Too bad it's not a swivel base. Still very cool
, though I wouldn't spend $500 on it. Thanks for sharing!
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Too bad it's not a swivel base. Still very cool
, though I wouldn't spend $500 on it. Thanks for sharing!Clik
Well-known member
Craptain: Can't beat free.
Joe Striper: Check the crack in the static jaw receiver.
Joe Striper: Check the crack in the static jaw receiver.
joe.striper
Well-known member
huh, i dont see the crack, but if you see it i believe you....i'd never spend $500 on this though.
oldldh
Well-known member
Someone probably will...
There ain't no reasoning some folks out...
That's why it takes two people to make an auction...
Just two people to want something...
And - Presto - New record price!!!
There ain't no reasoning some folks out...
That's why it takes two people to make an auction...
Just two people to want something...
And - Presto - New record price!!!
Fretters
Well-known member
Why waste several words when just the one will do.
That is a very scary word when uttered by a woman though. You just never know whether to duck or what. 
Even collectors would give you several different ideas. They could merrily argue the toss amongst themselves for ever and a day about what's right and wrong, which goes to show that it still all boils down to personal preference.
There's no such thing as correct regarding restoration. What you prefer is king. Personally, I prefer to keep things bearing their lifetime scars etc, and won't ponce up casting flaws or damage using filler etc., but each to their own. Not a fan of shiny metal unless it was shiny to begin with either. There's only one time something should look factory condition, IMHO, and that's when it stepped out of the factory. Whatever has happened since then should be classed as use and worked with, barring just general abuse and rust. I'll leave dings and dents, for example, but I always stroke the file over them to remove burrs.
However, this is something you'll be putting to functional use, so go with what's necessary and desirable for you. No use having a piece of kit which doesn't work properly or which irks you to look at it. Besides, what you do becomes part of its history, the same as everything else. If you make alterations, (keeping it so it can be returned to original spec. is nice if possible, but not always feasible), just try to do them well and avoid tackiness or bodges. Just remember that it's what you want that matters, and sod what anyone else thinks. You won't please everyone. That's a guaranteed fact.
PghJKB
Well-known member
Why waste several words when just the one will do.
Even collectors would give you several different ideas. They could merrily argue the toss amongst themselves for ever and a day about what's right and wrong, which goes to show that it still all boils down to personal preference.
There's no such thing as correct regarding restoration. What you prefer is king. Personally, I prefer to keep things bearing their lifetime scars etc, and won't ponce up casting flaws or damage using filler etc., but each to their own. Not a fan of shiny metal unless it was shiny to begin with either. There's only one time something should look factory condition, IMHO, and that's when it stepped out of the factory. Whatever has happened since then should be classed as use and worked with, barring just general abuse and rust. I'll leave dings and dents, for example, but I always stroke the file over them to remove burrs.
However, this is something you'll be putting to functional use, so go with what's necessary and desirable for you. No use having a piece of kit which doesn't work properly or which irks you to look at it. Besides, what you do becomes part of its history, the same as everything else. If you make alterations, (keeping it so it can be returned to original spec. is nice if possible, but not always feasible), just try to do them well and avoid tackiness or bodges. Just remember that it's what you want that matters, and sod what anyone else thinks. You won't please everyone. That's a guaranteed fact.
Fretters, Dude,
There will be Texans reading your post in a couple of hours scratching their heads, thinking
"argue the toss" 
, "ponce up casting flaws"
, "bodges?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?"
, this guy must be some kind of four in ner!Love the phraseology!
Cheers Mate
JKB
Fretters
Well-known member
Cheers. That made me chuckle. Duker
Well-known member
Fretters, Dude,
There will be Texans reading your post in a couple of hours scratching their heads, thinking
Love the phraseology!
Cheers Mate
JKB
I was about ready to search for one of those google translation thingies or maybe take a Rosetta Stone class... If that didn't work I was going to pull out one of my reference books but realized it was "Vices for Readnecks" and there no pictures of anything that looked like a "Bodges" although my Cajun friends found plenty of things they would "Ponce" on....
wrenchguy
Well-known member
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
Fretters, Dude,
There will be Texans reading your post in a couple of hours scratching their heads, thinking
Love the phraseology!
Cheers Mate
JKB
Hey Fretter's: We in Southern Indiana have always admired the British for having a master's skill on the English language.
Craptain
Well-known member
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Uhhh? what might a parker 108 weigh?
I hope you get this one Wrench. it's the nicest huge vise we've seen in a while that wasn't already chained up. from the pictures i couldn't see much wrong with it. a little ding out of the back slide on top and maybe a missing or loose pin on the jaw. good luck
White64Goat
New member
thats where i went 4 this rigid last labor day. its only 800 miles
Are you sure that's not the anchor off the Titanic?
Fretters
Well-known member
Can't believe there's actually a book on Tyke speak. Are we that hard to understand? Must say though, I saw this the other week, and couldn't decide whether the fact I can understand it perfectly is good or bad? http://www.booksie.com/humor/poetry/nicola_chudasch/a-barnsley-poem-(a-challenge)
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CudaChick1968
Member Emeritus
Why waste several words when just the one will do.
Even collectors would give you several different ideas. They could merrily argue the toss amongst themselves for ever and a day about what's right and wrong, which goes to show that it still all boils down to personal preference.
There's no such thing as correct regarding restoration. What you prefer is king. Personally, I prefer to keep things bearing their lifetime scars etc, and won't ponce up casting flaws or damage using filler etc., but each to their own. Not a fan of shiny metal unless it was shiny to begin with either. There's only one time something should look factory condition, IMHO, and that's when it stepped out of the factory. Whatever has happened since then should be classed as use and worked with, barring just general abuse and rust. I'll leave dings and dents, for example, but I always stroke the file over them to remove burrs.
However, this is something you'll be putting to functional use, so go with what's necessary and desirable for you. No use having a piece of kit which doesn't work properly or which irks you to look at it. Besides, what you do becomes part of its history, the same as everything else. If you make alterations, (keeping it so it can be returned to original spec. is nice if possible, but not always feasible), just try to do them well and avoid tackiness or bodges. Just remember that it's what you want that matters, and sod what anyone else thinks. You won't please everyone. That's a guaranteed fact.
Ohhhh thank you darlin!! Not only is it wonderful, usable information that I need it's a joy to read too! What's funny is that I can almost hear you say it even though I've never listened to your voice. I LOVE that accent and your way with words!
My Reed is already on its way here (I told you he was a terrific seller!) and I'll know more in a day or two. I'm sure I'll use it occasionally -- I don't need one often but when I do it has to be clean due to the high end nature of my work (Billy's across the shop is a 17" that's always caked with gunk and God-knows-what). What I can't explain is how excited I am about it ... even showing Billy some of your prized features I get a "Baby, it's a TOOL. Who cares?" And if I can't explain it to myself then I certainly can't explain it to him either.
But I've got ten bucks here that says once that sucker's fixed up and mounted on my side of the shop, I'm going to need a few of these
to keep his grubby paws off of it. If I haven't said it lately, here it is again: I LOVE the Garage Journal!!! You guys are amazing and I feel like I have a second home here.
Fretters
Well-known member
Cheers.
But I've got ten bucks here that says once that sucker's fixed up and mounted on my side of the shop, I'm going to need a few of these
I'm thinking you're not far wrong. Just tell him when he tries that it's only a tool.
oldldh
Well-known member
If you want to increase your linguistic difficulties by an order of magnitude...
Be an old man from Alabama, married to an English Rose...
We both speak the same language...
Sort of...
But every so often, we have to stop and say..."What DID you mean???"...
As in, "Hand me that bit of paper..."
What she wanted was a Dish Pack box...
Life is always an adventure, with her though...
Be an old man from Alabama, married to an English Rose...
We both speak the same language...
Sort of...
But every so often, we have to stop and say..."What DID you mean???"...
As in, "Hand me that bit of paper..."
What she wanted was a Dish Pack box...
Life is always an adventure, with her though...
jakemac
Well-known member
They're expensive, but it sounds like you might want to consider a pair of copper jaw covers for some of your work. You can take them off when Billy comes to "visit".
http://www.zorotools.com/g/Replacement%20Vise%20Jaws/00141728/?category=5316
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Fretters
Well-known member
If you want to increase your linguistic difficulties by an order of magnitude...
Be an old man from Alabama, married to an English Rose...
We both speak the same language...
Sort of...
I'll bet something like fish & chips could be a whole different meal across there too?
By eck, they're a bit steep. How thick is the copper, usually, on those copper covers?
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PAIR-OF-G...1?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item5af3db3bb9
I've bought many of these copper jaws that are Wilton and 6 inches wide for $30 shipped. i could trim them down for smaller vises, but have yet to do so and they work great. also my paypal barely gets processed and the package arrives at my door 3000 miles away. the sellers are awesome so giving them a big thumbs up too.
Cuda: also just an FYI. when i am cutting, sanding, grinding or whatever on something in the jaws of my vise i usually put a rag over the slide to keep the shavings out of my vises. it is easier to shake a rag off that might take some of your lubrication from your vise than to re grease or oil than to have to do a full cleaning when it gets gummed up with the crud.
Fretters don't change a thing and we'll get used to some of the words you throw at us. also just saw your post and these jaws are maybe an eighth inch thick. they are not flimsy, but the wings will bend down nicely down over your vise to hold them in place.
I've bought many of these copper jaws that are Wilton and 6 inches wide for $30 shipped. i could trim them down for smaller vises, but have yet to do so and they work great. also my paypal barely gets processed and the package arrives at my door 3000 miles away. the sellers are awesome so giving them a big thumbs up too.
Cuda: also just an FYI. when i am cutting, sanding, grinding or whatever on something in the jaws of my vise i usually put a rag over the slide to keep the shavings out of my vises. it is easier to shake a rag off that might take some of your lubrication from your vise than to re grease or oil than to have to do a full cleaning when it gets gummed up with the crud.
Fretters don't change a thing and we'll get used to some of the words you throw at us. also just saw your post and these jaws are maybe an eighth inch thick. they are not flimsy, but the wings will bend down nicely down over your vise to hold them in place.
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jakemac
Well-known member
I don't have a pair, but I think they're about 5-6mm (3/16"-1/4") at the jaw end, and thiner down the ears so they can bent over the back of the jaw for grip. They're hefty and copper ain't cheap.
Galvonzo
Well-known member
Well, I've got bad news. Late last week I was talkin about how vise hunting is sometimes like fishing with the wanted ad. Well, sometimes when you fish you'll get a bite, but the fish gets away. I called the guy yesterday to arrange to go pick it up, but he was talking as if he couldn't understand why when I already bought it. Well, apparently he already sold it someone else, with my same name! I asked him if he was the guy with the vise who responded to the wanted ad, and if he had talked to anyone else about it. Yes and No were the respective answers. The only explanation I got is that I must have a twin out there from a parallel universe who snatched it before I could.
Just for the record since I was holding out on a surprise for you guys, it was a leg post vise for $40. I guess that 40 will just go towards the next find. Oh well, back to fishing.
Just for the record since I was holding out on a surprise for you guys, it was a leg post vise for $40. I guess that 40 will just go towards the next find. Oh well, back to fishing.
Clik
Well-known member
School me on this one experts. Who made it? What was the quality on those U shaped slides (Is that what you call them)?
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
I don't know what brand but there were two of them on CL. one @ $60 & one @ $40 and also the one with all the vises on the shelf that was discussed a few pages back. Who said they come in 3's ?
wrenchguy
Well-known member
wasn't there a "keystone" manufacturer of vises?
bl00
Well-known member
That's a Hollands. I can't tell you about the quality because I've never had one.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I havent and one of this U slide vises either but from a design perspective, I would rate it above the channel slide vises, but below a machined slide Machinists vise, but not too far below.
epossum
Active member
Hello to all - new to this, but an old hand around the Wrangler Forum, so I have a few clues about how to participate.
Anyway, I have an old Reed vise I recently put back to work. I've had it for years and lucky for me it had a brand-new nut with it. The old one was stripped out so I replaced the nut. Now I face another problem - I need the tapered pin that holds the swivel jaw in place. I haven't had any luck finding one anywhere on the net. I no longer have access to an engine lathe or I could turn one and fit it in an hour or two.
The pin looks and measures up to about the size of a #12 tapered dowel pin. You can't buy them off the shelf either, though you can order one from a couple of places for an exorbitant price. To get to the point, does anyone have one or know where I can get one? It is for a Reed NO. 406.
Thanks for reading this!
Anyway, I have an old Reed vise I recently put back to work. I've had it for years and lucky for me it had a brand-new nut with it. The old one was stripped out so I replaced the nut. Now I face another problem - I need the tapered pin that holds the swivel jaw in place. I haven't had any luck finding one anywhere on the net. I no longer have access to an engine lathe or I could turn one and fit it in an hour or two.
The pin looks and measures up to about the size of a #12 tapered dowel pin. You can't buy them off the shelf either, though you can order one from a couple of places for an exorbitant price. To get to the point, does anyone have one or know where I can get one? It is for a Reed NO. 406.
Thanks for reading this!
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PghJKB
Well-known member
Clik[/URL][/IMG]
School me on this one experts. Who made it? What was the quality on those U shaped slides (Is that what you call them)?
That looks like a Hollands Keystone series vise, from CL in the burgh.
IMHO it is worth about halve his asking price.
Hollands Erie made some very fine vises, I got the impression that the Keystone series was a second tier brand for them. Ask for an image of the right side, it might have a K 3, or K 4 , etc. depending on the jaw size.
Check out bl00' post 5951 earlier in this thread.
JKB
First, I would like to say welcome to GJ!
Secondly - You have a VERY nice vise there, so congrats on that.
Lastly - this thread is watched heavily by many members, and you might get lucky with finding someone here that is able to make you one, or point you in the right direction. I would expect that you'll most likely end up having to make one though, as many of those pins were lost or damaged (there have been quite a few posts on GJ about people having to apply heat and such just to get them to come out).
Best of luck to you, thanks for sharing, and again, welcome to GJ.
PghJKB
Well-known member
Hi There epossum
Welcome to the thread.
Hey, your pin is a lost cause, best thing to do is send me the whole vise so I can put it next to it's little brother, my Reed 405 1/2.
Please hurry, little brother is crying...JKB
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bl00
Well-known member
Check this thread where Catalyze made a pin using a bolt and a grinder. Maybe that'll work for you.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100697
Fretters
Well-known member
Cheers for the info on the copper jaws chaps.
Regarding that jaw pin, I've no idea of the size, but would something like a morse taper, or similar, blank arbor cut down to length possibly do the job?
Regarding that jaw pin, I've no idea of the size, but would something like a morse taper, or similar, blank arbor cut down to length possibly do the job?
KMScott
Well-known member
If it is close to the pin in this drawing then PM me (Private Message). I have a couple.
The taper pins are a ****** to measure, I have a #20 Prentiss to go by but have struck out getting correct measurements from others for different sized pins.
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oldldh
Well-known member
Brother Scott to the rescue...
Once again!!!!
Once again!!!!
jsokoly
Well-known member
After a bit of dry spell on my vise hunting, I struck pay dirt! This was listed on CL as a "vice grip" for $15. I saw it last night and immediately recognized the screw knob as a Reed. The owner insisted that the vise had no manufacturer info on it and he told me he had been corrected and it was actually a vice and NOT a vice grip...and wanted to know if I was still interested!
I couldn't go get it until after work today so I was sure it would be gone but amazingly, he held it for me. He gladly accepted the $15 (I didn't try to haggle) and he said he was surprised there was so much interest because he had several calls! So, if I snagged it out from under one of you guys, I'm sorry, but not TOO sorry.
Reed 204 1/2. Lots of nasty paint and tape residue. It's headed for the electro bath tonight!
Happy hunting!
Jeff
I couldn't go get it until after work today so I was sure it would be gone but amazingly, he held it for me. He gladly accepted the $15 (I didn't try to haggle) and he said he was surprised there was so much interest because he had several calls! So, if I snagged it out from under one of you guys, I'm sorry, but not TOO sorry.
Reed 204 1/2. Lots of nasty paint and tape residue. It's headed for the electro bath tonight!
Happy hunting!
Jeff
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EOC_Jason
Well-known member
jakemac
Well-known member
Yup, I'm smelling some longhorned suckage.
bigcaddy
Well-known member
Good find on the Reed. Just be careful about snatching up Reed vises in EOC jasons area. Hes liable to come drive his forklift through your garage in a fit of rage