You don't necessarily have to lift the vehicle up to do an oil change. Use the inside left front wheel as your "ground" leverage should the filter (the filter wrench that fits snugly is a MUST) or drain plug is on too tight. Trust me you can't get much torque from your back.
A 10mm hex bit socket for the transmission drain plug. If the fluids smell rancid or looks dark change it out with OEM fluids. A hand pump to change the power steering and brake fluids. If the water pump decides to fail, have a 10mm offset box end wrench handy (loosen the pulley bolts first before belt removal, nothing else will fit between the frame and the water pump). The belt tensioner can be relieved by using a breaker bar (not too long, 12"-15" or so) with a 19mm deep socket (look for the 3/4" hex sticking out around the tensioner pulley, you'll wreck the pulley bolt if you torque on that). If the radiator starts to leak you can pinch off the rad hoses (with a pair of needle nose visegrips) and run the cabin heat on full blast until you get a replacement (still, don't drive too long like that), that'll save you from running the engine dry.
10mm/3/8" wide coarse file and some brush to clean the brake brackets and the edges of the rotor. 1/2" impact, 17mm swivel impact socket, piston retracting tool (or a giant Channellock) and a file is all I need to do a front brake job. It's much easier to slide the whole assembly off the rotor, remove the pads and slide the bracket off the pins than to fiddle with the 14mm bolt. Service the brakes often, like at least twice a year, stops the pins from seizing up. Also make it a habit to use the parking brakes, the cables seize up if left unused for too long.
Take a good care of the Toyota negative battery terminal. They're a ***** to change out.
Above all else, make sure your daughter drives safe and knows how do deal with emergencies (like flat tires and busted radiators like mentioned earlier)