gallon of mineral spirits and you can spray forever with results that will be at least as good as cans and probably much better. I'd also keep some lacquer thinner around for gun clean-up; it's faster than using the mineral spirits.

 

[e-tek]

Once you get into the mode of using a real spray gun, you will rarely use rattle can. I save old boxes so I can use them to test the spray pattern and for cleaning.

While everyone is different, I would have to disagree with that statement. I restore cars and paint them complete (or in parts) in my shop with proper spray equipment, BUT - for anything other than an outer body panel, I use spray bombs. I probably have an inventory of 100 cans of different colors, textures, for plastic and metal, etch and high build primers, etc. It's just too expensive and wasteful and time cosnuming to mix and thin paint - and dirty a gun - for small jobs.

Having said that, spraying an engine lift is right on the line - for something that big - and if you are prepping it well and want an excellent job - I'd go with a spray gun shooting Acrylic Enamel with hardener. It'll last. If it's just a clean up on a well-used piece of shop equipment, then I'd use a spray bomb.

 

[MXtras]

I frequently remove the contents of a rattle can and dump them into a cheap detail gun. This is convenient and allows rapid coverage of an area.

I still use both - rattle can and spray guns. It depends on the job.

Scott

 

[e-tek]

I frequently remove the contents of a rattle can and dump them into a cheap detail gun. This is convenient and allows rapid coverage of an area.

I still use both - rattle can and spray guns. It depends on the job.

Scott

 

[Uncle Buck]

I think an engine hoist would be a great place to learn about using a spray gun, and a cheap HF gun should perform surprisingly well for you straight out of the box.

I too have used quarts of brush paint and thinned it then gun sprayed things like trailers, farm tractors, or anything else where oil based enamel paints work best.

I would avoid Rust-o-leum brand in particular if this is your plan. When I have used Rust-o-leum through a gun in the past, I found that the paint would not cure for days, even in the hottest weather. I am not dissing the brand, I still use their products, just not to mix and run through a gun.

If you will go to either Tractor Supply Company, or Orscheln and go to their fine selection of tractor paints I would suggest either. I myself am partial to Van Sickle brand tractor enamel for projects like yours. You will find that the hardener you need to buy and use to make the most of these paints should be in the direct vicinity of these paints.

You have a great plan, but go with tractor paint as I suggest and you will not be disappointed. Also, don't forget the hardener, you will find that it will make a ton of difference in how your completed job looks.

BTW: MOST IMPORTANT MESSAGE OF ALL, WEAR A CARTRIDGE TYPE RESPIRATOR, ESPECIALLY SO IF YOU ADD HARDENER TO THE PAINT!

 

[Uncle Buck]

I wondered how he did that too!

 

[terabyte]

I use Rustoleum threw a paint gun from HomeDepot to paint race bodywork for bikes all the time. I don't even wet-sand and buff most of the time since we crash these bikes too often to really put that much effort and they still look pretty damn good.

I even mix colors to make my own sometimes.

My advise, use mineral sprits to dilute it. I use about 2 parts paint to 1 part mineral spirits. It does take a little while to fully harden, I will agree with that but when it does harden it's really really tough stuff.

 

[rickairmedic]

I also like the paints from tractor supply . I painted my metal garage cabinets with good old Ford blue using their farm implement paint . I used one of the detail guns from HF and would suggest the same gun for your application . You mix smaller amounts of paint and can get a smaller spray patern with a detail gun which would be good for painting an engine hoist.

Rick

 

[rickairmedic]

I wondered how he did that too!

Drill out the tip of the spraybomb nozzle and put a piece of drinking straw into the hole then simply spray it into a container and pour it in the cup for the gun . This is a technique alot of model builders use to decant spraybombs in order to use the paint in an airbrush for a better quality paintjob .


Rick

 

[Steve in Mi]

I've got a question for you guys, was wondering if you could give me some opinions. ......
I was thinking about this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47016

Thanks
Jim

I don't have the HF gun you link to but hope to catch it on sale for <$9 on one of my visits to the Harbor Freight store. It is on sale often. I started using an ACME touch up gun in the early 80's and have sprayed bookoo gallons thru them. About 10 years ago I tried the look-a-like HF touch up gun. It is a rough knock-off but works okay. My biggest complaint is the coarse finish on the cup making it harder to wash out. So when I caught these teflon lined cup HF touch up guns for $7.88 I bought a life supply. BTW, I learned a long time ago not to take a spray gun apart for cleaning.

I have good quality full size guns and a couple hundred spray cans also but I find the touch-up guns handy for those in between size jobs.

 

[Steve in Mi]

kartracer55, there is a coupon out on that gun now.

 

[bochnak]

I have that HF gun. I bought it for $10?? Anyway, I needed to paint some outdoor furniture. I used gloss black rustoleum thinned 10-20% w/mineral spirits. It did the job. The biggest pain is cleaning the gun. For smaller jobs, I just use spray bomb cans. I say go for it, since the gun and quart of paint will only set you back $20.

A hardener was mentioned earlier. What type of hardener would be used for oil-based rustoleum? Link?

 

[atvmech]

Sata gun, PPG paint...life is to short to BS

 

[MXtras]

Pierce the can with a small scribe to remove the propellant and open the can. No drilling required.

Scott

 

[buening]

I have a cheapo HVLP gun from Ebay with a plastic cup. I used it to restore an old John Deere 214 lawn tractor and it did the job well. I used Valspar tractor and implement paint with Valspar hardener. Cleanup is a pain, but the results are worth it. You get a much thicker coat using a spray gun as opposed to a spray bomb. I find it easier to avoid runs when using a spray gun, as the paint isn't as thin as the paint coming from a spray bomb.

 

[kartracer55]

Awesome guys. Thanks!

Also, where can I get hardener? Something cheap and quick I can get at HD?

 

[MXtras]

Local autobody paint shop.

Then again - being in NJ, they might not sell to the public - hell they don't even let you guys pump your own gas!!

Scott

 

[Steve in Mi]

Do you have a TSC - Tractor Supply store nearby? They have a Valspar hardener for $12.99 /pint. It should be cheaper at a automotive paint/parts store.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...10551_10001_35567_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

 

[back2class]

Cheap gun should be fine. At least the one I have. It is just a generic cheap hvlp mini gun. I am pretty good with rattle cans. Given a smaller piece I can get a perfect factory gloss with them so I rarely use a gun. Even on larger pieces a little overspray can be buffed off and will come outstanding.
I did once paint a harley and the tanks are just too big to do with rattle cans and for other reasons they don't work well. I got some house of kolor metalic paints and clear and the results came so good I did not even need to buff. Perfect glass clearcoat and metalic kandy undercoat was perfect. Even did the primer fine. Now I had never used a real gun before but as I said am very good with rattle cans. The finish came as nice as the $2,000 paint job on my other harley I owned at the time. So at least my cheapo gun is up to prodcuing flawless work and I assume HF one would be ok too.
Now I did once try and thin and spray with rustoleum with it and it went badly, but I may have messed up the mix ratio. In my experience, inexpensive guns are a-ok. Product and skill is more important.

 

[rpmwwe]

I've used that HF gun with TSC paint and hardener for painting shop equipment and it works great.

 

[Kevin54]

But for the engine hoist, I would think you want to use an oil based paint which you would need to thin with lac thinner....not sure how the plastic bowl on that gun would hold up.

The plastic cup will hold up just fine. You will want to clean it with lacquer thinner when done. I have a couple of DevilBiss finishline guns, A HF purple gun, and a TSC small gun. I usually grab the TSC gun first if what I have to paint is not huge.

 

[burger]

What are your tips for prepping a shop for overspray if painting indoors?

 

[timgr]

...
A hardener was mentioned earlier. What type of hardener would be used for oil-based rustoleum? Link?

Don't know for certain, but I suspect that hardener will not work with Rustoleum paint.

Re hardener, it makes a chemical reaction with the paint, and the paint sets harder than you could ever get with a spray bomb. Hardener is poisonous though - it's an isocyanate (cyanate -> cyanide ... you recognize that name?) and it can mess you up bad. Pros use a full body suit with an outside air respirator when they spray this stuff. Full body coverage, a proper respirator, and eye protection is the minimum precaution I would take. A full face respirator is better. Consider where the (poisonous!) overspray goes too...

Just saying - forewarned is forearmed.

 

[mulepackin]

I think an engine hoist would be a great place to learn about using a spray gun, and a cheap HF gun should perform surprisingly well for you straight out of the box.

I too have used quarts of brush paint and thinned it then gun sprayed things like trailers, farm tractors, or anything else where oil based enamel paints work best.

I would avoid Rust-o-leum brand in particular if this is your plan. When I have used Rust-o-leum through a gun in the past, I found that the paint would not cure for days, even in the hottest weather. I am not dissing the brand, I still use their products, just not to mix and run through a gun.

If you will go to either Tractor Supply Company, or Orscheln and go to their fine selection of tractor paints I would suggest either. I myself am partial to Van Sickle brand tractor enamel for projects like yours. You will find that the hardener you need to buy and use to make the most of these paints should be in the direct vicinity of these paints.

You have a great plan, but go with tractor paint as I suggest and you will not be disappointed. Also, don't forget the hardener, you will find that it will make a ton of difference in how your completed job looks.

BTW: MOST IMPORTANT MESSAGE OF ALL, WEAR A CARTRIDGE TYPE RESPIRATOR, ESPECIALLY SO IF YOU ADD HARDENER TO THE PAINT!

I too am a fan of Van Sickle paints for projects such as the IP describes. We have used it on the ranch for a variety of equipment repairs, paint jobs and fabrications. It is pretty forgiving, goes on easily, and quite durable. Not an enormous color selection, but again, more than satisfactory for projects. I'm pretty sure Van Sickle makes a hardener for their paint also (I am talking about their equipment and tractor paint here).

 

[mikester]

I would buy the Devilbiss Starting line set from Eastwood. I have the 2 gun set and I think for the money it cant be beat. I had a Binks #7 gun for the past 20 years and a detail gun that I bought at a swapmeet around the same time. Both guns worked well for all those years. I got the HVLP set from my wife as a Christmas gift 2 years ago. Took a little time to get used to them but I gotta say HVLP works real well. I just used the detail gun tonight to spray Dupont Base black on a crossmember and 3 brackets for my car. The only thing with HVLP guns is you really have to clean them after youre done. As far as keeping the overspray down, I went to Lowes and bought a $2.75 package of thin plastic sheet. Its in the paint section. I cover everything. I dont care what you do overspray goes EVERYWHERE !!!! My garage is 22x30 and the overspray clings to the plastic on everything covered.

 

[mikester]

I forgot the other reason I started that post. I know alot of guys use spray cans. I used to myself. But with all of the VOCs taken out of the paints Ive found that the spray bomb paints dont hold up as well as they used to. Ive tried Krylon, John Deere spray paints (blitz black used to be great for frames and anything under the hood), Even SEM brand from the autobody supply and they never seem to cure all the way. I painted the alternator bracket for my motor and a week later you could scratch it and leave a mark with your fingernail. Thats why I went to using a spraygun for the little stuff. It takes less time to just spray it than do it 2 or 3 times with a spray can and get pissed because it comes out like ****.

 

[sam 8]

I don't know anything about it, but I have seen adds in the new Summit Catalog for a whole line of "east to use" automotive finishes with the Summit brand on them. Might be worth a look for soome of these projects.

 

[timgr]

Has anybody tried the "reusable" spray cans that you fill with paint and pressurize with air? Do they have any advantages other than being portable like a spray can?

 

[marksatterfield]

The 47016 is great, I bought one about a month ago on sale for ~ $10. I got a 1.4mm tip on it. Painted a car with Rustoleum Enamel.

A few notes:

* DEFINITELY USE A RESPIRATOR! I bought a cartridge respirator on sale at HF for $20 (regular was ~ $26).

* According to Rustoleum, hardeners are not compatible with their paint. From what I understand, a hardener would have helped in terms of repaint time. As it is, I waited 24 hours between coats.

* The 47016 is not HVLP (that is, unless one would consider 50PSI low pressure). There is another HF gun that is HVLP, it is around $35 or so. I don't know how much better an HVLP is, the 47016 was the first gun I've used.

* Thin the paint a LOT. I thinned 20%/80% (2 oz acetone + 8 oz paint, the max according to the label), and wound up with bad orange peel.

* Don't hesitate in cleaning up the gun after spraying! If you wait a day or possibly even a few hours, you will be buying a new gun for the second coat.

* Did I mention to use a respirator? The non-catalyzed paint is not as bad as using a hardener, but I'd bet dirt for dollars that you will definitely be looking at your finished product fewer days in your shortened life if you don't use a respirator. It is only $20.

Good luck and have fun!

--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com

 

[back2class]

Has anybody tried the "reusable" spray cans that you fill with paint and pressurize with air? Do they have any advantages other than being portable like a spray can?

Ok only when you dont have equiptment and a brush wont do for the stuff you need sprayed. They kinda **** and are expensive and only for limited applications. I used one once...not impressed.

 

[nickwrx]

Hey guys I wanted to revive this thread as I am getting to the stage of repainting my garage cabinets.

What exactly would I need to spray with a HVLP gun?
Obviously the gun...
But exactly what else? Someone mentioned an inline dryer? Also, what types of hardeners or mineral spirits?

Sorry to sound dumb, but I just want to make sure I have it all mapped out before I buy stuff. Thanks,

 

[KELLHAMMER]

Paint work is a funny thing. There guys out there who will insist on doing everything perfectly right. Which is fine and achieves quality results. And then there are some who just do it. Probably the things they have in common are a little planning, preparation of the surfaces and cleanup. Paint quality is somewhat important but excellent results can be had with the cheapest paint. Durability is going to be the biggest difference between those paints. How the paint is applied is important but there are some websites showing cars that have been painted with a roller and most people could never tell. Granted the roller method takes a lot more elbow grease than spraying but the end result is pretty darn good. I have experimented with spraying with rattle cans on car panels. Again, you can get better than factory car paint appearance. Although, the durability may be not as good. And the labor is probably more. Since, it requires some sanding between coats. The finish gets better as the finer grits are used between coats. Essentially, any paint and any method of applying can achieve first class results. It all depends on the effort put in to it.

 

[twostory]

All this trouble for an engine stand?

I would just prep the engine stand (sand & clean) and buy a can of enamel (Rustoleum, Vaspar, TSC, etc) and paint the thing with a brush. No overspray to deal with, no gun to clean up, etc.

I only pull out the spray guns for something that matters. An engine stand will look just fine with a properly applied brush finish.

For a really smooth finish, goto a boat store and buy some single stage polyureathane paint. About $25 a quart, but is flows nicely. You will not see any brush marks when you are done.

 

[bowanna03]

I am looking to do my utility trailer soon would that HF gun work for that also which some cheap black glossy paint.

 

[e-tek]

What are your tips for prepping a shop for overspray if painting indoors?

Either COVER EVERYTHING in your shop, or hang sheetsof 3-6mil clear plastic in the form of a booth. Run a fan out a window or door on one side. Wet down the floor either way. Use a mask as has been said!

Don't know for certain, but I suspect that hardener will not work with Rustoleum paint.

The manufacturer states this, but I have heard it works.Problem is- they don't make a hardener and the golden rule is to use compatible productsto avoid problems. Course some guys treat their paint like a chemistry experiment!

Has anybody tried the "reusable" spray cans that you fill with paint and pressurize with air? Do they have any advantages other than being portable like a spray can?

I think the next poster said it right- as a last reort, OK - but they don't atomize the paint, therefore flow out, like spray bombs, or at all like a gun.

Ok only when you dont have equiptment and a brush wont do for the stuff you need sprayed. They kinda **** and are expensive and only for limited applications. I used one once...not impressed.

Hey guys I wanted to revive this thread as I am getting to the stage of repainting my garage cabinets.

What exactly would I need to spray with a HVLP gun?
Obviously the gun...
But exactly what else? Someone mentioned an inline dryer? Also, what types of hardeners or mineral spirits?

Sorry to sound dumb, but I just want to make sure I have it all mapped out before I buy stuff. Thanks,

No one sounds dumb asking, but it all depends on what paint you are spraying. Rustolem/tremclad is a one-part, just thinned with spirits 20% and two-part paints are not for first timers spraying equipment (IMHO!).

I am looking to do my utility trailer soon would that HF gun work for that also which some cheap black glossy paint.

Yes it would - again, Rustoleum or Tremclad as above! I wouldn't suggest someone go get a catalyzed high-end paint for a first-time small job like this.

Hope I helped!

 

[MarkH]

Painting is a funny thing. There are many good sites on the web that come up during a search. They all do say one thing, you get what you pay for with paint equipment.

I learned alot about that concept when I first bought some new equipment after using the old stuff dad had. So here is what we do.

If it is really small and is the type of item that no one will notice. Grab the spray can, brush or roller. The clean up is so much easier and it is cheaper. If the project is large enough to use a spray gun, it may be cheap and after two or three jobs like that it gets pitched. This is the lawn furniture, repainting jacks, etc.

For mid ranged items that use a paint gun because they are larger. It still may be a cheap gun, more like the $35 one at HF. Painting farm implements, donahue type trailers, etc. Again they are most likely to get pitched fairly quickly and and the price you can do it.

Now for quality jobs that equipment gets no where near it. It is a Sharpe primer gun and a pair of CAT's set up for base and clear coats. Occasionally if over spray may be an issue an older Sharpe TI is used. These get cleaned and put away for the next job and do not get pitched. The job that these are used on must be one that requires a great finish and the paint used is also multiple steps higher than the HF guns ever see. Cars, pickups, trucks may get these if we are going for a look.

So like everything else there is a tool that matches to the jobs. Even the air prep is different from the first level I mentioned, we do not need no damm air prep to the highest level of running through 2 filters and a desiccant.

Always use respiratory protection. The one listed is good for the first level. For clears you need to be using a body suit and air supply.

Painting can be fun, you just need to spend what is appropriate for the job.

 

[mad57]

rustoleum has a (pro) line of paint it says pro right on the lable, its about $30 bucks a gallon, i love it i restored a older houses base board heat for a custy, with just a light sanding and throw away chip brushes they dried looking brand new like plastic, amazing the customer thought i bought her new ones, i looked like a hero im this job a rattle can would not have worked, i also rolled and brushed my car trailer with gloss black rustoleum pro, looked brand new again. good luck,mike.

 

[Big_Grizzly]

I think everyone has hit it square on the head. Another route you can go for a super tough finish is to use the Rustoleum Hammertone paint. They have quart size for brushing/rolling and spraybombs for light work. Having used this paint for several things including the entire frame on my blazer, I can attest to its toughness and the finish just looks really cool. Might look into that.