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oldldh

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May 22, 2012
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Fairhope, AL
Since I'm married to an "English Rose"---

I appreciate things from that side of the pond...

Mighty nice bit of clampdom, you have there...
 

Hopalong604

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Aug 3, 2013
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193
Thanks! I'm married to an English rose myself. I'm planning on striping it down and re painting it. make it a little bit more presentable.
 

oldldh

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May 22, 2012
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Fairhope, AL
Wife refurbishment is a very dicey subject...:wtf::wtf::wtf:

And can wind up being prohibitively expensive...:evil::evil::evil:

Especially, in my case...

My wife gives me a lot of "gift" money for tools...:bounce::bounce::bounce:

Like my new HF 56" roller, my new socket sets, my new screwdriver set, etc...:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

I like my "Rose" just like she is...:rocker::rocker::rocker:
 

EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Location
Bentonville, AR
Couldn't resist painting the text... First it started out with just the 104, then the rest of the letters you see in black. Yesterday I saw a REED logo with the red text & white background so figured I would give it a try... First time doing that and it was not easy! Basically used a toothpick and had to paint the recessed area one drop at a time...

I'm not doing that again until I find my late model 108/208... ;)
 

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drivesitfar

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Jason: you may not want to do that again, but that is an eye popper and worth the effort. nice job overall on that Reed.

did you see that there is a broken 208 for sale in the US somewhere for $150? i heard a broken slide, but pictures were not shown. Filson mentioned buying it for a parts vise for his Green one. check back a day or two on the posts if you haven't already seen it.
 

Alexbn921

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Aug 22, 2013
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Location
East Bay Nor Cal
Couldn't resist painting the text... First it started out with just the 104, then the rest of the letters you see in black. Yesterday I saw a REED logo with the red text & white background so figured I would give it a try... First time doing that and it was not easy! Basically used a toothpick and had to paint the recessed area one drop at a time...

I'm not doing that again until I find my late model 108/208... ;)

Looks great. I'm a big fan of the painted letter look. I tried with a toothpick and found that a $5 pack of hobby brushes works alot better.
 

Filson

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NE WA
Jason: you may not want to do that again, but that is an eye popper and worth the effort. nice job overall on that Reed.

did you see that there is a broken 208 for sale in the US somewhere for $150? i heard a broken slide, but pictures were not shown. Filson mentioned buying it for a parts vise for his Green one. check back a day or two on the posts if you haven't already seen it.

I'd be pretty torn if I were lookin' at her. Not often you come across an 8" Reed, broken or not... But at the same time... It's just a broken vise when it's all said and done.

I could really use a new center nut for holding the swivel base on, but other than that, mine's in really good condition, so wouldn't have much use for the parts really.
 

PghJKB

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Oct 13, 2012
Messages
489
Location
Industrial Heartland
Got an older Reed 405 1/2 yesterday and while looking it over noticed something - it looks like the serrations were added to the jaws AFTER they were set into the jaw towers. So I went and checked out a couple of other Reeds and found the same thing.

Anyone esle see this or is this an Ides of March / St Paddy's day hallucination?
 

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FlyingLow

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Vancouver Island
Can anyone enlighten me on a handle straightening procedure for my ugly green beast? Not sure if i should cut it off and fabricate a new one or heat it with a torch? I don't want to put too much heat into the screw is my main concern and it will likely have a bit of a kink. If I choose to fabricate is there a specific material to get? Regular tool steel?
 

drivesitfar

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Can anyone enlighten me on a handle straightening procedure for my ugly green beast? Not sure if i should cut it off and fabricate a new one or heat it with a torch? I don't want to put too much heat into the screw is my main concern and it will likely have a bit of a kink. If I choose to fabricate is there a specific material to get? Regular tool steel?

can you borrow the big press you used to pull your vise apart? some of the guys use their presses to straighten out the handles. there are several methods and even a little muscle with it in another vise might be an option.

nice Reed PGH and can you post the rest of the pictures you posted on the other thread that really show off that awesome vise?

so no refurbishing old English wives? sounds like they are good "as is"
 

EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
Got an older Reed 405 1/2 yesterday and while looking it over noticed something - it looks like the serrations were added to the jaws AFTER they were set into the jaw towers. So I went and checked out a couple of other Reeds and found the same thing.

I posted a link a while back how Reed Vises were made:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ilnd2zl91sztal2/How Reed Vises Are Made.pdf

Yes, the serrations are cut after it's assembled.

I could really use a new center nut for holding the swivel base on, but other than that, mine's in really good condition, so wouldn't have much use for the parts really.

If you don't / can't make a new one from scratch, you might be able to find an appropriate threaded bolt, then find like a bronze bushing with the correct OD & ID and just cut to the proper length?

Realistically, if you take the old bolt & base to a machine shop they can probably fab you up a new one for a reasonable price.
 

EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
Looks great. I'm a big fan of the painted letter look. I tried with a toothpick and found that a $5 pack of hobby brushes works alot better.

I have some small ones of those... But they were still too big to get into the small areas...

At first I was going to paint the raised lettering, but when I saw how the logo was I just had to paint the recessed area.

I just sprayed some paint out of a can onto a paper plate and did it that way. I've seen where people use some type of enamel paint where you just fill it all in then give the top a wipe down to get rid of the excess... that probably would have been much easier but I just used what I had. ;)
 

KMScott

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Feb 14, 2012
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Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Can anyone enlighten me on a handle straightening procedure for my ugly green beast? Not sure if i should cut it off and fabricate a new one or heat it with a torch? I don't want to put too much heat into the screw is my main concern and it will likely have a bit of a kink. If I choose to fabricate is there a specific material to get? Regular tool steel?

Flyinglow, I just finished making a handle for my Wilton 600S Vise, if you have a lathe and a cutting torch for heat then it is not that hard to make one. I have a hour in this handle. If you want a drawing of how I made this one then PM me. I make mine very close to the original lengths and ends. and have made a dozen or so for my vises.
Handle Material: CRS 1144 find it Here Or Here.
 

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FlyingLow

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Vancouver Island
can you borrow the big press you used to pull your vise apart? some of the guys use their presses to straighten out the handles. there are several methods and even a little muscle with it in another vise might be an option.

Ok thanks, maybe I'll cut the collar off and get the handle off it later. The press i used before is at the place i buy steel so I guess I'll be going there one way or another. Being a Sunday though prevents me getting it done today unfortunately...

I'm also racking my brain for a plate to mount it on, need something cool... I have a 40" piece of 12"x12" I beam but no room for a pedestal...
 

FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
Messages
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Location
Vancouver Island
Flyinglow, I just finished making a handle for my Wilton 600S Vise, if you have a lathe and a cutting torch for heat then it is not that hard to make one. I have a hour in this handle. If you want a drawing of how I made this one then PM me. I make mine very close to the original lengths and ends. and have made a dozen or so for my vises.
Handle Material: CRS 1144 find it Here Or Here.

Damn thats nice but i have no lathe. I am thinking of buying round stock and some DOM tube to slip over the ends and weld the outside end, file it to round it off.

You make the end knobs a press fit and heat them to get them on? No welding? The vise is pretty crude so the handle doesn't need to be too fancy. Also what is the reason for the "washers"?

Edit: the handle is 3/4 inch and here's a couple pictures
 

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drivesitfar

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sounds like one of our experts found your request and damn nice handle Kevin. the rubber washers prevent the handle from dropping down and pinching your finger you forgot to get out of the way. once you have had a blood blister or two you either learn to move your hand or get some rubber washers.
 

oldldh

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May 22, 2012
Messages
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Location
Fairhope, AL
Handle finger smashes...


SMART!!!


Rubber washers save your fingers, and the loud banging noise, as your handle gouges out a bigger hole in your vise...
 

FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
Messages
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Vancouver Island
I see thanks, I figured it was something like that. I've removed enough flesh already from things like that. I'll have to make some to go on the handle before I'm done.
 

SwampCat

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May 15, 2009
Messages
293
Trick is to get a Chas. Parker with the spring tensioned handle, NO MORE smashed fingers.
 

FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
Messages
127
Location
Vancouver Island
Damn it, you guys have gotten me into this stuff after seeing all the nice stuff on here, found a local 4" Cleveland vise for $35. Going to go look at it I think. Are these desirable?
 

Filson

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Jun 14, 2013
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NE WA
Jason - good idea on taking it in to a machine shop. Just gotta see if I can find a shop in the area now lol.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Location
Pacific Northwest
since you already have a beast vise this one is a decent deal and looks like it has all it's parts. check for cracks and welds and if ok then $35 is better than most would have to pay. good find

that little hole in the back of the anvil is where a hardy type cutter piece goes and it usually is missing see if they have it. also don't beat on that anvil area very hard or if at all.
 

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Mark in Indiana

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Aug 11, 2010
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Southern Indiana
Couldn't resist painting the text... First it started out with just the 104, then the rest of the letters you see in black. Yesterday I saw a REED logo with the red text & white background so figured I would give it a try... First time doing that and it was not easy! Basically used a toothpick and had to paint the recessed area one drop at a time...

I'm not doing that again until I find my late model 108/208... ;)

I think you did a great job on the embellishments. Don't get discouraged. They have paint pens available to mark up the embellishments to make your restoration stand out. The last time I did the tooth pick and paint trick was on a Coke bottle opener, in the 70s…around the time dirt was invented.
 

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oldldh

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Fairhope, AL
Dirt was invented right after I was born...:eyecrazy::eyecrazy::eyecrazy:

'46 or '47 I believe...

I know I'm right, because I've been up to my ears in it, ever since...:lol::lol::lol:

And if we didn't have dirt, think of all the cleanser/soap/hand wipe manufacturers that would be out of business...:sad::sad::sad:

Why unemployment would be through the roof, the economy would crash...

Wait, that can't be right...

Sounds like now, and we've got all the dirt we need...:evil::evil::evil:

Back to the drawing board....
 
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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
I think you did a great job on the embellishments. Don't get discouraged. They have paint pens available to mark up the embellishments to make your restoration stand out. The last time I did the tooth pick and paint trick was on a Coke bottle opener, in the 70s…around the time dirt was invented.

:lol: I have one of those mounted on my bench too. :thumbup:
 

rennebew

Active member
Joined
Oct 30, 2011
Messages
42
A group photo of the 3 Prentiss vises I own.

7" jaw Prentiss 23, 5-1/4" jaw Prentiss 21, and 3-5/8" jaw Prentiss 51

The 4th vise is a 5" jaw Columbian 505 that is normally the lone vise on the cart.

IMG_20140316_154528_zps163e89c0.jpg


Prentiss 21 repair thread
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226108
Prentiss 23 repair thread
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234755
 

CudaChick1968

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Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1,800
Location
Northwest Tennessee (38230)
Anyone see this CL ad?

vise collection all USA older - $10 (Homeworth/Alliance)

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/4376080284.html

Vise collection all older USA vises...
about 25 vises from 1 1/2" clamp on vises to 4 1/2" bench vises.
Wilton, Reed, Littelton, Scout, Craftsman, Columbian and many more.
Some from early 1900's others from 1960's. All in good working order.
Asking $10 to $80 each or all for ????

Hey Jason, thank you for posting this! :D Though the deal is still kind of in the works, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on his Reed. It's a 103 1/2R and I couldn't find out much about it online at all ... that may be a really good or bad sign LOL but I figured it'll be a fun one to get my feet wet on. I'll be reading up as time permits (not much of it for personal projects this time of the year) and hope to do it serious justice. Any input in the meantime is appreciated -- it's the 'art deco' style and whether it should be customized or original is going to be up to you guys: you're the experts and I want to do it right. :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Reed Vise.jpg
 

EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
Hey Jason, thank you for posting this! :D Though the deal is still kind of in the works, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on his Reed. It's a 103 1/2R and I couldn't find out much about it online at all ... that may be a really good or bad sign LOL but I figured it'll be a fun one to get my feet wet on. I'll be reading up as time permits (not much of it for personal projects this time of the year) and hope to do it serious justice. Any input in the meantime is appreciated -- it's the 'art deco' style and whether it should be customized or original is going to be up to you guys: you're the experts and I want to do it right.

Glad you found something you liked out of that pile.

The 103-1/2R is one of the newer styles (I'm going to guess somewhere between 40's - 50's). The "R" was used when they were first transitioning to the new casting style but still had their old style for sale too. I really like those with the square fixed based.

You know you want to powder-coat that bad boy!
 
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