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The VISES of Garage Journal

va.grouseman

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Alexbn 921-----The model 34 is the predecessor to the newer Reed 4C----See on page 7,----post #131, of ("Everything you need to know about bench vises"). That said, I think your 934 is the stationary equivalent. The 34 weighed 178lbs, how much does the 934 weigh?-----Nice heavy duty vise there.
 
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thundermug

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Cuda - I have the same vise under the Craftsman label. 3.5" jaws, fixed base. I have since cleaned it up and put a new handle on it, but it's not quite right. What's the overall length of your handle, and what's the diameter of the ball at the end?

https://scontent-b-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/944762_645045976352_256515456_n.jpg


It's not this pretty anymore. Photo is about a year old.
https://scontent-a-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/1098153_645043521272_1752927473_n.jpg
 

t4runner

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Lake Grove. NY
Picked this vise up today on a whim. I paid $25 for it but don't know to much about it or its value. Any information would be appreciated.
 

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jakemac

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New England
Good to know! Thanks! Is boiled linseed oil readily available?

The biggest difference between boiled and raw linseed oil is that the raw oil will get tacky and stay that way for a long time. It's what's used in most tack cloths for wiping off fine dust on wood working projects. Boiled linseed oil has drying additives, as previously stated. It will dry (eventually) and leave a protective coating on the surface. You may need to build up several layers and do an occasional touch-up once a year or so, depending on usage. Let it dry well before reapplying. Thin coats will dry faster, thick coats may take some time to dry (months) or just stay tacky if the additives evaporate too fast.

It works well on wood as a finish, but takes time to build up a good coating, one thin coat at a time. Once a thick coat is built up and dries fully, it will take a good buffing to a high shine.

Class dismissed ....................... :lol:
 

Mark in Indiana

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Southern Indiana
Picked this vise up today on a whim. I paid $25 for it but don't know to much about it or its value. Any information would be appreciated.



American Scale vises are top shelf. Although there isn't much information (that I could find) they were in business until around 1960. Yours has a lot of similar features that my 75H has. So I would guess that it was built around WW2.

As for what you paid for it...you need to go to church to get forgiven for that steal. :evil: :thumbup:

BTW: Do you know anything about the brass tag?
 

Fretters

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Thin coats will dry faster, thick coats may take some time to dry (months) or just stay tacky if the additives evaporate too fast.

There is always that possible drawback. :D I have a few pieces here which I applied it to and left the excess rather than removing it, several months ago, and they're still slightly soft. It's internal casting protection, so matters not. Curious to see as to whether it'll ever oxidise and harden fully though. :D
 

t4runner

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Lake Grove. NY
American Scale vises are top shelf. Although there isn't much information (that I could find) they were in business until around 1960. Yours has a lot of similar features that my 75H has. So I would guess that it was built around WW2.

As for what you paid for it...you need to go to church to get forgiven for that steal. :evil: :thumbup:

BTW: Do you know anything about the brass tag?

Thanks. I really had not seen this make of vise before. So I thought I was taking a chance on it although $25 is not much of a risk. That tag I don't know anything about either.
 

t4runner

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I did a little research and the tag has something to do with property of the railroad
My guess would be what is now the MTA
NYA---New York Atlantic
NYC---New York City
L.I.----Long Island
 

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CudaChick1968

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Cuda - I have the same vise under the Craftsman label. 3.5" jaws, fixed base. I have since cleaned it up and put a new handle on it, but it's not quite right. What's the overall length of your handle, and what's the diameter of the ball at the end?

https://scontent-b-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/944762_645045976352_256515456_n.jpg


It's not this pretty anymore. Photo is about a year old.
https://scontent-a-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/1098153_645043521272_1752927473_n.jpg


Thanks Thundermug! I just snuck in for some quickie peanut butter toast and a glass of chocolate milk but will get those measurements this evening.

Your Craftsman turned out GREAT!! Thanks for sharing -- I love the brass knobs especially. I'd be inclined to buy some nice brass bolts and washers for the bench just to tie in with it. :D You set the bar pretty high with that resto. Nicely done sir! :beer:
 

AndrewH

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Sep 8, 2013
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685
Location
Three Rivers, MI
I realized that I haven't posted either of my vises in this thread. I bought a Parker 973 about a month ago and was/is my first vise. Today I picked up a Morgan Chicago 140 which doubled how many I have. Well, enough talking, here's the pictures:

Chas Parker 973

20140215_183057.jpg


Morgan 140

20140321_101003.jpg
 

bigcaddy

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Jan 17, 2012
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Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
Its been a busy Spring week with thanks to Zoomieport for the heads up on a nice old Chicago Wilton C1 in my neighborhood!!

I got out this morning to one sale and grabbed a nice Athol 3 1/2" vise for a few bucks and dug out this pneumatic vise, with foot pedal, from under the workbench.
 

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bigcaddy

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Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
Here is the Wilton C1 that i snagged for a killer price and, aside from the missing base, is in great shape.

There are a few cutting torch scarfs but no cracks or major damage. Lots of small dings on the slide on the upper side from use but nothing to worry about.

The jaw faces has lots of life in them but they have been flipped more the once since you can see little spots on the underside when they have been damaged already.

No date on the keyway but i could be further back or obscured by some heavy grease/grime.
 

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bl00

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Chantilly, Virginia
American Scale vises are top shelf. Although there isn't much information (that I could find) they were in business until around 1960.

Mark, I found a little more info on them. Apparently they were resurrected after the bankruptcy:
1963 "now a division of The Marley Co" - Red Seal vises available in 5 sizes (per Heating & Air Conditioning Contractor 1963)
1963 Marley Co., Kansas City, Mo., purchased American Scale & Vise Co (Industry Week Vol 153)
1963 American Scale & Vise Resumes Production, The American Scale & Vise Co. has resumed production on its full line of vises for home and industrial use. The company is operated as a division of the Marley Co., Kansas City, Mo (Hardware Age Vol 191)
1971 company is referenced in trade catalogs up to 1971 (Google Books)
 

ShadowRuleZ

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Feb 27, 2011
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Location
Detroit
Here is the Wilton C1 that i snagged for a killer price and, aside from the missing base, is in great shape.

There are a few cutting torch scarfs but no cracks or major damage. Lots of small dings on the slide on the upper side from use but nothing to worry about.

The jaw faces has lots of life in them but they have been flipped more the once since you can see little spots on the underside when they have been damaged already.

No date on the keyway but i could be further back or obscured by some heavy grease/grime.

If that was the one on eBay with the local pickup I'm glad someone from here got it.
 

Craptain

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Apr 18, 2013
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Location
Tampa Bay FL
Here are 2 little guys i picked up last week. The Dunlap came from an estate sale and the Wilton was from the scrap yard.

The Wilton has already been mostly cleaned up but it won't open/close. I'm not familiar with the nut assembly so if anybody has one that works, post some pictures so i can get mine working again.

I really like the Dunlap. It has a big useful sort of look to it. 1st one I have seen.
The wilton though is a real winner to me, being a woodworker. Also the 1st but one I could actually envisage using. Two great scores.

Scrap yards round here do not have, or at least admit to, vises for me to buy. In fact they do not sell very much at all. The best yard stopped selling 2 years ago. :(
 

theVirginian

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Mar 20, 2014
Messages
16
First time poster here, figured this was as good as any to lose the ole new forum virginity. I own several original Record woodworkers vises and a Littleton that belonged to my father. I also have a few China err Harbor Freight cheapies for misc. small jobs. So I've used a few in my day, as it were!

However, I am looking at a Prentiss No. 92 Bulldog vise recently listed on Craigslist but it has some damage. Having seen other examples of what this vise should look like, I've outlined the damage in red. It's listed at $50 dollars, which I feel is not a bad price - but I am concerned about that damage on the tail end.

Anyone here have any information or cautions about purchasing vises with this type of damage they would share? I've done a small bit of welding but never with cast iron. I could take it to a shop but unsure about whether it would justify the cost versus value of vise. It's not for resale, just for my personal shop.

I've become familiar with Prentiss and I know they are definitely decent - just throwing a line out and see what comes back! If all goes well tomorrow would be the pickup day.

Thanks!
 

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Alexbn921

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East Bay Nor Cal
Alexbn 921-----The model 34 is the predecessor to the newer Reed 4C----See on page 7,----post #131, of ("Everything you need to know about bench vises"). That said, I think your 934 is the stationary equivalent. The 34 weighed 178lbs, how much does the 934 weigh?-----Nice heavy duty vise there.

I would guess 170+, it is huge. I don't really have a use for a vise that big.:scared: I really want a 4-5 inch wilton with a swiveling face.
 

Craptain

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Tampa Bay FL
And finally the last of them ... this is the only "damage" on the jaws!

068 - Copy.jpg

069 - Copy.jpg

071 - Copy.jpg

Is that hole FOR something?

075 - Copy.jpg

076 - Copy.jpg

The screw [yayyy, no loose pin to replace woo hooo!!] has an "E" next to it. :dunno:

077 - Copy.jpg

It's shorter than Billy's is ... but it opens further. :D His 17" opens up to 4 3/4" but my little Reed spun out to 6" before it wanted to fall over. Thus, it was time to stick up The Rules before he got any funny ideas.

082 - Copy.jpg

So there we have it fellas, my new-to-me vise ready for ya'll to school me on ... and what will probably turn out to be merely the beginning of my Vise Vice disease. :D

It's gonna make you proud. :D

Oh, looking at the last pic I guess it already made you proud. :thumbup: And protective. :shoot5:
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Virginian: yes that Prentiss vise is an awesome vise, but that is not an easy fix. I've seen some of the more talented GJ members do a V shape grind on it and fill with weld/braze and then mill it flat. now if you have that talent or a friend that can help you then by all means save that vise. also just an FYI when the former idiot that broke the back of the slide it could have widened it so it won't slide all the way out and that will need to be fixed too. it might work as is even if the jaws are a little loose, but you'll have your hands full.

Alex: now really a member of the Vise squad and a vise is too big. pick it up and i'll trade you a Rock Island swivel jaw that is a 3.5 inch for it. or how much is he asking?

68: i'm a little late to the party, but I agree with everybody on saving the patina and Gramps awesome looking vise you acquired. one of the sweetest vises on the thread in a while.

Cuda: glad you finally have the Reed and looks like you almost have it ready for action. of course you can do as you wish, but stickers are not allowed on the Vises of Garage Journal as far as i know unless it's a brand of the vise. now rules can change for someone as nice as you, but if you want to keep the paws of your co workers away here are a couple ideas. make a hood ornament for it like an old oil pan as some of the guys use for their outside vises and with proper padding inside it the vise will not suffer. make a coat for it with any writing on it you choose. or keep the sticker because it is now "your" vise.
congrats
 

Outlawmws

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Virginian, the slide IS fixable. what welding skills/tools do you have?

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Cuda Chick, Glad to see you got your vise and and how nice it is! Pretty weird about the deep corrosion on th one end of the handle! Looking forward to seeing what you do with it!

BC: what can I say? Man you are killing it with vises lately! The Pnuematic vise looks cool! is it for a mil of some sort? is it air of fluid? what size are the jaws?
 

theVirginian

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Mar 20, 2014
Messages
16
@ drivesitfar : Thanks for the heads up and the info, much appreciated. It would be my first vise restoration, but I figured we all have to start somewhere! I've restored many vintage tools and a few cars, so I'm not beyond taking on a project - something to be said about saving something from being trashed and returning it to a serviceable state (as I'm sure many of you would probably agree). I take care of all my tools and still have the original set of mechanics tools my old man got for me when I was 12, so yes, seeing this broken definitely makes me cringe.

@ Outlawmws : Love the optimism man. As far as welding skills, I'd have to say beginner level. My main skill set is woodworking, but any material that can be milled, machined, welded, bolted, cut or otherwise manipulated is of interest! Metalworking wise, I've worked extensively with copper in a fine art setting - but not with steel. Welding wise it's limited to SMAW and wire. TIG welding I've never done nor do I own a welder currently. Living near an industrial area, there are plenty of places I know to go where I could use a welder, most likely stick, or I could simply take it somewhere as honestly, I do not believe myself to be competent enough of a metal worker to fix this myself.

Another option, as drivesitfar has suggested, would be to simply see if it could be used as is. I'd like to fix it obviously, but haven't paid someone to weld (and as such unsure of what I could expect to pay) or risk using it in an as-is state. Unsure if the damaged area, because I've yet to see it in person, is a critical area for the overall strength of the vise.

Again, thanks to all who have answered so far!
 

drivesitfar

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http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234755&highlight=prentiss+repair&page=2

Virginian: this thread has a bigger crack and some good pictures for you to see along with some words of wisdom. depending on where you live there might be a Vise guy with the talent willing to help you for a fee that has actually done this fix before. this is fairly common unfortunately because nobody told all our parents, grandparents and great grandparents not to hammer on the back of the slide. I guess they didn't have the internet back then.

also welcome to Garage Journal and the Vise thread in case you hadn't already been welcomed. glad to have you and good luck on the old Prentiss if you decide to take it on.
 

theVirginian

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drivesitfar : Appreciate the words of guidance and the link. Always helpful to see what others have done, gives a dose of encouragement no doubt. Thinking that for the $50 bucks, it's worth it to try and save the old girl. I've spent more and gotten less so, if nothing else I'll get a somewhat/ maybe/ hopefully usable vise in as-in condition (that or another reason for my old lady to give me ****!). I'll have to search around for a vise guy, a lot of folks around here working in the shipbuilding / heavy industries so lord knows there's no shortage of welders.

Thanks for the welcome, seems like a good place for lots of information and good folks too. Creeped around for a bit before I signed up, impressed with everything thus far. I'll post up some better pics of the Prentiss when I pick her up, the shaky photo doesn't do much to reveal the true state.
 

FlyingLow

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Mar 10, 2014
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Vancouver Island
Well I picked up the "Cleveland" vice that's actually a Columbian today. I willingly handed over $35 and was handed back $5 which made it better, the people were good to deal with so I wasn't going to bicker about price. Cleaned it up a bit, lubed and tightened the jaws, I think it's in pretty nice shape. They didn't have the piece for the hole in the back of the anvil part. I might paint the lettering but for now it's going to stay the way it is. I'll have to look tomorrow at what paint I have around...
 

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larry4406

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Well I picked up the "Cleveland" vice that's actually a Columbian today.... They didn't have the piece for the hole in the back of the anvil part....

I have two Columbian D44's - one with hole and one without in the anvil portion. The one with the hole has "Cleveland" on the one side while the one without the hole says "Made in USA". At the bottom of the hole it appears as if a ball bearing has been put in it. What is this hole for and what "piece" are you referring too?
 

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bl00

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I think you guys are missing the other damage on this. Compare the height of the slide near the front jaw with what is sticking out the back. It looks like part of the slide is broken off. Also there is a large chunk missing from the main body of the vise just above where the slide comes out the back. With this damage you may also find that the slide support is broken off and missing.

You can find a much better vise for $50 in your area.
 

va.grouseman

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Southern-Central VA.
Previously posted by Alexbn921

I would guess 170+, it is huge. I don't really have a use for a vise that big. I really want a 4-5 inch wilton with a swiveling face.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Alexbn921-------Hang on to the big one. You may not need it now but if you hang around The Garage Journal long, you will find that your needs and wants are going to change. These guys have a lasting, albeit positive/negative effect on people, depending on how you look at it. You unload the big one now, you'll kick yourself latter. That's a given. And it's getting harder and harder for the big ones to make it to the surface.
 

fullthrottle24

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Ohio
I have two Columbian D44's - one with hole and one without in the anvil portion. The one with the hole has "Cleveland" on the one side while the one without the hole says "Made in USA". At the bottom of the hole it appears as if a ball bearing has been put in it. What is this hole for and what "piece" are you referring too?

The Columbian D series are workshop vises. They are good light to medium duty, perfect for homeowner. The older ones have the cutoff tool, newer ones don't. Newer ones are also marked with a M and a series number, I.E. M2.
 

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Outlawmws

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I think you guys are missing the other damage on this. Compare the height of the slide near the front jaw with what is sticking out the back. It looks like part of the slide is broken off. Also there is a large chunk missing from the main body of the vise just above where the slide comes out the back. With this damage you may also find that the slide support is broken off and missing.

You can find a much better vise for $50 in your area.

Yup, all I was looking at was the crack. With all else B100 noted, it's a pass.
 

FlyingLow

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Vancouver Island
I have two Columbian D44's - one with hole and one without in the anvil portion. The one with the hole has "Cleveland" on the one side while the one without the hole says "Made in USA". At the bottom of the hole it appears as if a ball bearing has been put in it. What is this hole for and what "piece" are you referring too?

Nice vises, that red one looks really good. Like fullthrottle24 says the hole is for a cutting tool but I'm not sure how it works and mine is missing too.

The Columbian D series are workshop vises. They are good light to medium duty, perfect for homeowner. The older ones have the cutoff tool, newer ones don't. Newer ones are also marked with a M and a series number, I.E. M2.

Thanks for the info. I will go easy on it. I have my green beast for heavy use.
 

jakemac

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I have two Columbian D44's - one with hole and one without in the anvil portion. The one with the hole has "Cleveland" on the one side while the one without the hole says "Made in USA". At the bottom of the hole it appears as if a ball bearing has been put in it. What is this hole for and what "piece" are you referring too?

Its for inserting a cutoff tool, like a cold chisel that plugs into the hole. Blacksmiths would call it a "Hardy".
 

drivesitfar

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Flying Low: here's a similar vise to yours that has been painted and restored. also another similar one with the little hardy in the hole. that anvil is really not meant to be pounded on as you probably already know.

Virginian: B100 found another issue that you might have seen when you go see the vise in person. sometimes sellers try to hide cracks and missing portions of their vises so "BUYER BEWARE" is my motto. also they might just not know that is a big deal if they never opened the vise more than a couple inches. in your search for a good old vise check for cracks, welds, missing piece of cast and the jaws and their screws. rust usually isn't a big deal, but makes more work so hopefully price adjusted for it's condition.
 

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CudaChick1968

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Northwest Tennessee (38230)
Cuda - I have the same vise under the Craftsman label. 3.5" jaws, fixed base. I have since cleaned it up and put a new handle on it, but it's not quite right. What's the overall length of your handle, and what's the diameter of the ball at the end?

thundermug, the handle is 9 1/4" long (including the knob ends) and the knobs are about 7/8" the best I can tell. It doesn't look like the knob ends come off -- I couldn't unscrew them and didn't see any indication that they aren't part of the handle ... but I'm probably wrong. :D

I was successful in finding another Reed 103 1/2 R on CraigsList for sale -- more than I paid and not in nearly as nice of shape -- but can't find out much about what it originally looked like. What color(s) is it supposed to be?
 
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