SK Breaker Bar Rebuild

[GCncsuHD]

I have an old SK 1/2" breaker bar, that had the 1/2" drive shear off. It was not being "abused" at the time, there was no cheater pipe or anything being used when it let go, though it does show signs of abuse in the past (it was passed down from my grandfather, to my father, to me).

I would like to repair it and continue using it. I looked into warranty repair, but simply the fuel to get me to the nearest dealer would be more than double the cost of the repair kit I ordered online.

It is this style

And this is the repair kit

Is the pin simply pressed in? The ends of the pin sort of appear to be ground to the contour of the sides of the bar. Can it be hammered through with a drift, or does it require a hydraulic press (which I don't own, but have access to if needed). Just curious how to best go about replacing the head without damaging the tool further. Thanks.

 

[Steinmetz]

I own a few of those. Same vintage. They're very nice.

I believe the pin is pressed in. I also believe it may be driven out with a hammer and a (brass) drift punch.

 

[Hpozzuoli]

For future issues just mail Things to SK for warranty. I have sent a few things. They are very good with that stuff.

 

[Steinmetz]

BTW, the most common form of abuse is evidenced by dents in the tool inflicted by a steel hammer. The knurled portion is particularly vulnerable.

 

[Farmall450]

For future issues just mail Things to SK for warranty. I have sent a few things. They are very good with that stuff.

They are, but just like ratchets, breaker bars are to be rebuilt not replaced.

 

[GCncsuHD]

For future issues just mail Things to SK for warranty. I have sent a few things. They are very good with that stuff.

Possibly, but the rebuild kit was under $5 shipped to me as a NOS piece. And I was unclear with the status of their warranty work since they have changed hands a few times in the last decade. I actually broke the bar a few years ago, but at the time SK's website said they were restructuring and were not accepting any new warranty claims until things were settled.

Shipping the bar to SK would have probably cost more than that and then there is still the risk that they would deny the warranty due to signs of abuse-marks from cheater pipes on the body. Though I have actually never used a cheater pipe on this particular bar, my father and grandfather have I'm sure.

Besides, I wouldn't want to wind up with a replacement bar that they had already rebuilt, or a newer replacement, there is a bit of nostalgia in knowing my grandfather, who I never met, used this very same tool.

 

[Parabellum]

I can get NOS swivel heads, let me know if you need them. 40 to 50 years old.

 

[GCncsuHD]

I can get NOS swivel heads, let me know if you need them. 40 to 50 years old.

If you are referring to the breaker bar swivel head, I should have a NOS one arriving in the mail today, but I appreciate your help.

 

[Parabellum]

If you are referring to the breaker bar swivel head, I should have a NOS one arriving in the mail today, but I appreciate your help.

Im aware of that, you got a warrantied one, but I was letting others know I can get original ones new in box about 40 to 50 years old.

 

[GCncsuHD]

Im aware of that, you got a warrantied one, but I was letting others know I can get original ones new in box about 40 to 50 years old.

I didn't get anything warrantied...

I wouldn't say the kit I'm getting is 40-50 years old, but I would say it predates the last several changing hands of the company.

 

[Wakefield]

Though I have actually never used a cheater pipe on this particular bar, my father and grandfather have I'm sure.

Besides, I wouldn't want to wind up with a replacement bar that they had already rebuilt, or a newer replacement, there is a bit of nostalgia in knowing my grandfather, who I never met, used this very same tool.

Possibly that bar if fully restored with a new drivepiece might be stronger than a new one,the new one doesn't seem to have as much mass in the taper where the head steps down to the handle.
I think the pin floats in both ears,that is on the sides but is pressed through the base of the drivepiece.
3/4" drive one (47155) appears to have a crosspin through the main pin to hold it.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

40 years ago when SK was SK, I tripped over an SK breaker with broken-off square like that in a junkyard. I had dirt income, 2 kids, and right around zero toy budget for me, so I hoped the repair part would be cheap and I'd wind up with a nice tool.
I took it to a local parts store that carried SK and the counter kid pulled a new drive off the rack and opened up the book. After 5 minutes of flipping pages he came up for air... "Its not in the price list! I can't find a price!" The bossman stuck his head out of the administrative closet and looked: "warranty part. Free." Slam. Done. Free SK breaker for me, exactly my budget!!
I was impressed. Nowadays, it's hard to say what SK is or who owns them...

 

[JWILL]

SK is in great shape today. All my hand tools are new SK in my box for work. Made in the US and very easy to warranty. As for who owns them its Ideal in Illinois.

 

[plinker]

I rebuilt a similar vintage 3/8 breaker bar and the pin they used (original) was tapered on both ends, I ended up drilling out one side and pin punched the rest out. YMMV.

 

[GCncsuHD]

Possibly that bar if fully restored with a new drivepiece might be stronger than a new one,the new one doesn't seem to have as much mass in the taper where the head steps down to the handle.
I think the pin floats in both ears,that is on the sides but is pressed through the base of the drivepiece.
3/4" drive one (47155) appears to have a crosspin through the main pin to hold it.

I rebuilt a similar vintage 3/8 breaker bar and the pin they used (original) was tapered on both ends, I ended up drilling out one side and pin punched the rest out. YMMV.

I examined it closer and tried to knock the pin out with a drift punch last night. Noticed that mine was slightly different, instead of the pin pressing inside the drive piece and floating in the ears, my drive piece floated on the pin which appeared to be a press fit in each ear. Hitting it with a drift punch and hammer a few times actually appeared to deform the pin rather than push it through, so I will try to get access to a press to press it out, if not I will try carefully drilling it out.

Also, going by this site:
http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/sherman-klove.html

It places my 41653 bar at a date older than 1957 due to the larger 9/16" cross bar hole and detent ball. Meaning this bar likely predates my dad's birth as well.

 

[n8n]

I totally get that you want to keep your grandfather's breaker bar... I have a S-K socket set that was my own grandfather's that I'm stupid attached to and I will actually use Craftsman sockets rather than actually use the S-K set... dumb I know. Also a set of RP Craftsman wrenches with his toolbox number engraved in them; I've managed to replace most of those wrenches so I will give those to my cousin.

I should probably start a thread and post pics as the set confuses me... the box is marked Sherman-Klove, but the sockets themselves are mostly marked S-K Wayne so I don't know if it's a true set or a bunch of stuff in a box.

I wish that there were an S-K dealer near me... I also have a metric set of combo wrenches (no sentimental attachment to those, got those from a friend who got them at a pawn shop) and really like them.

 

[Wakefield]

I examined it closer and tried to knock the pin out with a drift punch last night. Noticed that mine was slightly different, instead of the pin pressing inside the drive piece and floating in the ears, my drive piece floated on the pin which appeared to be a press fit in each ear. Hitting it with a drift punch and hammer a few times actually appeared to deform the pin rather than push it through, so I will try to get access to a press to press it out, if not I will try carefully drilling it out.

Also, going by this site:
http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/sherman-klove.html

It places my 41653 bar at a date older than 1957 due to the larger 9/16" cross bar hole and detent ball. Meaning this bar likely predates my dad's birth as well.

At one time there might have been a practice of mushrooming the end of the pin to keep it in place. If that is what they did then I would think it would have to be drilled out. Although perhaps a strong ram might just deform the mushroom enough to push it on through? Would doing that damage the bore in the ear? Expert advice Please!
I guess that by looking at the base of the drive 180* opposite where the square drive broke off and looking at the new replacement piece you could confirm that there isn't a crosspin. If so does anyone know if the proper way to get it out is to go ahead and press until the crosspin breaks? If so then I would expect the repair kit to have a new crosspin.
I guess it goes without saying that if drilling in the pin you don't want to touch the handle/ear hole bore edge.
The crosspin in my 3/4" used to rattle in its bore a little bit but I put some fingernail polish on it/its bore that goes into the back of the drivepiece radius 180* opposite the drivesquare.

Repair kit have the proper large 9/16" pin/hole in drivepiece?

 

[Wakefield]

I believe that some mechanics who worked in the 1960s considered the SK tools they had about as good as could be had even considering Snap On