Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

[Jimbo..]

Just finished this entire thread, which is a heaping stack of awesome smothered in awesome sauce. I love it all. I now have about a dozen new things on my wish list... from a Festool setup (so I can build my garage cabinets), to a new pair of pants with kevlar knee pads, to a freaking lathe. Admirable work all around, Gregor. It all looks gorgeous.

 

[GRS DESIGN]

Gregor.... the Guzzi is not that ugly...a lot of potential there. I have always been a fan of them they are not that common over here in fact quite rare......There is a great deal of fun to be had with the Rickman and Guzzi yet.....keep us posted on updates as they come....Cheers Glenn

 

[lilscorpion]

You sir, are an artist. I've managed to set aside my need for sleep to read this adventure beginning to end and it was worth it every bit though I might tell you I found NO enjoyment finding the last page! All of your cabinets are truly amazing. I find myself now needing to try edge banding, spend 10k in festool, order some pre-finished ply, and knock out the vanities I've planned for a few bathroom projects I have in the queue...what an fantastic thread.

And yet you drop these subtle hints of metal fabrication through out the thread (like your amazing bike, fireplace screen fix) which makes me want to weld and make chips too. A little stimulation to get back to the truck project that managed to stall end of last summer.

I'm fully subscribed.

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

I find myself now needing to try edge banding, spend 10k in festool, order some pre-finished ply, and knock out the vanities I've planned for a few bathroom projects I have in the queue...

It had the same effect on me. I'm hoping to start in a month or two on the bathroom vanity and I've never even made a cabinet so every bit of info and all detailed photos are welcome!

Plans are slowly coming together in my mind, but it'll take some time to get the details on paper and then make it into reality. If you start before I do. Please post your findings/lessons.

Cheers,
Jan

 

[Cseger1]

I'm pretty sure the loose blue tie wrap on the brake line is my favorite part. That or the fact that the PO went to the trouble to grind those beautiful bevels on the end of the bespoke square tube headlight bracket. I do love a craftsman.

 

[sakurama]

You sir, are an artist. And yet you drop these subtle hints of metal fabrication through out the thread (like your amazing bike, fireplace screen fix) which makes me want to weld and make chips too. A little stimulation to get back to the truck project that managed to stall end of last summer.

I'm fully subscribed.

Dude, I'm flattered. You're the first person I'd seen who was equally at home in both wood and metal and blended them. Before that all my friends were either one or the other. Your thread (which everyone here should read - check his sig line) is the most amazing one here. Nothing half assed, all over the top and chock filled with amazing ideas - I plagiarize liberally.

Okay, enough bromance.

It had the same effect on me. I'm hoping to start in a month or two on the bathroom vanity and I've never even made a cabinet so every bit of info and all detailed photos are welcome! If you start before I do. Please post your findings/lessons.

Cheers,
Jan

Check lilscorpions' thread - he did a hybrid cabinet design which worked really well. He also has a lot of inventive storage ideas - split drawers, pull out cabinets, vertical storage with french cleats for tooling. He's an idea factory.

And here's a thread for you from FOG:

Building Kitchen Cabinet Series

This guy is a very accomplished hobbyist and full on Festool Junkie and he does a really great job explaining things, showing angles and teaching about the different tools. I've followed the whole series and have learned a lot.

Also, I can't say enough about building garage cabinets to start. It's no pressure and you can figure out your tools and methods. I'm very comfortable now doing the kitchen cabinets and that's because I worked up to it. It's sort of a win win since you learn the process and organize your garage.

I'm pretty sure the loose blue tie wrap on the brake line is my favorite part. That or the fact that the PO went to the trouble to grind those beautiful bevels on the end of the bespoke square tube headlight bracket. I do love a craftsman.

Bespoke - nice! Yeah, that headlight bracket will be tough to improve on. At least he went to the trouble to use the red duct tape on the non-working dzus fasteners.

Gregor

 

[memphisnate]

Maybe some point in life I'll have resources to put all of that cabinet making series into practice!

 

[metzger]

This is awesome. I love the architectural style of your house and shopped for a long time to find one myself, but it's not so easy here in KY. Everything looks great though, well done.

I've been dabbling in some woodworking myself lately, but haven't dedicated myself to it in the detail that you have. Great work.

 

[Modern Jess]

And here's a thread for you from FOG:

Building Kitchen Cabinet Series

Ah! Thanks for that link.

Actually, on second thought, Festool is involved. I might yet regret seeing that link after all.

 

[LCG]

This is what I love about GJ.

It does not matter how many hours you lurk on it, eventually you will find a thread that somehow you missed.

That thread will make you lean back and say - Holly ****!.

Awesome Work/House!

 

[YoungMedic]

GJ.

It does not matter how many hours you lurk on it, eventually you will find a thread that somehow you missed.

That thread will make you lean back and say - Holly ****!.

This should be in the header!

 

[sakurama]

Honestly I don't have too much to post despite being absent for a few weeks. I had a few projects in NYC and then when I came home I had to catch up on things, take care of sick kids and general not working on the house sort of things. It makes me nuts to have so much half done stuff sitting around. I don't mind a project or two being half done but when your whole life is like that it can make you nuts.

So I did the next best thing. I found a very simple project that could be completely done in the time the kids took their naps. Sound deadening the sink. I owe this to Dr. Klaun's suggestion way back in this thread. It took me forever to get around to it but I finally did it.

If you've never seen or used Dynamat it's sort of fascinating. It's a foil backed substance that I could only really describe as a very thick and heavy tar-like material with adhesive on one side and foil backing on the other. Application couldn't really be any easier; cut it with scissors, peal off the protective paper and press it onto back of whatever surface you want to quiet. I think if I'd known of this and how well it works I'd have done it to the tub as well.

I believe it works in part by adding mass but also by adding a damping effect that prevents the surface from ringing. Honestly I wasn't able to find a good explanation of why it works but I suspect that the slight viscosity of the material acts as a sort of shock absorber for the surface for which it's applied. In the end I have to say it's quite surprising how incredibly well it does work. I did a little video before and after which I think shows the effect but beyond that is the way that the sink now seems to more effectively convey the feeling that it's been carved out from the solid mass of the counter. It feels and sounds very substantial now whereas before it was quite obviously stainless sheet.



Click on that and you can see the before and after video.

Hopefully I'll get cracking again on cabinets as I really want to wrap them up. I've been waiting on 3mm walnut edge banding to come in which should be any day now.

G

 

[west coast]

Dynamat is great stuff, works great on Car doors and floors as well, I noticed you are into old stereo equip, this also works great at isolating vibration in Turntables and other equipment.

 

[JustinS]

I had never thought of using dynamat on a sink before....now you've got me thinking what else you could use it on.

Great work!

 

[dhubbard422]

...

I believe it works in part by adding mass but also by adding a damping effect that prevents the surface from ringing. Honestly I wasn't able to find a good explanation of why it works but I suspect that the slight viscosity of the material acts as a sort of shock absorber for the surface for which it's applied. In the end I have to say it's quite surprising how incredibly well it does work. I did a little video before and after which I think shows the effect but beyond that is the way that the sink now seems to more effectively convey the feeling that it's been carved out from the solid mass of the counter. It feels and sounds very substantial now whereas before it was quite obviously stainless sheet.

G

I believe that it's "all" (or mostly...) about the mass. A minimum of 1 lb/ft² is supposed to be the magic number. When I sound-proofed my Sprinter van (since sold) I used a product similar to Dynomat on the walls of the van, 1/2" plywood attached to the ribs and light-weight foil/foam "sound deadening" insulation in between. Only the heavy products (CLD tiles and the plywood) made any difference to the ear or when measured with a sound meter.

I am told that it is because the mass stops the resonance.

- Don

 

[lonestarky]

Noise is vibration. Something like a stainless steel sink can vibrate because the walls aren't very stiff, despite the creases stamped into them. Dynamat sticks to the surface and acts as a damper. A mass damper actually. The heavier the object, the less likely it is to vibrate or resonate harmonically. Dynamat prevents the sink from resonating by damping the motion of the sink walls in and out, and this eliminates the speaker like resonance the sink creates.

 

[sakurama]

I believe that it's "all" (or mostly...) about the mass. A minimum of 1 lb/ft² is supposed to be the magic number.

Noise is vibration. Something like a stainless steel sink can vibrate because the walls aren't very stiff, despite the creases stamped into them. Dynamat sticks to the surface and acts as a damper. A mass damper actually. The heavier the object, the less likely it is to vibrate or resonate harmonically. Dynamat prevents the sink from resonating by damping the motion of the sink walls in and out, and this eliminates the speaker like resonance the sink creates.

Well, very cool then. I always knew that mass would reduce noise but I suppose I thought that there might be something else at play since the weight isn't really that substantial.

It might be something like insulating walls. Supposedly about the only thing you can do to really make an improvement is to use double layers of sheetrock but to my ear when we added insulation to the walls the sound was quieter. Perhaps it simply changed frequency but whatever it was it was more pleasing.

Either way the Dynamat stuff really works. If I ever get my bucket truck out here (don't even ask) I will do the whole thing because that thing is loud as hell.

Gregor

 

[Stuart in MN]

I've heard of people using Dynamat (or other similar products) on PVC drain stacks as well, to dampen the sound of the water rushing through them.

 

[Pinz73]

I'm new to the forum but this is one of my favorite threads and proving to be very expensive, very quickly.

I started with this one thread, moved onto the FOG site, lots of reading, numerous videos, which lead me to spending an entire day at the Festool Connect show, and now I'm just waiting for my chance to run out and pick up a TS55, CT26, and MFT3.

Thank you!

 

[TiFJ]

It's related to vehicles but this website has some very good discussion on how sound deadener and other "quieting" materials work. Worth a read IMO.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

This is what I love about GJ.

It does not matter how many hours you lurk on it, eventually you will find a thread that somehow you missed.

That thread will make you lean back and say - Holly ****!.

Awesome Work/House!

That's perfectly appicable to your build

Check lilscorpions' thread - he did a hybrid cabinet design which worked really well. He also has a lot of inventive storage ideas - split drawers, pull out cabinets, vertical storage with french cleats for tooling. He's an idea factory.

And here's a thread for you from FOG:

Building Kitchen Cabinet Series

This guy is a very accomplished hobbyist and full on Festool Junkie and he does a really great job explaining things, showing angles and teaching about the different tools. I've followed the whole series and have learned a lot.

Also, I can't say enough about building garage cabinets to start. It's no pressure and you can figure out your tools and methods. I'm very comfortable now doing the kitchen cabinets and that's because I worked up to it. It's sort of a win win since you learn the process and organize your garage.

Gregor

Thanks Gregor. I'll dive into those! Already read lilscorpions' thread.

 

[sakurama]

While I am finally working on cabinets again I took a little time out to write an article for BIKE EXIF about one of my techniques. Check it out here if you're curious.

Okay, back to dados...

Gregor

 

[lonestarky]

Hi Gregor, excellent article. I found myself trying to accomplish the effect in my basement with my radial arm saw this morning. Not difficult at all actually. Thanks for the tip!

 

[sakurama]

Okay, it's been too long since I've done a proper update. Mostly because work, travel and a sequentially sick family have all combined to kick my *** and keep me out of the shop save a few hours here or there.

But I'm clawing my way back to productivity.

When I was in NYC I ordered 3mm solid walnut edge band since I wanted to split the difference between walnut veneer edge band and the hand cut walnut that I was using on the bathroom cabinet. In the mean time I prepped some walnut for the cabinet doors. I wanted to make sure I matched the doors so I looked for the veneer joint.

Then I cut straight down the middle and measured from there to the outsides so that would be the middle where the two doors meet.

That Woodpecker square has been a great help in keeping things square. Anyway, once the doors were cut allowing for the 3mm edge that I'd planned I couldn't stain or drill the holes for the cup hinges until that showed up.

So with that on hold I used a few spare hours between obligations to try to organize the shop. With storage not finished many things lack homes and so they litter every flat surface which makes me nuts. It might seem impossible but my studios were always spotless, white and empty. I like that. While I don't want a shop like that I do want a "place for everything and everything in it's place". So I started making places.

First was the right side of the miter saw where I hung my dovetail jig and the Festool MFS 700 jig.

The the left side are the wings to the Kapex stand which also work as out feeds for the MFT table and the Parallel Guides and a speed square just for the heck of it. These are things that don't get used all that often and are awkward so this works well.

Making all the little holders was a bit of a pain and using the jigsaw to make small fine cuts was a pain. Whenever I run into a problem like that I immediately think of what tool would be perfect and in this case it would be a band saw. I've needed one for ages and coming up against a problem like this gets me looking in Craigs List. Well, this time the stars aligned in the form of a small bandsaw that seemed perfect for me.

No, not the baby blue metrosexual color - that's just a bonus. No, it's this little baby.

A planetary gearbox. That is what sold me. Wood needs a fast speed and metal needs a really slow speed and I found this video online and saw how much the gearbox slowed the blade and I was sold. It's going to need a little bit of work here and there but it works as is and was a steal. And I'll be painting it gray of course.

Then the edge banding came in.

Umm, yeah, that's a heck of a roll of edge banding. So I decided to try it out by banding a scrap of walnut ply.

I glued it, then pinned it with the 23ga pin gun and then used tape to try to hold it down. It's a ***** on a few levels.

This taught me that glue, pins and tape aren't going to be the answer so I'm going to try Fastcap Speed Tape as I think that may be the perfect solution but I don't have any yet.

Okay, onto another project - the kitchen drawers.

In hindsight it would have been smart to make at least a few of the drawers the same size. Hindsight is 20/20 and so I have one drawer that's 838mm long and another that's 840mm - that can only be described as stupid. It's actually not that much extra work but still it seems like bad form.

While I've been doing very well on my measurements I screwed the pooch (seriously, where'd that expression come from?) on the back panel of the drawers.

But!

But I did it with extreme consistency. Every single back panel is exactly 1.5mm too wide...

While I was lamenting the thought of having to set up the parallel guides again to skim such a small amount I realized that my router table had a jointing feature.

Oh, Festool, how I love your fastidious features.

Yeah, baby. That's downright bang on the money. Nice.

So now I'm going to glue them up but I want to make some more squaring clamps or cut the bottoms and then use the bottoms to keep them square - not sure yet. Right now I've got to sand them all and joint the back panels.

Then I took on an important commission - my daughter kept stealing Judiaann's rings. Daddy to the rescue! Some scrap aluminum, a 13mm drill bit, a few decorative cuts and a quick polish and my daughter got her very first ring. She loves it.

Okay, that's all I have for an update. Thanks for watching!

Gregor

 

[TimRaleigh]

That photo says it all! Perfect. Great story.
Good luck on the banding.
Tim

 

[OHSCrifle]

Does that edge banding need to get sliced even with the face of the plywood? If yes, please explain how you do it.

 

[shirk]

I think the edge banding will get cut flush with the router.

Gregor this thread is one of the things I check daily on the internet, always look forward to seeing your updates.

 

[OJ Bartley]

I've heard of people using Dynamat (or other similar products) on PVC drain stacks as well, to dampen the sound of the water rushing through them.

I've also recently seen it used on exposed HVAC ducts in an unfinished basement to help keep vibration and noise transfer down. You don't need to fully cover the ducts, either, just place pieces of Dynamat on each section of duct so that they don't resonate so much. Reported results were varied, but generally there was some improvement seen. I figure I'll do this before closing things in. It can't hurt, and anything to help keep the noise pollution down is good. Oh, it also helped with the ducts popping and booming when the air comes on/off.

 

[madmikeee]

Then I took on an important commission - my daughter kept stealing Judiaann's rings. Daddy to the rescue! Some scrap aluminum, a 13mm drill bit, a few decorative cuts and a quick polish and my daughter got her very first ring. She loves it.

Okay, that's all I have for an update. Thanks for watching!

Gregor

That is, hands down, the best pic ever.. That smile is incredible!!

 

[vr4joe]

Subscribed. As an architect/contractor. I can really appreciate the details in this project. I'm very impressed with the finish work. Really nice work!

 

[Dr Klaun]

Honestly I don't have too much to post despite being absent for a few weeks. I had a few projects in NYC and then when I came home I had to catch up on things, take care of sick kids and general not working on the house sort of things. It makes me nuts to have so much half done stuff sitting around. I don't mind a project or two being half done but when your whole life is like that it can make you nuts.

So I did the next best thing. I found a very simple project that could be completely done in the time the kids took their naps. Sound deadening the sink. I owe this to Dr. Klaun's suggestion way back in this thread. It took me forever to get around to it but I finally did it.





If you've never seen or used Dynamat it's sort of fascinating. It's a foil backed substance that I could only really describe as a very thick and heavy tar-like material with adhesive on one side and foil backing on the other. Application couldn't really be any easier; cut it with scissors, peal off the protective paper and press it onto back of whatever surface you want to quiet. I think if I'd known of this and how well it works I'd have done it to the tub as well.

I believe it works in part by adding mass but also by adding a damping effect that prevents the surface from ringing. Honestly I wasn't able to find a good explanation of why it works but I suspect that the slight viscosity of the material acts as a sort of shock absorber for the surface for which it's applied. In the end I have to say it's quite surprising how incredibly well it does work. I did a little video before and after which I think shows the effect but beyond that is the way that the sink now seems to more effectively convey the feeling that it's been carved out from the solid mass of the counter. It feels and sounds very substantial now whereas before it was quite obviously stainless sheet.



Click on that and you can see the before and after video.

Hopefully I'll get cracking again on cabinets as I really want to wrap them up. I've been waiting on 3mm walnut edge banding to come in which should be any day now.

G

Glad you like this! In an open floor plan, noise attenuation is key.

 

[sakurama]

Does that edge banding need to get sliced even with the face of the plywood? If yes, please explain how you do it.

Yes, but my first tests with the router were disappointing. I'll let you know when I get there.

Gregor this thread is one of the things I check daily on the internet, always look forward to seeing your updates.

Thanks!

Subscribed. As an architect/contractor. I can really appreciate the details in this project. I'm very impressed with the finish work. Really nice work!

Thanks. I feel like I've lost some of my momentum lately so I'm working to get that back. It's so easy to get sloppy when you just want it done.

Glad you like this! In an open floor plan, noise attenuation is key.

Yes, I'm learning that. It's both good and bad however. Keeping the hifi at the low ceiling part of the living room and aiming it into the house has proven to be fantastic acoustically. There's no echo and the sound carries very well without being loud so there's the upside to it as well.

________________________ | | | _______________________


As I mentioned I lost a bit of momentum this week. After I got the first drawer built I wanted to put the others together but the shop was a disaster and there was just no room to build the other six drawers. The bandsaw might provide the solution for mitering the edge banding so I wanted to get that fixed and find a home for it and generally just start putting things away and cleaning. Cleaning is a good way to refocus and also to find your missing tools.

So I thought I'd take an hour or so and get the band saw running. When I bought it it was running but the owner kept the one pulley and belt so I needed to remedy that. Besides the planetary gearbox was going to necessitate remounting the motor. I almost took the time to do it right but I was able to control myself and left the motor on it's plywood base and just moved it over to align with the pulley and then mounted the linked belt because, again, I just wanted to get it running.

She'd (yes, it was a women woodworker - there's a ton here in Portland which is very cool) put a fence on but it was a sloppy contraption so I went to Rockler to buy some track that I could mount flush to the table.

Then I went through my stock collection and found a giant piece of aluminum angle that I had always thought would come in handy for something and cut a piece off on the cold saw.

And with some T-bolts and quick release clamps I made a quick and easy fence for the bandsaw and then replaced the friction blocks and rehung the door. Then I just tidied the thing up and replaced the cheap hardware where I found it.

At this point I swept out the wood side of the shop and came across the RapidAir system and decided that since the week was basically a wash on the drawers I might as well put my time into getting the shop in order. Besides, how long could installing the air take?

All day.

These are the parts of the "drops" of the RapidAir MaxLine system. I think the difference with the Maxline is that the fittings are metal. The basic system is plastic fittings. For some reason the instructions specify to assemble the threaded portions without teflon tape but to use pipe dope. I'd never done that but decided to try it.

I countersunk the mounting holes so I could use some star drive wood screws to hold them to the walls.

This tool bevels the plastic tube. If you've never seen this stuff it's sort of like a very thin aluminum tube covered in thin Pex. I'd heard that it was very difficult to work with as far as getting it straight but that turned out to be nothing. The aluminum holds a bend and it's quite easy to straighten the tube as it comes off the roll. If you've ever used Pex tube this is about a dozen times easier.

Most of what took time was getting the other fittings and having to run around to 3 or 4 places to get them. I also went to Harbor Fright with the intention of buying a shop press but I just couldn't do it. It was super cheap but then it was also super cheap. There's just something about a lot of (everything?) there that doesn't seem worth the time to remake in order to make it useable. I'll make a press down the road and do a nicer job but for now I just couldn't accept the sloppy build of it. Anyone have experience with hydraulics? I'm hoping to build a 20T press but with a hand pump instead of the ubiquitous bottle jack.

Oh, so how did the air system work? Horrible! Turns out that the pipe sealant I got (perhaps the wrong kind since I took the suggestion of someone at Home Despot) did not work at all. Nope. When I opened the valve it was like the sound of all the bicycle tires in Portland going flat at once (that's a LOT). Total fail. My friend Clipper happened to call about then to say that he wanted to be part of our upcoming degenerate Colorado to Portland motorcycle tour I'm planning and mentioned that he'd never had any luck sealing air systems without using teflon tape. Yeah - me too.

So last night after the kids went to sleep I solemnly pulled every block, cleaned them and reinstalled the fittings with teflon tape just like I would have done if I'd not read the stupid instructions. Stupid instructions.

While I haven't powered it up my fittings on the tank with tape have held fine so I'm guessing (hoping) that it will be okay now. Fingers crossed.

So for the rest of today and tomorrow I'm going to try to get the shop cleaned and put away. It's a mess that's been bugging me and it's time to stop treating it like a garage where things are dumped and like my shop. Wish me luck!

Gregor

 

[Skyline]

I presume that valve underneath the air fitting is to let out any condensation that builds up in the lines. You might want to move that away from the electrical outlet. Perhaps add an additional section of tubing to extend it below the outlet.

 

[DonTomas5150]

Read through all 38 pages and was very educated. Keep up the good work and keep those updates coming.

 

[Toxicscrew]

Here's the best piece of advice I can give about pursuing a career like that and the advice I give whenever I do speaking engagements or talks to younger photographers. Have a plan and don't have a backup plan.

If you're a career changer it's harder because you're already doing your backup plan and that's why most people can't make the jump. Security is hard to give up. When I was an assistant, training to be a photographer, I had no other plan other than to become a photographer. Zero. It meant that, in one way or another I was going to do it because I gave myself no other options. All the other assistants who had a "B" plan ended up going that way. Those of us who didn't became photographers. We then became successful because we were never satisfied with any success.

In a sense becoming successful is about being too stupid to listen to good advice. And persistence. Because it's not just clients that will shoot you down but also teachers and family and friends who think you should do something "safe". Generally those people have fallen back on "safe" careers after giving up on a dream.

That right there is worth what you paid!

Gregor

I just left a well paying job to come back and do this very thing again. And like you said, family tried to talk me into the "safe" route. Friends, oddly enough, didn't. Guess that's why they are my friends. Anyway, was having a bit of doubt about this course and needed to read that.
Thanks and kudos on your career, home & family!

edit: Did a blog post with your quote (full credit given). http://architecturalelements.co/uncategorized/keep-going-creative/

 

[onething]

I've been told that excess Teflon tape can come off and clog air tools. Never had that happen and always try to keep the tape away from the end just in case.

 

[bdking]

I've been told that excess Teflon tape can come off and clog air tools.

The same is the case with espresso machines- you don't want scraps of teflon tape getting stuck in the valves or gicleur. I've always used it on air fittings though.

 

[YoungMedic]

The same is the case with espresso machines- you don't want scraps of teflon tape getting stuck in the valves or gicleur.

 

[sakurama]

So I had mentioned that the shop was just too much of a mess to even work in and it was making me crazy. As I was putting in the air I had to keep stepping over my collection of short metal stock. A bit of a mess.

I decided to kill two birds with one board, or rather a few boards that were in my large stock pile. You end up with a lot of extra wood as you remodel a house and I'm trying to come up with ways of using it. So I built this very quickly with some cast off rips.

And since it turned out better than I expected I went ahead and edge banded and finished it so it would match the rest of the cabinets. Then I sorted out my various materials into type and shape. When I get a few more bins and am certain of the mix I'll label them.

Next I found a couple of cheap desk lamps from my old shop and made a baltic birch T-slot base for the Kapex station. I'm also replacing bulbs with LED's as I find them on sale.

Then I decided that I really didn't need the Kapex UG stand anymore as my miter station works very well so I removed the base, raised the table and then knocked out a little bit of space behind the saw so I could push it back a few more inches.

Then I calibrated the saw (again) and made a zero clearance fence to prepare for doing trim. Judiaann has asked that I switch from drawers to trim as she has a clean floor fetish and the gap between the floor and wall was making her nuts. So with a new mission I started painting the existing trim.

I'd been trying to decide about whether to try to match the trim to the floor but since it's maple that would be nearly impossible and in talking more with Ben we decided carrying the black through to the base moulding was going to be the best solution. I used a little laser measure to tally up all the walls that needed base and it was very fast to total up. 219' needed and 80' on hand.

More this week...

Gregor

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

Dammit Greg, you just have it all. I love how you embrase the "good tools and a clean work environment are the best foundation" -idea. Most likely you could have had most of the house done by the amount you've spend on tools, but it would not have been up to your standard. Great work!