let's see your craftsman block grinders

[SweetD]

Found another one -

Just for documentation...$50, guy met me more than half way from his location. Took his word that it ran and was complete. Came out of his friend's father's workshop - I guess the father passed and this guy ended up with lots of the stuff and no interest in it.

I think the old guy was a woodworker primarily. The grinder is covered with old sawdust and grime, but virtually rust-free. I think what looks like rust is actually stain / paint. Looking forward to cleaning it up.

Indecently, there was no lamp or quench tray included, and it looks like this unit never had those options. Can't wait to find the date code on it (hopefully).

I did plug it in and it hums along very smoothly and nicely. Will make a great companion to my 1/2HP. I think I may turn this one into a two-wheel buffer.









I'll post some "after" pics when I get a chance...

Dave

 

[tedsters]

Found another one -

Just for documentation...$50, guy met me more than half way from his location. Took his word that it ran and was complete. Came out of his friend's father's workshop - I guess the father passed and this guy ended up with lots of the stuff and no interest in it.

I think the old guy was a woodworker primarily. The grinder is covered with old sawdust and grime, but virtually rust-free. I think what looks like rust is actually stain / paint. Looking forward to cleaning it up.

Indecently, there was no lamp or quench tray included, and it looks like this unit never had those options. Can't wait to find the date code on it (hopefully).

I did plug it in and it hums along very smoothly and nicely. Will make a great companion to my 1/2HP. I think I may turn this one into a two-wheel buffer.









I'll post some "after" pics when I get a chance...

Dave

i think you got a great grinder and a good price

 

[tedsters]

Found another one

Can't wait to find the date code on it (hopefully).

look on the bottom of the inspection cover

 

[SweetD]

look on the bottom of the inspection cover

I did take a look this evening, and there is a "OCT 9" on the bottom, but no year. You can just make out where the year has been smudged off.

Too bad...!

 

[jakemac]

Try a magnifying glass at different angles, you may still be able to decipher the imprint of the stamp.

 

[tedsters]

I did take a look this evening, and there is a "OCT 9" on the bottom, but no year. You can just make out where the year has been smudged off.

Too bad...!

take the bottom plate off the date is on the on/off switch also on the side below the part#

 

[torqueman2002]

I did take a look this evening, and there is a "OCT 9" on the bottom, but no year. You can just make out where the year has been smudged off.

Too bad...!

I use a trick my Dad showed me to reveal numbers on vacuum tubes - breath on the object and quickly see if the 'missing' numbers appear. Sort of like you do to clean glasses.

BTW - nice find!

 

[SweetD]

Thanks for the tips on deciphering the date guys, I will give them a try. I did find an owner's manual PDF for this model over on owwm, and it's dated 1963. So that gets me in the ballpark I would guess.

It's cleaning up nice so far:





QUESTION:

Seems that the PO somehow crushed a some of the threads on the wheel shaft, and made up for it by using washers as spacers to cover the messed up threads:



Too bad. Seems to work fine as is, but is it possible for me to re-thread the shaft where it's damaged? It's not damaged at the end of the shaft - I can get the nut fully on the shaft before it hits the damaged threads. I've never re-threaded anything before, but willing to try.

Or, do I just leave well enough alone?

Thanks!



Dave

 

[Outlawmws]

Is it the right hand thread or the left? Right is easy just chase it. If the left, a bit more hassle as the left hand dies/chasers are hens teeth. You could use a Thread file and clean them up, left or fight handed.

 

[SweetD]

Is it the right hand thread or the left? Right is easy just chase it. If the left, a bit more hassle as the left hand dies/chasers are hens teeth. You could use a Thread file and clean them up, left or fight handed.

Thanks Outlaw - luckily it's the right hand thread, so it sounds like a go.



Dave

 

[Major Ramifications]

Does anyone know if new safety glass pieces can be found for these block grinders? I just picked up a 1/3 HP model but one of the shields is cracked badly. I figured I would replace it with polycarbonate, but if I could get a piece of safety glass, that would make it more authentic.

 

[torqueman2002]

Does anyone know if new safety glass pieces can be found for these block grinders? I just picked up a 1/3 HP model but one of the shields is cracked badly. I figured I would replace it with polycarbonate, but if I could get a piece of safety glass, that would make it more authentic.

Ram...
I doubt you'll find new replacements; but you can search on the following links, Hint - search your model and other 1/4, 1/3 (1/2 ?) HP models, if your model # is not listed. Also, there are 2 different size eye sheilds with metal frames.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-grinder-parts-c-158286_159871.html

I recall a question and comments about what type of replacement glass should be used. It may have been on GJ, but I'll check elsewhere and let you know.

 

[organ]

I just picked up a 1/2 HP with a crappy plastic housing for $5. The model number is 257.192150. Is this one of the good ones? It feels really cheap.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Just a 1/3 hp job I bought for Dad nearly 40 years ago. It became mine in 1987.

 

[Outlawmws]

Major, talk to a good local Glass supply house, and explain what you need and about material and cutting costs.

 

[organ]

I just picked up a 1/2 HP with a crappy plastic housing for $5. The model number is 257.192150. Is this one of the good ones? It feels really cheap.

I took it apart. It's a *************. A waste of $5 even. So, you can't always go by the model number.

 

[torqueman2002]

Just a 1/3 hp job I bought for Dad nearly 40 years ago. It became mine in 1987.

S-R;

Nice! Using your Dad's tools is a big + !

Looks to be in very good shape; is that a CM stand, too?

 

[torqueman2002]

I took it apart. It's a piece of $hit. A waste of $5 even. So, you can't always go by the model number.

Pictures, please; or it didn't happen.

 

[jakemac]

I just picked up a 1/2 HP with a crappy plastic housing for $5. The model number is 257.192150. Is this one of the good ones? It feels really cheap.

I took it apart. It's a *************. A waste of $5 even. So, you can't always go by the model number.

It's from the correct manufacturer, but that isn't a block grinder. It's more of a "Box grinder". They were a lower end grinder built for light duty work.

For $5, you did fine. I would keep it as an auxiliary, or dedicate it for aluminum or brass only.

(picture grabbed from the internet)

 

[torqueman2002]

Correct prefix (257.), but I agree - not the CM Block [Motor] Grinder this thread refers to.

OP - look for more information above in this thread; and for a quick answer see these links. -->"Vintage Craftsman "Block Motor" bench grinder info -" Thread
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-motor-style-grinders
You can check on mfg. date, on this site --->
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/default.aspx

If you want $5, send me that 'piece of $hit'.

BTW - My first CL craftsman grinder wasn't actually a block grinder, but it set me on the quest for the real thing.

Here's a picture of my pre-Block grinder.

Link to rebuild. --> http://tinyurl.com/CM-GJ-Lil-Brownie-115-7566

 

[organ]

It's from the correct manufacturer, but that isn't a block grinder. It's more of a "Box grinder". They were a lower end grinder built for light duty work.

For $5, you did fine. I would keep it as an auxiliary, or dedicate it for aluminum or brass only.

(picture grabbed from the internet)

That's the same grinder. I think the windings are bad. I paid $5 because it would make a humming noise but the wheels wouldn't spin. I figured it was likely a bad capacitor but the windings are putting off a lot of heat accompanied by a pleasant burning smell. Oh well. I have a line on a real block.

 

[jsokoly]

Picked up a very nice 1/3 HP classic today. Still has the quench tray, maybe the original light bulb, and an extra grinding wheel. Starts and runs very quiet. I paid $45 but never blinked because it was in such nice shape. I'll dust it off and it will be a beauty!

Jeff

 

[jakemac]

That's the same grinder. I think the windings are bad. I paid $5 because it would make a humming noise but the wheels wouldn't spin. I figured it was likely a bad capacitor but the windings are putting off a lot of heat accompanied by a pleasant burning smell. Oh well. I have a line on a real block.

Organ -
Ahhhhhhhh, I see. In that case, sell off the parts to someone who needs them and make a small profit.

Picked up a very nice 1/3 HP classic today. Still has the quench tray, maybe the original light bulb, and an extra grinding wheel. Starts and runs very quiet. I paid $45 but never blinked because it was in such nice shape. I'll dust it off and it will be a beauty!

Jeff

Jeff, nice score. That grinder looks like it was barely used AND it has all it's parts.

 

[torqueman2002]

That's the same grinder. I think the windings are bad. I paid $5 because it would make a humming noise but the wheels wouldn't spin. I figured it was likely a bad capacitor but the windings are putting off a lot of heat accompanied by a pleasant burning smell. Oh well. I have a line on a real block.

These kind of motors, split-phase induction, will hum (and probably start to smell, smoke, get hot, ...) if the start winding is not activated. It is typically in the electrical circuit until about 80% of the rated no load RPM.

Try this very briefly, as you don't want to stress the run windings any more. Plug it in, switch it to ON. Give the grinding wheel a helping spin. If it does come up to speed, it may be fixable.

The cause could be several things depending on the actual design.

Post up pictures, of the outside and the wiring inside, with as much detail as you can get. But since this thread is for CM Block Grinders, please start a new thread and post up a link to it in this thread.

I'll help you as much as I can.

My $5 offer is still good, no kidding.

 

[torqueman2002]

Picked up a very nice 1/3 HP classic today. Still has the quench tray, maybe the original light bulb, and an extra grinding wheel. Starts and runs very quiet. I paid $45 but never blinked because it was in such nice shape. I'll dust it off and it will be a beauty!

Jeff

Nice nab!

I have seen far more 1/4 HP & 1/3 HP CM Block Grinders in almost new condition than I have seen any others.

They are great grinders, and your is particularly fine.

 

[organ]

These kind of motors, split-phase induction, will hum (and probably start to smell, smoke, get hot, ...) if the start winding is not activated. It is typically in the electrical circuit until about 80% of the rated no load RPM.

Try this very briefly, as you don't want to stress the run windings any more. Plug it in, switch it to ON. Give the grinding wheel a helping spin. If it does come up to speed, it may be fixable.

The cause could be several things depending on the actual design.

Post up pictures, of the outside and the wiring inside, with as much detail as you can get. But since this thread is for CM Block Grinders, please start a new thread and post up a link to it in this thread.

I'll help you as much as I can.

My $5 offer is still good, no kidding.

I tried that before taking it apart. If you want it, I'll send it to you. PM me. Now, is this one worth a 200 mile round trip drive http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4355191517.html ? I called the lady and she's asking $50 for it. Add $20 in gas to that.

 

[drivesitfar]

Organ: that grinder looks ok from the so so pictures, but i'm more impressed that you only need $20 worth of gas to go 200 miles.

donate, trade or keep the $5 one for an "organ" donor for the next one if there is something missing. as some have found out the new parts are not quite the same.

 

[jakemac]

I tried that before taking it apart. If you want it, I'll send it to you. PM me. Now, is this one worth a 200 mile round trip drive http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4355191517.html ? I called the lady and she's asking $50 for it. Add $20 in gas to that.

Tough call. It looks complete (might be missing a quench tray ?) If it was around the corner it would be a strong maybe for me. With a long road trip, it would depend on what else she had that I wanted.

I guess you need to ask yourself Do I need it NOW ? or Can I wait for a closer one to show up ?

 

[torqueman2002]

I tried that before taking it apart. If you want it, I'll send it to you. PM me. Now, is this one worth a 200 mile round trip drive http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4355191517.html ? I called the lady and she's asking $50 for it. Add $20 in gas to that.

It's hard to say because markets vary, in SE Michigan the complete, great condition 1/3 & 1/4 HP Block grinders can go from ($15 - $35).

Also, it depends upon how long you can wait for the right grinder & will 1/3 HP do what you want - light grinding, rust removal?

I bought a new Dayton 1/3 HP Grinder (Grainger) that is every bit the equal to my 1/2 HP CM Block grinders.

At $70, you are more than 1/2 the way to a new 1/3 HP Dayton.
http://tinyurl.com/q6z6pte

Good luck. I/M on it's way.

 

[-Brent-]

Here are mine. They're not currently mounted as I've redone the tops on my bases and need to insert threads and find something to isolate the vibration.

The machines are all set up differently. One hasn't been messed with since I got it, it still needs to be cleaned up and set up to the way I want it.







The above grinder is the one that hasn't been touched since I got it. The plan is to run a Jacobs chuck off of it and on the left, I'm not sure. Either an aluminum only disk/wheel or a crimped wire wheel or ?. As you can tell, it's sat because I haven't really figured it out. I've been spending more time setting up my space than working in it. Once I get to working in it, I'm sure what I use/need most will be clear.

 

[torqueman2002]

Brent - nice!

You're closer to realizing my planned set-up than I am!

 

[-Brent-]

Brent - nice!

You're closer to realizing my planned set-up than I am!

Thank you.

I've been working on setting up and organizing my space a few hours every week. I've been condensing/downsizing my tools. Especially items that do similar tasks as others. So, out went the 3-wheel band saw because the Milawaukee portable does the trick better. Plus, I got some accessories that expand its usability. The same is true for a bunch of other items throughout the garage. It's helped me to free up a bunch of space.

As well, I've gotten rid of all my pedestals. Although I really like the look of them, they don't offer me the function that the boxes do.

I'm pretty militant about narrowing down multiple big items. So, these grinders have been something I go back and forth on. I love the usefulness and diversity of having the four of them but I wonder if it's too much for me.

I look at a few buddy's shops and they have relatively simple shops. Then I take a look at mine and, man, it makes me want to free up even more space.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

S-R;

Nice! Using your Dad's tools is a big + !

Looks to be in very good shape; is that a CM stand, too?

Yes, it is a Craftsman stand. He had built a wooden stand for the grinder originally, but it didn't last, so at Christmastime, I bought him the stand for it also. Should have seen him trying to muscle that thing around while trying to open it, poor guy. But he was tickled when he got it open. Think I paid nearly as much for the stand as the grinder from what I remember. Good memories, and you're right, using Dad's tools always leaves me with a good feeling. Like he's watching over me.

 

[cagullett1]

It's hard to say because markets vary, in SE Michigan the complete, great condition 1/3 & 1/4 HP Block grinders can go from ($15 - $35).

Also, it depends upon how long you can wait for the right grinder & will 1/3 HP do what you want - light grinding, rust removal?

I bought a new Dayton 1/3 HP Grinder (Grainger) that is every bit the equal to my 1/2 HP CM Block grinders.

At $70, you are more than 1/2 the way to a new 1/3 HP Dayton.
http://tinyurl.com/q6z6pte

Good luck. I/M on it's way.

Have you been happy with the Dayton? I'm having a hell of a time finding a single 397 CM grinder, regardless of size and condition. If I find one ever, I feel like someone is going to be askign $200 for a 1/2HP grinder. I'm getting to a point where I can't go any longer without an additional grinder, and the 1/3 Dayton looks tempting, especially if I can get it when Zoro does their 30% off flash sales.

Anyone from SE Michigan want to sell a decent CM grinder and ship it to me?

 

[tedsters]

Picked up a very nice 1/3 HP classic today. Still has the quench tray, maybe the original light bulb, and an extra grinding wheel. Starts and runs very quiet. I paid $45 but never blinked because it was in such nice shape. I'll dust it off and it will be a beauty!

Jeff

i would pay $45 for as many as i could find in that good of shape, kind of curious what the year is on yours should be on the bottom plate i don't think they started putting the plastic switch on till 1971 or 72 i could be wrong if i am i am almost positive i will get schooled on it.
Darn nice grinder

 

[jsokoly]

Have you been happy with the Dayton? I'm having a hell of a time finding a single 397 CM grinder, regardless of size and condition. If I find one ever, I feel like someone is going to be askign $200 for a 1/2HP grinder.

so I'm guessing you didn't pay the guy in Lewisville for the black 1HP? I pinged him as well and he badgered me with text messages and finally offered to sell it for $80 and then I found the 1/3 HP for $45. I sent him a txt telling him I didn't need his and an hour later he sent a txt saying he sold it for $150. I see it's still listed for $100 so I don't know if he sold it or not. I know it's not a 397 but it looks like a nice grinder but a bit of a drive for me.

 

[torqueman2002]

My answers are in Blue.

Have you been happy with the Dayton? I have it set up with grinding stones, and use it in the garage/shop. It will be replaced when I rebuild a CM 1 HP that is close to done. I do like it. Model: 4Z672D, Made in Taiwan
Anyone from SE Michigan want to sell a decent CM grinder and ship it to me? You will pay dearly for the shipping, as you know - they're heavy and bulky. I/M sent.

 

[cagullett1]

so I'm guessing you didn't pay the guy in Lewisville for the black 1HP? I pinged him as well and he badgered me with text messages and finally offered to sell it for $80 and then I found the 1/3 HP for $45. I sent him a txt telling him I didn't need his and an hour later he sent a txt saying he sold it for $150. I see it's still listed for $100 so I don't know if he sold it or not. I know it's not a 397 but it looks like a nice grinder but a bit of a drive for me.

He badgered me for 3 days straight, even after I said I wouldn't pay over $80 for it. He definitely didn't sell it. It's a 257, but I don't think I'm in the market for a grinder that big. Let me know if you ever decide to part with that awesome 1/3HP you scored. Where in the world did you find it!?

 

[softailgarage]

Can somebody tell me if this is normal/OEM? I opened another grinder to trade relays (one for a lamp) and found the coil winding's tied. It also looks like the coil got hot at some point. Any thoughts?

 

[jsokoly]

Where in the world did you find it!?

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/tls/4382089330.html