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So, why are the ratcheting wrenches 12 point?

czgunner

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It seems to me you don't really need the 12 point, because the ratcheting box allows you to position it wherever you like.
I've got a set of Mac midget 6 point ratcheting wrenches that I love.
Is there a US set of reversible 6 point ratcheting wrenches? Standard and long lengths of course!:thumbup:
 
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d.mcfarland

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They are not for breaking the bolt free and therefore do not need the better contact points. It's a speed thing.
 

Cap'n

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They are not for breaking the bolt free and therefore do not need the better contact points. It's a speed thing.

Exactly. I had an oddball 6 point one and I found it annoying to get it up into a tight spot then have to bring it back out to rotate the head a little so I could get it on the fastener.

Not as much of an issue with 12 points.

It really is the little things that make the difference.
 

kerryt1

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Maybe so they don't have to make both versions to accommodate 12 pt fasteners.

raceware_12pt_nut.jpg
 

Rico.

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It's one of those questions that will always be a mystery....

It's the same reason as why nearly all ratcheting wrenches have an open end
on the opposite side instead of ring/box end of the same size... Which would
make so much more sense.

IMHO the perfect ratcheting wrench would be a six point with a non ratcheting
12 point box/ring end on the other side. Try and find one of those. :p
 

Rico.

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Maybe so they don't have to make both versions to accommodate 12 pt fasteners.

raceware_12pt_nut.jpg


In other news.... Why are virtually all 12 point wrenches and sockets
Bi-Hex when virtually all 12 point fasteners are tripple square. :dunno:


i.e. the angles on the sockets and wrenches are 120 degrees,
but the angles on the fasteners are 90 degrees.
 

Ruger_556

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I've never stripped a bolt with 12 point anything (Wrench or socket) so I don't see it being an issue. I don't see why everyone cares so much about this... Yes, theoretically it's easier to round a bolt head off but has anyone actually done it with a good quality wrench or socket? The only times I've rounded anything off is when the rust has eaten away the head so much that a 6 point won't turn it either and out come the turbo sockets and a torch.
 

Rico.

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I've never stripped a bolt with 12 point anything (Wrench or socket) so I don't see it being an issue.
I don't see why everyone cares so much about this

I don't believe any of us really cares about this...

We're just a bunch of Chaps having a bit of a Chin Wag on an internet forum, that's all.
 

n8n

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I've never stripped a bolt with 12 point anything (Wrench or socket) so I don't see it being an issue. I don't see why everyone cares so much about this... Yes, theoretically it's easier to round a bolt head off but has anyone actually done it with a good quality wrench or socket? The only times I've rounded anything off is when the rust has eaten away the head so much that a 6 point won't turn it either and out come the turbo sockets and a torch.

I have... But at one point in time I was doing a lot of work on 50 year old barn cars. 6 points are still my go to, only reason I have 12 points is either ARP fasteners or I bought a lot of tools at yard sales/pawn shop/whatever. Now my box wrenches are 12 point mostly because 6 points are so rare (comparatively) but I do also have 6 points for the smaller sizes.

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jim1987

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They are not for breaking the bolt free and therefore do not need the better contact points. It's a speed thing.
Exactly what I was going to say. Plus the Carlyle's being 6 point was going to be my other comment.

Fwiw, I've used my gearwrenches on some pretty torqued down fasteners, no breaks, and no slips to date. Been situations where I was waiting for them to give and receive injury, but nope. Kept going.
 
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isr2kba

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I freely admit to misusing 12 pt box end wrenches and yes even 12 pt sockets on 6 pt fasteners for many years. More recently I have become prone to breaking fasteners free with 12 pt ratchet wrenches too when I think I can get away with it.

It's dangerous business and indeed heresy but I have not hit bottom and I'm not ready to stop.

Of course when the fastener is gnarly or cranked on tight, I'll reach for the best fitting tool I have.
 

nicksnothereman

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I believe mac ratcheting wrenches are 6pt

Cornwell and craftsman made some too. Not the combo wrench type the bar (I think the technical term is "plate" though) type.

I prefer 6 point but that's probably why ratcheting wrenches typically have an open end (combo style). Breaks with the open end, ratchet with the closed end.:dunno:
 

1950mercury

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Cornwell and craftsman made some too. Not the combo wrench type the bar (I think the technical term is "plate" though) type.

I prefer 6 point but that's probably why ratcheting wrenches typically have an open end (combo style). Breaks with the open end, ratchet with the closed end.:dunno:

Break loose bolts with an open end....good luck with that most spread open
 

n8n

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I'd rather have the 6 pt on the nonratcheting side.

That's what I was thinking as well. If the wrench is completely flat (non-offset) make the hex so you can flip wrench over for different handle orientation. 6 point on the ratcheting side seems overkill unless the ratchet mechanism is super beefy.

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CJM8515

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Have some very old snap on flat ratcheting wrenches probably from the 70's or 80's, all 6pt SAE.
 

ScottsGT

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I've never stripped a bolt with 12 point anything (Wrench or socket) so I don't see it being an issue. I don't see why everyone cares so much about this... Yes, theoretically it's easier to round a bolt head off but has anyone actually done it with a good quality wrench or socket? The only times I've rounded anything off is when the rust has eaten away the head so much that a 6 point won't turn it either and out come the turbo sockets and a torch.

Yep. Ask anyone that works on old cars with rusty bolts. When I bought my first set of Craftsman 12 pts. I learned quickly that old rusty bolts on Ford body panels and 12 pts do not get along with each other. When I first stepped foot onto a Snap On truck, my first purchase was the 6 point socket sets. It's all I ever use now due to habit.
 

n8n

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Yep. Ask anyone that works on old cars with rusty bolts. When I bought my first set of Craftsman 12 pts. I learned quickly that old rusty bolts on Ford body panels and 12 pts do not get along with each other. When I first stepped foot onto a Snap On truck, my first purchase was the 6 point socket sets. It's all I ever use now due to habit.

Substitute "Ford" for "MoPar" or "Studebaker" and I'm right there with ya.

However for someone starting out I would today recommend buying a 12 point mechanic's set (what? did I just contradict myself?) and a set of 1/2" drive impacts in shallow and deep. why? because there's only a very few limited applications in which you need a 6 point hand socket that a 6 point impact won't also work, and you're going to want the impacts later on when you get an air gun and compressor anyway. That way you have a set of both 6 point and 12 point sockets at your disposal for minimum cash outlay.

It took me 20 years to get around to buying air tools though... on the upside I'm in good shape :)

Also, the 6 points seem to make more of a difference in the smaller head sizes, once you get above a certain point (19mm / 3/4" ish?) it really doesn't seem to matter at all; if a 12 point rounds the fastener at that size so will the 6 point probably. Likely why you see very few 6 point sockets/wrenches in the larger sizes.
 
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